did that guy who sanded down his vaporshark ever finish it? would like to see some fiinished product after he got through stripping the paint.
VaporShark rDNA
- Thread starter ClintS
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VS-dna40 ~ now with 18650 Battery 
Worth also noticing that the dinky li'l VS-dna 40W version is now packed with a full sized 18650 battery (35A LG 2500mAh) inside. And the ultra portable - front pocket friendly size nearly remains the same (under a mm variance)!
*VS-DNA30: Size at 2.90 x 1.40 x 0.80 Inches
*VS-DNA40: Size at 2.94 x 1.50 x 0.88 Inches
Vapor Shark DNA (40W Version) + FREE 30 ML E-Liquid - DNA - Accessories
Ps: As regarding the screen size, it has been confirmed that the older (small screen) DNA40 boards are still being used till stocks last, whereafter they'd be packed with the newer 'big screen' boards.
Worth also noticing that the dinky li'l VS-dna 40W version is now packed with a full sized 18650 battery (35A LG 2500mAh) inside. And the ultra portable - front pocket friendly size nearly remains the same (under a mm variance)!
*VS-DNA30: Size at 2.90 x 1.40 x 0.80 Inches
*VS-DNA40: Size at 2.94 x 1.50 x 0.88 Inches
Vapor Shark DNA (40W Version) + FREE 30 ML E-Liquid - DNA - Accessories
Ps: As regarding the screen size, it has been confirmed that the older (small screen) DNA40 boards are still being used till stocks last, whereafter they'd be packed with the newer 'big screen' boards.
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So I pulled the battery out for 4 days to see if it made a difference with the screen. The scrambled screen stopped but the screen blackout when pressing the button still happened for the first 2 days. The screen even completely blacked out until it went into sleep mode one time. It was good on day 3. No screen issues, that I noticed at least. On day 4 it popped up with yet another new one for me. Two different times while pressing the fire button the temp would go away until I let go of the button. Still had the "F", just no numbers showing what the temp was. All other displayed info was working and changing as it should. I went back to charging it using the USB last night to see if the scrambled screen comes back.
I don't know how circuit boards work. But if the problem with scrambling comes back could it be an issue with constant power from the battery causing problems? The USB could generate heat but it fully charges a battery in 1 1/2 hrs and I'm only charging a half battery. Then it has hours to cool before I wake up and start using it. Though I'm returning it for exchange real soon anyway, the curious side of me wants to understand why this is happening.
I don't know how circuit boards work. But if the problem with scrambling comes back could it be an issue with constant power from the battery causing problems? The USB could generate heat but it fully charges a battery in 1 1/2 hrs and I'm only charging a half battery. Then it has hours to cool before I wake up and start using it. Though I'm returning it for exchange real soon anyway, the curious side of me wants to understand why this is happening.
So does anyone here have the new VS dna 40? Any screen issues? Anyone heard of screen issues? I'm thinking that I'm liking the TP and feel of the VS so much I want a backup mod. It would be nice to have an even smaller one for weekends or going out.
one of the images on the website had it showing the large screen. i called yesterday to confirm and the guy on the phone was surprised, looked at the site and said that mustve been uploaded by mistake. shortly after i hung up with him, the image dissapeared! although, sounds like qorax got a little more info.
Alxx, just get an RMA from VS and send it back! You yourself are not going to be able to magically make it stop! 10 days and you get a new one!!
Got the VS rdna40 in the mail yesterday. Born date 2-10-15. I noticed the scrambled screen issue this morning. Some of the numbers were still readable and there was a ticker tape effect - everything was moving to the right ( maybe it was to the left?). The screen timed out and when I fired again the problem was gone. I have not used the usb charger at all. Just switching out batteries.
No other big problems yet. If this is the extent of the problem, it's no big deal. I hope it doesn't get worse, though.
No other big problems yet. If this is the extent of the problem, it's no big deal. I hope it doesn't get worse, though.
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Yes, I could use a skin but one of the major appeal of the device for me was the size and ease of swapping batteries. A skin would defeat this and and charging through USB is not an option for me.
Exactly my thoughts. I too didn't grab the S/Skins and prefer switching batts to USB charging.
The rubberized coating feels very nice btw ~ a li'l bit of care and it should last long/er than the plain paint jobs.
In their defense, the shark skins do get much easier to take off after they've been used a bit. But I do understand your issue...I primarily charge via USB to avoid taking the skin off.
This is the same thing mine did, so far it has only happened once. At this point can they even fix the issue? You think if they could these new ones wouldn't have it to begin with.
I just got mine yesterday, 2-10-15 build date. I'm having issues with the ohm meter. It's off by quite a lot. Tested a couple on my ohm meter and on the vaporshark, the the VS is reading much higher. My nickel subtank coil is reading around 0.3 - 0.37 on my VS, but it reads .16 on my meter. The coil is supposed to be 0.2, so the meter is pretty close. And a kanthal atlantis coil is reading 0.57 on my meter, and reading 0.93 on my VS. And that coil is supposed to be 0.5 ohm.
Not sure what to do now. The broken ohm meter is fluctuating quite a bit too, and today it was asking me if it was the same coil between each vape.
Not sure what to do now. The broken ohm meter is fluctuating quite a bit too, and today it was asking me if it was the same coil between each vape.
If the ohm reading is off by that much, the temperature control function is absolutely worthless. It will not work. I would switch to kanthal until you can figure it out. It sounds like a connectivity issue in the VS. Try to fix it yourself or RMA.
That would indicate to me the the shark has gone out of TL mode. Doggy connection suspected.
Just FYI the screen issue does not affect the actual machine function.
These are all classic symptoms of a doggy connection.
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I've had mine for a few days and I've had the screen glitch once...it was like the bottom half of the screen was cut out and scrambled...
I unlocked the buttons changed the watts down one and it went back to normal
I unlocked the buttons changed the watts down one and it went back to normal
Is the resistance supposed to jump all around while firing it? When firing my Atlantis with the 0.5 ohm coil, it jumps from 0.7 to 1.3 ohms really quickly.
Thanks, that is what I'm going to do. Just not right away. Have already done that once. The ffirst one I only had for a few days. Then sent it back for 10 days. This one also started glitching the first day. So I want to use it for a couple of weeks before I send it back and I'm with out it again. Otherwise in almost a months time I'll have only had a VS for a week.
They have a 4 month warranty so there is no rush. In the mean time I'm gonna play around with trying different things. Hurts nothing, just my nature to play around wih broken things. Besides I want some time to pass and hopefully get into a better batch of boards before I have to send a third one back. Nothing against VS. The issue is with Evolve since it is happening with other brands also. VS has been handling this very well and I'm sure this will all be resolved soon enough. As I've said before that's why I'll send it back for a exchange and not a refund. I'm actually considering getting a VS DNA 40 for its smaller size (and TP) when needed. Also with two if one goes back I'll still have the other. I need a TP capable back up.
My VS was doing the same thing, asking if the coil was the same every time I hit the fire button, with a kanthal build. The problem was the connection, one of my screws was loose which was making the board think I was disconnecting and reconnecting a coil (atty). The DNA40 doesn't have any known issues with reading coils, every time I see anyone complain about it, it has been some kind of connection issue.
As for your nickel coils, be SURE you are not asking the board to get it's initial reading while the coil is any warmer than room temperature. If the coil is warm your reading will be higher.
I'm using the prebuilt Atlantis and Subtank coils. They shouldn't have any connection issues. The connection issue must be within the device.
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