Thanks. That's a good tip. The couple times I tried making duals with a CoilMaster, it didn't go well. I've had to hand wrap them.
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Thanks. That's a good tip. The couple times I tried making duals with a CoilMaster, it didn't go well. I've had to hand wrap them.
I messed up my first try, backed the nub out a little bit, and made sure to not apply any pressure when spinning. Came out perfect
Your really gonna flip out when you here this... I have never gotten the dreaded black spot on my contacts since I've had them. Not sure what is different between the CC and my Reo's, but I've never had to clean them, never had to put De-Ox-It on them, nothing... I installed them and occasionally I will wipe off the contacts with a paper towel when I am wiping out the inside of the device after doing a dirty job every now and then. That is it. At first I decided to not put anything on them just to see how long it took the get the black dot, but it never happened and the +pin looks the same as the day I installed them...Muzichead does it right with those solid silver contacts of his. They can be sanded when needed and kept pristine in addition to how hard they hit in general. I'm tempted to see if Corey could do that for the P67. But then he'd know I sold my CCs, and I don't want to hurt his feelings
Best thing I ever did was put those contacts in my devices. Now I'm thinking of having him make a couple larger diameter buttons and drilling out the hole to have a more substantial button. I've tried the button covers, but it is too hard to clean around the button from the top when they are installed. Besides, to install them I have to take the insert out to hold the button in place because I removed the locking pins almost 2yrs ago...
On a side note, He is aware you don't have your CC's anymore... Around the time you were getting rid of yours, there were quite a few in the classies. You weren't the only one to thin out the vape collection!!!
Fascinating. That's just awesome. And you're probably right, he's aware - and, he probably understands. I still post over there some, and we're on quite good terms. Its certainly not like him to begrudge somebody over something like that. He's a very cool guy.
Curious ... Corey sent me enough to replace all the ones in my Reo. I replaced one, and I couldn't get it to bend enough to make contact, when pushing the button.
Maybe I didn't trim the opening back far enough to give it the room it needed.
How far back did you enlarge the hole ... picture maybe
I blamed my arthritic hands, as it's a much more sturdy piece than comes with the Reo's, but maybe I was also just plain scared to make the opening big enough
For now, they just sit in the drawer.
Sloth, I use one of these white eraser pencils to clean the contact point .. works great, no need to sand.
Easy to reach inside with, on any mod .... yeah, I still use some ProV's
Thing is ... it cleans with a few swipes.
I recommend this little thing of DeOxit.
A DROP on a cuetip, and rub the contact - the black will come off and it leaves it coated for great conductivity that seems to last quite a while.
On the P67, a DROP on paper towel, then slide it in and pinch the paper towel between the button and the contact and slide it out with some light pressure (don't tear it - I got misfires ONLY when I left a bit of paper towel in there!).
Since I literally use a drop occasionally, this silly little 2 ml bottle is still going after I think a year...
A DROP on a cuetip, and rub the contact - the black will come off and it leaves it coated for great conductivity that seems to last quite a while.
On the P67, a DROP on paper towel, then slide it in and pinch the paper towel between the button and the contact and slide it out with some light pressure (don't tear it - I got misfires ONLY when I left a bit of paper towel in there!).
Since I literally use a drop occasionally, this silly little 2 ml bottle is still going after I think a year...
Yeah, I keep the batteries pretty shiny. The gold plate that makes contact to the battery top is a bit dark, and the IPA hasn't helped much with that. I'm tempted to use some 3000grit on it with a quick rub, but I know that's a big no-no on the gold plating so I won't.
Muzichead does it right with those solid silver contacts of his. They can be sanded when needed and kept pristine in addition to how hard they hit in general. I'm tempted to see if Corey could do that for the P67. But then he'd know I sold my CCs, and I don't want to hurt his feelings
I use that DeOxit on all contacts, works great.
So do I ... I also use the NO-OX-ID ... but I still clean the contacts with the white eraser first.I use that DeOxit on all contacts, works great.
Maybe I'm overdoing it
Hammertone! It's my favorite.
Sounds like fun.
I totally agree.
love the black wrinkle also
Does it have to be a white eraser? I have normal pink-ish pencil erasers on hand...Curious ... Corey sent me enough to replace all the ones in my Reo. I replaced one, and I couldn't get it to bend enough to make contact, when pushing the button.
Maybe I didn't trim the opening back far enough to give it the room it needed.
How far back did you enlarge the hole ... picture maybe
I blamed my arthritic hands, as it's a much more sturdy piece than comes with the Reo's, but maybe I was also just plain scared to make the opening big enough
For now, they just sit in the drawer.
Sloth, I use one of these white eraser pencils to clean the contact point .. works great, no need to sand.
Easy to reach inside with, on any mod .... yeah, I still use some ProV's
Thing is ... it cleans with a few swipes.
View attachment 612311
I tried again last night with cloth tape but couldn't get one spot to not be black anymore.I've had trouble replicating my parallel build again with the coil master for another atty, but I'm determined to master it. Such a good vape
I use the pink erasers from the regular wood pencils. I think they may be slightly more abrasive.
Curious ... Corey sent me enough to replace all the ones in my Reo. I replaced one, and I couldn't get it to bend enough to make contact, when pushing the button.
Maybe I didn't trim the opening back far enough to give it the room it needed.
How far back did you enlarge the hole ... picture maybe
I blamed my arthritic hands, as it's a much more sturdy piece than comes with the Reo's, but maybe I was also just plain scared to make the opening big enough
For now, they just sit in the drawer.
Sloth, I use one of these white eraser pencils to clean the contact point .. works great, no need to sand.
Easy to reach inside with, on any mod .... yeah, I still use some ProV's
Thing is ... it cleans with a few swipes.
View attachment 612311
I'm not recommending this application for most as it takes away all the safety features that Rob put into his devices...
Just a side note to anyone that has the solid silver contacts from Corey or is thinking of getting them, I would highly suggest getting the solid silver negative screw as well to complete the circuit. It made a huge difference in mine...
Here is a link to what I did... BF Mods by Custom-Classic
Just a side note to anyone that has the solid silver contacts from Corey or is thinking of getting them, I would highly suggest getting the solid silver negative screw as well to complete the circuit. It made a huge difference in mine...
Here is a link to what I did... BF Mods by Custom-Classic
I got two of his silver pos contacts and modified one of my grands. Unbelievable difference. I also did a brass screw with double brass nuts for the negative. This was done before the silver negative contacts came out. I only did one grand to see if I'd do it right or if I liked it. It's really fantastic, and you really have to want to do it as there is some modification involved.
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I always thought the white ones were more abrasive, because they're for ink. The pink ones are for pencils.
There's a big difference between the two.
The white one will not "crumble" (leave little bits behind), like the pink does.
It's much tougher, and yet soft
Material wise, I couldn't tell you the difference in composition, but it's a big one.
For around a dollar, it's worth a try .. you kinda have to see the difference for yourself.
Thanks for the picture ..
I can see the difference between how much material you removed, compared to what I did.
I need to go back to the little guy, and open it up some more.
Your right, .. at the same time, it doesn't feel more abrasive, it actually feels smoother.
In any case, for me, the white one does a much better job on the contacts.. seems to pick-up, instead of smearing.
Jup! Til I saw the price, then my eyes shut tight hehehe
oh how kewl!!
Excellent choice! I was going to vote for the HT but you decided before I saw this. I've never had either, but I have seen/held a TRA. Just wasn't my cup o tea.
((((((((Doffy))))))))) hiya hun........good to see ya!! Howzit goin?
I learned that my own self last week when I made my first parallel coil. Like you the first one stunk, then just backed the nubbin out a bit and worked like a charm. Haven't tried a second one but it wasn't just beginners luck for you if it worked great for me too
where did you get those? Been lookin for sumpthin like that. and hiya sweetie!
will keep that in mind should I ever decide to that........yur close enough to do mine!
If it's what I'm thinking, these white ones aren't the ones for ink......they're the nylon erasers, so they're not abrasive like the ink ones.
I tried the brass screw and nuts prior to doing the solid silver negative screw. Let me tell you, there's even more of a difference. Not to mention, maintenance is next to nothing... As far as I know, I am the only person that had Corey machine the silver screws for the Reo. He said everyone else scoffed at the price and decided against them. I wouldn't hesitate again to do another if I had one...
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