Under D4 there are 4 other components in the white box. Can you please get a super close up picture of that section or read what the labels are? I can see from the picture you posted that one of them is labeled r2.
WISMEC Reuleaux RX200 TC
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Can you measure each of the resistors and provide a reading please?
The reason I am asking is because sometimes manufactures will use small ohm resistors as fuses.
The reason I am asking is because sometimes manufactures will use small ohm resistors as fuses.
So I tossed a .14 nickel coil on my Mako Shorty and have been having a hard time getting a satisfying vape with my RX, even with TCR.
I've got a Cuboid and a Pico and am getting a great vape with this atomizer on both of them. I've got the TCR set to 652 on the Cuboid and 656 on the Pico and both are doing splendid at 48W and anywhere from 420-480F.
Setting the watts and temperature the same and the TCR in a similar range on the RX is super weak. I tried a number of different TCR settings from 640-690 and it seemed to be hitting temp protection really quick. I honestly haven't tried cranking up the temp yet but I'd rather not if I don't have to, would rather see if anyone has any other ideas first.
I realize it's possible this device is just not the best either at TC or specifically with nickel, and fortunately I do think the vape I'm getting from the Cuboid and Pico are quite good so there's always those. I would just love to get this going on the RX, too.
I've got a Cuboid and a Pico and am getting a great vape with this atomizer on both of them. I've got the TCR set to 652 on the Cuboid and 656 on the Pico and both are doing splendid at 48W and anywhere from 420-480F.
Setting the watts and temperature the same and the TCR in a similar range on the RX is super weak. I tried a number of different TCR settings from 640-690 and it seemed to be hitting temp protection really quick. I honestly haven't tried cranking up the temp yet but I'd rather not if I don't have to, would rather see if anyone has any other ideas first.
I realize it's possible this device is just not the best either at TC or specifically with nickel, and fortunately I do think the vape I'm getting from the Cuboid and Pico are quite good so there's always those. I would just love to get this going on the RX, too.
Odd. It may be the wicking or airflow (not familiar with the mako).
I have used ni200 exclusively (3mm 8 wrap 28G .13-.12 ohms velocity RDA) on my RX and always get a great vape between 400-500F at 50W depending on my juice viscosity. I use the stock ni mode too.
I have experienced where if the mod was cold (maybe outside in 60F weather) it would hit harder, and conversely if the mod was hot (like sitting inside of a car) it hit a little weak. +/- 10-20 F usually brings it right back in line for me.
FWIW I never look at the screen while vaping. I could care less if it hits temp protection. The devil lies in the details of how it vapes.
Maybe try a rewick/recoil??
Could be a dud too....
I have used ni200 exclusively (3mm 8 wrap 28G .13-.12 ohms velocity RDA) on my RX and always get a great vape between 400-500F at 50W depending on my juice viscosity. I use the stock ni mode too.
I have experienced where if the mod was cold (maybe outside in 60F weather) it would hit harder, and conversely if the mod was hot (like sitting inside of a car) it hit a little weak. +/- 10-20 F usually brings it right back in line for me.
FWIW I never look at the screen while vaping. I could care less if it hits temp protection. The devil lies in the details of how it vapes.
Maybe try a rewick/recoil??
Could be a dud too....
Are you sure you don't have that backwards? Also I experimented on my two RX200 and it acts just like the DNA200 as far as whether you lock ohms or not. Both don't have to be locked on ohms in TC mode. What they do is to grab the lowest ohms it ever runs across with that atty attached. Locking the ohms I believe locks in the lowest ohms it remembers and will not update it with a newer lower ohm resistance. Locking ohms is handy if you remove the batteries (as it forgets what the lowest ohms was), go outside and the temperature is different, or your ohms isn't very stable.
Nope it is internal temp dependant to the mod only and not the coil resistance. This internal temp is the reference that the mod uses to calculate how much ohms increase is needed to reach target temps.
I usually lock my resistance once it has settled to its lowest point +/-0.01 ohm.
Last weekend I went camping. In the morning it was about 50F and the mod hit super hard and I had to back off the temp. Later on in the day when the outside temp reached about 75F I had to re-up the temp to get back to "normal".
I also experience this while driving. On short trips I keep the mod between my legs and it gets warmer as opposed to ambient air. This causes it to hit weaker than if it was sitting on my desk, or cup holder.
Also if I go shopping and leave my mod in the car during midday sun it will hit rather weak and I have to up the temp.
I usually lock my resistance once it has settled to its lowest point +/-0.01 ohm.
Last weekend I went camping. In the morning it was about 50F and the mod hit super hard and I had to back off the temp. Later on in the day when the outside temp reached about 75F I had to re-up the temp to get back to "normal".
I also experience this while driving. On short trips I keep the mod between my legs and it gets warmer as opposed to ambient air. This causes it to hit weaker than if it was sitting on my desk, or cup holder.
Also if I go shopping and leave my mod in the car during midday sun it will hit rather weak and I have to up the temp.
@atroph: Odd all 14 of my TC mods gives a colder vape if the coil(s) is under 70°F than the temperature setting. And if I put on say a warm coil(s) at 200°F, it will be about 130°F warmer than the temperature setting. Most TC mods assumes the cold resistance is at 70°F. My four DNA200 mods does too, but they also monitor the room temperature and factors this in and knows if cold resistance isn't at 70°F.
TC mods don't assume cold resistance @ 70F. It knows what ambient is and assumes that the coil is the same temp when installed and presumably locked. If not locked the resistance will actually decrease if the ambient temp reads colder and it detects a lower resistance. (assuming that the mod is awake and monitoring resistance and temp of ambient air)
Hmmmm. Now that I think about it I wonder if locking the resistance keeps that resistance no matter what ambient is. This would account for the blast when cold and weakness when heated.
For instance if coil temp/resistance was locked at 70F and 0.13 ohms a drop to 50F would say net a 0.11 ohm coil. However if the mod says I don't care about the now lower resistance I am firing into a 0.13 ohm load no matter what. The programming algorithm should account for this change from its locked point, however I don't believe it does.
Hmmmm. Now that I think about it I wonder if locking the resistance keeps that resistance no matter what ambient is. This would account for the blast when cold and weakness when heated.
For instance if coil temp/resistance was locked at 70F and 0.13 ohms a drop to 50F would say net a 0.11 ohm coil. However if the mod says I don't care about the now lower resistance I am firing into a 0.13 ohm load no matter what. The programming algorithm should account for this change from its locked point, however I don't believe it does.
@atroph: How could that be? Coils can be varies of resistances. The mod has no idea if your 0.10 ohm coil is suppose to be cold resistance. I could chain vape off of it and then swap it on another mod. The new mod doesn't have any idea whether that coil is at room temperature or not. And reading the resistance doesn't tell it anything, because it doesn't know what the cold resistance is. It needs this baseline to figure out the real temperature. Otherwise it is just guessing.
Here is what happens. We have a Ni200 coil say at 0.10 ohms at 70°F. The mod knows this as cold resistance. And let's say we are using TC at 400°F. When we fire the coil, the mod is going to throw whatever wattage we set it at and monitor the live ohms. It won't change a thing until the resistance increases to 0.20 ohms. And will drop the voltage is it goes over 0.20 ohms and raise the voltage if it goes under 0.20 ohms. Thus keeping the temperature at 400°F regardless of airflow or juice flow.
Now let's say it is in the middle of winter and you left your atty in the car and it is 0°F. You come out there and attach it to your mod. Now it sees your 0.10 ohm coil at say 0.07 ohm or something. It thinks this is the cold resistance. And it figures double this resistance is about 400°F. Well when the ohms reaches 0.14 ohm, it regulates it right there. That won't be at 400°F, but something more like only 160°F. It has to get to 0.20 ohms again to reach 400°F for real. But the mod doesn't know this. Well a DNA200 would, but not other mods. A mod needs to know what cold resistance is at around 70°F. Or the calibration will be off.
Here is what happens. We have a Ni200 coil say at 0.10 ohms at 70°F. The mod knows this as cold resistance. And let's say we are using TC at 400°F. When we fire the coil, the mod is going to throw whatever wattage we set it at and monitor the live ohms. It won't change a thing until the resistance increases to 0.20 ohms. And will drop the voltage is it goes over 0.20 ohms and raise the voltage if it goes under 0.20 ohms. Thus keeping the temperature at 400°F regardless of airflow or juice flow.
Now let's say it is in the middle of winter and you left your atty in the car and it is 0°F. You come out there and attach it to your mod. Now it sees your 0.10 ohm coil at say 0.07 ohm or something. It thinks this is the cold resistance. And it figures double this resistance is about 400°F. Well when the ohms reaches 0.14 ohm, it regulates it right there. That won't be at 400°F, but something more like only 160°F. It has to get to 0.20 ohms again to reach 400°F for real. But the mod doesn't know this. Well a DNA200 would, but not other mods. A mod needs to know what cold resistance is at around 70°F. Or the calibration will be off.
I understand clearly how TC mods work and disagree with your 70 F reference logic. It shouldn't matter if the coil is installed in a freezer or desert. It just needs to know that once the coil has settled it reads x resistance by y temperature. The RX has an ambient air temp sensor in it so that covers the y part.
@atroph: Well if the RX200 also knows what the ambient air temperature is (the only right way to do TC IMHO), then everything is fine (why didn't you say that in the first place, or did you?). I guess you would still be in trouble running outside with your nice warm mod and attaching it to your freezing 0°F atty in your car (or the mod is out in the car and the atty came from inside). But how often would that happen anyway? 
I agree with certain points made by BillW50 as well as atroph.
I believe the board uses internal resting temp in relation to the coil resistance to set a baseline.
atroph, I believe I can also explain to you why your cold coils hits extra hard in the cold... it is because you locked your resistance. Example purposes, all numbers and figures are just that, not real calculations, you build your coil at room temp 70F, coil resistance is 0.10ohm, target resistance for set temp is 0.20ohm. When the ambient temp drops to 40F the mod is still using the 0.10ohm coil resistance that it has been locked it, when in reality the coil resistance should be 0.08ohm. Now the mod will try and reach 0.20ohm to hit target temp instead of 0.18ohm which is the correct calibrated resistance. Vice versa for hot days or hot ambient temps.
The mod in theory should never assume 70F as ambient temp because climate changes around the world, setting it for 70F as a standard would be incorrect or dare I even say ignorant.
I am not sure how many of you guys had Evic VTC mini back in the day, but they had a huge problem with hitting temp protection and producing no vapor at all in cold weather. I was able to recreate it every time and emailed Joyetech. Every time ambient temp went below 15C it would not produce any vapor and hit temp protection instantly. I think it was due to the way Joyetech calibrated the resting ambient temp to coil temp. After a few emails and test firmwares, they were able to resolve this issue completely.
I also have an example of ambient temp vs coil resistance. I built a coil for my crown rba before I left for my vacation, single 26 gauge ss wire, 0.45ohm. Vaped great in Vancouver prior to boarding the plane. I landed in Thailand and had a ....ty as vape, chalked it up to heat and humidity. I took off the coil, reset the mod, installed the same coil and setup... 0.47-0.48ohm and vaped awesome.
Personally for me, I never lock my resistance on my setups. I actually make it a habit to make the mod learn the coil resistance. My current setup is dual 28 gauge coil at 0.45-0.47 depending on which mod or tank I use. I would install my tank, let it register a the coil 0.45-0.47, fire it till it hits temp at 420, quickly unscrew the tank and screw it back down, get the new coil and say yes, usually around 0.5-0.52ohm. I would wait 5-10mins and wake up the mod, this gives the mod and coil time to cool down and correctly calibrate for temp.
These are just my personal opinions and theories, please correct me if I'm wrong or provided incorrect info.
Sorry for the longs post....
I believe the board uses internal resting temp in relation to the coil resistance to set a baseline.
atroph, I believe I can also explain to you why your cold coils hits extra hard in the cold... it is because you locked your resistance. Example purposes, all numbers and figures are just that, not real calculations, you build your coil at room temp 70F, coil resistance is 0.10ohm, target resistance for set temp is 0.20ohm. When the ambient temp drops to 40F the mod is still using the 0.10ohm coil resistance that it has been locked it, when in reality the coil resistance should be 0.08ohm. Now the mod will try and reach 0.20ohm to hit target temp instead of 0.18ohm which is the correct calibrated resistance. Vice versa for hot days or hot ambient temps.
The mod in theory should never assume 70F as ambient temp because climate changes around the world, setting it for 70F as a standard would be incorrect or dare I even say ignorant.
I am not sure how many of you guys had Evic VTC mini back in the day, but they had a huge problem with hitting temp protection and producing no vapor at all in cold weather. I was able to recreate it every time and emailed Joyetech. Every time ambient temp went below 15C it would not produce any vapor and hit temp protection instantly. I think it was due to the way Joyetech calibrated the resting ambient temp to coil temp. After a few emails and test firmwares, they were able to resolve this issue completely.
I also have an example of ambient temp vs coil resistance. I built a coil for my crown rba before I left for my vacation, single 26 gauge ss wire, 0.45ohm. Vaped great in Vancouver prior to boarding the plane. I landed in Thailand and had a ....ty as vape, chalked it up to heat and humidity. I took off the coil, reset the mod, installed the same coil and setup... 0.47-0.48ohm and vaped awesome.
Personally for me, I never lock my resistance on my setups. I actually make it a habit to make the mod learn the coil resistance. My current setup is dual 28 gauge coil at 0.45-0.47 depending on which mod or tank I use. I would install my tank, let it register a the coil 0.45-0.47, fire it till it hits temp at 420, quickly unscrew the tank and screw it back down, get the new coil and say yes, usually around 0.5-0.52ohm. I would wait 5-10mins and wake up the mod, this gives the mod and coil time to cool down and correctly calibrate for temp.
These are just my personal opinions and theories, please correct me if I'm wrong or provided incorrect info.
Sorry for the longs post....
@atroph: Well if the RX200 also knows what the ambient air temperature is (the only right way to do TC IMHO), then everything is fine (why didn't you say that in the first place, or did you?). I guess you would still be in trouble running outside with your nice warm mod and attaching it to your freezing 0°F atty in your car (or the mod is out in the car and the atty came from inside). But how often would that happen anyway?
Actually, for some ppl quick often. Not to that extreme but still a difference in ambient temp.
I go to the gym at 6am in the morning and it is sometimes very cold. Before I would leave my vape in the car, after I'm done around 730am and get back to my car, my mod is ice cold. Vapes like ...., juice is almost like honey and won't wick correctly. Now I just bring it in and put it in the locker, vapes like a champ when I'm leaving at 730am
Yup you hit the nail on the head. I think I mentioned that earlier after thinking about it (WISMEC Reuleaux RX200 TC). The mods reference is 0.13 ohms at any temperature (ambient air). The only time it "hits" correctly is if the ambient air is at what the coil was built on. You would figure that there would be an algorithm within the code to compensate for the colder ambient air. Heck it knows two of the three variables needed already (ambient air temp and TCR). It would then calculate the coil resistance at its new ambient air temp vice what was locked and then determine the resistance rise to get to temperature.
The RX is really the only mod that I have locked religiously because it would flip to "new coil / same coil" screen every once in awhile. I don't have time to look at a screen and push buttons while driving down the road.
Hi guys. I'm using the rx200 with the griffin. With simple Kanthal A1 24ga 8 wrapt at 2.5mm i was at 0.39ohm and very fast vape. Now, with clapton kanthal 26 with 32ga with 7 wrapt on 3mm at 0.50ohm i get like almost 2 seconds delay to fire. Is it because of the build? Thank you
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@andreidumitrescu: Yes, I would think that the Clapton coil takes longer to warm up than the Kanthal 24g. The 32g Kanthal doesn't have any current to speak of threw it and gets its heat from the 26g part.
Thanks for the answer I will go back the simple kanthal asap
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I will go back the simple kanthal asapSent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
If you want to keep using or keep trying the clapton you can always raise the wattage.Thanks for the answer
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Keep in mind the resistance is also difference, your simple dual 24 is resting at 0.39ohm and your clapton is at 0.5ohm.
Even if you had the same gauge wire and simple coil, a difference of 0.1ohm in coil resistance will require more wattage to fire.
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