So envious of all you people receiving your vape mail...it is killing me waiting for my VF V3 1:1 w/ TC from 3F! Just found out it may be 2/15 before the RDNA Vapor Sharks start flowing! Hope it wont delay the flask!
Vapor Flask V2 clone .. who do we buy this mod from?
- Thread starter Flt Simulation
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Then it will be Chinese new year and it will be weeks before shipping starts again!
@Cruncy2k - Today must be your day! I'm excited for ya! Post your Review! Tired of going across the pond for reviews!
@Nikkita6 - If you can tear yourself away from @Cruncy2k's serenade long enough to give us a review, I at least would appreciate it. (Know is a wire thing-just couldn't leave it alone!)
Sorry Cruncy2K!
@Nikkita6 - If you can tear yourself away from @Cruncy2k's serenade long enough to give us a review, I at least would appreciate it. (Know is a wire thing-just couldn't leave it alone!)
Sorry Cruncy2K!
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I will Tpat, just need another couple of days for my new set of batteries to arrive, which should have been here before the Kangxin Flask
I don't want to use a pair of older and unmarried batts to test it, so that it the reason for my delayed feedback on function and performance. In other news .. it appears that FT listed the Kangxin Flasks today, but there are definite differences between what they listed, and what I received last week. On FT's red version the threads on the battery slots are anodized however, mine are not. My threads are perfectly clean and free of any paint or anodizing. Also the Vaporflask logo on FT's version is also painted, whereas again mine is not. Also my Flask appears to be better built and assembled all around.
The packaging is also different however, I was informed late last week that Kangxin had planned on changing the packaging, even as I didn't see the new package. I think that Kangxin is separating stock for Foreign Trade, from stock being sold domestically, hence the reason for some of these differences. While it sucks, China has always reserved their premium stock for Foreign Trade, so that is nothing new.
For those who received their Flask from 3fvape, how did yours turn up in terms of threading, etc?
wish I could tell you how the 3fvape 40w flask is nikki! it left china on the 22 and that's the last time tracking updatedI will Tpat, just need another couple of days for my new set of batteries to arrive, which should have been here before the Kangxin Flask
In other news .. it appears that FT listed the Kangxin Flasks today, but there are definite differences between what they listed, and what I received last week. On FT's red version the threads on the battery slots are anodized however, mine are not. My threads are perfectly clean and free of any paint or anodizing. Also the Vaporflask logo on FT's version is also painted, whereas again mine is not. Also my Flask appears to be better built and assembled all around.
The packaging is also different however, I was informed late last week that Kangxin had planned on changing the packaging, even as I didn't see the new package. I think that Kangxin is separating stock for Foreign Trade, from stock being sold domestically, hence the reason for some of these differences. While it sucks, China has always reserved their premium stock for Foreign Trade, so that is nothing new.
For those who received their Flask from 3fvape, how did yours turn up in terms of threading, etc?
hope it gets here soon! i'm leaving for California soooon.I received mine Saturday and have been too busy being amazed by it. I ordered the black finish model and I've never seen an anodize like this. It is silky smooth to the touch like it has teflon in it. It grips the skin and won't slip out my hand. It wipes up very easily and doesn't show finger prints. Unfortunately, they didn't clean the coating out of the beveled screw holes on top. The screws sit ever so high as not to let any 22mm atomizer sit flush. All my kanger type 17mm atomizers sit flush. I'm currently using a Smok air-flow control to keep from having to adjust the 510 connector screw. It does move with KF v4 tank, but not far. The copper is a plating on the bottom brass battery caps. I scrapped a small square on the inside of one and it was yelllow underneath. The battery doors do line up. The LG HE2 batteries are just long enough so the doors do not fully seat and even sit about a thousandth below the bottom surface as to act like two feet that protects the 'Made in U.S.A.' etching.
I put a straight edge across them and they are even. The inside of the battery tubes has the same finish as the outside. The positive connectors appear to be solid brass buttons. My Panasonic NCR18650PF and Efest 2000 (w/label) batteries fit without problems. The coin grooves are not very deep and using a coin over time may ding up the slot. The buttons don't rattle or pull out. The fire button cap will move if you grasp it with your finger nails. The force needed to press the buttons is just right. I found though if I set the flask button side down without care, the watt setting changes a few points. So, it is convex side up for me. Kanthal Wire mode: W̶i̶t̶h̶ ̶a̶ ̶k̶a̶n̶t̶h̶a̶l̶ ̶k̶a̶n̶g̶e̶r̶ ̶P̶r̶o̶t̶a̶n̶k̶ ̶c̶o̶i̶l̶ ̶a̶t̶ ̶1̶.̶9̶ ̶o̶h̶m̶,̶ ̶i̶t̶ ̶a̶p̶p̶e̶a̶r̶s̶ ̶I̶ ̶a̶m̶ ̶g̶e̶t̶t̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶a̶ ̶p̶r̶e̶-̶h̶e̶a̶t̶ ̶f̶o̶r̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶f̶i̶r̶s̶t̶ ̶s̶e̶c̶o̶n̶d̶.̶ My 2.1 and 2.4 ohm kanthal Kanger coiled Davide tanks elicit a 'Ohms too high' message, the message disappears back into the regular screen and they were still firing normally during this time. The message just means the ohms are to high to use the as the programer thought. The mod still fires at a reduced wattage level and you just have to crank up the watts. LOL The Watt setting round-robins and stops at the end points requiring a second press to continue. It moves through the numbers at a decent pace.
TC mode: I am playing with a Kayfun V4 Tobeco clone. The the coil is made from two twisted strands of 30g nickel, twisting the nickel hardened it quite nicely, 0.12 ohms at 7 twists around a 5/32 drill, Ko Gen Do cotton. The ohms remain static after the initial check. Sometimes the Watts display will remain at the last level shown during firing instead of reverting to the set Wattage. I get very different vapes moving through the settings. The board has a very nice range. I was able to color the flavor when I went higher than 420degF with the cotton wick. I don't know the temp for me yet. I am hanging around the mid 300F range @20 watts.
Final impression: There is a < one second delay before I hear the coil fire from any mode. This is better than my VTR. My VTR takes more than a second to heat up to where I like it. These boards are a tweaker's delight. Settings are held in non-volatile memory with the batteries removed. There aren't different settings for wire mode and TC mode. Adjust watts in one and it changes the other. From total sleep and not suspend mode, I did have to press the fire button for the atomizer ohms to be recognized again. I never saw total sleep mode the entire day I used the flask on Sunday. I saw it Monday morning when I woke up. This flask is far better than my VTR. T̶h̶e̶ ̶p̶r̶e̶-̶h̶e̶a̶t̶ ̶m̶o̶d̶e̶ ̶w̶i̶t̶h̶ ̶k̶a̶n̶t̶h̶a̶l̶ ̶w̶i̶r̶e̶ ̶i̶s̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶d̶i̶e̶ ̶f̶o̶r̶ and I haven't had a dry hit on the nickel build.
I would like to thank Flt Simulation for starting this thread and Tpat591 for pointing out where to buy one of these clones and Nikkita6 for having so much information on the manufacturers.
Edited as the move from a pulse modulated mod to a pure DC signal confused my perception.
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Do you think it would be hard to replace the chip witn a real mDNA 40, and swap the 510 with a fat daddy 510?
Ok forgive my facepalm moment, I forgot that I could use this with a single 650
... I don't have much time for an in depth feedback because Mother Nature is kicking our butts with snow, but HOT DAYUM! The TP is working beautifully, I am so friggin impressed right now, and keep in mind that I did review the Vapor Shark rDNA. .23 ni200 build, set TP limit to 450F, 14.5W and the vape is fantastic! I put the build in my Robbot Tech KF4 clone and the TP is working flawelessly so far, and remaining well beneath the limit. With a about a 8sec drag I am not getting over 400F, so the TP is not having to kick in and the vape is great.
Keep in mind that if you fire the coil dry with no wick or juice you will hit the TP almost immediately, it kicks in within 2secs .. but one you are wicked and saturated that all changes and depending on your TP setting you will be able to vape freely without the TP kicking in .. but the actual temperature protection 100% works.
And mine fires immediately from sleep with no delay.
Not sure about one's supplied to 3Fvape or the one's that showed up on FT which look a bit janky like B stock. I know that there were a few revisions made, so there is different stock being supplied to different vendors. Will update more after I shovel snow
And I saw that Crunchy2k also left some detailed feedback too It will be a bit challenging with the hot glue mess inside .. if you are going this route then I would highly suggest getting the SXK V2 flask instead which uses a craddle for their chip, no hot glue, an already has a great FDV style 510 connection and floating pin .. Changing the Kangxin chip will be A LOT more work.
It will be a bit challenging with the hot glue mess inside .. if you are going this route then I would highly suggest getting the SXK V2 flask instead which uses a craddle for their chip, no hot glue, an already has a great FDV style 510 connection and floating pin .. Changing the Kangxin chip will be A LOT more work.
Ok. Thank`s a lot. I hope, if I deside to go for a clone, that it works like you described in the post above. I have never solded before. Only if the chip was bad, then I would try to replace it. But I think I would be much better of, using what they has installed
Ok forgive my facepalm moment, I forgot that I could use this with a single 650
.23 ni200 build, set TP limit to 450F, 14.5W and the vape is fantastic! I put the build in my Robbot Tech KF4 clone and the TP is working flawelessly so far, and remaining well beneath the limit. With a about a 8sec drag I am not getting over 400F, so the TP is not having to kick in and the vape is great.
Keep in mind that if you fire the coil dry with no wick or juice you will hit the TP almost immediately, it kicks in within 2secs .. but one you are wicked and saturated that all changes and depending on your TP setting you will be able to vape freely without the TP kicking in .. but the actual temperature protection 100% works.
And mine fires immediately from sleep with no delay.
Will update more after I shovel snow
Thanks for the Review! I'm in Jersey & heading out to Shovel as Well!
I received mine Saturday and have been too busy being amazed by it. I ordered the black finish model and I've never seen an anodize like this. It is silky smooth to the touch like it has teflon in it. It wipes up very easily and doesn't show finger prints. Unfortunately, they didn't clean the coating out of the beveled screw holes on top. The screws sit ever so high as not to let any 22mm atomizer sit flush. All my kanger type 17mm atomizers sit flush. I'm currently using a Smok air-flow control to keep from having to adjust the 510 connector screw. It does move with KF v4 tank, but not far. The copper is a plating on the bottom brass battery caps. I scrapped a small square on the inside of one and it was yelllow underneath. The battery doors do line up. The LG HE2 batteries are just long enough so the doors do not fully seat and even sit about a thousandth below the bottom surface as to act like two feet that protects the 'Made in U.S.A.' etching.
Kanthal Wire mode: With a kanthal kanger Protank coil at 1.9 ohm, it appears I am getting a pre-heat for the first second. My 2.1 and 2.4 ohm kanthal Kanger coiled Davide tanks elicit a 'Ohms too high' message, the message disappears back into the regular screen and they were still firing normally during this time. I am beginning to think the message just means the ohms are to high to use the pre-heat function. The Watt setting round-robins and stops at the end points requiring a second press to continue. It moves through the numbers at a decent pace.
TC mode: I am playing with a Kayfun V4 Tobeco clone. The the coil is made from two twisted strands of 30g nickel, twisting the nickel hardened it quite nicely, 0.12 ohms at 7 twists around a 5/32 drill, Ko Gen Do cotton. The ohms remain static after the initial check. Sometimes the Watts display will remain at the last level shown during firing instead of reverting to the set Wattage. I get very different vapes moving through the settings. The board has a very nice range. I was able to color the flavor when I went higher than 420degF with the cotton wick. I don't know the temp for me yet. I am hanging around the mid 300F range @20 watts.
Final impression: There is a < one second delay before I hear the coil fire from any mode. This is better than my VTR. My VTR takes more than a second to heat up to where I like it. These boards are a tweaker's delight. Settings are held in non-volatile memory with the batteries removed. There aren't different settings for wire mode and TC mode. Adjust watts in one and it changes the other. From total sleep and not suspend mode, I did have to press the fire button for the atomizer ohms to be recognized again. I never saw total sleep mode the entire day I used the flask on Sunday. I saw it Monday morning when I woke up. This flask is far better than my VTR. The pre-heat mode with kanthal wire is to die for and I haven't had a dry hit on the nickel build.
I would like to thank Flt Simulation for starting this thread and Tpat591 for pointing out where to buy one of these clones and Nikkita6 for having so much information on the manufacturers.
Great Job - Very Promising. Glad it is working out for You! Envious!
Thanks for your Time & Review!
I received mine Saturday and have been too busy being amazed by it. I ordered the black finish model and I've never seen an anodize like this. It is silky smooth to the touch like it has teflon in it. It wipes up very easily and doesn't show finger prints. Unfortunately, they didn't clean the coating out of the beveled screw holes on top. The screws sit ever so high as not to let any 22mm atomizer sit flush. All my kanger type 17mm atomizers sit flush. I'm currently using a Smok air-flow control to keep from having to adjust the 510 connector screw. It does move with KF v4 tank, but not far. The copper is a plating on the bottom brass battery caps. I scrapped a small square on the inside of one and it was yelllow underneath. The battery doors do line up. The LG HE2 batteries are just long enough so the doors do not fully seat and even sit about a thousandth below the bottom surface as to act like two feet that protects the 'Made in U.S.A.' etching.
Good to hear! Thanks for the review!
I checked the this forums rules and it looks okay to send you directly to the pictures posted and the discussion of the what they have experienced. The buttons of Robby's Kangxin are hot glued. From what I have seen on hobbyist youtube videos is that hot glue is easily removed with denatured alcohol. Hanna Modz was doing this at one time..LOL The problem with using the Evolv board is the trays are built to size of the clone board. But hot glue maybe able to help there.
Evolve DNA 40 clone temp control - first look
| ALL ABOUT E-CIGARETTES UKI bought an Evolv DNA40 board with the idea the clone board was going to suck, but it works quite well. I will use the Evolv board somewhere or just pass it on. A YiHI board with all the features of the SX350 plus temperature control is very attractive to me now. In the meantime, checkout some of the 3D printed cases,
from VapeDroid and another designer on Shapeways.
Design 3 - 18650 - Gripper Body by jonniemac on Shapeways
VapeDroid on Shapeways
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