I would suggest not using snot in your Vision, it's thicker than VG, and might prevent good wicking...
I would suggest not using crap in your Vision either, that one is self explanatory...
OK... I'm done. Joke officially retired.
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OK... I'm done. Joke officially retired.
Yeah, the Add-On market is there.
But what would push a thinking OEM is the amount of people who don’t buy CE2’s twice because they can’t get the seal out efficiently.
How many CE2 Newbie posts have you read asking how to get the seals out? How many people don’t post the question and just toss the CE2 because they can’t figure them out?
But what would push a thinking OEM is the amount of people who don’t buy CE2’s twice because they can’t get the seal out efficiently.
How many CE2 Newbie posts have you read asking how to get the seals out? How many people don’t post the question and just toss the CE2 because they can’t figure them out?
I'm going to get some Vision Extremes myself, and when they die I'm going to take them apart, then re-wick and re-wire/solder with Kanthal and SS 400 mesh. Not exactly as convenient as a proper repairable atty/tank but I'm willing to bet it'll work even better.
As expected I just had to dissect my little buddy when he died. So I did a thorough autopsy to determine the cause of death. I found that there is no solder used in these. I think I read that a few weeks back but it didn't sink in till I saw it. lol From what I could see, they are capturing one of the wires between a silicone seal and the outer threaded base during assembly. And the top wire was some how magically attached to the metal air tube. This magical attachment area has been determined to be the cause of death. I could see a tiny tiny little bit of wire still attached but the wire broke just beyond this voodoo magic connection. It has to be some type of glue but I couldn't see any at all.
Yeah, the CE2 gets a bad rap, and I can't say it's completely undeserved. But the people -- like us -- who stick with them do so because we know they have huge potential, but require tweaking and modding to get them to reach it, and once they do they vape like nothing else. They need to get to this stage -- the modded stage, whether this particular Vision mod or something very similar for other CE2s -- where it's just uncap, fill, cap so everyone can do it easily and it vapes awesomely the first time. Instead they've been muckng about trying bottom-fed designs and sticking all sorts of crap in the way of the coil to try and trap condensation and prevent leaking and all sorts of stuff like that. The mouthpiece mod I did is straight up K.I.S.S. design: You don't need that cup seal or the male-female tube design or the bridges in the mouthpiece or any of it. You have a perfectly serviceable seal right in the mouthpiece. It just needs to be big enough to fit around the cup and the tube needs to be short enough to let it reach.
I mean, it's less material and at least two fewer processes involved in the manufacturing process, so it's quicker and cheaper to assemble. I'd think this would be looked favourably upon.
its more like a spot weld. you can solder the wire back on with no problem just use lead free solder lol
Yeah, I don't see any solder in mine either. It just looks like it's either wrapped in place around a conductive point or pinched in place by another bit of the unit. Clever idea but not one that holds up to punishment.
+1
And also open up the air passage. There is no need for that inner lip that burns on the coils and all the obsticals built into the current whistle tips. If anyone thinks that these restrictions don't effect flavor and vapor then I ask them yank everything off of their E2 carto whether it's a Fluxo or new Vision of any size. Just the coil assembly inside the tube filled with joose and carefully take a nice little hit. It's amazing the difference.
I don't think so but I could be wrong. I did think that at first, however the wall thickness of the air tube is much heavier than the tiny wire. For a proper spot weld or resistance weld both base metals have to move into a molten state. The air tube base metal would take much more energy to begin to melt than the wire thus the wire would vaporize long before the air tube was heated enough to melt.
oh... I did think about soldering it back on but I figured what the hell... 3 weeks of good use I got my money out of it. lol
I don’t see a problem, with the right choice of material, of the coil burring anything under normal operating temperatures. Maybe not while Dry Burning but not when vaping.
I have a Silicone oven mitt that I can pick things directly out of a 450 F. oven and it doesn’t burn. And it has no taste what so ever.
BTW – Don’t ask how I know a Silicone oven mitt has no taste. I just do.
i have a small resistance welder with a clamp and little electrodes for making jewelry and such. prolly similar to the kind of thing they use. only reason i never tried it for this is i don't want to take the chance of any stray current getting into the coil if i don't have it set up just right. soldering iron is a lot simpler
also i have had little bits of the inner lip of the cup seal burn onto the coil because it was touching. the little part going down into the cup can go
also i have had little bits of the inner lip of the cup seal burn onto the coil because it was touching. the little part going down into the cup can go
Way to kill a thread Moarch! LMAO!
Anyhow... Just thought I'd share this little gem with y'all.
Rule number 1 if you are doing Mindfields mod in his original post. DO NOT CUT THE TUBE DOWN TOO FAR. Bad things happen on a regular basis.
This has been a public service announcement from your local dumbass.
Anyhow... Just thought I'd share this little gem with y'all.
Rule number 1 if you are doing Mindfields mod in his original post. DO NOT CUT THE TUBE DOWN TOO FAR. Bad things happen on a regular basis.
This has been a public service announcement from your local dumbass.
Way to kill a thread Moarch! LMAO!
Anyhow... Just thought I'd share this little gem with y'all.
Rule number 1 if you are doing Mindfields mod in his original post. DO NOT CUT THE TUBE DOWN TOO FAR. Bad things happen on a regular basis.
This has been a public service announcement from your local dumbass.
Doh! I can imagine that wouldn't be too healthy. There's a little bit of tolerance in there but not much.
Is it creating wicking problems or flooding/leaking?
That is why I have not tried this yet-I am not very good at precise measurements. What about just cutting a 3/4 inch hole in the cup cap?
Way to kill a thread Moarch! LMAO!
Anyhow... Just thought I'd share this little gem with y'all.
Rule number 1 if you are doing Mindfields mod in his original post. DO NOT CUT THE TUBE DOWN TOO FAR. Bad things happen on a regular basis.
This has been a public service announcement from your local dumbass.
Doh! I can imagine that wouldn't be too healthy. There's a little bit of tolerance in there but not much.
Both kinda sorta. I really F'ed up and tried cutting one with my tube cutter after scoring it at the right length. Some how I wound up cutting it about an 1/8" too short. It worked really well other than that.
Anyhow... You can imagine how easy it is now to push the mouthpiece down too far and pinch the wick then have to slide it up a bit and knock the damn thing off every 15 minutes. I'm usually pretty good about keeping my PV standing up even in my shirt pocket so it hasn't been too bad but it's a PITA I tell ya. The damn mouthpiece went flying this morning when I got out of my truck. Good thing I heard it hit the ground or I wouldn't be laughing right now.
ummm... What?
Both kinda sorta. I really F'ed up and tried cutting one with my tube cutter after scoring it at the right length. Some how I wound up cutting it about an 1/8" too short. It worked really well other than that.
"...but other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play?"
Anyhow... You can imagine how easy it is now to push the mouthpiece down too far and pinch the wick then have to slide it up a bit and knock the damn thing off every 15 minutes. I'm usually pretty good about keeping my PV standing up even in my shirt pocket so it hasn't been too bad but it's a PITA I tell ya. The damn mouthpiece went flying this morning when I got out of my truck. Good thing I heard it hit the ground or I wouldn't be laughing right now.
Yep, that's not gonna work too well. I'd thought about what you could do to rectify that if that ever happened too but the solutions weren't very flexible. You could either cut some small slits out of either side in the mouthpiece silicone to slide the wicks into -- but then you couldn't rotate the mouthpiece to line up perpendicular to your PV's button. (It matters to me, okay?
) And if you did rotate it, it may spin the tube and possibly short a connection somewhere. There are enough problems with that without introducing an issue guaranteed to do that eventually. Then I thought maybe you could create a little spacer shim to fit over the mouthpiece to create a little extra space. I think that might work but it probably won't be pretty, and the shim would have to be extremely narrow to prevent it sticking out too far."...but other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play?"
Exactly!
I took a heat gun to my old Vision and tried to heat the glue up so I could slip it off and stick it on this one but that wasn't a good ider either. lol
The hell with it. Live and learn. But the next 3-4 weeks are gonna be interesting.
BTW, just got my 801 drip tip. It fits perfectly into the VR tube. There is a little space between the cup seal in its original position and the bottom of the DT. I pulled up the cup seal a little bit, then pushed the DT on in. It pushed the cup seal back down a bit, and voila - no leaks. Not the serious mod you guys have been talking about, but a way to get rid of the original whistle tip, and prevent too-tight a seal. Looks nicer, too.
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