tube juice feeding???

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Scottbee

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Hey Scott,
Observations are a great thing, what one cannot see in front of them many around them can. I have been going 1/8" max above the battery connector center post just for that reason and it pulls the liquid just fine without having to be in close proximity of the heating coils bottom mesh. So far I have emptied one 5ml fob in a 9 hour stretch. Whenever vapor falls off I simply use a rapid inhale in secessions of three and vapor returns. After 9 hours of use I have gotton accustomed to the feel of how hard to ihale for the results I want. I have this hooked to my EGO as we speak and it works wonderfully. Pics below
Dan

Dan,

Nice work and I'm thrilled (as I have mentioned before) that others are going down this path.

I don't want to thwart or predispose anybody to any specific direction.... I went one way, but that's not to say that other vectors work equally well and I too have much to learn.

Rock on!
 

mianker

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Originally Posted by Circumspice
Hey guys! Will one of you please do a photo tutorial for those of us who are conceptually challenged? I have good basic skills and fairly good, but outdated electronics knowledge... A photo tutorial would bridge the gap for me! Please? Thanks!


No problem I will work on one.
Dan

YEAH, Circumspice thanks for asking what I didn't want to. I was starting to worry all these little parts I have coming in were going to be totally useless. At least now I hope to make an attempt. I probably have enough stuff coming for at least half a dozen attempts.
 

Circumspice

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You're welcome Mianker. I don't know about you, but I need all the help I can get! :lol: Thanks really should go to Dan, AKA/Scubabatdan, for consenting to put together a photo tutorial. Thanks again Dan! :D


Originally Posted by Circumspice
Hey guys! Will one of you please do a photo tutorial for those of us who are conceptually challenged? I have good basic skills and fairly good, but outdated electronics knowledge... A photo tutorial would bridge the gap for me! Please? Thanks!


No problem I will work on one.
Dan

YEAH, Circumspice thanks for asking what I didn't want to. I was starting to worry all these little parts I have coming in were going to be totally useless. At least now I hope to make an attempt. I probably have enough stuff coming for at least half a dozen attempts.
 

asdaq

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I'm kinda amazed that you guys are having such good "luck" with those large needles. Most of my work was based on 24XX, 24TW, and 24RW stock.

For me, the "luck" only happens when the tank is airtight except inside the top connector. Your SS stock looks be in the neighborhood of 22 and 23G needles with respect to ID/OD. I can barely pass medium-viscous PG/VG mix through a 22G with a syringe, a 21G is much easier but by no means feeder flowing. Maybe you are letting a lot more air into the system?

And I was just curious if the Super Tornego II is still your go-to device, and what you use on the top of it-- would take days to find something in the cartomizer forums :D

Thanks again Dan, I haven't the camera, patience or extra parts to do a good how to and text-only sux :unsure:. yours are much nicer!

Oh, almost forgot. Dan, are you strictly soldering or using some other sealant to close things up?
 
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asdaq

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In the reef-tank world they use those medical iv drip bags to dose chemicals into their tanks. You know the things they hang from the poles? Evidently you can control the drip speed to a pretty fine degree.

Has anyone tried those?

Auntbeast, IV drip works via gravity feed, and is easy enough to regulate with a valve, but I'd bet the drippers out there just don't have the patience. :p
 

Scubabatdan

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Thanks again Dan, I haven't the camera, patience or extra parts to do a good how to and text-only sux :unsure:. yours are much nicer!

Oh, almost forgot. Dan, are you strictly soldering or using some other sealant to close things up?

No problems, I use solder on the hole for the bottom center post, and the two side air holes on the bottom atty connector. Glue around the shoulder of both connectors just prior to pressing them into place, I use "Gorilla Super Glue" with a tooth pick.

Dan
 

Scottbee

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For me, the "luck" only happens when the tank is airtight except inside the top connector. Your SS stock looks be in the neighborhood of 22 and 23G needles with respect to ID/OD. I can barely pass medium-viscous PG/VG mix through a 22G with a syringe, a 21G is much easier but by no means feeder flowing. Maybe you are letting a lot more air into the system?

Yeah.. I don't try to regulate or restrict the "makeup" air. For me that proved to be unreliable and finicky.

And I was just curious if the Super Tornego II is still your go-to device, and what you use on the top of it-- would take days to find something in the cartomizer forums :D

I've used quite a few different atomizers on top of it.. but these days I've settled in with a Bauway LR atty.
 

Krythis

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Can someone explain what the benefit is for this style feeding system versus a 'bottom feeder' where the juice is pushed up by squeezing a bottle or pumped?

I'd think that the juice viscosity, needle gauge, and user sucking power would make it very difficult to get this 'just right'. I like how you can have a feeding system and not use a boxy body but are there other benefits?
 

Scubabatdan

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Can someone explain what the benefit is for this style feeding system versus a 'bottom feeder' where the juice is pushed up by squeezing a bottle or pumped?

I'd think that the juice viscosity, needle gauge, and user sucking power would make it very difficult to get this 'just right'. I like how you can have a feeding system and not use a boxy body but are there other benefits?

The benefit is you don’t have to reposition your hand and squeeze the bottom or top fed bottle. Just suck :) It did not take long for me to realize the benefit, when driving or at work I have to stop and concentrate on how long I squeeze then check to see if I squeezed enough. With this you just inhale a little harder and hit the switch. It is a lot more convenient and does not require any hand manipulation, valuable when driving. I made a couple of these for friends and both said this thing is wicked, you could sell these! They cannot imagine being without them now and want backups. They are just more convenient to use.
Hope this helps,
Dan
 

Scubabatdan

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Ok here we go….

To make a tube juice feeder AKA SUCKaTON, you need the following:

One 510 Atty connector (From any dead atty)
One 510 Battery Connector from Madvapes
510 Battery Connector, Gold, Large Hole

One 16GA 1.5” needle depending on the length of the pill fob you might need 2
Ideal® Poly Hub Disposable Needle, 16 G x 1-1/2 in., 5 pk. - 2280907 | Tractor Supply Company

One Pill fob, I use the CVS Compact Pill Caddy
Buy CVS Compact Pill Caddy online at CVS.com
Tools:
Drill, 7/32” drill bit, Hacksaw, Dremel with cutoff wheel, Pliers, Dikes, Hammer, Soldering gun, Silver Solder, hand file.

To start take the pill fob and use a hacksaw and cut the key chain connector off, once cut off use a file and smooth off the jagged pieces so the top is flat and smooth,:
IMAGE_357.jpg


Next drill 7/32” holes in both ends:
IMAGE_358.jpg


Holes drilled:
IMAGE_359.jpg


Next get an old cartomizer and remove the center post and rubber seal, we will use this seal on the atomizer:
IMAGE_360.jpg


Make sure the center post of the cartomizer is the long style and:
IMAGE_361.jpg


Solder the air hole closed in the cartomizer center post:
IMAGE_362.jpg


Next remove the center post from the 510 atomizer connector:
IMAGE_363.jpg


Discard the old 510 center post and rubber seal:
IMAGE_364.jpg


You are now left with the part we need for the atomizer connector:
IMAGE_365.jpg


Locate the two holes on the atomizer connector, the are opposite of each other:
IMAGE_366.jpg


Now solder them closed:
IMAGE_367.jpg


You are now done with the atomizer connector prep, and are ready to begin with the needle prep:
IMAGE_368.jpg


Take the needle and use a pair of dikes to cut the plastic off:
IMAGE_369.jpg


Take care not to marr the inside metal needle swedge:
IMAGE_370.jpg


Separate needle metal swedge from plastic housing:
IMAGE_371.jpg


The end of the needle is now ready to be extended, if your pill fob is greater than 40mm in length you will have to use more than one needle, just cut off an inch from an other needle and insert into the end:
IMAGE_372.jpg


Use a pair of dikes to squeeze the outer casing onto the needle extension:
IMAGE_373.jpg


Now using a hammer lightly tap the needle into the end of the cartomizer center post that we soldered, keep tapping until the bevel of the needle disappears into the cartomizer tube:
IMAGE_374.jpg


Now remember the facing side of the needle bevel and drop down some and use a dremel cutting wheel or jewelers file to notch a hole in the tube close to the bottom shoulder:
IMAGE_375.jpg


The notch should only go so deep as to allow liquid to flow up the tube, about half way through the tube:
IMAGE_376.jpg


Top view of notch:
IMAGE_377.jpg


Side view of notch:
IMAGE_378.jpg


Now press the needle carto assembly into the 510 atomizer connecter:
IMAGE_379.jpg


Bottom assembly complete:
IMAGE_380.jpg


Now let’s take the top of our pill fob and press the connector in place:
IMAGE_381.jpg


Before it is full seated use your choice of epoxy and a tooth pick and spread a little around the shoulder of the connector and press it flush:
IMAGE_382.jpg


Now let’s dry fit the bottom connector and use a sharpie to mark the needle, this should extend about 1/8” from the top of the pill fob, cut off the excess.
IMAGE_384.jpg


As with the top use your choice of epoxy and a tooth pick and spread some around the mating shoulder and press it into place:
IMAGE_383.jpg


Here is the finished product, now all we need to do is fill it:
IMAGE_385.jpg


With your choice of juice:
IMAGE_386.jpg


Put the top on:
IMAGE_387.jpg


Admire your handy work:
IMAGE_388.jpg


Attach it to you PV:
IMAGE_389.jpg


And enjoy!!!

An alternate way as MisterD does it, is to solder 2 LED legs so they protrude from the atomizer connector on the inside, then you set the needle over one of the legs allowing for the other leg to provide support and electrical connection. This way does not need a cartomizer center tube, and allows you to use different needle diameters.

I hope this helps everyone to make their own SUCKaTON!

This can be done with virtually any size metal pill fob, it is only limited to your imagination, a word of caution, if you decide on an anodized pill fob you WILL have to remove the anodized coloring from around the inside and outside threads for the negative connection.

Thanks for enduring this rather long post!
Dan
 
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Scottbee

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why dont you post a tutorial on how to build your dream PV? that'd be the T I T S!!!!:D

MisterD....

While I don't really have any huge objection to doing that (except for the time required), I'm not really sure how much help it would be to most folks.. heck, almost anybody.

Look at Dan's stuff. Nicely done instructions that most modders could follow if they can work a Dremel. In order to follow in my footsteps... you would absolutely have to have a lathe, a mill, and the ability to machine to .0005" tolerances. Not out of the question... but....?

Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to follow the pill-fob instructions and then tweak and enhance from there.
 
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