The cherry vapes universal is awesome for the xl, it will work with the 306's without locking airflow and still let's you put your favorite 510 drip tip on it
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Makes sense Fernand. I do plan to order some of the more expensive atty's eventually. I got 2 of the XL tips when I ordered the 306's, in case I jack up the first one getting it to work right.
Is this the one Chief? Cherry Vape Dream Tips The 306/510 Universal If it is I'll get 1 ordered. COV is 2 hours away so I should be able to get it tomorrow if I get it ordered soon enough.
Is this the one Chief? Cherry Vape Dream Tips The 306/510 Universal If it is I'll get 1 ordered. COV is 2 hours away so I should be able to get it tomorrow if I get it ordered soon enough.
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That's the one, works with any attys and it calms any atty spitting, it rocks
That Ferdand fella keeps making sense.
I was driving into work earlier still fiddling with the 357 wondering why I could get it to perform on a ProVari or even Ego better than it had been on the XL. When an old post of his came to mind about tilt feeding and vaping.
I slightly overdid the initial tilt and got my just deserts with juice in my mouth but with a little playing.......OMG the beast lives ! Pretty certain this atty hasn't reached it's full potential as yet but it is starting to produce the flavour and vapor that it is fabled for.
I was driving into work earlier still fiddling with the 357 wondering why I could get it to perform on a ProVari or even Ego better than it had been on the XL. When an old post of his came to mind about tilt feeding and vaping.
I slightly overdid the initial tilt and got my just deserts with juice in my mouth but with a little playing.......OMG the beast lives ! Pretty certain this atty hasn't reached it's full potential as yet but it is starting to produce the flavour and vapor that it is fabled for.
That sounds truly awesome!
Could anybody point me to the video?
I have been modding for kick my Ali'i and vapage XL today (usual copper foil trick), and on the vapage ran into the problem that the kick will touch the switch connection resulting in firing. Basically the slot in the plastic is big enough for the voltage pot of the kick to slide in, so that the positive will touch the switch and fire.
If I rotate the kick so that it will rest with the voltage pot on the plastic, it twists upwards.
It will work, but the positive connector make only contact with the switch on one of the edges, and the kick is squeezed sideways between battery and chassis, too much mechanical pressure, I don't like that.
So, I put a coin (the only suitable piece of metal I could find) on top, so that the positive of the kick has something to rest on. It adds a few mm, so it's a tight fit for battery and kick, but it works. I insulated the rim of the coin, to make sure it doesn't connect with the copper foil, and when the switch touches the coin the atty fires ok.
Being a complete noob, I have two doubts:
1) It seems like the foil can carry more than 2 amp, so that the kick will ground ok and work, but perhaps not much more than that. Is performance reduced in any way, compared to using an insulated wire?
2) Is using a coin a stupid idea for some reason? Should I use a thinner metal? Does it create dispersion or reduce efficiency of the device?
For the top of the Kick, I slotted a nylon shifter bushing (spare car part) and made a C-shape that was exactly the same height as the pot on the Kick. The open area of the bushing "bit" the sides of the pot, and I used a couple tiny dots of superglue to keep it in place.
When I had the Kick in mine with the 18490, I had a stainless collar that was slotted to conform to the Kick. The collar was wired to the neg via insulated copper wire. The problem is the ground spring of the Kick wants to oxidize, and this interrupts the circuit. I kept having to fidget with the collar.
Now, with the Kick under the bottle, the pos-out pin of the Kick is gone. It had wiggled free from the Kick at one point, and I found it was too tall to go under the bottle comfortably. I soldered a 20ga wire where it was and hard-wired it to the top where the switch pin makes contact with a plate I fashioned from galvanized sheetmetal. The neg is soldered, now, on the Kick neg spring and Vmod XL neg spring, connected by a wire, as well. The pos-in is a wire from the plate on top of the batt (2 top plates separated by 3M double-sided tape as insulation) and wired down to a plate on the "floor" of the juice compartment.
vape time has increased from ~5hrs @ 8.5W with the 18490 to 10.5-12hrs @ 8.5W with the 18650. This is totally worth the Vmod XL makeover!
When I had the Kick in mine with the 18490, I had a stainless collar that was slotted to conform to the Kick. The collar was wired to the neg via insulated copper wire. The problem is the ground spring of the Kick wants to oxidize, and this interrupts the circuit. I kept having to fidget with the collar.
Now, with the Kick under the bottle, the pos-out pin of the Kick is gone. It had wiggled free from the Kick at one point, and I found it was too tall to go under the bottle comfortably. I soldered a 20ga wire where it was and hard-wired it to the top where the switch pin makes contact with a plate I fashioned from galvanized sheetmetal. The neg is soldered, now, on the Kick neg spring and Vmod XL neg spring, connected by a wire, as well. The pos-in is a wire from the plate on top of the batt (2 top plates separated by 3M double-sided tape as insulation) and wired down to a plate on the "floor" of the juice compartment.
vape time has increased from ~5hrs @ 8.5W with the 18490 to 10.5-12hrs @ 8.5W with the 18650. This is totally worth the Vmod XL makeover!
Ohh snap.
That is the way it should roll lol
Glad it worked out for you. Will follow you eventually.
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That is the way it should roll lol
Glad it worked out for you. Will follow you eventually.
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
For the top of the Kick, I slotted a nylon shifter bushing (spare car part) and made a C-shape that was exactly the same height as the pot on the Kick. The open area of the bushing "bit" the sides of the pot, and I used a couple tiny dots of superglue to keep it in place.
When I had the Kick in mine with the 18490, I had a stainless collar that was slotted to conform to the Kick. The collar was wired to the neg via insulated copper wire. The problem is the ground spring of the Kick wants to oxidize, and this interrupts the circuit. I kept having to fidget with the collar.
Now, with the Kick under the bottle, the pos-out pin of the Kick is gone. It had wiggled free from the Kick at one point, and I found it was too tall to go under the bottle comfortably. I soldered a 20ga wire where it was and hard-wired it to the top where the switch pin makes contact with a plate I fashioned from galvanized sheetmetal. The neg is soldered, now, on the Kick neg spring and Vmod XL neg spring, connected by a wire, as well. The pos-in is a wire from the plate on top of the batt (2 top plates separated by 3M double-sided tape as insulation) and wired down to a plate on the "floor" of the juice compartment.
vape time has increased from ~5hrs @ 8.5W with the 18490 to 10.5-12hrs @ 8.5W with the 18650. This is totally worth the Vmod XL makeover!
Brilliant, thanks for the detailed instructions
Yesterday I had a look into the thing after reading your post. I figured out the double plates bit but I was really wondering about the kick size. I thought you were using smaller bottles.
I don't have steel sheet to cut right now, but I'll have a look in my local shop, it all sounds really cool
It's back, and with a world of difference from before. I got the VMod in today, put the 306 on it and started squishing some juice into it. Took the first pull and it is a massive difference compared to the Hybrid atty that was on it. The 306 is 1.5ohms, didn't have any problems getting it in with the XL tip, and not having any problems with the draw. Tighter than the Hybrid but perfect for what I'm looking for. Crazy throat hit, excellent flavor, and a good amount of vapor.
So stoked for this setup. Wish I'd have tried it before I traded it off, but I'm still just as happy with the Lavatube. It's got a 306 on it now too. Thanks a lot for the recommendations on these atty's. Once I get some more money I'll go with a 357. For now, though, going to have to order some more VV Watermelon & Original Sin in the big bottles.
So stoked for this setup. Wish I'd have tried it before I traded it off, but I'm still just as happy with the Lavatube. It's got a 306 on it now too. Thanks a lot for the recommendations on these atty's. Once I get some more money I'll go with a 357. For now, though, going to have to order some more VV Watermelon & Original Sin in the big bottles.
I applaud the wires turns lol
Having spent this morning getting a Genesis up and running I appreciate the skill.
Looks great but those turns look very close.
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Having spent this morning getting a Genesis up and running I appreciate the skill.
Looks great but those turns look very close.
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
Forgot to mention that the standard 9ml bottle is just a hair too long. If you shave the unthreaded part of the top, so that the bottle threads in until it's touching the chassis (sans the tiny gap), there's just barely enough room to shoehorn the Kick in below the bottl. In fact my kick is kinda canted due to the bottle pinching it against the bottom floor of the chassis (where the pos-in plate is).
I see.. I start wondering if one can mod a bottle to make it smaller
Or get smaller ones, so to mount a kick without removing the central post..
I don't know about the availability of shorter bottles, but I'm sure you can cut a bottle shorter. It likely wouldn't look pretty but it's certainly possible.
Woah!!!!! This is cool! I'd sure like to know more about this. That coil is amazing. Wrap, wrap, wrap. It's a wrap, kids!
Speaking of atty's. What do you guys and gals think of this?
Looking closely are those slight gaps in the mesh above and below the cup ?
Hmmmm interesting if they are. Either that or the indentations in the porcelain leave the mesh slightly less dense.
Hmmmm interesting if they are. Either that or the indentations in the porcelain leave the mesh slightly less dense.
Looks like we're talking HH357, Avid Aero, bridgeless ... This is the only kind of atty I respond to anymore. It beats the 2,3,4 wrap genesis / ody LR wraps because as Fernand enlightened about how the closely wrapped coils hold the juice in one solid long line - thus more FLAVAH... That's what the HH357 is all about, besides it's clouds of vapor.
Speaking of atty's. What do you guys and gals think of this?
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