110 is working much better. Thank you!! I dont know why they say 0094 with ss on this rx. It does not work well at all set like that.
WISMEC Reuleaux RX200 TC
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Lol
This is exactly what I was talking about; confusion about what to do with this 316 wire. Use the stock setting? Use the manual setting, and if so, what value ?
Attached image is what people like to show when it comes to TCR, makes it look like the value is depending on the ohms. (.5 on 92)
Guess it's a semi-never ending story as not only the build is a variable, but also the vaper's desire how his vape should be is a personal opinion/variable
This is exactly what I was talking about; confusion about what to do with this 316 wire. Use the stock setting? Use the manual setting, and if so, what value ?
Attached image is what people like to show when it comes to TCR, makes it look like the value is depending on the ohms. (.5 on 92)
Guess it's a semi-never ending story as not only the build is a variable, but also the vaper's desire how his vape should be is a personal opinion/variable
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True i dont know that the temp is reading right now but .23 ohms and tcr of 120 is working great on the 316 for me. Stock setting works good too but what is the tcr of the stock i wonder. Edit that was 125 tcr
From my understanding, SS316L TCR ranges from 88-92 depending on the temperature of the wire.
That chart is only a guide for temperature accuracy. At 0.5ohm with TCR 0.00092, every 0.005ohm change in coil resistance equals 11 degrees. At 0.25ohm with the same TCR of 0.00092, every 0.005ohm change in coil resistance equals 22 degrees.
In the early stages of temp control a lot of ppl using SS316L wire was building coils around 0.1-.2ohm and was complaining about a pulsing feeling from the vape (hot and cold). This was due to the mod trying to regulate temp but was only able to do so at a large variance.
I think I read somewhere one issue effecting Stainless Steel for vaping was the formulation of the metal, as one vendor's 316L, might be slightly different than another. Combine this with the extremely minute resistance changes of Stainless Steel to begin with....even a slight variation in the makeup of the metal will make a huge impact to it's use in vaping using temperature with TCR.....
I know I have adjusted mine between 88-108 depending on the wire, and coils....Once I seem to have the TCR adjusted, the temperature does seem consistent, no idea if it's the temperature I have set..... since I don't have an IR thermometer.
I know I have adjusted mine between 88-108 depending on the wire, and coils....Once I seem to have the TCR adjusted, the temperature does seem consistent, no idea if it's the temperature I have set..... since I don't have an IR thermometer.
Same here. I have to raise TCR to 120 to get a vape like the default SS setting. Anything less and I get a weak, cool vape.
Hi everyone! I'm looking for some help with a mod I'm building. I'm a bit rough on my things, and my sigelei has quite a few battle scars, I work in steel stamping, so I decided I would build a 'more durable' chassis and throw a chip in from an RX200 someone gave me, as long as I promised to destroy it. So I destroyed everything but the chip, following their instructions. I've made my new chassis, supporting 3 26650s in series, almost everything is wired up and soldered into place, but for some reason I'm getting low battery messages, and the mod wont fire. I'm wondering how "inteligent" the chip is and if it's seeing higher capacity batteries with 40amp safeties and throwing a fit? Or maybe I just messed something up durring the wiring. Anyone have experience with remoding the RX200?
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Heard of a lot of people taking the chip out of the mod & replacing w/ a DNA200 - you are the first i ever heard of who destroyed the mod to get the chip! Pretty unique!
That chip is just reading the battery cell voltages and reporting a low voltage on one or more cells. What are the individual cell voltages reading?
With out getting a multi-meter to measure them specifically I wouldn't know but all three are Efest 26650s at 3.7v. Even with all three fully charged I still get the low battery fault, and the display shows a completely dead battery icon thats flashing. Before I got it rewired, one of the battery monitor wires was broken, it would say check battery, but I finally got the wiring done and now it just says low battery. I don't know if it means anything, but the chips on the back are getting really hot just with the batteries in.
I'm not 100% sure but did you also keep the original battery sled for the RX200? I pretty sure it has some wires on there that are for monitoring the individual cells, and might also be for charging...
What do you mean by "batteries with 40amp safeties " exactly what batteries are you trying to use? They're not some type of button top batteries, the same you would use with flash lights are they? The reason I ask, is batteries used for vaping don't really have safeties per say...and as far as I know there are NO real 40amp 18650 batteries..... Does it fire for a bit, and then give the warning?
I'm not using 18650s, I'm using 26650s. I built a whole new platform, I'll post pictures of the new internals in a few minutes. I don't have the box welded together yet so you'll have to just imaging a box.
Ok... Here's the thing...There are VERY few 26650 batteries that are even as good as 18650s. It could very well be your batteries. I'm not sure though.... There have been plenty of 26650 batteries marked at 40+ amps, that are REALLY 10 - 17 amp batteries.... efest imren, etc...
See -->
Imren Green 40A 3200mAh 18650 Bench Retest Results...just 17A, the purple Imren 3000mAh rewrapped! • /r/electronic_cigarette
Only 17amps.. but there are others that are worse.....
As a test, will it fire at something really low, like 10 watts without a low battery error?
At this point I am not saying it is the batteries... Exactly what are they, we can look them up and potentially eliminate them....??
Here is a list of 26650s that would be ok to use -- >
Top Performers (in alphabetical order)
- AWT Yellow 75A 4500mAh
- Basen Black 4500mAh
- Brillipower Green 80A 4500mAh
- Efest Green 20A 4200mAh
26650 Battery Bench Test Results and New Ratings Table
Hopefully those show up alright. Its a single 26650 sled backed up against a double 26650 sled, wired to the RX200 chip. 510 connector was removed so I could weld it to the top plate. Once the wiring is worked out I'll weld the box around the trays, they sit in channels in the side of the box and float but will end up having their "wings" melted into the channels which will then be filled and the whole unit will be painted. The process has a few more steps but that's the short version of what's left to do.
They are Efest purples, they were not that expensive so batteries might actually be the problem, good call.
https://goo.gl/photos/aHfrgr3PKUz38Ytj8
https://goo.gl/photos/JF2Hrnt6zsemPA4M7
https://goo.gl/photos/UKzh8pQ3dF7RHKjB6
https://goo.gl/photos/aHfrgr3PKUz38Ytj8
https://goo.gl/photos/JF2Hrnt6zsemPA4M7
https://goo.gl/photos/UKzh8pQ3dF7RHKjB6
I'm not much an electronics guy but can you de-solder the current battery tray and replace with the rx200 one with 18650s in to see if the problem is somewhere battery/battery sled related or in the rest of the circuitry? Might be quicker to troubleshoot that way than waiting for known good batteries?
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Technically yes, it's possible to do, but not with what I have from the original chassis. It wasn't destroyed in the tear down process, but it was later destroyed. The other problem is, I don't have any 18650 batteries either. I could try asking a friend of mine if he would let me "tinker" with his RX200, but he might get a little nervous. Sometimes when I work on cars I ask for micro sledges when they're completely unneccessary, but find semi-legit uses for them, and he doesn't exactly know how to react. I think if I told him I needed to take his appart and run wires to his battery tray, he would probably tell me no. But I will ask.
With RX200 turned off, hold FIRE and DOWN for a few seconds and it will display the battery voltage in each battery as the board is sensing them. That is what I was asking you to do. Wouldn't hurt to have a multimeter.
Did you connect the batteries in series with one balance wire from the board connected between the 1st & 2nd & the other balance wire between the 2nd & 3rd battery? Did you hook up the wires to the batteries in the same sequence wire for wire?
It way also be that this person who gave you this mod with specific instructions to destroy it did so because the board itself was malfunctioning.
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I will try that when I get home. When I finished the wiring I took it home. I get off in about 4 hours, I can let you know as soon as I get to it.
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