Did you lock in the cold resistance using the up/dn buttons simultaneously?
Titanium wire, vaping and safety
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Did you lock in the cold resistance using the up/dn buttons simultaneously?
Of course haha. Still doesn't explain the huge disparity between my ohm meter and the mod.
Well, I'm not worried about it now, a weird fluke I guess. I'm going to build at least 2 atomizers with Ti tomorrow, will see how it goes.
You assume correctly. The next step, after heating them that hot, is to pull them out and throw them away. Then start again and do not heat them like that, anything past a blue tint on the wire is just too hot. Not a good thing! Too much titanium dioxide will form at those temperatures, something you don't want at all.
Kinda what I figured. I was a little surprised TC didn't kick in and prevent that. Nooooooooow I know why, cuz the resistance was all effed up.
Parallel duals, 5 wraps of 26 gauge with 2.5mm ID should be a whole lot closer to 0.10 ohms than the 0.25-0.33 you got at first. My guess: Something wasn't making a good connection at first. I'd re-check all the capture screws first.
In fact, it's a good idea to re-check capture screws once or twice after putting any Ti coil(s) into service. Ti is a bit funny that way, what was a well torqued screw on a wire sometimes isn't after the coil has been fired some.
In fact, it's a good idea to re-check capture screws once or twice after putting any Ti coil(s) into service. Ti is a bit funny that way, what was a well torqued screw on a wire sometimes isn't after the coil has been fired some.
That's exactly what I thought. It seemed like it was initially reading one coil instead of two.
What's this about locking in the cold resistance? Haven't heard about that. Is this done in locked mode?
The guy that was having trouble was using a YiHi chip set and that is the way it is done for that chip. If you are using a DNA chip set and have the feature to lock the resistance you can it is your option. With the YiHi it is mandatory and not an option.
Don't think the DNA 40 has that feature. Thanks, Holman. BTW you are right about the yellow MXJO batteries --crap.
petemoss,
Actually the newer DNA40s have the resistance lock but if you are like me and bought in early we don't have the good fortune of being able to lock the resistance. I will say that when I get a good build and tight connections I find I don't need the lock feature.
If you are talking about where I said the MXJOs are Dog Poo-Poo I am glad to hear you agree except that probably means you were unlucky enough to buy a couple also. I have seen them advertising a version 2 of that battery but I would go near them ever again.
I don't know if it's the new lock feature, or other changes, but the latest version of the DNA40 worked a lot better for me. As you know I got a replacement for my broken VF from Preston. I put the K4 with nickel build (that was previously on the old Flask) on the new one, and it worked miles better (it always worked so-so on the old one). Didn't even change the wick or coil, just "transplanted" the tank and locked it in, and was rather amazed. Like I said, it may be down to other factors - maybe my previous one was always a bit problematic. I did open the old one up and saw that the white 510 pos wire was a bit squeezed, maybe that played a role.
I, too, never needed resistance lock on my DNA40. It's a super nice feature now that I have it, though heh.
WideO,
I don't know what changed and I don't believe those Fanboys that were always claiming that Evolv never did any back room code changes but my replacement while it doesn't have the lock feature resistance wise was much better than the first one.
I do use Sterling silver crimp eyelets on the Ni200 builds so I am able to get extremely good connections and don't use the post holes on my Lemo2 or any other atty for that matter and I attribute a lot of my resistance stability to that.
Anyway it works and works well these days (knock on wood).
That's the key. When I started using my DNA40 with nickel wire ages ago I was mostly using Kayfuns. Then I switched to Genesis atties. All in all I think I've only ever built one atty with nickel that used post holes, and even then I didn't use it because the screws split the wire haha.
If the post holes are over-drilled they will act like wire cutters. Add the little cup effect that threading produces on the end of the screw and you have a perfect wire cutter. I stuff the post holes with nickel wire and grind the ends of the screws flat. Good, solid, connections and no cut wire.
Currently, I only have two atomizers that use post holes, and both of them only get built with 20g SS wire haha. The airflow on them is way too much for a TC build.
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