The Pyrex SS hybrid Wick

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gdeal

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what do you mean it can't handle higher watts whats it doing? Setup looks really good!

Should have been more specific, I running on only about 4 hour of sleep last night.... The 3mm set up can "handle" higher watts. But the vape felt/tasted like it was starting to burn around 11 watts. It could be the concentration of heat in a smaller wick mass causing the effect or it could be the wicking of the wick. I was comparing this the 5mm tube version, which had no issues at 14.5 watts. I used the same wick here but removed the top barbell which gave the wick more diameter/mass to fill the 5 mm tube. You can see it in the lying next to the coiled glass only picture in the post above.
 

Shekinahsgroom

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Cool somthing new to play with.
So far I have gone through 5 tanks of juice on my DUD and she is working great. I have not gotten the volume of vapor that a low ohm coil can produce but at 2.8 ohms and 11.5 watts I am pretty pleased with it.
Dan

Sooooo, when's the Co-Op movie comin' out?

"Life of Dan-Py"? :D

(Sorry, didn't wanna read 29 pages of jabber.)
 

JPoodles

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I did some looking around and research on enamel powder, seems it is an enamel colored glass that can withstand temps of 450c. Hmmmm I wonder if the coil were tighter if the enamel would bridge between the coils, and I have found curing temps need to be in the 550c range since it is fused glass capable of withstanding 450c temps and from what I have found non toxic once fired. I might have to take the plunge and get some quality enamel powder to test. Definatly would do about 3-4 coats or dips in the powder and electrically heat the coil to set the enamel.
Cool somthing new to play with.
So far I have gone through 5 tanks of juice on my DUD and she is working great. I have not gotten the volume of vapor that a low ohm coil can produce but at 2.8 ohms and 11.5 watts I am pretty pleased with it.
Dan

I would think that for our purpose a quartz powder would be best. I have no enameling experience though so that may just be too simple. I've read about technique that bridges wiring so it can be done, just not certain its possible with torch.
 

MadmanMacguyver

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I still like the idea of ir laser diodes to replace the coil.

6. To 9 diodes mounted to round heat sync focused on a central glass encapsulated wick.

The Jedi vape....

Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using Tapatalk 2

can't stand it any longer...over stressed and all.... I looked at the beginning of this thread and was hooked...can't even finish w/o answering bstedh...OK dude...Light vaper oops sabre...just use Blue ray diodes or better...I think enough of us have seen baloons being popped by them...I am quite sure our devices produce enough power...if not...I have the circuit that will...lol...muahahaha...and w that until I 1)get new glasses so I can begin modding again 2)finish reading this thread 3)have more than half a mind... I'm going to shut my trap.....

OK done...wow you guys have been busy...I have a few REAL comments now...as to coating the kanthal wire w ceramic...maybe Dan has the exp I lack here...doesn't kanthal expand and contract and wouldn't ANY coating on the wire react badly to internal stresses caused by said differences in expansion rates...

also...as to the issues w slow heatup times...I have a solution but it requires a serious mod w a program on a microcontroller to run the regulator...solution initial warmup is slow so hit it w a higher voltage at first which tapers down after a sec or 2...of course the device would also have to be capable of knowing you were chain vaping or not so as to no repeat that process once the initial heating occurred...would be an awfully complex device but hey its in search of the perfect vape yea...

and Bstedh...we REALLY need to talk about that laser Idea...
 
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also...as to the issues w slow heatup times...I have a solution but it requires a serious mod w a program on a microcontroller to run the regulator...solution initial warmup is slow so hit it w a higher voltage at first which tapers down after a sec or 2...of course the device would also have to be capable of knowing you were chain vaping or not so as to no repeat that process once the initial heating occurred...would be an awfully complex device but hey its in search of the perfect vape yea...

Temperature sensor - seems that many of the battery powered 'other kind' of personal vaporiser have more than one temp. sensor in them - small thermocouple is all that would take, and if one can programme the chip as you've stated, then they cold programme it for temp. control also.

DV
 

slopes

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I did some looking around and research on enamel powder, seems it is an enamel colored glass that can withstand temps of 450c. Hmmmm I wonder if the coil were tighter if the enamel would bridge between the coils, and I have found curing temps need to be in the 550c range since it is fused glass capable of withstanding 450c temps and from what I have found non toxic once fired. I might have to take the plunge and get some quality enamel powder to test. Definatly would do about 3-4 coats or dips in the powder and electrically heat the coil to set the enamel.
Cool somthing new to play with.
So far I have gone through 5 tanks of juice on my DUD and she is working great. I have not gotten the volume of vapor that a low ohm coil can produce but at 2.8 ohms and 11.5 watts I am pretty pleased with it.
Dan

Dan - borosilicate (pyrex) powdered glass is available, but I guess the heat required to fuse it will be much higher.
Black Elvis Borosilicate Powder - glass blowing supplies, lampworking, beadmaking, glass rods and tubing

I used unleaded enamel powder. I couldn't find any colourless stuff, but I figured it would be better to have coloured for testing as it would be more visible.
 

dsy5

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Temperature sensor - seems that many of the battery powered 'other kind' of personal vaporiser have more than one temp. sensor in them - small thermocouple is all that would take, and if one can programme the chip as you've stated, then they cold programme it for temp. control also.

DV

Yes, something to apply more watts in the beginning, then tapering down as stated by MadmanMacGuyver. Temp sensor might be tough as it would need to be in the atty to get an accurate read. Meaning a couple more connections to go through the battery connector. Probably the only good solution would seem to be a custom Hybrid.
 
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dsy5

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dsy5

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I think that's backward....water is like 5

Water is really not that good of a conductor... see the link that I edited in - it shows conductivity and resistance.

Note that the numbers are per meter, you need to multiply by 100 to get S/cm.

And what is the units in the 5 of water pararmeter, per cm, per foot? - need to be common units to compare properly.
 
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bapgood

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dsy5

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So sea water is 500 S/cm to compare units, much less conductive than any metal.Sea water has salt, making it more conductive than regular drinking water. But look at the conductance of regular water; its rated at milliSiemens/meter; that's .5S/cm, much less conductivity.

I know you want to believe this stuff is not conductive, but it is.
 
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bapgood

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So sea water is .05 S/cm to compare units, much less conductive than any metal.Sea water has salt, making it more conductive than regular drinking water. But look at the conductance of regular water; its rated at milliSiemens/meter; that's .00005/cm, much less conductivity.

I know you want to believe this stuff is not conductive, but it is.

No I believe it's conductive.....I'm just confused on the Siemens but I think I'm getting my head around it
 

dsy5

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No I believe it's conductive.....I'm just confused on the Siemens but I think I'm getting my head around it

It is really easy - take the Siemens number and invert it (1 / S = Ω); just make sue what you are comparing is in the same units of distance and convert as necessary.
 
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Cool_Breeze

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I think the definitions of resistivity and conductivity need to be examined. A scan of Wikipedia on the matter seems to be indicating that the measurements are based on a measure of a solid volume of the material. ...per meter seems to mean a cubic meter of material and likewise a cubic centimeter for per cm. The 'face' of a cubic meter has 10,000 times the area of a centimeter and 100 times the depth.

I haven't examined the definitions in depth, so correct me if I am mistaken.
 

MadmanMacguyver

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well ANYTHING comprised mostly of carbon will be pretty conductive to some degree...even diamonds...I really did like the three chambered design someone came up w in which the coil was inside an enclosed chamber as to how feasible that is there may be pressure issues...although...w some tweaks and a really good external insulator that could possibly make a very thin albeit long profile atty
 

bstedh

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can't stand it any longer...over stressed and all.... I looked at the beginning of this thread and was hooked...can't even finish w/o answering bstedh...OK dude...Light vaper oops sabre...just use Blue ray diodes or better...I think enough of us have seen baloons being popped by them...I am quite sure our devices produce enough power...if not...I have the circuit that will...lol...muahahaha...and w that until I 1)get new glasses so I can begin modding again 2)finish reading this thread 3)have more than half a mind... I'm going to shut my trap.....

OK done...wow you guys have been busy...I have a few REAL comments now...as to coating the kanthal wire w ceramic...maybe Dan has the exp I lack here...doesn't kanthal expand and contract and wouldn't ANY coating on the wire react badly to internal stresses caused by said differences in expansion rates...

also...as to the issues w slow heatup times...I have a solution but it requires a serious mod w a program on a microcontroller to run the regulator...solution initial warmup is slow so hit it w a higher voltage at first which tapers down after a sec or 2...of course the device would also have to be capable of knowing you were chain vaping or not so as to no repeat that process once the initial heating occurred...would be an awfully complex device but hey its in search of the perfect vape yea...

and Bstedh...we REALLY need to talk about that laser Idea...

The big issue $ I see it is making a good heat sync small enough to keep the lasers from frying themselves. I have not played with these diodes so don't know their thermal capacity.

Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using Tapatalk 2
 

bapgood

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i just got a call from technicalglass.com and they said there is a $50 minimum so they cancelled my order
no quartz tubing for me :(

Ok all I was waiting to see how the transaction went....and it went smooth....so here are the details

Fused Quartz Tubes and Labware: Quartz Scientific, Inc.

I ordered 4' of 2x3 FQ from QSI on Monday. The 4' length was $3.60 and the total with shipping was $18.49. It is shipping from Fairport Harbor, OH and is scheduled to be to Utah by Friday. I told them they could cut it up for shipping and the invoice says they cut it into 12" pieces.
 
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