The Pyrex SS hybrid Wick
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Amazing stuff every1! I normally click "like" to mark whats been read, but I had to abandon that here lol. I like it all!
Big Screen D that rig is very out of sight. I have a mod called the "Spin E" that uses a pin coil & the instant heat up of tiny coils is amazing [& thus also more cig like.] They are also much stronger (less fragile) @ that size!. Using the tiny coil inside the tube heating the mesh outside seems like an excellent path & beacon showing a wise nut.
Thanks for sharing the videos
I suggest in my following video (originally directed @ mesh in tubers) the following items that may possibly be usable to combat geyser & volcanic eruptions. I am not sure if Dans det up or any of the many cool other versions can get a "spark of something" from these links: [I hope they help]
sintered glass thimble
quartz extraction thimble
fritted glass filter
I could not find a tube with quartz frit all through the core of the tube. This was as close as I got to one. I think it's an insert & a cap only is likely what most are seeking anyway.
I got that image from this source page On that page they mention a "Custom options include SilcoTek® coatings" on a Stainless tube. I know nothing about them or if any of this stuff would be suitable, just attempting to add some ideas.
My only other post in this thread is a somewhat scientific
& somewhat funny video 
.
Here's another!
I hope you enjoy this Sunday matinee:
Best viewed full screen HD it may take time to load. There is some wordage, but 1.5 gigabytes
of video footage
Big Screen D that rig is very out of sight. I have a mod called the "Spin E" that uses a pin coil & the instant heat up of tiny coils is amazing [& thus also more cig like.] They are also much stronger (less fragile) @ that size!. Using the tiny coil inside the tube heating the mesh outside seems like an excellent path & beacon showing a wise nut.
Thanks for sharing the videos I suggest in my following video (originally directed @ mesh in tubers) the following items that may possibly be usable to combat geyser & volcanic eruptions. I am not sure if Dans det up or any of the many cool other versions can get a "spark of something" from these links: [I hope they help
]sintered glass thimble
quartz extraction thimble
fritted glass filter
I could not find a tube with quartz frit all through the core of the tube. This was as close as I got to one. I think it's an insert & a cap only is likely what most are seeking anyway.
I got that image from this source page On that page they mention a "Custom options include SilcoTek® coatings" on a Stainless tube. I know nothing about them or if any of this stuff would be suitable, just attempting to add some ideas.
My only other post in this thread is a somewhat scientific
& somewhat funny video . Here's another!
I hope
you enjoy this Sunday matinee: Best viewed full screen HD it may take time to load. There is some wordage, but 1.5 gigabytes
of video footage
Wow, bapgood, you do nice work! Looks like you'll have a working proto in no time. About the one-way valve...the simplest one I know of is just a flap of rubber/silicone/etc over a hole. The flap will seal against the hole in one flow direction and move out of the way the other direction. I have some ideas on a system that might make wicking issues a complete thing of the past and it looks like you have the tools and wicked skills to do a proto on it (maybe even incorporate into this design). I'll see if I can get a decent drawing together.
As for an inner coil tube like Big Screen D and Cloud Wizard on working on; what about having the coil NR ends both come out of the top? I did a quick and dirty little proof-of-concept wrap of 30 AWG Kenthal on a needle by starting with one end of the wire through the needle and then wrapped the other end around the needle so that both ends end up on the same side. Run a super tiny FQ/pyrex tube down the middle (to essentially replace the needle I used to form it) EDIT: and encase in another FQ/Pyrex tube and you have a one-sided heater "bead". Obviously, you would want to tack on NR wire...like I said, it's just a quick and dirty POC. Sealing the end would be critical of course...but you are all thinking on that (me too). I know you can crimp glass tubes but the crimping device has to be about as hot as the glass.
EDIT: Maybe doing the "dip in enamel" thang with this sort of coil might work as well. Since it would be encased in an outer tube (deff would want FQ or Pyrex for that), any minor splintering/flaking of the enamel would be of no consequence.
Nice work, everyone! There are some great minds at work on this here!!!
As for an inner coil tube like Big Screen D and Cloud Wizard on working on; what about having the coil NR ends both come out of the top? I did a quick and dirty little proof-of-concept wrap of 30 AWG Kenthal on a needle by starting with one end of the wire through the needle and then wrapped the other end around the needle so that both ends end up on the same side. Run a super tiny FQ/pyrex tube down the middle (to essentially replace the needle I used to form it) EDIT: and encase in another FQ/Pyrex tube and you have a one-sided heater "bead". Obviously, you would want to tack on NR wire...like I said, it's just a quick and dirty POC. Sealing the end would be critical of course...but you are all thinking on that (me too). I know you can crimp glass tubes but the crimping device has to be about as hot as the glass.
EDIT: Maybe doing the "dip in enamel" thang with this sort of coil might work as well. Since it would be encased in an outer tube (deff would want FQ or Pyrex for that), any minor splintering/flaking of the enamel would be of no consequence.
Nice work, everyone! There are some great minds at work on this here!!!
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Haha! Love the vapor rings!!
Think the biggest problem in the second setup (Mister E Rings o' Vapor Percolator...or MERVP) is the thermal mass of the center post...and the fact that your heating it down to the tank, of course
Think the biggest problem in the second setup (Mister E Rings o' Vapor Percolator...or MERVP) is the thermal mass of the center post...and the fact that your heating it down to the tank, of course
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MISTer E - Have you tried the "View First Unread" hyperlink at the top of each thread page? It's on the line just above the top post. That might accomplish what you are attempting by marking the posts...then again, it may not.
Very cool coil design. I may tinker with it a bit, easy to melt the bottom of the tube shut.
I have stopped on the 3 chamber design for the moment.....so I would like to hear your idea
Currently at this point
I stopped because I have been testing the pyrex and ceramic cup and with and without the ceramic cup vapor is going both up and down out of the pyrex tube. Plus I have been having wicking problems with my 400 mesh (ordered some 635). Since I'm not wicking consistently I have had a lot if dry burns and the ceramic cup gets hotter than hot, plus I'm not sure if its helping much. Without a good base line I can't really say one way or the other on ceramic cup.
The three chamber design is kind of pointless if all the vapor isn't coming out the top.
OK, don't have any CAD software and my hand drawings were just horrid...so I'll have to kinda piece this together with some web-pics.
Those who have one of those carto tanks with the filler screw on the side of the tank are probably aware that, if you unscrew the filler screw and take some puffs, you can flood the carto in no time. This is because some of the vacuum that you create when sucking on the carto is being relieved through the holes in the carto, sucking in juice from the tank. Since the tank is no longer sealed to outside air, the amount of juice pulled in is waaay higher than when the tank is air tight. This same principle could be applied to a tubed wick (of any material...including none).
If we look back at Dan's original original design where the glass tube went all the way down to very near the bottom of the tank (shown well in video in post #31), you can easily imagine that a hole in the tank to the outside air would again cause some of the vacuum of sucking on the device to pull juice up the tube...thus supplying maximum juice delivery right when it is needed.
There are two issues with this concept: 1) a hole in the tank section would want to leak. 2) the amount of vacuum redirected to the tank would need to be adjustable to work best with different wicking materials and juice viscosity.
I believe that the first issue could be resolved with a variation on the simple silicone flap one-way valve (I have several ideas brewing). The second would be best handled by making the tank hole size adjustable. My ultimate design would use an adjustment screw that worked just like an air adjustment on a carburetor like the one shown here for the idle adjustment screw (just to the left of the words "MAIN METERING JET":
Here's what an adjustment screw looks like by itself:
Something like this could be engineered into the atomizer in your design, bapgood. An adjustable air intake for the vapor chamber would also be good so you could balance air intake and juice wicking vacuum for diff juices & wicks but may not be necessary.
Sorry for the off-subject post...if we go any further with this, we should prob start a new thread.
Those who have one of those carto tanks with the filler screw on the side of the tank are probably aware that, if you unscrew the filler screw and take some puffs, you can flood the carto in no time. This is because some of the vacuum that you create when sucking on the carto is being relieved through the holes in the carto, sucking in juice from the tank. Since the tank is no longer sealed to outside air, the amount of juice pulled in is waaay higher than when the tank is air tight. This same principle could be applied to a tubed wick (of any material...including none).
If we look back at Dan's original original design where the glass tube went all the way down to very near the bottom of the tank (shown well in video in post #31), you can easily imagine that a hole in the tank to the outside air would again cause some of the vacuum of sucking on the device to pull juice up the tube...thus supplying maximum juice delivery right when it is needed.
There are two issues with this concept: 1) a hole in the tank section would want to leak. 2) the amount of vacuum redirected to the tank would need to be adjustable to work best with different wicking materials and juice viscosity.
I believe that the first issue could be resolved with a variation on the simple silicone flap one-way valve (I have several ideas brewing). The second would be best handled by making the tank hole size adjustable. My ultimate design would use an adjustment screw that worked just like an air adjustment on a carburetor like the one shown here for the idle adjustment screw (just to the left of the words "MAIN METERING JET":
Here's what an adjustment screw looks like by itself:
Something like this could be engineered into the atomizer in your design, bapgood. An adjustable air intake for the vapor chamber would also be good so you could balance air intake and juice wicking vacuum for diff juices & wicks but may not be necessary.
Sorry for the off-subject post...if we go any further with this, we should prob start a new thread.
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Even with the glass tube butted up against the atomizer plate it's still coming out at the bottom? Is that with the tank portion on and sealed?
Maybe increasing the length of the glass tube at the bottom (into the tank some) would increase the resistance to "backwards" flow enough to solve the problem. Seems like Dan's modified design (shorter tube but still in tank) did not show any sign of vaping into the tank.
No....My testing has been done out in the open....but my worry is that even if it was put together like my concept that vapor would either be restricted by not going down or go down into the tank. In the other thread BJ43 shows the same thing and how vapor coming out the bottom is coming back up around his coil and is collecting gunk on his coil.
a couple really simple one way valve designs (some as small as 2mm):
http://www.minivalve.com/newsite/index.php/en/by-type/minivalveballs/components
http://www.minivalve.com/newsite/index.php/en/by-type/duckbill-valves/components
http://www.minivalve.com/newsite/index.php/en/by-type/minivalveballs/components
http://www.minivalve.com/newsite/index.php/en/by-type/duckbill-valves/components
Nice...I was just going to try to scrounge up a SS ball and build something to try....but I wonder if juice will just get something sticky and not work reliably???
I think the surface tension with ejuice will be the biggest issue with a valve.
Folks I am sitting here vaping on a rebuilt inner coil reverse Scuba and it freaking works beautifully.
Closed off, the tube ends. Not quite airtight since the glass seems to not want to quite make a seal against the wire, but close.
NR wire out the bottom, and twisted positive end. Is difficult to tie in NR at the top end since there is less length to work with.
Taste is outstanding!
I promise to post some more pics soon, but dinner is on the table.
Here is the coil before closing off the ends. 20 wraps of 30g Nichrome. 1.5ohm.
Closed off, the tube ends. Not quite airtight since the glass seems to not want to quite make a seal against the wire, but close.
NR wire out the bottom, and twisted positive end. Is difficult to tie in NR at the top end since there is less length to work with.
Taste is outstanding!
I promise to post some more pics soon, but dinner is on the table.
Here is the coil before closing off the ends. 20 wraps of 30g Nichrome. 1.5ohm.
Wow, bapgood, you do nice work! Looks like you'll have a working proto in no time. About the one-way valve...the simplest one I know of is just a flap of rubber/silicone/etc over a hole. The flap will seal against the hole in one flow direction and move out of the way the other direction. I have some ideas on a system that might make wicking issues a complete thing of the past and it looks like you have the tools and wicked skills to do a proto on it (maybe even incorporate into this design). I'll see if I can get a decent drawing together.
As for an inner coil tube like Big Screen D and Cloud Wizard on working on; what about having the coil NR ends both come out of the top? I did a quick and dirty little proof-of-concept wrap of 30 AWG Kenthal on a needle by starting with one end of the wire through the needle and then wrapped the other end around the needle so that both ends end up on the same side. Run a super tiny FQ/pyrex tube down the middle (to essentially replace the needle I used to form it) EDIT: and encase in another FQ/Pyrex tube and you have a one-sided heater "bead". Obviously, you would want to tack on NR wire...like I said, it's just a quick and dirty POC. Sealing the end would be critical of course...but you are all thinking on that (me too). I know you can crimp glass tubes but the crimping device has to be about as hot as the glass.
View attachment 156538
EDIT: Maybe doing the "dip in enamel" thang with this sort of coil might work as well. Since it would be encased in an outer tube (deff would want FQ or Pyrex for that), any minor splintering/flaking of the enamel would be of no consequence.
Nice work, everyone! There are some great minds at work on this here!!!
I was thinking of trying something very similar to this for testing coil in tube designs and its a good concept for adapting it to the current style did atomizers. Make them small and sealed with NR leads kinda like the little Christmas lights that's been pulled out of the socket with the ends exposed. Then just wrap some mesh around it and stuff down the hole. I like how you used a needle tip to do the center nice and free floating, I will definitely be trying that.
Looking for a suggestion for what to use to seal the top end off this tube rather than melting the glass.
Folks I am sitting here vaping on a rebuilt inner coil reverse Scuba and it freaking works beautifully.
Closed off, the tube ends. Not quite airtight since the glass seems to not want to quite make a seal against the wire, but close.
NR wire out the bottom, and twisted positive end. Is difficult to tie in NR at the top end since there is less length to work with.
Taste is outstanding!
I promise to post some more pics soon, but dinner is on the table.
Here is the coil before closing off the ends. 20 wraps of 30g Nichrome. 1.5ohm.
Big Screen looking good man! I had a thought for you and joining the NR wire to the Nichrome without all the twisting, have you ever used crimp beads before? Something like these and you can get them in silver and in pretty small sizes at a Michell's or your local craft store. I use them a lot on my Penelope.
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