VaporShark rDNA

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caged

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This is one mod that has a huge problem with leaky atty's. The channels drain juice straight into the electronics compartment. Just seal around the top with silicone and it will prevent this. Just charge via usb or wireless and you don't have to open any of the doors.

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Charging is not always going to be an option. One of the reason I wanted this mod was because the battery is easy to change. juice leaks will happen, and if I need to seal the compartment to prevent damage from leaks I don't think this is the mod for me. This is aggravating.
 

xcrazydx

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Charging is not always going to be an option. One of the reason I wanted this mod was because the battery is easy to change. Juice leaks will happen, and if I need to seal the compartment to prevent damage from leaks I don't think this is the mod for me. This is aggravating.

Just seal the side with the electronics. That's where the channels drain into and that's what has fried people's DNA boards. It's not 100% fix but it's better than nothing

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bkim1

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Just ordered my own rDNA40 with the Cyber Monday deal. Can't wait since its my first regulated mod! Anyone have any tips for a good build using 28 gauge Ni200 wire? Primarily going to be using a dripper and building dual coils. Also, I saw some posts earlier about not dry burning the coils. Do you have to get the wraps close together from the start?

The spot in the middle just leads into the battery section which is accessible whenever you take the battery cover off. You could probably slip a small bit of 3M mounting tape inside to seal that tiny spot. Some epoxy glue might work as well.

The spot that would leak into the chip section is on the corner. The paint stays put there with no problems.

My Tilemahos that I normally use on my rDNA doesn't leak but I've accidentally spilled some juice a couple of times. The drops of paint did their job.

Peraspera what kind of paint did you use? Just normal black paint?
 

xcrazydx

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Just ordered my own rDNA40 with the Cyber Monday deal. Can't wait since its my first regulated mod! Anyone have any tips for a good build using 28 gauge Ni200 wire? Primarily going to be using a dripper and building dual coils. Also, I saw some posts earlier about not dry burning the coils. Do you have to get the wraps close together from the start?



Peraspera what kind of paint did you use? Just normal black paint?

Use silicone

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peraspera

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My opinion only but I don't think loss of ductility matters at all for nickel used in atty coils. I've treated it like kanthal and had no problems, having said that I'm winding only spaced coils now and can dry burn nicely at 600 F temperature limited so it's a non-issue either way for me. Ni200 sees use in high pressure steam, chemical and nuclear applications, there ductility loss could be catastrophic.

Loss of ductility may not be an important factor but carbon deposits weeping out on the wire would not be desirable, particularly when there is no tempering benefit from heating the wire that much.

I seriously doubt that Ni200 is used in any application commercially where it would be exposed to temperatures above the 600°F point where it would be stable. Not all parts in a nuclear power plant are exposed to high heat.
 

jsx821

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The spot in the middle just leads into the battery section which is accessible whenever you take the battery cover off. You could probably slip a small bit of 3M mounting tape inside to seal that tiny spot. Some epoxy glue might work as well.

The spot that would leak into the chip section is on the corner. The paint stays put there with no problems.

My Tilemahos that I normally use on my rDNA doesn't leak but I've accidentally spilled some juice a couple of times. The drops of paint did their job.

So every time you remove the battery cover- you have to redo your paint drops? Sounds like a pain.
 

buffalofloyd

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Heeheeheeheee. This came in today

f56df9689a64280faf678b0ab8ea5c18.jpg


Before:
2a84f6c23cf82086ee597eab08a36663.jpg


After
c4cac213ff67781caa183eada9e6c16a.jpg


Perfect since I never use the usb charger heehee


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Thought about getting some of these myself but I decided against it, glad to see someone went for it though :)
 

peraspera

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So every time you remove the battery cover- you have to redo your paint drops? Sounds like a pain.

I mainly use wireless charging so changing the battery isn't an issue for me. You only would have to redo the least important drop that goes into the accessible battery section. Juice would have to sit on that spot for a good long time to get far enough in to do any mischief.
 

jsx821

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I would imagine the silicon method being the best; it'll be truly guarded against leaks, plus you can easily scrape it off in the event that you need to send it back for repair and get rid of any signs of tampering.


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Any pics of this method?
 

xcrazydx

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I can't remember who posted it or where it is :/ sorry. I think it was xcrazydx but I could also be pulling things outta my butthole.


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Lol, it was me but I didn't take any pics.

It doesn't really need any though. Just open the door and put silicone around the edge. Close door, put in screws and wipe off the excess that squeezes out.

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TheKiwi

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Lol, it was me but I didn't take any pics.

It doesn't really need any though. Just open the door and put silicone around the edge. Close door, put in screws and wipe off the excess that squeezes out.

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Someone else also posted a picture. I'm positive! Hahaha (unless I completely imagined it). I remember it was a slightly messy black strip. I'm gonna find it tmr. Growls.


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xcrazydx

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Someone else also posted a picture. I'm positive! Hahaha (unless I completely imagined it). I remember it was a slightly messy black strip. I'm gonna find it tmr. Growls.


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Lol, I must of missed that.

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jsx821

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Lol, it was me but I didn't take any pics.

It doesn't really need any though. Just open the door and put silicone around the edge. Close door, put in screws and wipe off the excess that squeezes out.

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I just went all the way back to Oct 20.. Now I found out u didnt post any :/
 
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