Will it fit? Reo vs Creo.
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I doubt that there would be much of an advantage for me. The resistance of the parts you have replaced is pretty low anyway. I suppose if you are vaping in the lower sub ohm range it may be worth doing, especially if you are getting some sag in the spring and getting and lots of contact arcing.
I have seen others add a door magnet to the positive contact on the battery if they use flat tops, this reduces the throw of the contact and the arcing. Some people that were getting spring sag also solder the spring contact to the mounting plate as these are riveted and can cause some issues.
Have you had any issues with the adjustable 510 on the clone? I know the design was changed to a left handed thread after some initial problems on the original units.
I guarantee this is a horribly inaccurate assumption.
When you gain efficiency in a mech, the gain is universal across the board regardless of build... especially starting out this poorly.
These are all piss poor, potentially dangerous solutions.
No
But my atties pretty much stay put.
Tapatyped
@beckdg
I guess we disagree.
The resistance of the hot spring is pretty low. under 10mR. The resistance of the positive contact is also pretty low again under 10mR. In fact the total resistance of the mod is including the contact resistance is under 25mR. I know because I measured it using a properly calibrated 4 wire micro ohm meter.
Even if your modifications reduced the resistance to 0 (and they can't) and we had a perfect fully charged battery with 0 sag (again impossible) and I round the total mod resistance up to .030R at my usual 1.5R this equates to a difference of around 0.25W.
Adding a small amount of solder to the riveted contact point on the hot spring is not going to change what it is designed to do..... collapse in the event of an unexpected short. (good luck with your M3 bolt collapsing by the way)
Plenty of people have used the small door magnets to create a pip on the top of the flat top batteries, I have not seen anyone reporting any problem with this. I don't use this myself as I don't have any issue with the throw of the button or arcing.
I guess we disagree.
The resistance of the hot spring is pretty low. under 10mR. The resistance of the positive contact is also pretty low again under 10mR. In fact the total resistance of the mod is including the contact resistance is under 25mR. I know because I measured it using a properly calibrated 4 wire micro ohm meter.
Even if your modifications reduced the resistance to 0 (and they can't) and we had a perfect fully charged battery with 0 sag (again impossible) and I round the total mod resistance up to .030R at my usual 1.5R this equates to a difference of around 0.25W.
Adding a small amount of solder to the riveted contact point on the hot spring is not going to change what it is designed to do..... collapse in the event of an unexpected short. (good luck with your M3 bolt collapsing by the way)
Plenty of people have used the small door magnets to create a pip on the top of the flat top batteries, I have not seen anyone reporting any problem with this. I don't use this myself as I don't have any issue with the throw of the button or arcing.
Okay...
So you know numbers.
And I know first hand results. Because I've done this on 5 mods, OG AND clone.
But somehow you know results better than I do.
So why ask?
Tapatyped
So why ask?
OK, I was just trying to work out if the mods are worth it to me. I really don't want to take a drill to a $150 mod without doing some research first.
I am going to order a reo clone, that I would be willing to modify, I can do some testing with the clone's contacts, some genuine contacts and your suggested modifications.
Your experience is a big improvement in performance, my number crunching suggests a small improvement.
I suspect the clone contacts will be the most resistive, followed by the OG, and your mods with the least resistive contacts.
I don't want to get into some kind of argument over this, I just prefer facts and figures over a more subjective view.
If there are significant gains, these will show in the results. If you let me know what your build is I can PM you with the results if you are interested.
OK, I was just trying to work out if the mods are worth it to me. I really don't want to take a drill to a $150 mod without doing some research first.
I am going to order a reo clone, that I would be willing to modify, I can do some testing with the clone's contacts, some genuine contacts and your suggested modifications.
Your experience is a big improvement in performance, my number crunching suggests a small improvement.
I suspect the clone contacts will be the most resistive, followed by the OG, and your mods with the least resistive contacts.
I don't want to get into some kind of argument over this, I just prefer facts and figures over a more subjective view.
If there are significant gains, these will show in the results. If you let me know what your build is I can PM you with the results if you are interested.
Appreciate the offer.So why ask?
OK, I was just trying to work out if the mods are worth it to me. I really don't want to take a drill to a $150 mod without doing some research first.
I am going to order a reo clone, that I would be willing to modify, I can do some testing with the clone's contacts, some genuine contacts and your suggested modifications.
Your experience is a big improvement in performance, my number crunching suggests a small improvement.
I suspect the clone contacts will be the most resistive, followed by the OG, and your mods with the least resistive contacts.
I don't want to get into some kind of argument over this, I just prefer facts and figures over a more subjective view.
If there are significant gains, these will show in the results. If you let me know what your build is I can PM you with the results if you are interested.
I can do the math, actually.
Real world experience is the bottom line though.
Math doesn't tell if only part of the contact makes connection, how moving around in your pocket with a battery installed wears on and creates inconsistent contact on the joint of the hot spring, if the spring wears leaving your solder as the sole connection after a modification, if an unnoticed tear in battery wrap allows your magnet to contact + & - shorting the batt, the many testimonies of many ohm plus vaping folks who've moved to one of the other mods mentioned and noticed immediate harder hits, had to add an extra wrap to their preferred coils and report an extra 2 hours vaping on the same batt that used to only last 8 to 10 hours.
Etc. Etc.
Because while you're calculating the total circuit, your numbers posted ignore what that's doing as far as taking voltage from the coil while wasting it in the contacts.
Tapatyped
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I was not offering to do the maths for you, I am sure you can manage that yourself.
I was offering to measure the actual voltage drop difference across the different types of contacts. (I have access to kit that will allow me to do that very accurately)
I was not recommending the magnet mod as such, I just mentioned that others had done that particular mod and they had experienced less arcing. Its obvious that using this mod with a damaged battery wrap would be unwise. Using a battery with a damaged wrap is not advisable in any circumstance. My personal preference is to use the recommended button top batteries.
Adding a small amount of solder to the riveted joint of the hot spring it not going to cause a problem, it just creates a better mechanical and electrical connection between the base of the spring and the mounting plate. This is one of the areas that causes a small voltage drop, as you have said the spring can move under compression and cause an inconsistent connection, the rivet is the weak point.
Its the total circuit that dictates the current draw and therefore the battery life. My measurements on the standard grand contacts include the contact resistance.
The amount of power wasted across the contacts will vary with the current, as the coil resistance approaches the contact resistance the amount of wasted power will increase.
I've done some examples at different coil resistances to show what I mean.
The above shows the wasted power at different coil resistances, the mod volt drop is the difference between a resistance of 0.030 ohms that I measured, and zero. What ever you use instead as a positive and negative connection will have some resistance, and some contact resistance it is unavoidable.
I would guess the realistic volt drop difference between modified and unmodified would be around 0.3 to 0.4 volts when using a 0.2 ohm coil, at the maximum battery voltage. This would certainly be a noticeable difference. The difference however would be much less when using a higher ohm coil.
There is no one size fits all solution, we all have different preferences, and different attitudes to the apparent risks of using a magnet, or removing the hot spring, or low sub ohm vaping. No right and wrong just different.
Some people don't even squonk ffs.
I was offering to measure the actual voltage drop difference across the different types of contacts. (I have access to kit that will allow me to do that very accurately)
I was not recommending the magnet mod as such, I just mentioned that others had done that particular mod and they had experienced less arcing. Its obvious that using this mod with a damaged battery wrap would be unwise. Using a battery with a damaged wrap is not advisable in any circumstance. My personal preference is to use the recommended button top batteries.
Adding a small amount of solder to the riveted joint of the hot spring it not going to cause a problem, it just creates a better mechanical and electrical connection between the base of the spring and the mounting plate. This is one of the areas that causes a small voltage drop, as you have said the spring can move under compression and cause an inconsistent connection, the rivet is the weak point.
Its the total circuit that dictates the current draw and therefore the battery life. My measurements on the standard grand contacts include the contact resistance.
The amount of power wasted across the contacts will vary with the current, as the coil resistance approaches the contact resistance the amount of wasted power will increase.
I've done some examples at different coil resistances to show what I mean.
The above shows the wasted power at different coil resistances, the mod volt drop is the difference between a resistance of 0.030 ohms that I measured, and zero. What ever you use instead as a positive and negative connection will have some resistance, and some contact resistance it is unavoidable.
I would guess the realistic volt drop difference between modified and unmodified would be around 0.3 to 0.4 volts when using a 0.2 ohm coil, at the maximum battery voltage. This would certainly be a noticeable difference. The difference however would be much less when using a higher ohm coil.
There is no one size fits all solution, we all have different preferences, and different attitudes to the apparent risks of using a magnet, or removing the hot spring, or low sub ohm vaping. No right and wrong just different.
Some people don't even squonk ffs.
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There's a lot of fine points we're not seeing eye to eye on... and apparently won't.
I'll agree to disagree on most at this point.
But this statement is counter intuitive in several ways.
Bottom line is less current in a mech due to higher resistance anywhere in the mod itself makes for;
Less circuit current
AND
Less battery life
A vaper is looking to get a preferred hit. When the coil is robbed of performance from the mod, ramp up times and drag times increase to accommodate that preferred hit. This results in more battery capacity used per hit and possibly more drags in the same time frame to achieve the same satisfaction.
This has not been quantified accurately in an electrical theory that I've seen to date.
It's a result of real world usage.
Just FYI; If you're going to do that modification on a clone, you'll probably want to get an OG button and button top, drill out the paint in the clone and install them. It can be a stiff throw for quite some time and depending on your skin will result in nasty calluses or broken skin on your trigger thumb if using the tiny clone button.
Tapatyped
@beckdg.
Thanks for the information on the clone. They seem to be out of stock at the moment in most places I have tried. I am interested to see if there is a huge difference in terms of quality. Although I do own a genuine grand I get pretty sick and tired of the petty name calling some reo users get involved in.
I guess we have just approached the same problems from different perspectives. I went the higher ohm higher nic route, to get the vape and battery life that suits me. You went the modification route, for a harder hitting mod. Just imagine how boring it would be if everyone had exactly the same preferences. The end result is we are both happy with our own solutions.
Thanks for the information on the clone. They seem to be out of stock at the moment in most places I have tried. I am interested to see if there is a huge difference in terms of quality. Although I do own a genuine grand I get pretty sick and tired of the petty name calling some reo users get involved in.
I guess we have just approached the same problems from different perspectives. I went the higher ohm higher nic route, to get the vape and battery life that suits me. You went the modification route, for a harder hitting mod. Just imagine how boring it would be if everyone had exactly the same preferences. The end result is we are both happy with our own solutions.
Just wondering- Do you have a picture of this setup? Me wanna see.
Actually, I just did some testing.Just wondering- Do you have a picture of this setup? Me wanna see.
First run kinda sucked, so I'll link 2 vids. Since the OG Reo "sub ohm" pos contact is a lighter touch and the neg spring keeps the batt snug against the top... and I was using 1 hand while balancing the mods and holding a camera phone... I was triggering the OG contact mod first for half the vid. Doh...
So here's the coil I tested. ..
And here's the vid where I was triggering the OG contact mod first...
And here I fixed the problem by propping up the phone and hammering down on the buttons...
That little bit of ramp up difference...
With added cooling from joose...
And air flow...
Throughout the course of a day can mean a couple more hours of vape time on a 3000mah cell.
For A Tootle Puffer Like My Wife
Who, by the way, now that I returned good contacts into her Reo... is enjoying that build with some Mewlews Magic.
But I think you wanted to see some guts...
Which I just within the hour deleted half a dozen pics of from my phone.
In the last month, I posted some going back and forth with pdib showing off our reo mod modifications. That would be in the Li'l Pinch thread in the modders/accessories subforum.
For now this is all I can do...
Pos contact...
Neg contact...
Tapatyped
I went the higher watt... MUCH higher nic route.
I modified my reos for me for high wattage and nearly no maintenance.
Also for my wife for longer vape times at around 1 ohm.
BTW, I Vape 50mg @ 80 watts.
And all in mechanical bottom feeders.
Tapatyped
The parts are made for guys like you, who come here with attitude and start poking everyone for no reason.
Second reason why are the parts available is the fact that most dudes like you are noobs who don't have an idea what mech mod means and they burn contacts by creating a short.
I would advise you to fix your behavior when everyone is behaving nicely to you ( i have a short trigger, i tried to stay aside but eventually couldn't any more) and listen what they have to say, who knows, if you listen carefully maybe you'll realize there's a handfull of good advices and straight answers. However if you don't, you will see a fanboy talk (that's called self suggestion, when you read only what you want instead of whole sentence), and noone can't help u then other then your self by going for what you think is the smartest idea and buy some more clones and cloned contacts.
One question tho: why do u think every better mod maker haves a spare parts for the mods he makes? Because they will fail? No. It's because someone will accidentally broke something and there's no way to replace it other then buy a spare part. It's called customer service ya know?
Thanks for the pics, Beckdg! I suppose haters gonna hate, but IMO this "direct" negative post is no more or less "safe" than most tube mechs. I like it; I want to try this with brass hardware.
I cannot understand the bitter hatred towards the fake Reo; Some people simply cannot afford a $130.00+++ mod and would never consider an authentic Reo for that reason alone. So the clone will never hurt Reo's bottom line, IMO. I wonder if people are hating on me for making my own mech bottom feeders instead of buying Reos, LOL. {The mod pictured in my profile cost me less than $25.00 to make. Does that make me a cheapskate?}
IMO, whatever we have to do to keep from EVER smoking another cigarette is OK with me. Vape on
I cannot understand the bitter hatred towards the fake Reo; Some people simply cannot afford a $130.00+++ mod and would never consider an authentic Reo for that reason alone. So the clone will never hurt Reo's bottom line, IMO. I wonder if people are hating on me for making my own mech bottom feeders instead of buying Reos, LOL. {The mod pictured in my profile cost me less than $25.00 to make. Does that make me a cheapskate?}
IMO, whatever we have to do to keep from EVER smoking another cigarette is OK with me.
Vape on
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It's not about fakes and originals. It's about people ask a question and then become rude when someone points out straight and simple fact. It's not 600% margin, and original parts are better then cloned ones because cloned contacts are not even made of SS, it's some iron that rusts in water. And that's the simple truth. It all comes down to what someone want's or can afford, but when you get the answers at least you can show some respect and be polite towards the people that are trying to help you. Noone attacked him due to the fact he owns a clone, and i would be the last one to do so. I just get cranky when i see rude people thinking they are the smartest in the world, that's all. PeaceThanks for the pics, Beckdg! I suppose haters gonna hate, but IMO this "direct" negative post is no more or less "safe" than most tube mechs. I like it; I want to try this with brass hardware.
I cannot understand the bitter hatred towards the fake Reo; Some people simply cannot afford a $130.00+++ mod and would never consider an authentic Reo for that reason alone. So the clone will never hurt Reo's bottom line, IMO. I wonder if people are hating on me for making my own mech bottom feeders instead of buying Reos, LOL. {The mod pictured in my profile cost me less than $25.00 to make. Does that make me a cheapskate?}
IMO, whatever we have to do to keep from EVER smoking another cigarette is OK with me.
I went the higher watt... MUCH higher nic route.
I modified my reos for me for high wattage and nearly no maintenance.
Also for my wife for longer vape times at around 1 ohm.
BTW, I Vape 50mg @ 80 watts.
And all in mechanical bottom feeders.
Tapatyped
50mg @ 80 watts. yikes. I am at 11mg @ 10 watts. Maybe I should try some hi nic beckdg style, my battery life would be measured in days / weeks rather than hours!
LOL50mg @ 80 watts. yikes. I am at 11mg @ 10 watts. Maybe I should try some hi nic beckdg style, my battery life would be measured in days / weeks rather than hours!
Tapatyped
To be fair, Rob is a really cool dude.Thanks for the pics, Beckdg! I suppose haters gonna hate, but IMO this "direct" negative post is no more or less "safe" than most tube mechs. I like it; I want to try this with brass hardware.
I cannot understand the bitter hatred towards the fake Reo; Some people simply cannot afford a $130.00+++ mod and would never consider an authentic Reo for that reason alone. So the clone will never hurt Reo's bottom line, IMO. I wonder if people are hating on me for making my own mech bottom feeders instead of buying Reos, LOL. {The mod pictured in my profile cost me less than $25.00 to make. Does that make me a cheapskate?}
IMO, whatever we have to do to keep from EVER smoking another cigarette is OK with me.
I think people's defense of the device reflects that.
Though, too far, too ridiculous and too much childish kicking and screaming is, well... too much.
Tapatyped
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