oh man newport, I totally feel your pain. I hope everything goes well. I will say that although I hate dealing with vaporshark, I love their form factor and weight. I will be at odds when they release the new model with the evolv dna 40 with wireless charging...........
VaporShark rDNA
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I received my rDNA today, and have a few questions for you guys. I am new to rdas and this is my first 30w device, so I am not really sure what I should be expecting. This is what I've got going: .7 ohm dual coil setup on an Odin with 26g kanthal. My friend says that he runs his at around 20w, but to me it seems like mine takes too long for the coils to heat up. Again, I have very little experience, but I have used a friends mech that lit up the coils super quick. I understand that it will be different with a regulated device, but what do you guys run your rdas at on your vs?
Should I go to 28g, or just expect to take a 5+ second draw? When I bump it up to 30w it does great, but I keep hearing people talk about hanging around 17 or 20w with an rda, and if I can run it lower and get what I am looking for I would rather do that.
Would it make a difference if I built a little higher resistance coil?
Sorry for the non-linear questioning, and sorry again if this would be best posted under a different thread.
Also, what does the ohm reading blink sometimes?
Should I go to 28g, or just expect to take a 5+ second draw? When I bump it up to 30w it does great, but I keep hearing people talk about hanging around 17 or 20w with an rda, and if I can run it lower and get what I am looking for I would rather do that.
Would it make a difference if I built a little higher resistance coil?
Sorry for the non-linear questioning, and sorry again if this would be best posted under a different thread.
Also, what does the ohm reading blink sometimes?
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I run my Magma 28 gauge kanthal .8 ohm dual at 25-30 watts.Crank yours up and see how it is.
I see you already did. Yep, I run it high and it works the best.
Only issue is battery life.
Ohm blinking is just when it is unregulated. No big deal.
Ohm readout flashing. Bottom of this page.
http://www.vaporshark.com/dna-help-guide
I see you already did. Yep, I run it high and it works the best.
Only issue is battery life.
Ohm blinking is just when it is unregulated. No big deal.
Ohm readout flashing. Bottom of this page.
http://www.vaporshark.com/dna-help-guide
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Anyone have a slanted DNA screen? Or any paint issues? Wonder if I am being overly critical of this device, but didn't have anything like this with my Provari and basically the same price point. My VS DNA 30 had a perfect screen and paint job. Wondering if others have had these things making this normal.
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I have a 454 with 28g quad coils at a 0.5 and 24W it heats up quick but is a slightly cool vape which I like.
I run my dual coil attys (tobh and Magma) at a 28g ribbon set at a 0.7 and my veritas with a 0.6-0.8 twisted single coil. Those all run fine St 20-22w.
I would suggest dropping your resistance or switching to 28. I use the ribbon when the layout offers the space for a longer coil, let's me get more surface area while keeping the resistance low.
Their is another screw inside an insulator underneath the pin screw. Your fix:
Strip down the unit
Remove the post/pin/adjustment screw
You will see another screw which is inside an insulator
Hold the block in place with needle nose pliers firmly. Either end which has lots of meat
THEN with your other hand tighten this screw which sits inside an insulator while holding the block in place with your needle nose. TIGHT!
Then install the post/pin screw and it will have plenty of adjustment without moving the block
As a general policy when I strip and clean /lol I will do this or at least see if I can wiggle the block with my fingers
HTH
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Their is another screw inside an insulator underneath the pin screw. Your fix:
Strip down the unit
Remove the post/pin/adjustment screw
You will see another screw which is inside an insulator
Hold the block in place with needle nose pliers firmly. Either end which has lots of meat
THEN with your other hand tighten this screw which sits inside an insulator. TIGHT!
Then install the post/pin screw and it will have plenty of adjustment without moving the block
As a general policy when I strip and clean /lol I will do this or at least see if I can wiggle the deck with my fingers
HTH
There is no screw like that on an authentic. That is a Russian design and other clones. It's one screw and that's it. To fix it you can either buy new insulators or if that still isn't enough you can wrap floss on the post screw just below the positive insulator.
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From what I've been told, it sucks. I didn't want an external plug hanging out the side with a board and cable shoved under the shark skin. I would wait on the built in model if I was you.
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Thanks. My bad. Forgot authentic vs my r91s. Never had the problem on my authentics.
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Sucks huh. That's too bad. Would be super convenient to just drop it on and walk away. If they do come out with a built in one, now that would be cool. Does anybody else have the experience on owning one?
They have already confirmed the next one will have built in wireless. I haven't heard any happy reports on the external set up. Btw if you are using tank set ups the battery actually lasts a long time. RDAs obviously blow through it quicker at higher wattage,but you can swap the batteries.
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Yeah I'll be using both. A nautilus and rda. I wonder how long until this new version comes out. I'm moving from to sell the Provari mini so I don't know how long I should wait.
I have the dna30 with a wireless setup. My LG wcp-300 charger pad gets the entire casing fairly warm. At least 10 deg. over ambient. Additional heat and battery charging is probably not the best thing we can do. I like to give it some time to rest and cool between bumping the charge. I do not trust it at all on the charger overnight. I've had one battery failure due to dozing off on a no name charger. Not sure of the exact cause. Another issue is that the usb connector to ribbon joint is fairly weak on the receiver. Not good if you want to alternate with a charge cable. Definitely not rugged, but it's holding up in my pocket for a few weeks. It is convenient if you have a workshop table or desk that you're constantly with. I leave it in a steel drawer while charging at work.
I will throw in my thoughts on the "R" wireless setup if I manage to get one here.
I've seen very little; but the rumor is the new one should be out around Christmas. Probably to coincide with the official p3 release. If I were looking to sell a provari to buy a Vs; I would consider selling it sooner rather than later. Once the p3 comes out there may be a bunch Of people selling the 2.5s.
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I have a question based upon this. My MVP2 says volts between 3.0 and 6.0, as are many others. I checked your ohms and watts on a calculator and I got 1.2 volts. How do you go so low on volts? I am in the process of looking for a new mod.
Thanks for helping
Neither, I am not getting a connection between the 2. Everything else I screwed on works, just not the kayfun.
Sounds like the insulators need replaced on the kayfun. They get compressed over time. Have you ever taken it apart and looked? Do you have the insulators to replace them?
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No, haven't taken it apart nor do I have replacement insulators. I have had it for about 8 months and used it a lot when I first got it for about 3 or 4 months but lately it's been RDA's. Now that I have the rdna, I wanted to use the kayfun for day use.
It's a really quick and inexpensive fix...
Insulators are Under 5 bucks or you can get a rebuild kit for 8.50.
http://www.kidneypuncher.com/kayfun-deck-insulators-5-pack/
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