vision clearo preview, cause you asked for it.

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zoiDman

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So who's going to open a class thread on electrical theory and the E cig??? :thumb:

Not me.

I’m still trying to figure out how a VVPV with a 3.7v battery can output 6v?

I was a Math major who took as few Electrical Engineering courses as possible to get my degree.
 

mwa102464

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Not me.

I’m still trying to figure out how a VVPV with a 3.7v battery can output 6v?

I was a Math major who took as few Electrical Engineering courses as possible to get my degree.

It is using a booster circuit, that's how,,, look up or Google booster circuit and read about it a bit and you will see how it all works Zoid
 

Randyrtx

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Can you elaborate for me I was under the impression my eGo was a 3.7. :( Now I have to rethink my resistance watt yada yada thing? I'm confused now, not hard to do BTW....

Zoid answered but I'll add: Genuine Egos use a regulator to keep the output at around 3.2-3.4V until the battery voltage drops to 3.3V. The idea is to provide more consistent performance from a fully-charged to depleted battery. Clone Egos, Rivas, and other unregulated batteries start at around 4.2V fully-charged, level to around 3.7V, then drop to 3.3V at shutoff.
 

zoiDman

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It is using a booster circuit, that's how,,, look up or Google booster circuit and read about it a bit and you will see how it all works Zoid

Thanks mwa... I'll see what I can find.

I know from the Conservation of Energy that to get more of something, you have to give up something. I'm guessing when more Voltage is needed that amps are sacificed.

Someone sent me this link one time...

Joule thief - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I guess they thought I would understand what it ment. :facepalm:

Zoid answered but I'll add: Genuine Egos use a regulator to keep the output at around 3.2-3.4V until the battery voltage drops to 3.3V. The idea is to provide more consistent performance from a fully-charged to depleted battery. Clone Egos, Rivas, and other unregulated batteries start at around 4.2V fully-charged, level to around 3.7V, then drop to 3.3V at shutoff.

Randy's right on the money.

I'll just throw this in also. An "eGo" has become almost a Generic term to refer to a whole host of PV's that have a similar shape and 510 thread.
 
Zoidman,

To answer your question about how a 3.7V battery can deliver 6 volts:

The common class of switching (not linear) regulators come in three configurations: Buck (where the output voltage is always less than the input voltage). Boost (where the output voltage is greater than the input voltage) and buck/boost (which can switch between either modes).

Swtiching regulators are fundimentally different from linear regulators in that they use an inductor and capacitor to store energy from the input soruce and then pass it (during the switching) to the output source. That way they can increase or decrease the output voltage any way they like, since the energy is stored before its passed through to the output, and can be "reconfigured".

So what's really important in a switching regulator is the overal power (either being supplied by the source or used by the output), since of course the circuit can't create any power of its own, rather than just the voltage or current alone.

For instance, if you have an output voltage of 4 volts and an output current of 1 amp (assuming the switcher is 100% efficient, which of course its not), for an input source of 2 volts (and a boost regulator), you would need an input current of 2 amps. because the amount of power you draw always stays constant.

Same works for buck. If your output power is 2 volts @ 2 amps, then you only need a current of 1 amp for an input voltage of 4 volts.

Switching regulators are very efficient (typically >90%) so there is almost no power lost to heat. This makes them much more desirable for applications where a fair bit of power is used (like E-cigs), because linear regulators would just dissipate the excess power as heat, and would get very hot.

Hope this helps.
 

zoiDman

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Zoidman,
...

Swtiching regulators are fundimentally different from linear regulators in that they use an inductor and capacitor to store energy from the input soruce and then pass it (during the switching) to the output source. That way they can increase or decrease the output voltage any way they like, since the energy is stored before its passed through to the output, and can be "reconfigured".
...

Thank you for a good explanation.

So if my battery is outputting say 3.7v and I want my VVPV to output say 4.5v to the Carto/atty...

If I have this correct, there is an induction which "steps up" the voltage and causes a drop in amperage. And this higher voltage is stored in a capacitor and then dumped to the carto/atty.
 

Adrena

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Zoid answered but I'll add: Genuine Egos use a regulator to keep the output at around 3.2-3.4V until the battery voltage drops to 3.3V. The idea is to provide more consistent performance from a fully-charged to depleted battery. Clone Egos, Rivas, and other unregulated batteries start at around 4.2V fully-charged, level to around 3.7V, then drop to 3.3V at shutoff.

Is that way I love a newly charged batt? I'm stepping it to the VV world with the infinity pro as soon as their ready.
I tried a Provari and Darwin at a meet. I admit I did not have real time with them. The Provari's digital display and the over all size is not for me.
The Darwin wile I found it easier to dial in and understand from the start. I don't like the flip up connection and flat box look.
The infinity is for me.
So I'm learning all I can (for 4 month now). But in the end I think I'll end up thinking like mwa with enough practice.
 
Thank you for a good explanation.

So if my battery is outputting say 3.7v and I want my VVPV to output say 4.5v to the Carto/atty...

If I have this correct, there is an induction which "steps up" the voltage and causes a drop in amperage. And this higher voltage is stored in a capacitor and then dumped to the carto/atty.


Yes, that's right. The inductor and capacitor store the energy from the input which is then transferred (which the switch in the switching regulator activates) to the output. That is why switchers are so efficient, the only energy lost is whatever the losses are in the inductor and cap, plus the switches.

Linear regulators, on the other hand, use a resistive element (actually a transistor biased in its linear region, which essentially acts like a resistor) to drop the excess voltage down to whatever voltage you want in the output. All that energy lost has to go somewhere and is dissipated in the unit as heat. Thus linear regulators are always hotter (and much less efficient) than switching regulators, and the voltage output of linear regulators is always lower than the input voltage.

Linear regulating circuits are simpler and cheaper than switchers, which is why they are still used. Switching regulators are getting more and more popular is time marches on, however, due to their much higher efficiency and flexibility.
 

zoiDman

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Yes, that's right. The inductor and capacitor store the energy from the input which is then transferred (which the switch in the switching regulator activates) to the output. That is why switchers are so efficient, the only energy lost is whatever the losses are in the inductor and cap, plus the switches.

Linear regulators, on the other hand, use a resistive element (actually a transistor biased in its linear region, which essentially acts like a resistor) to drop the excess voltage down to whatever voltage you want in the output. All that energy lost has to go somewhere and is dissipated in the unit as heat. Thus linear regulators are always hotter (and much less efficient) than switching regulators, and the voltage output of linear regulators is always lower than the input voltage.

Linear regulating circuits are simpler and cheaper than switchers, which is why they are still used. Switching regulators are getting more and more popular is time marches on, however, due to their much higher efficiency and flexibility.

I read a Great post in a battery thread in which Provape, the vendor of the Provari, outlined why the AW IMR batteries are considered much better, due to their lower internal resistance , than some of the other batteries on the market for VVPV's. They went into some of the things you have mentioned here in detail.

I’ll see if I can find it and post a link to it.

Armed with some of the knowledge I have gain here, I have a better understanding of what is going on.

Thank you.
 

mwa102464

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I read a Great post in a battery thread in which Provape, the vendor of the Provari, outlined why the AW IMR batteries are considered much better, due to their lower internal resistance , than some of the other batteries on the market for VVPV's. They went into some of the things you have mentioned here in detail.

I’ll see if I can find it and post a link to it.

Armed with some of the knowledge I have gain here, I have a better understanding of what is going on.

Thank you.

Zoid, give the MNKE Battery a shot also, these MNKE IMR's are a very good Batt, I have been getting a longer run time from them than the AW it seems.
 

zoiDman

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Zoid, give the MNKE Battery a shot also, these MNKE IMR's are a very good Batt, I have been getting a longer run time from them than the AW it seems.

Do you have a link to these MNKE batteries?

Speaking of batteries. I found that thread that had the post about batteries in it. It's a LONG post so here is a link to it if anyone want to read it.

If the link fails its post #3380

...

Some have asked, "Why are High Drain Batteries recommended?" The answer to this is: High Drain Batteries have an internal resistance of 20 milliohms. All other batteries have an internal resistance of over 160 milliohms. This factor of 8 (or more) means the battery terminal voltage will be lower and internal battery heat will be 8 times higher during its use. That all translates to less runtime and less battery life. All DC/DC Converters work on a power in/power out principle.

...
 

bmwjen

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Tried my Vision tank for the first time today! SWEET! I love that the tank is thin instead of a big fat tank on top of my mods. I also filled mine with a syringe.........but I took both of the little caps off inside to do it. When I tried filling it with a syringe it was draining straight through the atty.
This hits REALLY nice at 3.7V, 1600mAh!
I need to get a different mouth piece, this one just isn't cute enough..........so polymer clay drip tip to fit my vision tank will be done tomorrow!
Thanks for another excellent product! GotVapes is ALWAYS one step ahead of the rest!
 
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