Consider reading @Baditude's blog article on batteries:
(9) Battery Basics for Mods; the Ultimate Battery Guide | E-Cigarette Forum
The 25R (20 amp CDR) is considered good for up to 60 watts on a single battery regulated mod.
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(9) Battery Basics for Mods; the Ultimate Battery Guide | E-Cigarette Forum
The 25R (20 amp CDR) is considered good for up to 60 watts on a single battery regulated mod.
25r are tested at 19a mate
read i still don't agree
"the mod takes the power from the battery and ups the power in the chip it's self"
mech rules don't apply
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@Mooch seems to rate the 25R at 20amps (for any of the 25R blue wrap, 25R green wrap, and the 25R6m).
Whether you agree or not, it is still the case that if you are vaping a 25R at 75 watts on a regulated mod, then you are drawing more current than its CDR by the time you get to the mod's cutoff. The mod's chip doesn't magically up the power from the battery -- it draws power from the battery ... when the battery is full (4.2v) the chip can provide 75 watts by drawing 18 amps, but when the battery is down to 3.2v, the chip draws more current (now 23+ amps) to provide the same 75 watts.
With a regulated device you have 2 sides to the regulated circuit. An input side (battery) and output side (coil). The input (battery) does not see the resistance of the coil – it only see’s what the regulated circuit is asking in terms of power.
The chip has a boost and buck functionality but still requests your prescribed power from the cells. The boost or buck is dependant on what your power is set at and the resistance of your coil. 60 watts with a 0.5 ohm coil will require 5.48 volts and draw 11 amps. On a single cell device (4.2 volts max from the batteries) the chip is boosting the voltage. This is calculated as: Voltage = √Power x Resistance. Then Current = Volts / Resistance
But the chip is still requesting 60 watts from the battery plus what ever it needs for efficiency. For a single cell this is calculated as. Watts per battery/battery voltage/efficiency
So 60 watts with full 4.2 volts battery at 90% efficiency the battery current draw would equal 16 amps. At 3.2 volts, the cut-off of most regulated circuits, the current draw would be 20 amps
You're very welcome.....last thing we all want is for you to injure yourself with a battery venting right next to your face
this is where the inductors and capacitors come into play mate
all be it not in a auto firing situation
is this what the regulated rules are for incase you have a autofiring mod?
not meaning to be a cnut
in my mind that's how my mods work
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this is where the inductors and capacitors come into play mate
all be it not in a auto firing situation
is this what the regulated rules are for incase you have a autofiring mod?
not meaning to be a cnut
in my mind that's how my mods work
If you have a DNA device you can see this in action with Escribe. Green line represents power in watts, Black line = Volts from the battery and Blue line represents current draw from the batteries.
I=Power/Voltage
100 watts/7.4 volts = 13.5 amps. Factor in ~95% efficiency and we come to the ~14 amps as displayed in Escribe.
Still, a 75W draw on a run-down 20A battery shouldn't make it hot to the touch. That's bad. It's either the battery (which I doubt unless it's a really defective recycle bin can that got a fresh label from someone who could care less about safety) or the mod. Bad contacts can mess with battery draw and make things toasty. Either way, a battery that hot to the touch belongs in a recycle station and an authentic battery obtained (note the price of a good one like say a 25R is $4.50-5.00 online, which may well be cheaper than the rewraps offered in the vape shop).
I would still proceed with great caution on that mod to assure there's no funky current flow from a faulty contact even with a new battery. I would not charge the battery in the mod (that's a general rule regardless) and if I felt that new battery get warm I'd get a new mod asap and hopefully a refund ftom the store or at least a replacement under warranty. Seriously a hot battery should never be felt with use, regulated or mech. If it's hot to the touch in a mech you're asking for trouble too but there the most likley point of failure is you with an unreasonable build for the battery chosen. KISS really applies in situations like this. I applaud the OP for coming on here when the problem was noted rather than just assume that's how these things work like getting really hot with use.
I would still proceed with great caution on that mod to assure there's no funky current flow from a faulty contact even with a new battery. I would not charge the battery in the mod (that's a general rule regardless) and if I felt that new battery get warm I'd get a new mod asap and hopefully a refund ftom the store or at least a replacement under warranty. Seriously a hot battery should never be felt with use, regulated or mech. If it's hot to the touch in a mech you're asking for trouble too but there the most likley point of failure is you with an unreasonable build for the battery chosen. KISS really applies in situations like this. I applaud the OP for coming on here when the problem was noted rather than just assume that's how these things work like getting really hot with use.
I'd like a clarification....
It it actually the battery itself that is hot, or is it the mod/housing?
Probably the battery, but I want to make sure here we're not talking about heat from the tank/topper being wicked down into the mod shell as a heat-sink.
Sometimes a "mod" will get hot due to over-vaping and over-heating the topper.
If it's the actual physical battery, I'd get a new one fast....and consider lowering the needed watts. But that's been covered above.
It it actually the battery itself that is hot, or is it the mod/housing?
Probably the battery, but I want to make sure here we're not talking about heat from the tank/topper being wicked down into the mod shell as a heat-sink.
Sometimes a "mod" will get hot due to over-vaping and over-heating the topper.
If it's the actual physical battery, I'd get a new one fast....and consider lowering the needed watts. But that's been covered above.
this is where the inductors and capacitors come into play mate
all be it not in a auto firing situation
is this what the regulated rules are for incase you have a autofiring mod?
not meaning to be a cnut
in my mind that's how my mods work
There's differences in the efficiency of various mods, but you always need cells that can withstand the current draw from the mod. There's no free lunch when you are drawing 60W from a single cell mod. Yes, the electronics carry the load and buffer the current draw, but the current load is still transferred to the battery to enable the mod to do that. A 10A cell in a 60W mod is asking for trouble if you crank the electronics to higher wattage with a low resistance coil.
Think of it in terms of engine size in a large vehicle. You can drive a 4 cylinder truck under light loads, but for heavy hauling you need a V8. Load the 4 cylinder bed with a ton of sand and the 4 cylinder will strain and the engine may eventually blow up.
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one second mate
that screen shot proves my point?
volts available to the mode is 8.3v plus
under fire there is 7.4v available and the mod is using 0.88v to power the device with the inverter and capacitor taking the load?
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I'm not sure I understood your point, mac-nutty.
But what Dave (and others) said above is true...there's no free lunch.
The voltage changes over time as the battery is depleted. BUT the regulated mod makes sure that a consistent voltage or wattage is delivered. To do that, it draws EXTRA amps from the battery to do its magic.
Since wattage is a measurment of work-performed, you can mix and match voltage and amp-draw to get to that amount of work. Thus P (power/watts) = I x V (amps x volts). Or I (amps) = P/V...so I (amps) gets bigger as power requirement stays the same and voltage goes down.
Move a 100lb load 50 feet, or 4 25lb loads 50 feet...same amount of work (more or less).
But what Dave (and others) said above is true...there's no free lunch.
The voltage changes over time as the battery is depleted. BUT the regulated mod makes sure that a consistent voltage or wattage is delivered. To do that, it draws EXTRA amps from the battery to do its magic.
Since wattage is a measurment of work-performed, you can mix and match voltage and amp-draw to get to that amount of work. Thus P (power/watts) = I x V (amps x volts). Or I (amps) = P/V...so I (amps) gets bigger as power requirement stays the same and voltage goes down.
Move a 100lb load 50 feet, or 4 25lb loads 50 feet...same amount of work (more or less).
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I was just getting ready to post the same question.
mac-butty lol
That screen shows my thinking attypoops
volts available to the mod is 8.3v+
under fire there is 7.4v available and the mod is using 0.88v+ to power the device with the inverter and capacitor taking the load?
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b and n are right next to each other. Typo.
The bottom line is that it will draw as many amps as it needs to pump the voltage up enough to maintain the wattage at that coil resistance.
yes it will if it needs any to top up the inverter capacitors,, not sucking all the power like a mech would see ?
inductor not inverter sorry
The power utilization of a mech goes down over time. It's highest with a fresh charge, and since the resistance stays [relatively] the same, and the battery voltage depletes over time, the power goes down.
Mech users, particularly cloud chasers, are famous for charging batteries when 1/4-usage depleted because they can't get a consistent vape. And the regulated mods give consistency due to active circuitry maintaining a voltage/wattage.
Not sure if that's what you're referring to here...
there is a constant draw from the batteries with the board taking the drain thus not stressing the batteries under load the blast of power comes from the chip and components
"And the regulated mods give consistency due to active circuitry maintaining a voltage/wattage."
yes the inverter and the capacitor etc this is where the magic happens,, this doesn't just happen when the batteries are low all the battery does in a reg mod is to feed the components what they need to give a short blast of power on top of what is stored to the coil
i think we could be friends
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