Gone industrial with No. 2.
Also just in case you wondered what a long barrelled 357 looks like.
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who says that VMOD XL is the best bottom feeder on the earth ?
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Gone industrial with No. 2.
Also just in case you wondered what a long barrelled 357 looks like.
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So its official, I sold my Reo Mini and bought another Vmod Xl. I believe that says it all. Oh yea and HAPPY 4th!!
Phew another saved from having the unfathomable urge to run a truck over their PV.
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There is even a video of it lol
I have just gone down the expedient route of not risking my PV's by not owning a truck.
Nooooo must stop lol
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I have just gone down the expedient route of not risking my PV's by not owning a truck.
Nooooo must stop lol
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Just an update on the Ming/Pawn top for the V-mod XL, the only remaining set back is the threads most tool warehouse I've shown said that its a custom diameter, If I really want a tap same as V-mods I'd have to special order a tap which will run about $150, as soon as the tap is made the machinist can begin doing the prototype. Its been 3 weeks since I last posted and for the last 2 weeks I've been trying to match the diameter and pitch with what ever is lying around I'm beginning to think my efforts are futile. I woulda hope this woulda atleast been started now, still have more contacts to go thru and if everything else fail I guess I'll have to decide if I wanna invest in a tap that could only go so far as the prototype. Below is a sample of the design I'm still working on it.
Still looks interesting.
Suspect alas it will be a labour of love that hopefully will see the costs covered.
Not sure this is a help, actually know it will be a hindrance. Lots of folks use long barrel 357's, Boges and Resurrectors.
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Suspect alas it will be a labour of love that hopefully will see the costs covered.
Not sure this is a help, actually know it will be a hindrance. Lots of folks use long barrel 357's, Boges and Resurrectors.
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A labor of love it is but its freaking killing my bank 
And after thinkering on it for a while I can't seem to make the kick work with the V-mod XL, it drops alot of voltage on contact ie 2.4 ohms kick is set to 7 watts and the voltage meter reads 3.1-3.3 volts but when I tried it on my GGTS it worked fine the meter fluctuates from 3.6-4.1. I could just permanently solder the kick to wire and solder to the spring but that wouldn't fly with me.
This is not how I envisioned it
, I wanted a kicked V-mod XL with a custom top, it looks better when I was conjuring it. 
And after thinkering on it for a while I can't seem to make the kick work with the V-mod XL, it drops alot of voltage on contact ie 2.4 ohms kick is set to 7 watts and the voltage meter reads 3.1-3.3 volts but when I tried it on my GGTS it worked fine the meter fluctuates from 3.6-4.1. I could just permanently solder the kick to wire and solder to the spring but that wouldn't fly with me. This is not how I envisioned it
, I wanted a kicked V-mod XL with a custom top, it looks better when I was conjuring it.
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I haven't got Kicked yet but will do in time I guess.
Still enjoying my LR's at 3.7 so not feeling the need as yet. That may change when I play some more with the Vivi Nova but for now...not so much.
Curiosity again lol Are you trying to install the Kick under the juice bottle or using a 18490 with it ?
Still enjoying my LR's at 3.7 so not feeling the need as yet. That may change when I play some more with the Vivi Nova but for now...not so much.
Curiosity again lol Are you trying to install the Kick under the juice bottle or using a 18490 with it ?
18500 actually I found that the black AW has enough amp discharge rate to satisfy the kick my preference of course I haven't delve into 8-10 watts. From 5-7 watts I used the AW 18500 Last me at least 10 hours more if I push it but I don't wanna drain the battery till 3.2 volts. I've been using the kick for a month now and I finally understand why some people prefer this over the regulated voltage mods (ie provari). I've had the buzz, provari, regular tube mods that can go 3.6,3.7,5,6,7.4 and 8.4 , and they're all gathering dusts now. The thing that drew me to V-mod XL more than anything is that I've never had a box mod. Also a plus is the fact that it can carry 9ml e-liquid and the price is not that bad too. Then I realize why I let go of my single and multi-battery operated mods, I can never be satisfied with one voltage, again that's personal preference. If you look at a meter when your using those mods any one o0f them it will display one voltage and it will be consistent unless the battery starts dipping down. At which point its not the same hit and feel anymore, enter the Evolv mods, once you set your preferred wattage it calculates and measure the ohm and volt power needed to have a consistent hit until the battery dips below the batteries threshold. If there wasn't a problem with the negative connection I would be using the the Prodigy V1.
I love my VMod, if you can't tell.
Do have a couple of Vari's, well 1 as I type but another enroute to replace the Mini I had. So rather like them as well. Going to type this quietly especially with the Z Atty P I have. Reason I have another coming is that I have another Genisis tank coming.
Is this the end of the VMod ? Nope as for me they compliment each other perfectly.
Can see your point about setting wattage. My VMod is Kick enabled with the copper in the battery bay already but if I were to Kick it I would go for the Kick under the bottle option to keep the 18650.
Do have a couple of Vari's, well 1 as I type but another enroute to replace the Mini I had. So rather like them as well. Going to type this quietly especially with the Z Atty P I have. Reason I have another coming is that I have another Genisis tank coming.
Is this the end of the VMod ? Nope as for me they compliment each other perfectly.
Can see your point about setting wattage. My VMod is Kick enabled with the copper in the battery bay already but if I were to Kick it I would go for the Kick under the bottle option to keep the 18650.
My copper tape is on its way, I have used 3 mils aluminum tape but the resistance bumps up and the voltage goes down, hopefully the copper is thinner but more resilient. I experimented on a 24 gauge wire connected directly to the negative posts and it produce the same results as with using it in the GGTS. Have you experimented on other mods to see if they produce the same results as when using it(kick) on the V-mod.
I did run into a problem with the kick when I was using aluminum tape. To cut down on the amount of resistance of a full spread aluminum tape on the battery holder, I cut it to just the right amount of aluminum tape to connect to the negative posts it worked fine until I changed the battery. I found out that it'll only worked fine at certain voltage
. When I changed the battery it produced the same result as a full spread of aluminum in the battery holder but when the battery goes down to 3.84 volts then it will work like I'm using the kick in the GGTS. I don't think its the battery protection unit that kicks in because of the amount of amp draw it needs if it was, then it should be the same across the board no matter how much power is left on the battery. That Voltage indicator, expensive as it may seem, is invaluable when I conducted these experiments. I did consider the possibility that it could be the kick module but it works when I'm using it with the GGTS and that has thicker aluminum than the one I put on the V-mod battery holder. I even went so far as using black AW 16340's, they can last for 4 hours BTW, with the kick in the GGTS.
I still have more experiments to do to investigate further to see where the problem is but, this I know for certain, the kick will work in the V-mod properly with a wire attached to the negative posts and no matter which Aw battery I use the kick works on the GGTS.
Just happened to buy it this way.
Sorry not experimented with the Kick at all. Don't own one.
Think Kwalka does.
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Yes I do and I bought a second Vmod xl to chop up if necessary. I'm having surgery this week so all is on hold until I'm back at it.
As it turns out the kick will work regardless of what you use aluminum or copper tape. After a week of experimentations I finally found the snag in the aluminum tape as it turns out all I needed to do was not to put too much aluminum tape. After I streamlined it the kick in the Vmod worked. The main difference between them is that the copper tape was thinner and double conductive, the aluminum tape I got was from your local HD in the air section.
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