I am having problems changing back to V3.00, all of the versions are in the file but I just can't go back....any idea's
WISMEC Reuleaux RX200 TC
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I would like to point out that my experiment was a failure....
The part on the board that burns out is right on top of the positive usb charge wire...its super tiny and its has an s4 on it. The spot on the board is labled D4... result after removing and installing a jumper with solder was a burnt out board to use as a template for modding..[emoji16]
Ps..Board powers on but its fried!!!
The part on the board that burns out is right on top of the positive usb charge wire...its super tiny and its has an s4 on it. The spot on the board is labled D4... result after removing and installing a jumper with solder was a burnt out board to use as a template for modding..[emoji16]
Ps..Board powers on but its fried!!!
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Seriously, you know that diode looks like it is between B+ and ground to me. Does nothing if the batteries are connected correctly. But shorts the batteries if the batteries are inserted in reverse (protecting the rest of the board). The DNA200 has the same diode, but the DNA200 has a 25A fuse that blows if the polarity is reversed. If D4 does what I think it does, there should be something like a fuse that will remove the batteries from the rest of the circuit. Although I thought I heard the RX200 used something like a FET for reverse battery protection.
Here is another picture of a RX200 PCB. There is something on the bottom between the red and black wires. A black box. What does that say if you can read it?
I would like to point out that my experiment was a failure....
The part on the board that burns out is right on top of the positive usb charge wire...its super tiny and its has an s4 on it. The spot on the board is labled D4... result after removing and installing a jumper with solder was a burnt out board to use as a template for modding..[emoji16]
Ps..Board powers on but its fried!!!
It was burned and the one i found on another board was to big...just trying to find way around the usb part, Im just experimenting.. its funny because i down graded and upgraded with no problem. all the fuctions work except the same check battey bs and not reading the atty, notings getting hot, Im only using 5 to 6v power. I dont think i can hurt myself with that other then messing up an already messed up board....
Ps. Im going to have fun with this board one way or another. I cant use it for vaping so i can use it to improve my soldering skills...[emoji12]
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@badinfluence357: I don't know how far you will get without the cell taps (usually called the balance taps) being connected? As the PCB is getting the message that at least two cells are reading zero and it probably will not ever fire. I would think all you would see is either Imbalance or Check Battery errors and that is it. You could fool those taps by using resistors. between B+ and ground. I don't know if it will fire either with 5 to 6v of power either. What are you using for power, a power supply?
Correct! Im using a power supply so i can give it more power if needed. What size resistor should i use?
Think i could raise the voltage to about 9 or 10v?
3 Bats 3.7v each, what do you suggest?
I'd think you need to have the voltage at least at 10v in order for the board to function, around 12v to not risk a low battery message. It'll shut down when the batteries are at 9.6-9.9v (3.2-3.3/piece) so 5-6v is definitely too low.
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You will need a voltage divider to fool the battery monitors.
It will take two resistors as shown below:
The formula and online calculator are found here: Voltage Dividers - learn.sparkfun.com
Here is what I'd recommend to keep the current to a minimum.
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It will take two resistors as shown below:
The formula and online calculator are found here: Voltage Dividers - learn.sparkfun.com
Here is what I'd recommend to keep the current to a minimum.
Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk
With the check battery error, what happens when you try to read the voltages using the board? power off, hold minus and fire for 10 seconds
It has been a while since post secondary school and my electronics is a little rusty....
Correct me if I`m wrong, but should it not be 3 resistors? One resister per battery cell?
With the drawing above, you would have 8.4v between Vin to Vout and 4.2v between Vout and Gnd. But the board monitors voltage for all 3 batteries require 3 consistent voltages.
I think you would need 3 equal resistors to provide 3 equal voltage drops between each to wire to the board indicating batteries 1,2 and 3.
Also could you not just use 3.9v diodes and a total voltage of 11.7v off your power supply?
Diode from B+ to b1, b1 to b2, b2 short to ground (b1 and b2 placement could be wrong, these are just my guesses)
If you have a fancy power supply with multiple outputs (3 in this case)
Could you not also wire 3 outputs all set at 3.9v to represent a battery?
Of course you can also just solder in the battery sled again and do your readings off that
It has been a while since post secondary school and my electronics is a little rusty....
Correct me if I`m wrong, but should it not be 3 resistors? One resister per battery cell?
With the drawing above, you would have 8.4v between Vin to Vout and 4.2v between Vout and Gnd. But the board monitors voltage for all 3 batteries require 3 consistent voltages.
I think you would need 3 equal resistors to provide 3 equal voltage drops between each to wire to the board indicating batteries 1,2 and 3.
Also could you not just use 3.9v diodes and a total voltage of 11.7v off your power supply?
Diode from B+ to b1, b1 to b2, b2 short to ground (b1 and b2 placement could be wrong, these are just my guesses)
If you have a fancy power supply with multiple outputs (3 in this case)
Could you not also wire 3 outputs all set at 3.9v to represent a battery?
Of course you can also just solder in the battery sled again and do your readings off that
In this case it doesn't matter what the board sees as long as it is within tolerance. Easiest thing is to tap all three wires at vout and they will all be the same 4.2v.
Another wire from power supply + to b+ and power supply negative to b- for the high current run that actually drives the firing circuitry/regulation.
I am not questioning you theory BlackCRX, but I believe my method is the easiest.
Edit: How many (skinny) wires are running from the battery tray and board? That may make a difference between using a simple divider like I posted above, and an equal 3 resistor divider like BlackCRX is talking about.
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Another wire from power supply + to b+ and power supply negative to b- for the high current run that actually drives the firing circuitry/regulation.
I am not questioning you theory BlackCRX, but I believe my method is the easiest.
Edit: How many (skinny) wires are running from the battery tray and board? That may make a difference between using a simple divider like I posted above, and an equal 3 resistor divider like BlackCRX is talking about.
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We are all in this together for the greater good. If you think my theory is wrong then by all means question me, I am not the ego keyboard bully type.
The question is how does the board check for voltage?
I have not taken mine apart yet but I have seen pictures of the dis assembly many times. With the battery door removed and batteries removed, looking towards it (looking at the battery tray with the display facing the same direction as you. From my understanding, B+ goes to bottom right positive, red wire in b2 goes to top middle positive (which is shorted to negative of the top right battery, black wire in b1 goes to bottom middle negative which is shorted to bottom left positive, top left negative is to ground.
With all this said, my theory is battery voltages are detected based on total voltage minus all drops at each battery.
example,
ground to b1= battery 1
ground to b2 minus b1 = battery 2
ground to postive minus (b1+b2) = battery 3
OR!!
each battery is checked for voltage independently.
First theory would require 3 resistor or diode voltage drops to work
Second theory, atroph 4.2v output to each cell should work
Also if you have remove the battery tray before, you will notice that the red wire in b2 is much longer than all other battery wires which would explain why one battery always shows higher in voltage than the other two, but once remove and tested on a DMM, all batteries are equal.
edit: I was just thinking as I was driving home, and I do not think atroph theory will work.
If the board detects individual cell voltage it would need to be able to switch b1 or b2 to negative in order to get each cell. With atroph method, voltage could not be read correctly since all inputs are showing 4.2v
This means that two cell will show as zero volts
Again, if any of this is incorrect, please don't be shy to say I am wrong.
The question is how does the board check for voltage?
I have not taken mine apart yet but I have seen pictures of the dis assembly many times. With the battery door removed and batteries removed, looking towards it (looking at the battery tray with the display facing the same direction as you. From my understanding, B+ goes to bottom right positive, red wire in b2 goes to top middle positive (which is shorted to negative of the top right battery, black wire in b1 goes to bottom middle negative which is shorted to bottom left positive, top left negative is to ground.
With all this said, my theory is battery voltages are detected based on total voltage minus all drops at each battery.
example,
ground to b1= battery 1
ground to b2 minus b1 = battery 2
ground to postive minus (b1+b2) = battery 3
OR!!
each battery is checked for voltage independently.
First theory would require 3 resistor or diode voltage drops to work
Second theory, atroph 4.2v output to each cell should work
Also if you have remove the battery tray before, you will notice that the red wire in b2 is much longer than all other battery wires which would explain why one battery always shows higher in voltage than the other two, but once remove and tested on a DMM, all batteries are equal.
edit: I was just thinking as I was driving home, and I do not think atroph theory will work.
If the board detects individual cell voltage it would need to be able to switch b1 or b2 to negative in order to get each cell. With atroph method, voltage could not be read correctly since all inputs are showing 4.2v
This means that two cell will show as zero volts
Again, if any of this is incorrect, please don't be shy to say I am wrong.
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I think you are correct.
I have not personally seen the inside of the board and wiring other than the pics above.
We are both thinking correctly, just different methods.
If it is indeed wired like you say then yes an equal resistor voltage divider with say 3 1kohm resistors should do the trick.
I'd still set the source to 12.6 volts and a very low current (100mA??) to begin with. This should should net 4.2Vdrop across each resistor, and if a short were to happen the power supply will trip before anything goes up in smoke.
I have not personally seen the inside of the board and wiring other than the pics above.
We are both thinking correctly, just different methods.
If it is indeed wired like you say then yes an equal resistor voltage divider with say 3 1kohm resistors should do the trick.
I'd still set the source to 12.6 volts and a very low current (100mA??) to begin with. This should should net 4.2Vdrop across each resistor, and if a short were to happen the power supply will trip before anything goes up in smoke.
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Here is the three resistor voltage divider circuit example:
I used this to make the circuit: Circuit Simulator Applet
I used this to make the circuit: Circuit Simulator Applet
And here is how it probably is in real life:
The 10kohm resistor is there to make the circuit. In reality the load (10k resistor) is variable depending on what you have dialed up.
The 10kohm resistor is there to make the circuit. In reality the load (10k resistor) is variable depending on what you have dialed up.
Im going to try both methods. First I need to look in the junk box and find the 3 10k resistors needed.
I'll set it up over the weekend....I use to setup small projects for the kids with fans and stuff but never really dove in pcbs and integrated systems like this.
Im interested in learning how things work with mod boards as everything now is high wattage low ohms vaping with these regulated boards....
I'll set it up over the weekend....I use to setup small projects for the kids with fans and stuff but never really dove in pcbs and integrated systems like this.
Im interested in learning how things work with mod boards as everything now is high wattage low ohms vaping with these regulated boards....
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