VaporShark rDNA

[tc1]

I keep my skin on all the time, just slipping it off to replace the battery.

But I've got a dual 20watt 2.4amp usb wall wart coming so I can use zip charging and not have to worry about replacing the battery at all. You can use the passthrough while charging or just switch to another mod while you wait for it to recharge (which is pretty fast with zip charging).

Not that I care too much, but I figured I might as well protect the finish on my rDNA as long as possible. Frankly, you'll pay $10-$18 for a vinyl wrap, so $10 for a silicon case is pretty reasonable IMHO.

Now if only I can get my custom lime green Goblin tank with a shark on it ....

 

[wawiv22]

dual coil 30g Ni200 3mm ID screwdriver 11 wraps each coil, eats through juice but is much cooler vape compared to single coil... Most rDNA users use single coils?

I've been practicing so please let me know if I need to change anything about my setup! resistance = 0.17 ohms, how can I make the Omega for the ohms here lol?

 

[Carnage9270]

My understanding was the dna 40 really wasn't intended for dual coils. Seems like adding a second coil would really send that chip off in so many ways. I guess I'm just not sure how it could be anywhere near accurate. Wouldn't it treat two coils as one? One could be 600 degrees and the other could be 300 and give you a 450 degree reading?

 

[Elyptic]

My understanding was the dna 40 really wasn't intended for dual coils. Seems like adding a second coil would really send that chip off in so many ways. I guess I'm just not sure how it could be anywhere near accurate. Wouldn't it treat two coils as one? One could be 600 degrees and the other could be 300 and give you a 450 degree reading?

For temp sensing, the DNA40 uses the change in resistance as the coil heats up. So in theory, as long as the coils are pretty much the exact same resistance, they should heat perfectly evenly. If that happens, the overall resistance change should account for the dual just fine.

And yes, there are a lot of variables there.


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[Carnage9270]

For temp sensing, the DNA40 uses the change in resistance as the coil heats up. So in theory, as long as the coils are pretty much the exact same resistance, they should heat perfectly evenly. If that happens, the overall resistance change should account for the dual just fine.

And yes, there are a lot of variables there.


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Yeah, but they sense resistance over the entire coil so wouldn't your coils have to be exact clones of each other? The difference in spacing could be huge over a coil that long (two combined like that). I can't even imagine what that thing would do when it's recalibrating itself for an hour

I guess my mind cant wrap itself around having something monitor temperature across two hot spots and be accurate. Then again, it isn't really all that accurate now.

 

[Woofer]

A difference in spacing has no effect whatsoever, unless some winds are touching and shorting.
It is as Elyptic said.

You claim the DNA 40 isn't really all that accurate now, I don't find that to be the case.
What is your DNA 40 doing that makes you say that?

 

[Carnage9270]

A difference in spacing has no effect whatsoever, unless some winds are touching and shorting.
It is as Elyptic said.

You claim the DNA 40 isn't really all that accurate now, I don't find that to be the case.
What is your DNA 40 doing that makes you say that?

Sorry, I didn't really type that correctly. I don't mean it's innacurate on the whole. It's when it does it's recalibration when you set it down for a while. Just a lot of fiddling around to get it to vape at the same temperature all the time.

 

[Elyptic]

Yeah, but they sense resistance over the entire coil so wouldn't your coils have to be exact clones of each other? The difference in spacing could be huge over a coil that long (two combined like that). I can't even imagine what that thing would do when it's recalibrating itself for an hour

I guess my mind cant wrap itself around having something monitor temperature across two hot spots and be accurate. Then again, it isn't really all that accurate now.

This is where a lot of people have issue with the DNA-40 temp sensing. From my understanding, the hotter the nickel wire gets, the higher the resistance. This makes sense. However, if one section of the coil is hotter than the other, the resistance will jump up and the temp protect will kick in to either reduce power, or actually flash temp protection if it really can't regulate the temp as it wants to.

The problem many users are running into is that they have a hot spot in their coil. This can be caused by many different factors, but from my experience, it's usually due to one of the following:

• Incorrect coil spacing - touching or shorting between wraps
• Incorrect wicking - wick not touching coil evenly, allowing some wraps to not get as much juice (which acts to cool the coil through evaporation) and one or more wraps gets hotter than the rest

Once there is a hot spot, the resistance in that spot rises enough to kick the temp limiting into gear. You can see this clearly after vaping enough liquid so you can see which wraps of the coil are gunking up faster. These are usually your hotter spots. Ideally, you want the coil gunk to build up evenly across the whole coil.

Dual coils will behave the same provided they are very close in resistance. But now you'll have to ensure that both coils are properly wrapped and that both are properly wicked. This doubles the work to an extent.

Not to totally derail the dual coil discussion, but from what I've seen personally, the biggest issue people have with temperature sensing is poor wicking. Usually, I see that people don't have wicking that extends all the way to the end -- where the wick leaves the coil it bends downward, leaving the top wrap on either end barely touching the wick. I've also seen the center of some wicks being tighter in the coil. Either of these will cause the coil to heat unevenly and make the temperature sensing less accurate.

 

[Woofer]

Sorry, I didn't really type that correctly. I don't mean it's innacurate on the whole. It's when it does it's recalibration when you set it down for a while. Just a lot of fiddling around to get it to vape at the same temperature all the time.

As soon as I had all solid connections all issues disappeared.
For example, the atty in my hand right now started at and has been solid 0.14 ohms for more than 10 weeks.

 

[Carnage9270]

As soon as I had all solid connections all issues disappeared.
For example, the atty in my hand right now started at and has been solid 0.14 ohms for more than 10 weeks.

Mine stays the same as well. But the temperature is definitely changing after being at rest for an hour or more. I have it set at 420 degrees and after an hour or two I pick it back up and it feels like 380. The coil reads the same resistance, but the temp is definitely different.

 

[Elyptic]

Mine stays the same as well. But the temperature is definitely changing after being at rest for an hour or more. I have it set at 420 degrees and after an hour or two I pick it back up and it feels like 380. The coil reads the same resistance, but the temp is definitely different.

What you're most likely experiencing is that your wick is fully saturated after you let it rest.

I've actually seen where, on a fully saturated wick, the DNA-40 chip cannot drive enough power (even when it boosts to 40W during the preheat) to get your temperature up to the limit you have it set to.

Try this:

1. Let the atty / coil / wick sit for an hour (or however long it takes to fully saturate)
2. Without actually taking a drag, fire the mod for a few seconds while looking at the screen. Note the rise in temperature and the temperature reached in a couple seconds.
3. Now vape for a while and try step 2 again. Note the temperature rise and max temperature you reach.

If it's anything like some of my builds, what you will notice is that after the atty has sat for a while, you cannot actually reach your desired temperature. However, after vaping for a bit, and doing it again, you'll notice the temperature rise relatively quickly and that you do hit your set temp limit.

So overall, you're correct. Your atty isn't reaching the same temperature after sitting. But not because of the chip / mod / inaccuracy. It simply can't get that much liquid hot enough quickly.

It's not necessarily a bad thing. For me, I usually try to fix my wicking to make my vaping as consistent as possible.

 

[Woofer]

Two possibilities are obvious 1) You are more sensitive to temp variation than I or 2) our devices do not behave the same.

I assume this holds true for all attys you have tried?
What atty, build etc?
How many watts?
What does the screen show as temp when you feel it is down in temp?

Say you experience this and up the temp what happens immediately and what happens after an hour?

Lots of questions, I won't be offended if you do not answer them.

 

[Woofer]

What you're most likely experiencing is that your wick is fully saturated after you let it rest.

That is my suspicion as well, I should just .... out you are doing a much better job then I!

 

[Elyptic]

That is my suspicion as well, I should just .... out you are doing a much better job then I!

I wouldn't say that! We're all here to help!

 

[Woofer]

You are to kind but I appreciate it!

 

[Carnage9270]

What you're most likely experiencing is that your wick is fully saturated after you let it rest.

I've actually seen where, on a fully saturated wick, the DNA-40 chip cannot drive enough power (even when it boosts to 40W during the preheat) to get your temperature up to the limit you have it set to.

Try this:

1. Let the atty / coil / wick sit for an hour (or however long it takes to fully saturate)
2. Without actually taking a drag, fire the mod for a few seconds while looking at the screen. Note the rise in temperature and the temperature reached in a couple seconds.
3. Now vape for a while and try step 2 again. Note the temperature rise and max temperature you reach.

If it's anything like some of my builds, what you will notice is that after the atty has sat for a while, you cannot actually reach your desired temperature. However, after vaping for a bit, and doing it again, you'll notice the temperature rise relatively quickly and that you do hit your set temp limit.

So overall, you're correct. Your atty isn't reaching the same temperature after sitting. But not because of the chip / mod / inaccuracy. It simply can't get that much liquid hot enough quickly.

It's not necessarily a bad thing. For me, I usually try to fix my wicking to make my vaping as consistent as possible.

This makes complete sense. I will give this a try tonight and see what's truly happening here.

 

[Carnage9270]

That is my suspicion as well, I should just .... out you are doing a much better job then I!

Please don't stop. Between the two of you I'll find myself an idiot soon enough.

 

[Elyptic]

This makes complete sense. I will give this a try tonight and see what's truly happening here.

Let us know how it goes! We can all learn together here!


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[layman1141]

I ordered my rDNA 40 last week and then got the email about the Vapor Shield Nano Coating. Long story short I emailed Vapor Shark and they told me that they had some that were already nano coated and that he could send me one of those if I canceled my order and reordered one with the Vapor Shield included. Apparently it will still ship out as planned which should be later this week or early next. Great customer service. I can't wait to get this thing.

 

[puffon]

Am I the only one that thinks, this Vapor Shield coating should be included with a new unit, and not be charged $34 more for it.
Especially with the door design, prone to juice leaking in.