Titanium wire, vaping and safety

[HolmanGT]

George:

I tried Tony's naked dance with the ERLP and it worked for me. Actually I found that it mostly slowed down the leak so that there was just a little flooding of the chamber which can be vaped away pretty quick. I have to admit that I take care to fill really quickly and I hold a big wad of paper towel over the bottom of the device just in case. If the ERL folks designed a catch basin into their atomizers like most other tank folks I'd be all over it.

I also don't like the basic idea of the air supply coming from the 510 connection but the reason I put up with the ERLP is that the thing gives me the best vape of any tank I've tried and I've tried a LOT of them.

As of today I only have 24 gauge titanium wire and that is just a little too big to catch well under the ERLP screws. I've tried it on a Magma and it does indeed give a fantastic vape. I have some finer wire coming and I'm eager to marry titanium with my new favorite tank. That might be the thing that finally stops me from searching for the perfect vape. (Until the ERL folks give in and put a catch tank under their little toys).

Duane

OK Druckle, I really didn't do the "Tony naked dance" I just didn't want him to know I left that part out.

Well all they would have to do is decrease the size of the tank from 55 gallons to 5ml and put a chambered base on and they wouldn't have to change the overall size and they should be able to side vent the air flow.

Even when I get a build that works pretty well (no leaks) I still find myself checking for leaks by removing the Atty. With the 510 air flow I am paranoid as He!! that if it does leak it will straight down into the rather expensive Mod. But I agree when it is working correctly it does produce a good quality vape.

By the way when I have trouble with wire and terminations I sometimes default to using these they really work good and the are made from Sterling Silver:

Crimp end, sterling silver, 3x1mm tube with loop, 0.4mm inside diameter. Sold per pkg of 50. - Fire Mountain Gems and Beads

I would have used them on the ERLk but hadn't built it in so long I had forgotten about the screw problem.

 

[druckle]

OK Druckle, I really didn't do the "Tony naked dance" I just didn't want him to know I left that part out.

Well all they would have to do is decrease the size of the tank from 55 gallons to 5ml and put a chambered base on and they wouldn't have to change the overall size and they should be able to side vent the air flow.

Even when I get a build that works pretty well (no leaks) I still find myself checking for leaks by removing the Atty. With the 510 air flow I am paranoid as He!! that if it does leak it will straight down into the rather expensive Mod. But I agree when it is working correctly it does produce a good quality vape.

By the way when I have trouble with wire and terminations I sometimes default to using these they really work good and the are made from Sterling Silver:

Crimp end, sterling silver, 3x1mm tube with loop, 0.4mm inside diameter. Sold per pkg of 50. - Fire Mountain Gems and Beads

I would have used them on the ERLk but hadn't built it in so long I had forgotten about the screw problem.

Wow. I'm going to get some of those little silver thingies. Thanks for the tip. They look like they could solve a lot of problems with the tiny "round bottom" screws that everyone seems to use now days on their atties. I wonder why someone doesn't manufacture flat bottom screws with decent sized heads? Actually I suppose someone does, but knowing what the thread dimensions need to be is not always easy and I don't really need tens of packets of wrong thread screws adding to the clutter of my already messy desk.


I've never had an ERL atomizer leak even a little after the initial flood potential but I have to admit I got some really thin o rings to put around the 510 connector so if it does leak it's sealed to keep the juice from flowing down into the mod connector. The o ring seems to deform down into the little air channels in the deck to completely seal off the area. The o ring does cause the atomizer to sit "just" proud of the connector plate but there's a side benefit to that. Any condensation that might otherwise form seems to be stopped in it's tracks and everything stays totally dry down there.

 

[tchavei]

"special dance while running naked around the table" - I always do that regardless of what I am rebuilding. Doesn't everyone?

I didn't torch it to death just until it hollered for mercy. Yes I cleaned it actually I used a Brillo Soap pad (fine steel wool) and pulled the wire thru it several times and rinsed it good and clean. To tell you the truth I am not all that concerned about a little Ti oxide. Heck I am even so carefree and reckless I drive behind 18 wheeler trucks - "I love the smell of Diesel in the morning - It smells like victory" (Apocalypse Now, paraphrase).

Tony - one of these days just say yes to one of my offers if for no other reason than to shock me. It is a clone but the glass tank I bought was from IBTanked it was specially made to fit the "real thing" and it fits like a glove. Yes mine is full size and holds about 35 gallons of juice so I guess it would be of much use to you anyway but that is the only thing getting you off the hook.

Ok

Instead of the glass, send me the whole thing and I'll make a video filling it so you can see that there won't be any leaks (I'll dress myself up before shooting the video to prevent mass divorces on ECF )

Shocked enough?

 

[HolmanGT]

Wow. I'm going to get some of those little silver thingies. Thanks for the tip. They look like they could solve a lot of problems with the tiny "round bottom" screws that everyone seems to use now days on their atties. I wonder why someone doesn't manufacture flat bottom screws with decent sized heads? Actually I suppose someone does, but knowing what the thread dimensions need to be is not always easy and I don't really need tens of packets of wrong thread screws adding to the clutter of my already messy desk.


I've never had an ERL atomizer leak even a little after the initial flood potential but I have to admit I got some really thin o rings to put around the 510 connector so if it does leak it's sealed to keep the juice from flowing down into the mod connector. The o ring seems to deform down into the little air channels in the deck to completely seal off the area. The o ring does cause the atomizer to sit "just" proud of the connector plate but there's a side benefit to that. Any condensation that might otherwise form seems to be stopped in it's tracks and everything stays totally dry down there.

Druckle,

I am going to go give the o-ring a try right now. Actually I looked at that last night but then never got around to it.

 

[HolmanGT]

Ok

Instead of the glass, send me the whole thing and I'll make a video filling it so you can see that there won't be any leaks (I'll dress myself up before shooting the video to prevent mass divorces on ECF )

Shocked enough?

No, no you have to go for the complete naked and table.

 

[tchavei]

No, no you have to go for the complete naked and table. [emoji38]

Haha.

It actually is a quite elaborate dance involving growling while holding your arms up.

On more problematic cases, sometimes you also need to lift your shades and open the windows while you do the ritual for a more powerful effect.

Anyway, 100% success rate guaranteed

Cheers
Tony

 

[HolmanGT]

Haha.

It actually is a quite elaborate dance involving growling while holding your arms up.

On more problematic cases, sometimes you also need to lift your shades and open the windows while you do the ritual for a more powerful effect.

Anyway, 100% success rate guaranteed

Cheers
Tony

Tony,

If I did that with the shades open and the windows open I would be in Jail before you get this post.

Not to mention that would be considered cruel and unusual treatment of my neighbors.

 

[tchavei]

Tony,

If I did that with the shades open and the windows open I would be in Jail before you get this post.

Not to mention that would be considered cruel and unusual treatment of my neighbors.

Hehehe

You need to show the atty who is in charge. Nothing better than my suggested ritual to express male domination

Tony

Ps: do you think you would go to jail if you happen to be a female in her twenty's?

 

[HolmanGT]

Hehehe

You need to show the atty who is in charge. Nothing better than my suggested ritual to express male domination

Tony

Ps: do you think you would go to jail if you happen to be a female in her twenty's?

Absolutely not !!!

 

[tchavei]

Absolutely not !!!

What a sexist world...

 

[Marc411]

Thanks Rossum, that was one of my thoughts. Whether I use the screw heads or post holes the titanium allows me to place more torque on the screw giving the build overall better stability. I don't know much about metallurgy so I'm going to take your word on the rest.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Maybe the Erlk isn't my best choice.

I would like to use it with an authentic atty, being that its my best mod. Other than the Erlk, I have: two Gus Phenomenons but the decks are tiny, Estia, but tri coil, Rose v2, Eviva-t but again tiny deck, Calix, Spheroid again small, eXpromizer but does use a spring for the positive pin.

Cheap authentics/clones: Lemo, Aga t-7, Aqua v1 and 2, Flash e v3, k 4, Prometey v2

Would a different one be better? The Prom v2 might be the easiest.

totally OT but how do you like the calix?? Im tempted after my recent experience with Leo's apollo rda which, to my mind, is the best I have encountered!

 

[Phone Guy]

I decided to order a couple spools of 30g and 32g titanium wire.

Never even tried nickel yet lol. But now I'm set no matter what.

 

[HolmanGT]

I decided to order a couple spools of 30g and 32g titanium wire.

Never even tried nickel yet lol. But now I'm set no matter what.

Phone Guy,

You might want to drop the 32 Ga and get some 28 Ga.

With 28 Ga. and a 3mm mandrel I get 0.37 ohms with five wraps. With 32 Ga. you'll have like 2 wraps.

 

[Phone Guy]

The ring Lord only had 30 & 32 in grade 1. The other gauges don't say grade 1.

Can I use the non grade 1? I can alter my order before it ships.

 

[HolmanGT]

The ring Lord only had 30 & 32 in grade 1. The other gauges don't say grade 1.

Can I use the non grade 1? I can alter my order before it ships.

Gee Phone Guy,

I don't know about anything other than grade 1. You might want to PM Rossum and see what he thinks

 

[tchavei]

Hi guys

I torched my titanium wire this time and I noticed it becomes cobalt blue with some gold mixed if I torch it to a medium orange. Only if I torch it to almost yellow/white it then becomes lite dull grey (I suppose dioxide forms?)

Kinda strange it goes fully rainbow on me. It's certified 99.6% pure titanium grade 1.

Here a few pics (no color artifacts. That's exactly how the coil looks like).

It vapes great btw

Tony

 

[HolmanGT]

Hi guys

I torched my titanium wire this time and I noticed it becomes cobalt blue with some gold mixed if I torch it to a medium orange. Only if I torch it to almost yellow/white it then becomes lite dull grey (I suppose dioxide forms?)

Kinda strange it goes fully rainbow on me. It's certified 99.6% pure titanium grade 1.

Here a few pics (no color artifacts. That's exactly how the coil looks like).

It vapes great btw

Tony

Hey Tony looks great. Showoff !!!

Could you give Phone Guy some help he is one or two post up from yours.

 

[tchavei]

The ring Lord only had 30 & 32 in grade 1. The other gauges don't say grade 1.

Can I use the non grade 1? I can alter my order before it ships.

Well you can use it however here are my two cents (open for debate) :

Unalloyed titanium (read as pure) comes in four grades (1 to 4).

The main difference between grade 1 and grade 2 for example is the oxygen content. Oxygen is harmless HOWEVER oxygen is an oxidant (obviously) so grade 2 titanium will form that dull grey coat much faster and thicker than grade 1. If you could, 28, 29 would be my weapon of choice (grade 1). 30 will probably work but and upwards might play havoc if you build a too big coil because the resistance will be higher.

If you look at the pics I posted, that 8 wrap coil is already at 0.52 Ohms. I suspect 32 gauge will be even higher.

If I were to order and had your choice, I would go with grade 1, 30 gauge and then play a bit with it. If I weren't satisfied, I would twist it which would give me something like 27 gauge I believe.

Tony

PS: You could also try twisting 32 gauge... Would be equivalent to 28 Awg and look cool

 

[druckle]

Hi guys

I torched my titanium wire this time and I noticed it becomes cobalt blue with some gold mixed if I torch it to a medium orange. Only if I torch it to almost yellow/white it then becomes lite dull grey (I suppose dioxide forms?)

Kinda strange it goes fully rainbow on me. It's certified 99.6% pure titanium grade 1.

Here a few pics (no color artifacts. That's exactly how the coil looks like).

It vapes great btw

Tony

Tony

Those colors are just interference colors that result from development of oxides formed during heating. As the oxides become a little thicker the colors change. It's all a matter of the wavelength of light and the oxide thickness. You are talking about Angstrom thicknesses. As long as you are seeing colors like that the oxides are totally adherent and you don't need to worry about even the slightest possibility that they will get into the vapor stream. Lots of times interference colors are developed either by heating or by anodizing to create jewelry.