The Pyrex SS hybrid Wick

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gdeal

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dsy5

It not the AGA per se, this is gonna come down to airflow optimization with any genny setup using ScubaQu. However with the AGA, I also found that placing the stock airhole directly in front of the coil, provided the best vape. But the "best" vape was just ok.

On a side note, I tried to use a curved tube through the drip tip, with the opening directed at the tip of the glass tube, but there is difference between pulling air in and creating a directed "jet". So no cigar on that variation....

On standard coil-on-ss wick we want the airflow directly on the vaporization surface, the coils and ss mesh. With ScubaQu, It seems that you would want the airflow directly on the tip of the glass tube. So its either drill a new hole, and/or bend a hypo-tube. Decisions..Decisions...
 

Lance_Wallen

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I think a custom built atty here is gonna make this idea really shine.

I'm thinking large hole, large diameter FQ tube, large wick inside with a significant air hole in the middle. This will give you the amount of wick you need to pull a good quantity of juice, thin walled FQ + a wick packed against the sides will give you a larger surface area to heat, the significant air hole int he middle of the wick will give the vapor an easier escape route and if you drop it to 28awg kanthal you can get a nice large coil for even more surface area.
 

TBinAZ

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My guess is Dan will come back in a few days with a fan-assisted atty that will produce more vapor than a normal human can consume in one hit. :2cool:

I think a custom built atty here is gonna make this idea really shine.

I'm thinking large hole, large diameter FQ tube, large wick inside with a significant air hole in the middle. This will give you the amount of wick you need to pull a good quantity of juice, thin walled FQ + a wick packed against the sides will give you a larger surface area to heat, the significant air hole int he middle of the wick will give the vapor an easier escape route and if you drop it to 28awg kanthal you can get a nice large coil for even more surface area.
 

Byten

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I just read all 57 pages of this thread in one sitting, let me get up a stretch real quick.. :)

Great idea Dan!

I have some concerns and some ideas here. As mentioned already, I do not think Pyrex is the way to go here. The heating and cooling in a atty is too extreme and sooner or later it will become weak enough to shatter from the stress. I can just imagine someone attempting to clean these tubes and ending up with tiny glass shards all over their kitchen. I have, in my own hands, seen 1/2 inch thick Pyrex containers come apart from simply being picked up at room temp, these containers are autoclaved repeated. The heating and cooling will result in making these very brittle and they will become unpredictable. A little scarier imagine running in my mind as I read this was the glass shattering inside a genesis top cap and not noticing. Mouth and lungs full of shards? Guess I'm saying I will not be using glass or Pyrex.

Quartz has me intrigued, but it's late and can not properly research it right now. I have been rolling ideas in my head for a few weeks on what material could be used to electrically insulate the SS mesh from a coil. Quartz may just be the answer but don't take me on faith with that as I have limited experience with it. I've been thinking over and over, "what's electrically non-conductive, very heat conductive, medically safe and can withstand thermal stress". So far, all I could come up with is phrama grade silicone tubing but it's not going to be very good at heat transfer. Quartz seems to fit the bill, assuming it can hold up the heating and cooling with becoming brittle. Anyone have any ideas on this?


Edit: Ok, did some a little googling and found this statement:
Synthetic Sapphira vs. Glass, Fused Quartz & Silica | Rayotek Scientific Inc.
"Surface devitrifies over time when temperature is cycled at high temperatures"
Which concerns me somewhat regarding fused quartz.
 
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gdeal

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Another variation here on ss mesh inside the glass tube. On my previous set up I used a solid #500 ss wick with an additional ss wrap around the wick in the tube to fill the extra space between the wick and the glass wall. This time I removed the additional wrap and inserted mini-wicks in the space. The thought here was to increase open surface area and create a channel for vapor to escape up through the glass tube tip. Something like this, but with a bigger center wick.

Disk_pack7.svg.png



I was only able to get four mini wicks into the open space about half way around the center wick, but the channels look to be open.

Here is a test fire:

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/8963/gokynpsomeortosxwcoibn.mp4

Its hard to see, but vape production appears to improve. I did notice on a couple of fires that there were individual jets of vapor coming from the channels. Unfortunately, Vape quality did not improve, it was about the same as the solid wick version. Same issue, Air-flow needs optimization.

I almost forgot to mention this. This is the same coil, same tube as the first set-up. Just like Dan showed earlier, it was a quick wick pull out and replace. Same ohms/same volts. The mesh change out took under a minute.
 

dsy5

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dsy5

It not the AGA per se, this is gonna come down to airflow optimization with any genny setup using ScubaQu. However with the AGA, I also found that placing the stock airhole directly in front of the coil, provided the best vape. But the "best" vape was just ok.

On a side note, I tried to use a curved tube through the drip tip, with the opening directed at the tip of the glass tube, but there is difference between pulling air in and creating a directed "jet". So no cigar on that variation....

On standard coil-on-ss wick we want the airflow directly on the vaporization surface, the coils and ss mesh. With ScubaQu, It seems that you would want the airflow directly on the tip of the glass tube. So its either drill a new hole, and/or bend a hypo-tube. Decisions..Decisions...

I agree that the airflow is the ScubaQu or whatever we are calling it, killer. I have even tried baffles made from thin aluminum to try to create a venturi effect, sort of an indirect air injection; trying to trap the air between the sides of the cap and the baffle. The flavor and throat hit improved, but again not much vapor. I think the cap would need a redesign to swirl the air, while maintaining a good amount of heat applied to the wick. Perhps, like turbine fins.
 

dsy5

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Another variation here on ss mesh inside the glass tube. On my previous set up I used a solid #500 ss wick with an additional ss wrap around the wick in the tube to fill the extra space between the wick and the glass wall. This time I removed the additional wrap and inserted mini-wicks in the space. The thought here was to increase open surface area and create a channel for vapor to escape up through the glass tube tip. Something like this, but with a bigger center wick.

I almost forgot to mention this. This is the same coil, same tube as the first set-up. Just like Dan showed earlier, it was a quick wick pull out and replace. Same ohms/same volts. The mesh change out took under a minute.

I see no problem with the vaporization - every video I see and even my own setup have lots of vapor without the cap on. Stick the cap on there and vape it - you wonder what happened to it.

I love the ease of wrapping, no oxidation necessary and the ease of replacement of the wick, but until something is done about the air, as Busardo would say, "It's a thumbs down", for me.
 

Katfeesh

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The only thing I see that might be the reson people are having problems is, that dans glass tube goes down inside of the wick hole ans in to the tank a little bit. The pics others have posted the glass is siting on top of the plate and not going into the wick hole maybe that's the difference Idk I could be wrong.
 

mre777

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Bottom feed air seems the was to go. The vivi i used does this and its working really nice for me right now, just finished a tank.. Not sure if im gona keep using it though with the questionable fuse glass ive got. i may wait till my FQ gets here. Its the slow startup that im not to fond of, need to optimize the heat transfer with thinner walls and ill proly try to flatten out the wire too.
 

dsy5

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Bottom feed air seems the was to go. The vivi i used does this and its working really nice for me right now, just finished a tank.. Not sure if im gona keep using it though with the questionable fuse glass ive got. i may wait till my FQ gets here. Its the slow startup that im not to fond of, need to optimize the heat transfer with thinner walls and ill proly try to flatten out the wire too.

I may need to try it in one of my Vivi's - although I'm a little hesitant. With the polypropylene tank, I'm wondering how it will handle that extra heat. How is yours holding up?
 

Damian Duncan

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Suggestion.

Try re-drilling the Air hole to enter the Wick hole halfway between the Juice chamber and the top platform that the glass tubing sits upon.
Mark out where the wick aligns and drill with the top cap on into the Threads.
This will supply air below the heating coil and allow better vapor production with continuous inline flow whilst inhaling.
 
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