No they are not. It's easy to swap s 30 for a 40 I'd post the schematic but it's a little early in the am for me. I believe there is one or two wires that are different. No prob.It would be difficult since the boards are laid out differently...
No they are not. It's easy to swap s 30 for a 40 I'd post the schematic but it's a little early in the am for me. I believe there is one or two wires that are different. No prob.It would be difficult since the boards are laid out differently...
No they are not. It's easy to swap s 30 for a 40 I'd post the schematic but it's a little early in the am for me. I believe there is one or two wires that are different. No prob.
I received my rDNA 30 and my DNA 30 from Vaporshark today. After reading about them not shipping with the vtc4 battery I opted to also order a sony vtc4 which was available for sale on their website.
Well...the rDNA 30 did in fact have the panasonic NCR18650B installed in the device...I open the generic white box that should contain the Sony vtc4 and what do I find...another damn Panasonic NCR18650B ...? The invoice clearly states Sony US18650vtc4.
I don't know if I should complain to Vaporshark or not. I don't do any sub-ohm vaping and will probably never get over 10 watts with a 1.8-2.0 ohm coil on a nautilus on this thing (using those batteries). I did buy a few of the xtar 2100 mah 30 amp batteries from RTD and that is what I'm currently using in it. I understand the xtar is basically a vtc4.
Well my rdna just died... I guess some juice leaked inside and I heard some hissing then the button got hot... Then no power... Removed the two screws and found a mess of juice inside..Guess it's time to send it in...
Luckily, it's just the DNA board that can go wrong in this mod, and it's an easy fix to change it out.Just a crying shame vapor shark has no quality control/customer service. I absolutely love my rdna but dread the fact that if anything goes wrong, it's a lost cause.
Has anyone linked this thread to them?
If you guys haven't noticed, the channels cut into the top drain directly into the compartment that houses the board. No matter how careful you are, juice will eventually make its way in there unless you take some steps to prevent it.
Take the two Allen screws out and remove the cover, clean it with alcohol, run a bead of silicone around the lip and then replace the cover. Tighten the screws and then wipe the excess silicone off. Let it dry and no more juice will get in. The cover can still be removed later if need be. But if you open it you'll need to clean and apply silicone again. This doesn't permanently lock the cover on.
When I opened mine there was juice in there and I'm very careful with it and hardly ever use it. The shark skin also traps juice and squeezes it into the seams. Do yourself a favor and stop this leaking.
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How about some pics![]()
Is it the 28th yet?
Brian says that there's a good chance it'll start shipping before the 28th. I'm being optimistic now. MUST HAVE TOYS
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Is it the 28th yet?
...that's how Brick knows 7 days...they all ship on the 28th....derp I forgot!Since the rDNAs have separate battery and wiring compartments, could we get away with just sealing the wiring housing with silicone? Also, I guess you could silicone the whole thing if you planned to only charge with USB.
Doesn't that void the warranty? I actually have no idea exactly where you're talking about, but just wondering since I have one otw
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So does juice in the chip![]()
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