Why is my battery getting so hot?

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jandrew

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there is a constant draw from the batteries with the board taking the drain thus not stressing the batteries under load the blast of power comes from the chip and components

"And the regulated mods give consistency due to active circuitry maintaining a voltage/wattage."

yes the inverter and the capacitor etc this is where the magic happens,, this doesn't just happen when the batteries are low all the battery does in a reg mod is to feed the components what they need to give a short blast of power on top of what is stored to the coil

i think we could be friends :)

due to this would regulated mods battery safety not be mod dependent due the components in the mod it's self?
You keep mentioning capacitors and inverters ... you seem to have a fundamental misunderstanding of what a board does in a regulated mod. The board does not store up power/energy and release it when you press the button, it regulates how energy is drawn from the battery on one side to supply a given power level to the resistance load on the other side.
 

mac-nutty

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I'd like a clarification....
It it actually the battery itself that is hot, or is it the mod/housing?

Probably the battery, but I want to make sure here we're not talking about heat from the tank/topper being wicked down into the mod shell as a heat-sink.

Sometimes a "mod" will get hot due to over-vaping and over-heating the topper.

If it's the actual physical battery, I'd get a new one fast....and consider lowering the needed watts. But that's been covered above.
this leads to my answer for the op
if the mod or batterys are from good sources and not faulty and the heats not from the atty,, perhaps the components on the board aren't up to the job thus draining loads from the batteries to keep up with the output

stick with well known good boards chip when buying a mod these can be found as cheap as other mods and worth looking out for on the next mod buy
???????
 

DaveP

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Even at .1 ohms the vape is 35A at 122W. Of course, the chart is assuming direct battery draw from a mech mod, but heat is heat and the cell will be severely stressed on a single battery electronic mod.

Sub Ohm Vaping Chart of Ohm's Law Reference Chart | Vaping411

OHMS-LAW-CHART.png
 
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AttyPops

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this leads to my answer for the op
if the mod or batterys are from good sources and not faulty and the heats not from the atty,, perhaps the components on the board aren't up to the job thus draining loads from the batteries to keep up with the output

stick with well known good boards chip when buying a mod these can be found as cheap as other mods and worth looking out for on the next mod buy
???????
Yeah.
1) Battery
2) Electronics
3) Topper

The heat comes from one of these, and we KNOW the coil in the topper is a heat source. How much heat it's dumping into the tank and mod (heat sink) is unknown too.

That's why taking the battery out and feeling the heat is important.

According to this:
iJoy SABER 100W & Diamond Tank Starter Kit | Vape Pens
if that's the right mod, there's TWO types of batteries that can be used.
Single High-Amp 20700 Battery - Not Included
Optional Single 18650 Battery - Adapters Included

The OP said they're using
Ijoy 20700 battery
 

DaveP

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Mac-Nutty wrote: "mod dependent^ ??"

The chart is simply a projection that follows ohm's law to extrapolate the data across the spectrum of voltage/current and resistance. An electronic mod might shut down at certain points depending on the ROM program that controls the mod. A mech just continues on happily to the lower end of battery depletion until the protection disc opens or the cell fails and spews hot electrolyte.
 
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mac-nutty

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You keep mentioning capacitors and inverters ... you seem to have a fundamental misunderstanding of what a board does in a regulated mod. The board does not store up power/energy and release it when you press the button, it regulates how energy is drawn from the battery on one side to supply a given power level to the resistance load on the other side.
tell me more mate
this could be a safety learning thing for me


ok I have just taken the rda from my single bat mod and put it on a mech 0.22ohm with the same bat full charged the power isn't the same far from it the reg mod has huge power compared to it
if the regulated mod doesn't store,boost up power how can this be
 
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jandrew

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tell me more mate
this could be a safety learning thing for me


ok I have just taken the rda from my single bat mod and put it on a mech 0.22ohm with the same bat full charged the power isn't the same far from it the reg mod has huge power compared to it
if the regulated mod doesn't store,boost up power how can this be
The board does boost ... it does so by drawing extra current from the battery to boost the voltage to supply the power level you've set on the regulated mod. That is why, on a regulated mod, the current draw on the battery is highest when the battery is at its lowest voltage (at or near cutoff).
 

Eskie

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OK. The board is just a DC->DC converter. It does not violate the laws of physics. On a mech there is nothing but a battery a load and a switch. The battery drain is determined by the load.

On a regulated mod the buck/buck boost converter is simply regulating the voltage delivered to the load dependant on the wattage you select. Boards have built in protections against overvoltage undervolage over amperage setting built in. It's why you really don't see a single battery mod claim to deliver over 75W from a single 18650. It would be an unsafe draw. Specs, when available, will tell you things like max voltage and max Amp draws allowed before the mod/board won't allow it. So you can't run a battery down below 3.2V and overdrain it or try to draw 50A from a single battery 18650 power source (numbers of course vary with the number of batteries and the individual capabilities of the electronics).

Edit hit reply by mistake before finishing. Might be a good thing and keep me from another long winded post. Bottom line the board not only controls the voltage delivered dependant on the wattage selected and whether or not the resistance is within the specs of the board, but it manages the battery to prevent over/under draw and balanced discharging (and hopefully balanced charging if you do charge a multi battery mod directly). There's no magic going on and no electrons created out of a vaccum or hadron collider.
 

Punk In Drublic

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tell me more mate
this could be a safety learning thing for me


ok I have just taken the rda from my single bat mod and put it on a mech 0.22ohm with the same bat full charged the power isn't the same far from it the reg mod has huge power compared to it
if the regulated mod doesn't store,boost up power how can this be

Go to the Battery Drain tab of the Steam Engine Calculator. It sates below:

As the battery drains in a regulated mod, the battery voltage goes down. As a result, the mod must draw more current in order to maintain the set voltage or power. In other words, as battery voltage goes down, battery current goes up. This is the opposite of what happens with mechanical mods, and somewhat unintuitive.

Within the calculator, choose AVP (Regulated), choose a resistance then power setting. On the Atomizer bubble you can see how the regulator circuit applies voltage based on your resistance as I described earlier. Voltage = √Power x Resistance. And from this it will also display the current draw: Current = Volts/Resistance. As you change your resistance both the voltage and current will change to reflect this. As your change your power, both the current and voltage will change to reflect this. But keep the power the same.

Now look at the darker blue Battery Drain bubble, the voltage and current does not change should you not change the power. Now reduce the battery voltage – the Atomizer side does not change but the battery drain does. It reflects your new battery voltage, plus what the device requires for efficiency and what the current draw is which as voltage decreases, current increases.

4.2 volts.jpg

3.2 volts.jpg
 

Punk In Drublic

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that was fun thank guys

:thumb:

But do you now understand the importance of using the correct batteries for a regulated device. Should my above example be a single cell mod, cause many do allow up to 80 watts, any battery <25amps can be stressed thus operate at a higher temperature which as I am sure you know poses a risk.

Again, not saying this is the case with the OP, but a logical explanation.
 

Baditude

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Came late to the party. :(



WATTAGE PER SINGLE BATTERY on REGULATED MOD:
(Total wattage doubles using 2 batteries; Triples using 3 batteries.)

Up to 45W:
Samsung 18650 30Q, 3000 mah 15 amp CDR
363984-e565e32efab1e4227719866a9a8b957c.jpg

Sony 18650VTC6 3000mAh 15 amp CDR
413691-6d99870bef0f9d8bd4cfb656baac2f7b.jpg

Up to 60W:
LG 18650HG2 3000mah 20 amp CDR
346357-b4b716723a22088fab0a5bf10f1b49ad.jpg

LG 18650HE4 2500 mah 20 amp CDR
373819-b889be4c74fcdafa3f81b77387c1039f.jpg

Samsung 18650-25R, 2500 mah 20 amp CDR
480893-f9aa259b6278bd14930b251db599258b.jpg

Sanyo UR18650NSX, 2500 mah 20 amp CDR
378261-aaf8c523bf96f24707f538807755e5d3.jpg

Sony 18650VTC5, 2600 mah 20 amp CDR
376248-b8539a19e3674529dd18c0d4a7b45fbd.jpg

Sony 18650VTC4, 2100 mah 23 amp CDR
375725-e80826e842f37ec825e3c9d326022214.jpg

Up to 75W:
LG 18650 HD4 2100 mah 25 amp CDR
385835-3a8df09a46862337422b3b76a151fcf0.jpg

LG 18650 HD2 2000 mah 25 amp CDR
376922-73545b66ab0955890ea3cc74c9adb39f.jpg

Samsung 18650-24S, 2500 mah 25 amp CDR
567779-1876260dcd39b9dcc8127176faccf541.jpg

Sony 18650VTC5A, 2500 mah 25 amp CDR
397493-cc91892a31586c163dc419ce4bd3e8dd.jpg

Up to 90W:
LG18650HB6 1500mah 30 amp CDR
380919-214d0ffa29b60f062ba7640627ad5605.jpg

LG18650HB2 1500mAh 30 amp CDR
377182-6c570506e6ae8e85f30ce64b386a8f13.jpg

LG18650HB4 1500mAh 30 amp CDR
380403-c8fa9e7b310e40c393b6edff15726a5f.jpg

Samsung 18650-20S 2000mah 30 amp CDR
567575-254dcc9f3000323cb489ab10e8b02d13.jpg
 
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Punk In Drublic

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now I don't understand 220w dual 18650 mods :/ :D

Marketing!

220 watts is only achievable under certain circumstances with certain devices for you are running the device at it’s limits in terms of max voltage and max current draw. With the objective measurements performed by DJLsb Vapes, we see many devices fail to reach their claimed power output due to these limitations. Not to mention you are attempting to draw nearly 40 amps per cell with a dual battery device at that power level.

Cause we love to pick on Smok, here’s an example with the Smok Majesty (but in Smok’s defence, many devices are the same)

Max wattage = 225
Max Voltage = 9 volts
Max Current = Unknown!

Given the max voltage is limited to 9 volts, any resistance over 0.37 ohms will reach that voltage ceiling and power will start to scale back. Assuming of course the device is able to deliver the current for anything under 0.3(ish) ohms. Now ask yourself why the majority of Smok’s coils are in the 0.1 to 0.2ohm range?

But if we look at the battery side, 225 watts (sans any power scale back) would draw 40 amps per cell assuming a 90% efficiency at 3.2 volts cut off.
 
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stormjib

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Mr Baditude; a question. I've seen that wattage charge many times, and no doubt it's very useful for vw devices, but what about vv devices? Is there an 'across-the-board' factor that I could use? I mostly use pwm, mech, and vv devices, although I also use vw. Is there anything besides voltage and resistance that I should consider when calculating amp draw? Personally I don't like variable wattage nearly as much as variable voltage. I like being able to put any atty on my device and get a 4.2 volt hit without having to consult my screen or calculator. Do I need to calculate wattage?
 

AttyPops

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All the numbers are interrelated.

If you want to know the amp draw (to check if you're in spec with what you think you want for the battery....that you're not supposed to ever use in a vape device per the manufacturer...;)...but we all use them....):

upload_2019-3-18_17-36-23.png


So if you know any two, you can figure out the others.
Like if you know your volts are 4.2 and you want to stay at 10 amps, you see that R = V/i. You want to know what ohm coil to wind at 4.2 volts to have 10 amps max. So 4.2 volts / 10 amps = .42 ohms. Any lower than that and you'd go over 10 amps.

Just example #'s.

And since Watts = V x i = that's 10 x 4.2 = 42 watts. (if you actually had the coil at .42).

EDIT: Of course that's theoretical, and as we said above, it could draw more amps than that to boost a partly discharged battery.
 
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