You don't have too. Just have fun reading whatever you have time for.Can't keep up with this thread
The important thing is that you know there are many knowledgable, happy to help, people here whenever you need assistance.
Tootle Puffers, Part Three! (The Sequel of the Redux)
- Thread starter Katdarling
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The important thing is that you know there are many knowledgable, happy to help, people here whenever you need assistance.
Can't keep up with this thread
The trick it not to try. Just land where you're at, and jump in wherever you feel like. Nobody's tracking (at least I don't THINK they are).
I don't coil them myself, I get them from FT already coiled, for cheep also.
$1.84 Pre-Coiled Welded Wires - NR-R-NR (50-Pack) 50-pack - 33 AWG / 2.4ohm / 32*32mm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
LOVE the pre-coiled ones. I've got stacks of them too.
Sorry, I'm lazy. Worth every penny (IMO).
Yeah it has been helpful and I've given up trying to keep up
Hey. I noted you didn't adequately read posts 4567544 to 4567549. Please correct this error immediately or face the consequences.The trick it not to try. Just land where you're at, and jump in wherever you feel like. Nobody's tracking (at least I don't THINK they are).
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I bought a CoilMaster recently. I used it a few times and decided that I like using a mandrel better. As you said, the mandrel allows you to make tighter coils that don't slide around when you install them. It's possible to hold one end and pull on the other to tighten the coil after using the CoilMaster, but with the mandrel a tight coil is a natural end result just because you are pulling on the wire as you wrap it.
I don't particularly like spaced coils, but they are necessary for TC. I just stretch them a little and compress them back. There's enough space to prevent shorting so that TC can detect resistance changes, especially if you use wire that can be dry burned to anneal it.
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I have had a low wattage breakthrough!
Background
After vaping a couple years on cartos I tried moving to a Protank and cheap VV devices and experienced a burning sensation in my throat at any voltage that led me back to mechs and eventually ProVaris. Every other PWM implementation I tried gave me that burning sensation and taste, although the original Evic was better than the rest. I suspect my throat has become more sensitive than most vapers. I settled in with ProVaris at about 3.9 volts or six watts and was fine.
I won a Coolfire 4 and thought it's ability to offer more of a DC (direct current, like a battery) power experience would work, but even at it's lowest setting of six watts it was still harsh. I set it aside, glad that at the least the ProVari would work for me. The last couple years have been great, but a little boring.
One More Try
I was looking at some cheap options to try out the DNA boards which are supposed to provide DC quality step down. I almost got the SVD 2 but it is a whopping long tube and I have a small hoard of ProVaris already. Instead I stumbled on a closeout on a Waidea Vaporflask clone with a clone DNA 40 chipset. With a claimed 1-40 watt range, at $10 it was worth a try.
The mod worked great, but at six watts gave me the same harshness as most others and I sadly set it aside for a couple days. I liked the hand feel so much I gave it another try last weekend, dialing the wattage down even further to 4.7. (Ridiculous, right?) This resulted in a voltage of about 3.5.
My Epiphany
It was suddenly a damn good vape, almost as smooth as my ProVari at 3.9 volts! I then dug out the Coolfire 4, which is VV/VW, switched to voltage mode and set it down to 3.5 volts. IT WORKED!
I now know that I can use a variety of mods as long as they let me get below five watts and have a clean step down circuit. Apparently the ProVari chipset gives me such smooth filtering of their PWM that I can enjoy about .4 higher voltage than any other device.
I now have three regulated mods in my active rotation - the Coolfire, the Vaporflask clone and of course the Provari 2.5! There may be some DNA 40 closeouts in my future!
I'm curious to know if you've tried unflavored juice. Maybe the flavorings are irritating your throat. I like 2 ohm 2.5mm coils in a Kayfun LPV2 with Kanthal and +/- 1 ohm with SS316L (10 wraps on both). Even vaping 70pg juice I have just a little throat hit. Maybe a higher VG juice? You didn't specify your mix.
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It is and it's good if it's shiny grey. Titanium coils turn a dull ashy grey if you dry burn. Dry burning TI is a no-no. I found that out the hard way! Once you dry burn TI it's trashed. Most other wires can be dry burned.
SS and Kanthal eventually get dull grey and powdery looking when it's time to replace. I tend to recoil with SS and Kanthal about once a month, sometimes sooner. Wire is cheap and new wire seems to work better. The shiny grey color of a new coil after dry burning is said to be an Alumina coating.
FWIW, this link is a "10 dollar description" (as opposed to the simple answer) of Alumina formation on heated steel and how it helps prevent corrosion.
Alumina-Forming Austenitic Alloys Resist High-Temperature Corrosion
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Do you buy them for your CLRs? I was thinking about getting some but can't figure out which. Does this one seem right? The ohms are right for me.
$1.99 Free Shipping Pre-Coiled Wires for Rebuildable Atomizers (50-Pack) (0.3mm Dia., 1.5ohm, 30*30mm: 50-Pack) at m.FastTech.com
I'm sure you can use those quite easily! CLRs are just like building PT2 heads for me, so jup, those'd be okey-dokey....
I think they will be to wide
, I use these=https://img.fasttechcdn.com/221/2210204/2210204-1.jpgthey fit great, use the drop down menu to find the ohm you want, that look like these
Link to product:I think they will be to wide
they fit great, use the drop down menu to find the ohm you want, that look like these
$3.26 Pre-Coiled Wires for Rebuildable Atomizers (100-Pack) - 29 AWG / 0.3mm dia. / 1.1ohm / 12*12mm leads / 5 loops at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Nothing wrong with vaping how you like as long as you understand the limitations of the device. I like my VV3's and 4's. I also no they are going to be scrap in 3 years and I am good with that.
I like them too. I get the nr-r-nr coils and build everything with them.
For you that use the Melo tank: I'm wondering what settings you use?
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Does anyone have any idea of what could've happened?
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I've read the nr-r-nr coils save the rubber insulators. Are there any other differences between those and regular coils. I dry burn the CLR coils and haven't noticed any damage to insulators, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Just wondering if there is anything I should be aware of with the nr-r-nr.
I have a Melo 3 that came on the first Pico I bought. I don't like anything about it except the look. It's pretty, but no matter what coil I use, I haven't been able to get the draw right (too airy) and find the flavor subpar compared to other attys I have. It stays in the box.
Seems odd it'd just jump wattage, never had that happen.
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