VaporShark rDNA

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ScandaLeX

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Heeheeheeheee. This came in today

f56df9689a64280faf678b0ab8ea5c18.jpg


Before:
2a84f6c23cf82086ee597eab08a36663.jpg


After
c4cac213ff67781caa183eada9e6c16a.jpg


Perfect since I never use the usb charger heehee


Burping out loud using Tapatalk

Kiwi send me the link to these please. i know it was posted before but I forgot to bookmark it.
 

ScandaLeX

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This is one mod that has a huge problem with leaky atty's. The channels drain juice straight into the electronics compartment. Just seal around the top with silicone and it will prevent this. Just charge via usb or wireless and you don't have to open any of the doors.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

I've seen this mentioned before but for some of us we need a lil hand holding......got a link for the silicone?
 

ScandaLeX

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Lol, it was me but I didn't take any pics.

It doesn't really need any though. Just open the door and put silicone around the edge. Close door, put in screws and wipe off the excess that squeezes out.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
I still needs pics.......no seriously.............I do. :p
 

Fir3b1rd

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Thinking about canceling my order. I really want the ability to swap out my batteries. Sigh.
, ive had a dna30 since before he release and was one of the first dna40 recipients. I never even plug the thing i have a wireless charger in my truck counsole, on my desk at work, my night stand and next to the potty. 7$ from egay

I know excessive but i read a lot. And making the point. Not sure how you vape, but at 28w, and 520° the 0.11Ω build in my plum veil would probably make a cloud chaser happy.
Also, i closed mine off with a thin piece of tape on the inside, while the leaking is possible, its nowhere near probable, to cause an issue. But with the tape rolled in i can still have easy access to the back door without having to play with it.
Im 99.765% certain that a design change would have been done when they added the wittle magnet to the back door.-no way to make that sound masculine, its like eating a banana, even Schwarzenegger would have to be questioned.

what it is!?
 
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jsx821

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, ive had a dna30 since before he release and was one of the first dna40 recipients. I never even plug the thing i have a wireless charger in my truck counsole, on my desk at work, my night stand and next to the potty.

I know excessive but i read a lot. And making the point. Not sure how you vape, but at 28w, and 520° the 0.11Ω build in my plum veil would probably make a cloud chaser happy.
Also, i closed mine off with a thin piece of tape on the inside, while the leaking is possible, its nowhere near probable, to cause an issue. But with the tape rolled in i can still have easy access to the back door without having to play with it.
Im 99.765% certain that a design change would have been done when they added the wittle magnet to the back door.-no way to make that sound masculine, its like eating a banana, even Schwarzenegger would have to be questioned.

what it is!?

Well I already have a hana modz dna 40. I purchased it 2 weeks it was released which was around early-mid Oct. I vape 30W-40W regularly at .10-.15. But I vape a lot... (stressful job). So you're saying you keep 5 wireless chargers around to justify the issue? That's like $100 worth of wireless chargers... I rather not invest that much $ when I have already invested in a crap load of batteries and chargers... I don't really care for the usb/wireless charging since I don't work at a desk and am always on my feet..

This is the first time I've even heard of the juice channels causing this issue on the rdna40. Maybe I should have done a little more research before I bought my shark today... but $150 is just too good to pass up.
 

Woofer

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Loss of ductility may not be an important factor but carbon deposits weeping out on the wire would not be desirable, particularly when there is no tempering benefit from heating the wire that much.

I seriously doubt that Ni200 is used in any application commercially where it would be exposed to temperatures above the 600°F point where it would be stable. Not all parts in a nuclear power plant are exposed to high heat.

As I said I don't have a horse in this race. :)

Ductility refers to a materials ability to deform under stress, many have expressed difficult with Ni coils being to soft (ductile) so perhaps they may find improvements through loss of ductility. Ni 200 spec allows for a maximum of 0.15% carbon, not very much total. I noticed no difference in taste or performance with coils that were torched and dry burned. The thermal conductivity of carbon is much lower then nickel so perhaps there is a measurable reduction in coil efficiency. If so, it was not noticeable to me in actual use.

Tempering increases ductility.

I agree with your last point since

http://www.megamex.com/nickel_200_201.htm said:
Nickel 200 & 201 are approved for construction of pressure vessels and components under ASME Boiler and Pressure Vessel Code Section VIII, Division 1. Nickel 200 is approved for service up to 600° F while Nickel 201 is approved for service up to 1230° F. Melting point is 2615-2635° F.

I found this interesting though I have no idea if this applies to the wire we are using and am not interested enough to ask Temco what percentage of carbon their alloy contains. Ni 201 is 0.02 max.

Typically, the elemental restrictions of both, nickel 200 and nickel 201, are combined into one, dual-certified chemistry resulting in a single alloy with the desired characteristics of both alloys, Nickel 200/201.

I suggest everyone do what they are comfortable with, I'm just saying I have seen nothing to convince me there is any problem torching or dry burning Ni coils.
I've done it, I didn't notice a problem, it is not necessary for me at this time.
 

Fir3b1rd

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Well I already have a hana modz dna 40. I purchased it 2 weeks it was released which was around early-mid Oct. I vape 30W-40W regularly at .10-.15. But I vape a lot... (stressful job). So you're saying you keep 5 wireless chargers around to justify the issue? That's like $100 worth of wireless chargers... I rather not invest that much $ when I have already invested in a crap load of batteries and chargers... I don't really care for the usb/wireless charging since I don't work at a desk and am always on my feet..

This is the first time I've even heard of the juice channels causing this issue on the rdna40. Maybe I should have done a little more research before I bought my shark today... but $150 is just too good to pass up.
Honestly ive not heard it being a huge issue. But i just rolled the tape on the inside so that its not seen.
-And i was being sarcastic about the one next to the cammode, was meant as a joke.
But i do have 3 of them at 7$ a piece from ebay, im not that smart; but i can justify a 21$ expense for convenience. Thought the one in the truck was nerd cool anyway. And the one in the office alone has me leaving work with almost a full charge. But in almost a year that ive had a mod built like this and as careless as i am, the tape has served me well.
If i dont cjarge during the day i get 10-12hours on an 18650, so you may need one spare? Possibly 2?
The tape starts on the inside and roll it over the edge, ita jusrt thuck enough to fill that tiny little gap.

what it is!?
 
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MrPlink

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Well I cracked at the Cybermonday sale and jumped on the wagon.

Still feels a bit risky, but what the hey I've got other mods


The gun community doesn't appreciate them being called "assault rifles". That was a nasty term given to them by the media to scare uninformed civilians.

You should also consider a shotgun that holds more than 2 shells if that is going to be a defensive weapon.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Check your terms. You have assault rifle confused with assault weapon. They are not interchangeable.

Assault Rifle is loosely translated from the WWII German sturmgewehr aka STG or MP44 etc etc. Hitler himself coined the term. In practice it refers to a rifle or carbine sized firearm that fires an intermediate sized cartridge (that means smaller than a rifle round but larger than a pistol round) that is (this is the big one) capable of select fire. Select fire meaning the operator can switch between semi automatic or full auto/burst.

Most modern and contemporary military rifles conform to this definition including the M16 and Ak47.

Assault Weapon by comparison was an artificial term developed by politicians that typically appears to be an assault rifle but is usually just semi automatic. Of course the term is also thrown around very loosely by the media and politicians to mean anything that looks scary. This term is largely considered offensive in the firearms community because of its negative political connotations, in addition to it largely referring to aesthetic features of a firearm, not functional ones.

Assault Weapon may have a legal definition depending on which state you live in. It has not had any Federal meaning for about a decade now.

Sincerely,
A long time gun collector, builder, advocate and otherwise over educated and a slightly liberal leaning person.
 

jsx821

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Honestly ive not heard it being a huge issue. But i just rolled the tape on the inside so that its not seen and it makes bot big deal.
-And i was being sarcastic about the one next to the cammode, was meant as a joke.
But i do have 3 of them at 7$ a piece from ebay, im not that smart; but i can justify a 21$ expense for convenience. Thought the one in the truck was nerd cool anyway. And the one in the office alone has me leaving work with almost a full charge. But in almost a year that ive had a mod built like this and as careless as i am, the tape has served me well.
If i dont cjarge during the day i get 10-12hours on an 18650, so you may need one spare? Possibly 2?
The tape starts on the inside and roll it over the edge, ita jusrt thuck enough to fill that tiny little gap.

what it is!?

Fair enough. Thanks for the response :)
If you have time can you post some pics of your tape band-aid?
I have never seen the inside of an rdna40 and kind of want clarification.
Also, how are those 7$ eBay chargers holding up? And which one did you exactly buy?

I think there should be a separate thread/sticky for different methods to fix the leakage on this device!
 

Fir3b1rd

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Fair enough. Thanks for the response :)
If you have time can you post some pics of your tape band-aid?
I have never seen the inside of an rdna40 and kind of want clarification.
Also, how are those 7$ eBay chargers holding up? And which one did you exactly buy?

I think there should be a separate thread/sticky for different methods to fix the leakage on this device!
I honestly think that too much is being made about the leakage, its not like a typical flooding or leaky dripper is going to be a death sentance. I understand you being concerned; but before i knew the potential existed, i had a taifun completely relieve itself of all 5 ml of juice overnight and that mod is still just fine.
Now after i was informed, i did do the "bandaid". Im all about prevention of issues, and scandal and kiwi can tell you it doesnt take much to send me into freak out mode, so if it was a real issue, i would be in some other dna thread.
post some pics tomorrow, no offense but homie isn't getting out of bed after the day I've had. Plus i have to leave for work in 4 hours.
But think window seal, weather gasket, that's kind of what i did. When you see it you'll know what i mean, but that gap is so small light wont even come through.

what it is!?
 
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peraspera

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My battery went from 50% to 0% suddenly. Hope that doesn't mean my chip is bad...

I'm using Temperature Control at 410F and my supplied battery hasn't budged since yesterday - amazing life so far. Interesting to see what this type of regulation does to the run time - I imagine it stretches quite a bit. Very impressed so far...

You have to trick the battery meter to show the correct reading in temperature protection mode according to this post on Vapor Shark's Facebook page.

Vapor Shark Hello Josh, The metering happens in real time only when the device is firing. If you are using a nickel coil and temperature control, you will notice that the meter will behave a bit erratically. Here is why, it is giving you a forecast of remaining battery life based on the last wattage level the device was outputting. Let's say you have a ni200 coil set to 420 degrees and 35 watts. At the beginning of the draw you will likely be close to 35 watts but as the coil comes to temperature the wattage level will be reduced to let's say 6 watts. When you let off the fire button the last wattage output was 6 watts and the battery meter is reflecting a remaining battery life forecast for 6 watts not the 35 watts. That is why, after 16 hours of use, you're still seeing a full battery. You can get an accurate reading if you just let the Wattage spike for the first second and then looking at the meter.
 
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