What makes the provari so special?

What?

 

There's also quite a difference between US steel and what passes off as stainless in China.

 

Awesome... That is all...

 

Even the aluminum they use is the lowest grade they can get!

 

That's just it; it is what they can get at the time. There's no consistency when it comes to Chinese metals. When we get something metal in at work that is made in China, I zap it with an XRF analyzer. It is shocking what they consider hardened, tool steel or stainless.

 

Depends. In my trade I buy by the numbers. 304 is 304. 316 is 316. Doesn't matter where it came from. If you buy just 'stainless' it could be from a wide variety of alloy's. I've got some great stainless from a Chinese manufacturer, but I knew what I was buying before I committed.

 

the Provari is cast from the finest Unobtanium and forged in the fires of Mount St. Helens and tempered with the Woeful tears of the pixies enslaved in the volcano mines. then they use Unicorn blood for the red LED's.

Uh huhuhuhuh - He said tool.

 

We have bought fittings, tools, dies... with exact specifications and have gotten ranges of steel, even though certain types were specified. We aren't a small company and the engineers are quite specific to the suppliers as to exactly what we need. Chinese standards from what I have seen don't conform to AISI specs. Phosphorus and sulfur seem to be over abundant.

 

Now that's a scary picture...

And... the rest of you popcorn people should be ashamed of yourselves... LMAO!!

 

Yes Ma'am

 

So sorry ... I think I'm in the wrong place. Is this the Provari vs. (anything) Knock Out Game thread?

Ladies, please remember it's "attack the post, not the poster".

Gentlemen, start yer engines.

 

I'm late to this argument, but I would like to know myself....I thought the MVP 2.0 and Provari both essentially output flat DC(or pulsed fast enough where it seems that way).

Is the claim that you can tell vape differences at higher voltages when the MVP starts draining? I can understand that there would be a difference at higher voltages as the battery on the MVP drains, but when the MVP is fully charged and at to least to 4.0-4.2V should have no difference. With the transformer/op-amp or whatever the provari uses, there should be consistency that the MVP will not have as the battery drops down...no disagreement there as even with my useless sense of taste, I can tell.

Am I mistaken?

 

Wow that sounded horribly worded, and I can't edit it. It sounds like verbal diarrhea(my own post on top). Is there a reason I can't edit this?

 

Another difference between the MVP and the Provari is that the MVP only goes up to 5v whereas the Provari goes to 6V. I had one of the MVP version 1. I liked the small box size. But, I prefer to vape above 5V. Also, the battery life started declining after about 3 months. I ended up gifting it to a friend wanting to try vaping. She used it for another 4 months and it died. Though it served its purpose. It helped her quit smoking and then when it died she moved up to a provari as well.
I have purchased 4 provaris over the past 3 years and cannot say anything negative about its quality, long term value and Provapes customer service.

When I leave my house I want to know the pv I take along is going to work and not have to carry my full vape bag with a bunch of backup devices. The only extras I ever take along are an extra 18650 battery and a container of eliquid for a tank refill. I am good for 24hrs +.

 

Agreed about the voltage part, and have worries that I'm getting close to the ~500 charges etc that the battery can take without degradation of the battery.

My marriage to the MVP is about to end. 2 hours and 50 minutes. I will use the MVP until it dies though as its convenient to be used the whole day, and I have a charger in my car when I'm driving, so charging up is never an issue. Thats the one thing I'll really miss! I'll probably buy another one as a backup once this one dies.

 

The thing that makes the Provari so special is that it puts out magic fairy pixie watts.

I have tested and confirmed this.

That's why I own 2.

That is the definitive reason and answer.


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This is pretty much true when buying Cert-ed Material. But when buying Non-Cert-ed Material things sometimes fall apart. It depends on the Supplier.

The problem lies in that there is No Clear Definition as to what "Stainless Steel" is.

It used to be that people would Not call an Alloy "Stainless" unless it had at lest 15% Chromium and 5% Nickel. Today, it seems that Anything goes.

I have seen people refer to 4130 as "Stainless Steel". I cringe when I see stuff like this. But there Isn't any Stainless Steel police out there enforcing what someone Can or Can't call something as "Stainless".

 

1. solid built to last for years. may be can be passed from generation to generation.
2. hit gr8 every time.
3. same performance always.
4. never misfires.
5. solid as tank ... CAN BE USED AS A PROTECTIVE TOOL TOO ... SOS !!
6. you can get bored of it but it will always give you a reason not to change your mod.