That is why you leave a hole in the end so you can add the coil after the fact. You will still have the top open but you remove any air flow.
The Pyrex SS hybrid Wick
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Soldering iron won't be enough, but a chefs torch might work. Are you using the 2.5mm that comes packaged in the plastic tube? The glass is thin enough to reshape but don't use cold metal to crimp it or it will shatter. Heat and spin, let gravity do most of the work, cool slowly. I used to work w/glass but had an acetylene torch.
I have a butane torch. I was surprised how quickly it softened. I played with closing the ends as you say by twirling and letting gravity shape it. Made some kind of neat shapes but the heat of the softened glass was too much for the Silver NR wire to withstand 
I tried to find one of Dan's posts where he mentioned some kind of sealant goo (silicone or epoxy?) that was safe and heat resistant. I may also look for some Nickel NR wire (melting point 1453°C) that would work great with closing the glass.
I tried to find one of Dan's posts where he mentioned some kind of sealant goo (silicone or epoxy?) that was safe and heat resistant. I may also look for some Nickel NR wire (melting point 1453°C) that would work great with closing the glass.Gorilla epoxy claims to be nontoxic when cured, and I believe I remember someone mentioning it around here, I don't know that I'd trust it around the heat generated by the coil though, definitely research. Would superfine glass beads threaded on the wire work? I remember a post where folks used them for hot legs leading to coils.
Thx! That's a great idea for at least testing to keep juice condensation from going down the top. I'll swing by Home Depot tomorrow and look for the Gorilla epoxy for the bottom and the craft store for beads. I also ordered the Nickel NR wire to try as well.
Right on, interested to see how it turns out. I think I'm going to order some 4mm tube from willmad and see if I can make a sleeve over the coil wrapped around the 2.5 mm tube with wick inside.
Cloud, that looks pretty cool, you are halfway to a lightbulb.
Rather than use Gorilla epoxy, you could plug the bottom using a drop of silver solder. Heat up a ball of solder on a workspace, warm the glass tube below it's melting point and squish the tube onto the ball of solder. The solder should stick to your NR wire which will anchor the 'end cap' in place and in the end it should look like a capillary tube with one drop of water in it. You don't want any on the outer diameter, just the inside and bottom. This should help with the negative connection too.
Rather than use Gorilla epoxy, you could plug the bottom using a drop of silver solder. Heat up a ball of solder on a workspace, warm the glass tube below it's melting point and squish the tube onto the ball of solder. The solder should stick to your NR wire which will anchor the 'end cap' in place and in the end it should look like a capillary tube with one drop of water in it. You don't want any on the outer diameter, just the inside and bottom. This should help with the negative connection too.
Get some silver solder, I think radio Shack may carry it, but any good plumbing store should have it. I have some that I use to solder NR to NiChrome, I got it quite a while ago, but think I got it at Home Depot.
The end caps from a fuse may work, too - I don't think you would necessarily have to make it airtight.
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Or what about a really tight plug of ss mesh at the bottom, like 3mm tall and a small enough hole in the middle for the NR wire. If anything it will help you get the silver solder to stay i the right place.
I think we need a new thread that just concentrates on the Dan's design so those of us that are trying it can post results and not have to read hundreds of pages. Nothing against experimenting but for those who have been here for years, much is repetitive. Cloud Wizard you are doing something that has been tried and a couple of wraps of mesh around the center tube will just not be enough wick to supply the juice needed. To get the wicking necessary you would end up with a very thick wick and the thermal effect will boil the juice out the side of the mesh, very inefficient and messy. Encapsulating in another tube just adds diameter to the wick and more heat sink loss. Up to now the most efficient way for our use is heat from the outside into the mesh concentrated to push the vaper out of the mesh with the least amount of wasted raw juice being pumped out.
Not much you can't find here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/132663-all-my-mods-part1.html#post7912276
Not much you can't find here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/132663-all-my-mods-part1.html#post7912276
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I agree that any added sleeve will absorb energy from the coil, but this is energy that would otherwise be released at a higher rate into the vapor chamber by free airflow. Just trying to think of a source able solution w/o intensive modification.
A lot of this thread has been speculation and definitely made for a difficult read, but now that materials are being delivered we can start to see variations and possibly improvements on the original concept
A lot of this thread has been speculation and definitely made for a difficult read, but now that materials are being delivered we can start to see variations and possibly improvements on the original concept
So is it still ok to post ideas here......like my 3 chamber concept
Ok this concept is large and clunky and based on tools and material I have...if it works it can be refined later
I have:
min lathe
two 1" poly tanks
aluminum round stock
misc ss/other tube
old carts for the battery connector
glass tube (on effing Monday for some reason my delivery date went from Friday to Monday)
Need some ceramic/other insulating material
Since my glass tube won't be here until Monday I have all weekend to get this built....So let the constructive criticism rip
View attachment 3C-Assy-3.pdf
*Edit*
For air I plan on doing something in the top plate.
The vapor chamber probably doesn't need to be that big but that is the size if the tank, so I'll start there and mod from there.
Ok this concept is large and clunky and based on tools and material I have...if it works it can be refined later
I have:
min lathe
two 1" poly tanks
aluminum round stock
misc ss/other tube
old carts for the battery connector
glass tube (on effing Monday
for some reason my delivery date went from Friday to Monday)Need some ceramic/other insulating material
Since my glass tube won't be here until Monday I have all weekend to get this built....So let the constructive criticism rip
View attachment 3C-Assy-3.pdf
*Edit*
For air I plan on doing something in the top plate.
The vapor chamber probably doesn't need to be that big but that is the size if the tank, so I'll start there and mod from there.
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Hey modders! Just finished sett ing up the Scuba-Q ceramic version on a mini DUD. Its 32g 3/4 wrap/2.5 ohm kanthal A1 coil around a 4mm long section of 3mm od/2mm id nonporous ceramic "sleeve" with a tight fitting solid 500 ss mesh. The "sleeve" is located 2mm above the wick hole with 2mm of wick out the top for a total of 8mm from floor to top. Airhole is located 90 degrees to wick. Im vaping a 50pg/50vg sweet peach @ 3.9 volts for lil over 6 watts. Vapor production is hapening all over the wick exposed. Liquid is bubbling on the edges of sleeve but not bubbling over. Taste is thicker, richer, and not as dry to me. Vapor production does continue 2 sec after releasing button but initial warmup is only 4 sec longer than norm at most(less with more volts). This is due to residual heat in the sleeve I believe. I don't notice a change in TH. I will try different wick setups but gonna stick with this for now to observe condensation or builup on coil. I'm happy to anounce great results with the ceramic sleeve and a side note is that the ceramic has a bit of tooth which helps in wrapping the coil tight. BTW this is my 100th post. Why has it taken me so long to find this hobby?
Man this tastes Great!
P.S. Thank You Raidy for all your free source inspiration to the community. Hopefully we make you proud.
Man this tastes Great!P.S. Thank You Raidy for all your free source inspiration to the community. Hopefully we make you proud.
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Bap,
Looks cool, if you have the "TBD sleeve" would the 3rd chamber be necessary? With the goal being isolation of the coil from vapor chamber, I think that could be achieved with a simple sleeve. If I had a lathe I'd definitley give it a shot though.
Jp,
I might have missed it in an earlier post, but where are you sourcing the ceramic sleeve?
Looks cool, if you have the "TBD sleeve" would the 3rd chamber be necessary? With the goal being isolation of the coil from vapor chamber, I think that could be achieved with a simple sleeve. If I had a lathe I'd definitley give it a shot though.
Jp,
I might have missed it in an earlier post, but where are you sourcing the ceramic sleeve?
Well everything is kind of mix and match-able. So the mid "atty chamber" could be removed and the top camber just moved down, however if I did that I would probably swap out the poly with aluminum on the top chamber....but it would depend on the heat. The poly is kinda nice to seeing whats going on.
Cool concept, until you source the drain valve could a ±1mm hole and a small recess be relatively effective? The capillary action of the mesh would create a vacuum in the juice chamber and draw in the accumulated juice. Interested to see the results
99% Alumina Ceramic Round Tube, 0.063" ID, 1/8" OD, 12" Length: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
The od is actually 3.175 mm and id is 1.6 mm- my bad- just eyed it with a ruler. ALSO I forgot to mention earlier-Thanks Dan! Great Idea and I love your work. Still waiting to see how the auto-draw motor and fan turned out.
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