Titanium wire, vaping and safety

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Madnapali

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I've had nickel wire last REALLY long in a genesis atomizer, but it doesn't play well with cotton. At all. I found myself rewicking every day and replacing coils at least once a week. So far the titanium has had the staying power of kanthal in a dripper, and I don't doubt it will go much longer before a recoil.
 

LouisLeBeau

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Hi All,
Dye'd in the wool tootle puffer, just ordered my first TC mod, IPV 4s. Got a Kanger Mini sub with a bunch of ni200 OCC coils while I get used to building Ni200 or Ti coils. Couple questions..

I ordered some 28ga Ni200, and have a spool of 30ga here from building GG readywires for my Ithaka's. But after reading this thread, I'm thinking I want to use Ti instead. Ni sounds too soft, and too low of resistance for me. I'll be building duals in a Petri RDA clone. So I ordered some of Unkamen's 30 and 32 ga Ti.
Looking at Steam Engine, and going by my tastes in previous Kanthal builds, it looks like I want to build the following duals:
32 ga. Ti
2.1mm ID 7/6 wraps
.4 ohms total (.8 each)

The numbers on this are impressive as heck. Heat capacity of only 4.05. Should be lighting quick heatup and cooldown.
Looks like about 20 watts are going to get me to my preferred heat flux area, although I will compare it to 375ish Fahrenheit and see where that falls.
I could also double the wraps, 14/13, and that would take me to .8 ohms @~37watts, doubles the heat capacity but also increases surface area considerably for more vapor, and I would PROBABLY have to pinch this to get it to fit well in the RBA.

Does that sound about right to you all, or do I need to throw away everything I know about building coils and start new with this new tech?
Can I gently heat and pinch this, or do you think it's better spaced?
Thanks for all thats been written so far, a GREAT resource.
Advice GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks!
 
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jks89

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Hi All,
Dye'd in the wool tootle puffer, just ordered my first TC mo, IPV 4s. Got a Kanger Mini sub with a bunch of ni200 OCC coils while I get used to building Ni200 or Ti coils. Couple questions..

I ordered some 28ga Ni200, and have a spool of 30ga here from building GG readywires for my Ithaka's. But after reading this thread, I'm thinking I want to use Ti instead. Ni sounds too soft, and too low of resistance for me. I'll be building duals in a Petri RDA clone. So I ordered some of Unkamen's 30 and 32 ga Ti.
Looking at Steam Engine, and going by my tastes in previous Kanthal builds, it looks like I want to build the following duals:
32 ga. Ti
2.1mm ID 7/6 wraps
.4 ohms total (.8 each)

The numbers on this are impressive as heck. Heat capacity of only 4.05. Should be lighting quick heatup and cooldown.
Looks like about 20 watts are going to get me to my preferred heat flux area, although I will compare it to 375ish Fahrenheit and see where that falls.

Does that sound about right to you all, or do I need to throw away everything I know about building coils and start new with this new tech?
Can I gently heat and pinch this, or do you think it's better spaced?
Thanks for all thats been written so far, a GREAT resource.
Advice GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks!

You can heat Ti wire with no problem, but the general consensus is to make sure the wire doesn't go beyond a dark blue color. Some have made contact coils, but I think most go with spaced partly because it's easier and partly because there isn't necessarily much of a benefit from a contact coil in the TC world. I'm sure someone else will speak up if I'm wrong, but that's been my observation so far.

As far as forgetting everything you knew about building coils before, not necessarily. It seems to be more about getting back to the basics. Since you can't dry fire Ti or Ni the same way as Kanthal, Nichrome, etc., some of the more complex builds don't function as well. Again, some still do clapton TC coils, but I like the easy route.

You might find 32g to be too thin, or you might like it. The only Ti I've worked with so far is 26g, and I'll be looking to try some 28 or 30 when this spool runs out. My most recent build was I think 5 spaced wraps, 3mm ID, 26g. Came out to .29. Working well so far on my istick tc40w other than a bit of leaking which I think was my own fault during top fill.
 

awsum140

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Hi All,
Dye'd in the wool tootle puffer, just ordered my first TC mod, IPV 4s. Got a Kanger Mini sub with a bunch of ni200 OCC coils while I get used to building Ni200 or Ti coils. Couple questions..

I ordered some 28ga Ni200, and have a spool of 30ga here from building GG readywires for my Ithaka's. But after reading this thread, I'm thinking I want to use Ti instead. Ni sounds too soft, and too low of resistance for me. I'll be building duals in a Petri RDA clone. So I ordered some of Unkamen's 30 and 32 ga Ti.
Looking at Steam Engine, and going by my tastes in previous Kanthal builds, it looks like I want to build the following duals:
32 ga. Ti
2.1mm ID 7/6 wraps
.4 ohms total (.8 each)

The numbers on this are impressive as heck. Heat capacity of only 4.05. Should be lighting quick heatup and cooldown.
Looks like about 20 watts are going to get me to my preferred heat flux area, although I will compare it to 375ish Fahrenheit and see where that falls.

Does that sound about right to you all, or do I need to throw away everything I know about building coils and start new with this new tech?
Can I gently heat and pinch this, or do you think it's better spaced?
Thanks for all thats been written so far, a GREAT resource.
Advice GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks!

I'll chime in and say I was a tootle puffer, too, then I found Ti and rayon. So much for tootling. I bought 28 and 30 gauge and have sttled on 28 gauge. Dual coils come in at around .28 ohms and work great! Seven to eight wraps on a 12 gauge blunt needle does the trick, for me anyway.
 
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JimScotty0

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You can heat Ti wire with no problem, but the general consensus is to make sure the wire doesn't go beyond a dark blue color. Some have made contact coils, but I think most go with spaced partly because it's easier and partly because there isn't necessarily much of a benefit from a contact coil in the TC world. I'm sure someone else will speak up if I'm wrong, but that's been my observation so far.

As far as forgetting everything you knew about building coils before, not necessarily. It seems to be more about getting back to the basics. Since you can't dry fire Ti or Ni the same way as Kanthal, Nichrome, etc., some of the more complex builds don't function as well. Again, some still do clapton TC coils, but I like the easy route.

You might find 32g to be too thin, or you might like it. The only Ti I've worked with so far is 26g, and I'll be looking to try some 28 or 30 when this spool runs out. My most recent build was I think 5 spaced wraps, 3mm ID, 26g. Came out to .29. Working well so far on my istick tc40w other than a bit of leaking which I think was my own fault during top fill.
Yep, that exact setup has worked well for me too. I have found that more than the coil building the actual wicking is the key with all builds but it seems especially true for Ti builds.
 

HolmanGT

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Yep, that exact setup has worked well for me too. I have found that more than the coil building the actual wicking is the key with all builds but it seems especially true for Ti builds.

Jim,

I can't honestly say I have noticed much difference between Ti and Ni but I couldn't agree more that wicking it the big magic piece of the pie. I don't care what you heat rayong with if it is not getting the juice flow you are not going to get a good vape.

I honestly think that is why a lot of folks gravitate towards "Drippers" you can get away with poor wicking action and compensate by dripping more often. :2c:

Personally I am too lazy for drippers. :)
 

JimScotty0

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Jim,

I can't honestly say I have noticed much difference between Ti and Ni but I couldn't agree more that wicking it the big magic piece of the pie. I don't care what you heat rayong with if it is not getting the juice flow you are not going to get a good vape.

I honestly think that is why a lot of folks gravitate towards "Drippers" you can get away with poor wicking action and compensate by dripping more often. :2c:

Personally I am too lazy for drippers. :)
You know I bought my Mutuation x v4 a couple of weeks ago at the same time I bought my Zephyrus. I wanted to see what all the fuss was about with dripping since I had not yet had a dripper. I built it with Ti and it is very enjoyable I must say. But the laziness in me also prefers the tank option so I don't have to keep dripping especially when I am just not in a place to make that easy. I am using it while I write this but only because my Zephrus and my Lemo 2 are being cleaned and re-wicked for another week of vaping. I find the dripper good for those purposes and also for testing out a new batch of DIY. Other than that I prefer an also great vape on my Zephrus and Lemo 2. I am also considering and looking into the Goliath v2 and also the Aromamizer RTDA which is kinda like a dripper with a tank.

These days I am enjoying the dual Ti coils which are bringing me around .123 ohms resistance with my builds. Something I can't do with the NI200 without needing a giant deck area for the larger coil lengths along with the other issues with having to evenly heat up such a long spaced coil.

Anyone using Ti on the Aromamizer RTDA or on the Goliath v2 and enjoying it?
 
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TomHell

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Anyone using Ti on the Aromamizer RTDA or on the Goliath v2 and enjoying it?
I'm using Ti on the Goliath V1 and like it. I'm using dual 24 gauge 6/5 wraps 2.4mm diameter coils. Ohms at .105 on my SX mini. I think the ramp up time is better than kanthol (never used 24 ga Ni) and can handle high temps well. I don't think I'll ever be going back to Ni.
 

alee132

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I was going to try testing out some of sweet spots ti wire even though its supposedly grade 2 and I even bought a 10 foot roll. Then like a sign from god... Wait, oh ya, its just because I am an idiot. This day like what usually seems to happen as I constantly have something purchased online I am awaiting lots of vape mail but it all came in at the same time. I had 5 different boxes waiting for me outside my door! Mostly different stuff to put together my first dna200 mod but also ti wire to try out on it. In my excitement to put together my dna200 I threw out all the boxes and packaging except for one box which I had several different sizes of heatshrink and the ti wire. I had put a bunch of garbage in it while putting together my dna200 for some reason and the next day I saw it when cleaning my room with the garbage in it and threw it out. I figured out what I had done within a couple of hours when I wanted to use the ti wire and went looking for it and remembered it was in the box with the heat shrink, well it was gone and I figured out I had dumped it and the heatshrink on accident along with the garbage. So I went out to the alley and looked but the dumpster had already been emptied by the garbage truck of coarse.
 

druckle

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Anything wrong with being lazy? :D

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.


Laziness is the root of all human progress.

If we weren't inherently lazy we wouldn't have invented tools to make things easier.
If we had invented tools where would we be? ;)

Duane
 

alee132

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Anyways I was going to reorder some now that I had some more money but I didn't want to waste the money on another 10 foot roll because its just a super high price per foot and I had already thrown money away so it felt wrong. So I proceded to investigate different sources for something cheaper. I didn't like the price of the spiderwire or whatever and then there was the unkamensupplies which was good prices but I wasn't sure about how clean or good the wire really was, I am paranoid about it I guess. Anyways I found that stealthvapes had some for a decent price. Infact they have both 0.40MMX10M and 0.50MMX10M for less than $10 USD. I got one roll of each size, it came to $25.26 USD with shipping. So for some 24 and 26 gauge 30 foot rolls, instead of paying sweet spots $30 for 50 feet I paid $25.16 for 65.6168 feet. Plus I get 2 different sizes. I am wondering if anyone here has used stealthvapes ti wire and if so is it good? Also have you compared it to other ti wire, such as sweet spots or others? Is the stuff from amazon or anywhere else the same thing? I looked at stealthvapes data sheet, the numbers seem very impressive as way below the grade 1 requirements imo. Also I am curious about making clapton coils with this ti wire, I have done ni200 26g core with 30g ni200 wrapped over it. Works great, but can I do this with ti .4/.5 core and 30h ni200 outside and get even better results with dna200. I could use the steam engine calc but I am not sure on mixed clapton coils if you should just use the TCR of the core because it uses the wire that has the least resistance. So if I make a ti core/ni200 outside claptop. Should I use just ti TCR or a ti/ni200 mixed TCR?
 

tchavei

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Anyways I was going to reorder some now that I had some more money but I didn't want to waste the money on another 10 foot roll because its just a super high price per foot and I had already thrown money away so it felt wrong. So I proceded to investigate different sources for something cheaper. I didn't like the price of the spiderwire or whatever and then there was the unkamensupplies which was good prices but I wasn't sure about how clean or good the wire really was, I am paranoid about it I guess. Anyways I found that stealthvapes had some for a decent price. Infact they have both 0.40MMX10M and 0.50MMX10M for less than $10 USD. I got one roll of each size, it came to $25.26 USD with shipping. So for some 24 and 26 gauge 30 foot rolls, instead of paying sweet spots $30 for 50 feet I paid $25.16 for 65.6168 feet. Plus I get 2 different sizes. I am wondering if anyone here has used stealthvapes ti wire and if so is it good? Also have you compared it to other ti wire, such as sweet spots or others? Is the stuff from amazon or anywhere else the same thing? I looked at stealthvapes data sheet, the numbers seem very impressive as way below the grade 1 requirements imo. Also I am curious about making clapton coils with this ti wire, I have done ni200 26g core with 30g ni200 wrapped over it. Works great, but can I do this with ti .4/.5 core and 30h ni200 outside and get even better results with dna200. I could use the steam engine calc but I am not sure on mixed clapton coils if you should just use the TCR of the core because it uses the wire that has the least resistance. So if I make a ti core/ni200 outside claptop. Should I use just ti TCR or a ti/ni200 mixed TCR?
I'm using stealthvape Ti. I find it really good and you can't beat 99.89% purity easily. I think that's what also raises the price tag. You can't compare that wire to another that barely passes grade 1 specs. I wish more vendors would publish their Ti datasheet but maybe the fact they don't publish it, is reason enough to wonder... ?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
 

vaperXant

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Just got my Vector RDA in the mail, first build. Also took out mesh.

I'm using Ti Grade 1 wire .40 mm 26 gauge,

Dual 6 wraps @ 2.5 ID = ~ .14 ohms

Perfect vape at any Joules setting. I am vaping fairly high at around 60-100J and 480F

The vector itself is build great and very light, threading is smooth. Best RDA I have ever purchased. Also have a magma with the same build but its not hitting as well.
 

2legsshrt

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Vape Atomizer Mesh company has it fairly cheap. It is good as far as I can tell. It does have a little machine oil or what I believe is machine oil. I just wipe it with alcohol once and it is gone. I don't think it is as pure as Stealth Vapes but I got overly anxious waiting for Rob to get his wire ready so got the Vape Mesh instead. I am coming up on 2 weeks with mine on 4 atties so will rewick soon and see what it looks like when I rinse it with water. QM recommended it to me.
 

WideO

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I'm using stealthvape Ti. I find it really good and you can't beat 99.89% purity easily.

Well, technically, 99.90% would beat it. ;). That said, I'll probably try their Ti wire too. I think it's my duty to have enough wick & coil stock to supply ... Belgium. :unsure::2cool: <hums Long Tall Sally>
 

tchavei

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Well, technically, 99.90% would beat it. ;). That said, I'll probably try their Ti wire too. I think it's my duty to have enough wick & coil stock to supply ... Belgium. :unsure::2cool: <hums Long Tall Sally>
I said: can't be beat... "Easily"... :D

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
 
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TheBloke

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I'm using stealthvape Ti. I find it really good and you can't beat 99.89% purity easily. I think that's what also raises the price tag. You can't compare that wire to another that barely passes grade 1 specs. I wish more vendors would publish their Ti datasheet but maybe the fact they don't publish it, is reason enough to wonder... ?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Ah cool so they got it out. Pretty expensive :) Well I'll order some and compare it to Crazy Wire.

Crazy now have theirs listed on their main site, wireandstuff.co.uk - GR1 (Grade 1) Titanium Wire. And also now have additional sizes, in total they have: 32G, 30G, 29G, 26G, 24G, 22G (and a few more down to 18G)

I left the forum only a day or so after I got my Crazy Wire, so I never came back to discuss. So far it seems great. Only thing I hadn't expected was that the 26G / 0.4mm, my preferred size, seems to be basically a ribbon cable. It's very flat. I thought that was weird at first but actually I've come to quite like it - greater surface area touching the wick, and also I've found it slightly easier to get bigger coils into restricted chimneys; because the wire is so flat, I can have a (slightly) bigger ID in the same limited space.

I notice also that Crazy say tech specs are 'coming soon' - I will email to ask them if they can put out a data sheet like Stealth have got. I do know for sure that Crazy's is medical grade and vacuum annealed - their main use of Titanium is for medical titanium mesh and they used the same supplier to get the vaping wire out.
 

TheotherSteveS

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Ah cool so they got it out. Pretty expensive :) Well I'll order some and compare it to Crazy Wire.

Crazy now have theirs listed on their main site, wireandstuff.co.uk - GR1 (Grade 1) Titanium Wire. And also now have additional sizes, in total they have: 32G, 30G, 29G, 26G, 24G, 22G (and a few more down to 18G)

I left the forum only a day or so after I got my Crazy Wire, so I never came back to discuss. So far it seems great. Only thing I hadn't expected was that the 26G / 0.4mm, my preferred size, seems to be basically a ribbon cable. It's very flat. I thought that was weird at first but actually I've come to quite like it - greater surface area touching the wick, and also I've found it slightly easier to get bigger coils into restricted chimneys; because the wire is so flat, I can have a (slightly) bigger ID in the same limited space.

I notice also that Crazy say tech specs are 'coming soon' - I will email to ask them if they can put out a data sheet like Stealth have got. I do know for sure that Crazy's is medical grade and vacuum annealed - their main use of Titanium is for medical titanium mesh and they used the same supplier to get the vaping wire out.


the SV wire is significantly less springy that the CW. I got the 26g and it is very good but, as you say, expensive!
 
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