VaporShark rDNA

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freedogg

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I ordered on the 7th and received it on the 12th which included a holiday. Not bad at all.


There are no revised dna 40 boards yet. The fix for current boards with display issues is to put a dab of silicone under the display ribbon but that doesn't always work. Just FYI.




How long ago was that?
 

TheKiwi

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Kiwi -

am I understanding you correctly that VaporFlask actually CHARGED YOU for return shipping on a failed device under warranty??

If so, that will make me strongly reconsider doing business with them. That's BS.

Lol they didn't charge me per se. They just wouldn't issue me a shipping label so I had to pay for shipping back. And yeah it's stupid. I'm likely to sell it off once I get a working unit back.


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MJMcMahon

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Lol they didn't charge me per se. They just wouldn't issue me a shipping label so I had to pay for shipping back. And yeah it's stupid. I'm likely to sell it off once I get a working unit back.

That's what I thought you were saying - out of curiosity, how hard did you push the issue? Was this the chip failure (not VF's fault) or another issue?
 

TheKiwi

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That's what I thought you were saying - out of curiosity, how hard did you push the issue? Was this the chip failure (not VF's fault) or another issue?

Twas both. The charging port was over milled and exposed most of the charging card. My button was scratched up. And the chip was screwed up to.

To be honest I didn't push it much. After a couple of exchanges I just gave up. By that point I had already decided I just want the new functional unit back so that I sell it off in the Classies


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ilmostro99

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As I sit here waiting for my rDNA, reading, researching, etc., I was wondering about an ohms checker. As I am currently using a MPV v2, I make all of my builds around 1.3-1.8 ohms. I don't use a dedicated ohms reader, as I feel that for these "high ohm" builds, my MVP is accurate enough. Now that I'm getting ready to start to build with Ni200, and my ohms will be around 0.16 ohms, I am wondering if the ohms reader on the rDNA is going to be accurate enough for these builds. I realize that we can't look at ohms in quite the same way as we did before, but obviously ohms still matter, and with these "tight tolerances" we are using now, do I need a dedicated ohms reader? And if so, which would be best. I'd think the reader on the rDNA would be more accurate than many of these chinese-built readers, but I am not sure. Any thoughts?
 

TheKiwi

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I would strongly strongly recommend picking up a cheap chinese ohmeter in any case.

What has surprised me is that my 1 year old $12 ohm meter has read the resistance of my 0.06 to 0.4 ohm builds within 0.05 of what my dna40 is reading.

But here's the thing: I find that nickel builds can sometimes be a little. Fickle minded. My preference is to check the build on the ohm meter, then drop it on my dna40 and verify that the resistance is in the ball park region.

There has been a few times when the resistance of my build on my atty is either too low or too high (compared to what I had expected), resulting in either hitting TP prematurely, or getting dry hits respectively. And as it turned out, there was some issues with connectivity (be it within the atty or between the atty and the mod) that resulted in the wrong base resistance reading.

Having a 2 step verification with the ohmeter and mod allows you to detect any potential issues such as that. Just my 2 cents.


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peraspera

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...I realize that we can't look at ohms in quite the same way as we did before, but obviously ohms still matter, and with these "tight tolerances" we are using now, do I need a dedicated ohms reader? And if so, which would be best. I'd think the reader on the rDNA would be more accurate than many of these chinese-built readers, but I am not sure. Any thoughts?

I check my builds for shorts on an oHm meter before putting an atty on my rDNA40. It's not really necessary as the DNA 40 board has short protection, However, the oHm meter makes a great building stand so it's no extra trouble to check and slapping a shorted build on any mod has never given me the warm fuzzies.

Also, the DNA 40's own oHm reading is how it will determine temperature protection, soft limiting and errors so what an oHm meter reads isn't particularly relevant unless you are using it to help troubleshoot what you suspect may be a bad board. If you are using temperature protection both the atty and board should be at room temperature when taking the initial base reading for temperature protection to work correctly.
 

Stonecookie

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I bought an rDNA 30 from UK ecig store (had it sent to Sweden) & after only a few weeks of use my unit wouldn´t charge as it was supposed to... so, i emailed Vaporshark & explained the problem & they emailed me a shipping label for UPS.
What i had to do was fill out a customs form & i made sure to specify clearly that it was a repair & return & i also sent a copy of my receipt from UK ecig store since it´s inside the EU.... simply to avoid the US customs creating any problems. when the package was returned to me i got it without the Swedish customs trying anything.... (would have been pointless since i could have emailed them the receipt)

I know that Vaporshark could & should have communicated much better with us who pre-ordered the rDNA 40.....BUT, i have no complaints what so ever when it comes to how they handled my warranty issue. I was honestly surprised that they covered the international shipping cost for the return.....i wasn´t expecting that.

When Vaporshark recieved my mod it took them exactly one week until they had fixed it & shipped it back.

So, hopefully my experience might be of help for any owners of Vaporshark products living overseas.
 

dougward1960

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anyone in the us looking for a better usa made ohm meter check out usaohmeter.com they cost like $21 or if you want a diy one those are $14 and you can build your own ohm reader platform around it they are extremely accurate from some of the reviews and usa made hard to find usa made electronics
 

dougward1960

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Pretty sure it says somewhere on the website that the components are sourced overseas, and that the "us made" part is just the algorithm for determining resistance


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most chips are made overseas maybe i should of just said its a USA company to be politically correct. i was under the assuption they were assembled in the usa sorry if i was misleading anyone that wasnt my intention and they ARE more accurate than the Chinese ones so the turn around time should be less also as long as they are in stock and several colors too
 

rodsky77

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I bought an rDNA 30 from UK ecig store (had it sent to Sweden) & after only a few weeks of use my unit wouldn´t charge as it was supposed to... so, i emailed Vaporshark & explained the problem & they emailed me a shipping label for UPS.
What i had to do was fill out a customs form & i made sure to specify clearly that it was a repair & return & i also sent a copy of my receipt from UK ecig store since it´s inside the EU.... simply to avoid the US customs creating any problems. when the package was returned to me i got it without the Swedish customs trying anything.... (would have been pointless since i could have emailed them the receipt)

I know that Vaporshark could & should have communicated much better with us who pre-ordered the rDNA 40.....BUT, i have no complaints what so ever when it comes to how they handled my warranty issue. I was honestly surprised that they covered the international shipping cost for the return.....i wasn´t expecting that.

When Vaporshark recieved my mod it took them exactly one week until they had fixed it & shipped it back.

So, hopefully my experience might be of help for any owners of Vaporshark products living overseas.

That definitely helps :)
 
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