The Pyrex SS hybrid Wick

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k3vin

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Ok we are trying to make a light bulb on a steeeek... Forgive my humor I just got up..


But on a serious note... For some reason the guts of a lightbulb have my curiosity up when reading and talking about what we are trying to do..

So I am trying to get this seed out there to you guys.. There is tungsten in most bulb filaments, also, we throw 120v at a bulb to heat up the filament,but in vaping we only use low voltage/ low watts. So why not try to stuff a light bulb filament into one of our tubes.. Granted the filaments won't be in a vacuum, and hence the possibility of combustion of the filament but I am thinking at the low voltage we vape at, that the filament in say a 100 watt bulb would be able to handle it even in an oxygen atmosphere..

Anyway, just throwing this out there... I am about to go look for some nr wire around town, and buy a few bulbs to dissect and experiment on..




"I'm a man, I can change,if I have too,I guess"
Red Green
 

JPoodles

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Ok we are trying to make a light bulb on a steeeek... Forgive my humor I just got up..


But on a serious note... For some reason the guts of a lightbulb have my curiosity up when reading and talking about what we are trying to do..

So I am trying to get this seed out there to you guys.. There is tungsten in most bulb filaments, also, we throw 120v at a bulb to heat up the filament,but in vaping we only use low voltage/ low watts. So why not try to stuff a light bulb filament into one of our tubes.. Granted the filaments won't be in a vacuum, and hence the possibility of combustion of the filament but I am thinking at the low voltage we vape at, that the filament in say a 100 watt bulb would be able to handle it even in an oxygen atmosphere..

Anyway, just throwing this out there... I am about to go look for some nr wire around town, and buy a few bulbs to dissect and experiment on..




"I'm a man, I can change,if I have too,I guess"
Red Green

The resistance within tungsten is extremely low in comparison to Kanthal and Nichrome. The drain on the battery would be too immense. Or at least thats how I've understood it.
 

dsy5

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I've tried it on just the wick and just the coil and both left a bad bad taste. I wonder if doing an extensive juice curing would solve that. Instead of juice curing 3 times like some of us used to do to ready the wick. Why not juice cure like 10 or twenty times. Maybe that will solve the ickyness. I would try myself but have limited ssmesh left and no time to play (sent from work :mail:)

At work also; if I get time tonight, I will give this a try. I think I might also try just soaking in baking soda overnight - just a torching to the mesh, soak, roll and no heat/quench cycles.
 
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mre777

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going back to the idea of the enamel powder... How about grinding some pyrex into a powder and placing the coil into it while fireing it to creat a pyrex enamel on the coil??? Too much heat for the coil???

All enamel seems to be is a very fine powdered glass so it might just work. I dont have any spare pryrex to try this out though. I wasn't having much luck with the regular enamel I bought but I only have a little butane torch and no experience with the stuff.

I saw another possible adhesive in the store today QuikSteel-Plastic-Repair and what caught my eye was:
NSF-61 drinking water safe
500 degree Fahrenheit temperature resistant,
impervious to chemicals
and on the package it shows it has a very high electrical resistance value, something like 10x10 to the 15th
Now the 500 degree thing is suspect and we still dont have a definitive answer on the average coil temp we use
and i cant find a true msds on it
 

kwalka

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Hey all.
I've been following this thread, for the most part, until you went way over my head :facepalm:

Anyway here are some pics of my very first attempt. I ordered 2 7" pcs of pyrex, from Wilmad back in the beginning of the thread. I just cut a pc, it fit right over my Chobra exposed wick, wrapped a coil w 30ga that came out right at 1.7Ω. The thing was a steam machine until I tried to slide the wick up a hair with the glass hot. A pc broke off the top, so now I'm going to start over. BTW this is 3mm thin walled tubing. Also I am aware that I need to get FQ instead of pyrex.
DSC06107.jpg

DSC06115.jpg

DSC06116.jpg
 

LucidAce

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Hey all.
I've been following this thread, for the most part, until you went way over my head :facepalm:

Anyway here are some pics of my very first attempt. I ordered 2 7" pcs of pyrex, from Wilmad back in the beginning of the thread. I just cut a pc, it fit right over my Chobra exposed wick, wrapped a coil w 30ga that came out right at 1.7Ω. The thing was a steam machine until I tried to slide the wick up a hair with the glass hot. A pc broke off the top, so now I'm going to start over. BTW this is 3mm thin walled tubing. Also I am aware that I need to get FQ instead of pyrex.
DSC06107.jpg

DSC06115.jpg

DSC06116.jpg

Hey, kwalka! Thanks for sharing your early findings. Be sure to also check out this thread; maybe post this there as well: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/355145-new-dans-scubaqu-only.html
 

synthros

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bert1983

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Hey all.
I've been following this thread, for the most part, until you went way over my head :facepalm:

Anyway here are some pics of my very first attempt. I ordered 2 7" pcs of pyrex, from Wilmad back in the beginning of the thread. I just cut a pc, it fit right over my Chobra exposed wick, wrapped a coil w 30ga that came out right at 1.7Ω. The thing was a steam machine until I tried to slide the wick up a hair with the glass hot. A pc broke off the top, so now I'm going to start over. BTW this is 3mm thin walled tubing. Also I am aware that I need to get FQ instead of pyrex.
DSC06107.jpg

DSC06115.jpg

DSC06116.jpg

Can you post a close-up picture of the chip?
 

Big Screen D

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Made a pass through Micheal's today and picked up some micro clamps and crimping pliers.

So I have everything in house now to make some more inner coils. Everything but time. Lady of the house's birthday tomorrow, then Thursday night at the old folks home. TGIF can't come soon enough.

Day three vaping the mini tube and still chugging along.

Dug up some info on the type of tubes I'm using. Turns out they are thin walled for the express purpose of transferring heat efficiently to material being tested within in order to determine the melting point of the test material.

http://www.chem.umass.edu/~samal/269/mp.pdf
 

mre777

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Ok notes on the JB experiment:
I dry tested my small one caped at both ends was reading 2.2 ohms and i hooked it straight to a battery measuring 3.6v
Heat from coil is to much for regular JB weld. It started burning after a few long fires, proly 15-20 secs each
After i saw the smoke i knew that was not vapable so what did i do? I kept that sucker burning to see what would happen :) coil was going strong for a minute or so then Boom! The hot air expanded to much for the weakened JB weld and that thing popped like a little fire cracker right out the end sealed with the JB. Coil still works lol :) but people may want to be careful trying to seal both ends. The glass made it through the whole thing fine as did the coil but regular JB weld does not have enough high heat resistance, and i can't seem to find the high heat JB at a local store :(
 

Big Screen D

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"but people may want to be careful trying to seal both ends."

Good advice. Even both ends are fused closed, and it seems stable, I'd be concerned that if even a very small amount of juice found it's way to the coil without an adequate escape route, the steam would pop the tube at the most inopportune time.
 

DizGrizz

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"but people may want to be careful trying to seal both ends."

Good advice. Even both ends are fused closed, and it seems stable, I'd be concerned that if even a very small amount of juice found it's way to the coil without an adequate escape route, the steam would pop the tube at the most inopportune time.

This is why I'm really liking the SS needle idea...no glass involved. Don't know what a catastrophic failure of a needle heater would be like but I'm sure a catastrophic failure of a glass tube would not be a good thing to be sucking on. Me thinks we may have to just live with one end being open or, at least very slightly open.

Perhaps, if we crimped the bottom of the needle completely (capturing the wire for axial lead styles) and partially crimped the top of the needle then re-dipped in soda and, while flaming the soda, crimp it closed completely. The heat inside the tube should force most of the air out of the tube and leave at least a partial vacuum. That is, if sealing it did not cut through the soda coating and short out the coil.

EDIT: Man I'm on the ball...totally forgot to thank mre777 for the trial and the updates. Even a fail is something learned...and I bet it was entertaining when it popped!
 
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