Youde Goblin

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JoeVan

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How many versions of this thing are around? Am I right that the newest version is supplied with the two tanks? Is that the defining feature?

The defining feature of the Goblin is the airflow. :)

The biggest change from v1 to v2/v1.2 is the two tank sizes, and longer screws for the pos/neg posts. I got the v1 and needed to get bigger screws for it. Triangle hooked me up no charge (when they got the screws), because it was a known issue. I thought they fixed the fill screw problem too, but turns out I was wrong about that.
 

TheotherSteveS

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The defining feature of the Goblin is the airflow. :)

The biggest change from v1 to v2/v1.2 is the two tank sizes, and longer screws for the pos/neg posts. I got the v1 and needed to get bigger screws for it. Triangle hooked me up no charge (when they got the screws), because it was a known issue. I thought they fixed the fill screw problem too, but turns out I was wrong about that.


Ok thanx for that. So I have seen v1.1 advertised - is that just v1??
 

johentie

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so maybe this wasn't the best RTA to get as a beginner builder... it wasn't too bad once i found my 2.0mm screwdriver...
but some of the things I want to ask:
1) what is the highest ohm that is possible on the goblin? my first build i did 9 wraps and it comes out to 0.5ohms.. which is expected.. i'd like to get 0.8ohm but i dunno if that's possible with the small deck
2) anyone have issue with the new screws? the walls are soo thin that i striped one already.
3) my o-ring at the bottom is actually on the glass... anyone have this ? i have the version that comes with the larger glass as an add on

so far it's good.. just went out for my first try and the airflow is good.. maybe a tad bit better then my subtank mini with a OCC coil..

no leaks so far.. i
 
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ThunderDan

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so maybe this wasn't the best RTA to get as a beginner builder... it wasn't too bad once i found my 2.0mm screwdriver...
but some of the things I want to ask:
1) what is the highest ohm that is possible on the goblin? my first build i did 9 wraps and it comes out to 5ohms.. which is expected.. i'd like to get 0.8ohm but i dunno if that's possible with the small deck
2) anyone have issue with the new screws? the walls are soo thin that i striped one already.
3) my o-ring at the bottom is actually on the glass... anyone have this ? i have the version that comes with the larger glass as an add on

so far it's good.. just went out for my first try and the airflow is good.. maybe a tad bit better then my subtank mini with a OCC coil..

no leaks so far.. i

1) Depends on the gauge and type of wire. With 32g Kanthal I bet you could get well over 1 ohm easily. What gauge/wire are you using right now?
2) I haven't had an issue yet.
3) The red o-rings should be touching the glass, at the top and bottom of the tank.
 

johentie

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Jan 15, 2014
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1) Depends on the gauge and type of wire. With 32g Kanthal I bet you could get well over 1 ohm easily. What gauge/wire are you using right now?
2) I haven't had an issue yet.
3) The red o-rings should be touching the glass, at the top and bottom of the tank.


1) i am using 26g kanthal A1... maybe i should have gotten a thinner guage.. i'll buy thinner once it runs out (will be a while)
2) i am being gentle till i have to tighten.. and i can see the walls spreading out at the top of the screw head.
3) hmmm the "bottom" (i say bottom cause it was the part at the bottom when i first took it apart) has a red o-ring that is attached to it.. and the bottom piece has an oring inside it as well.. maybe this is updated? the bigger glass piece doesn't have this oring.

can't take pics right now since i just filled it... will do it next time i clean it
 

ThunderDan

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1) i am using 26g kanthal A1... maybe i should have gotten a thinner guage.. i'll buy thinner once it runs out (will be a while)
2) i am being gentle till i have to tighten.. and i can see the walls spreading out at the top of the screw head.
3) hmmm the "bottom" (i say bottom cause it was the part at the bottom when i first took it apart) has a red o-ring that is attached to it.. and the bottom piece has an oring inside it as well.. maybe this is updated? the bigger glass piece doesn't have this oring.

can't take pics right now since i just filled it... will do it next time i clean it

1) Gotcha, yeah with 26g kanthal about the highest I would do is .4-.5 on this, otherwise you'd be hard pressed to get them to fit. I think even with 28g you could get a .8ohm build in this guy, 30g for sure. I need to rebuild one of my goblins, I'll try 28g and report back.

2) Hmm, that doesn't sound good. Maybe try contacting your vendor for a replacement, that doesn't sound normal.

3) I don't quite think I'm following, the glass itself has an o-ring attached?
 

johentie

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1) Gotcha, yeah with 26g kanthal about the highest I would do is .4-.5 on this, otherwise you'd be hard pressed to get them to fit. I think even with 28g you could get a .8ohm build in this guy, 30g for sure. I need to rebuild one of my goblins, I'll try 28g and report back.

2) Hmm, that doesn't sound good. Maybe try contacting your vendor for a replacement, that doesn't sound normal.

3) I don't quite think I'm following, the glass itself has an o-ring attached?

hmm kk.. the screws just seem weak hehe.. i put in the extra screw that comes with the kit and it's been ok.. but again spreading.. hopefully replacements are not hard to find.. i'll ask Youde or the place i got it. thanks

cool i appreciate you trying out the 28g ; > yah i usually like 0.8-1.0.. the 0.5 i have right now just upped to 0.6 on my ipv2s.. so probably in and around there.. it's not bad actually..

The O-ring and glass compressed together. It's not actually attached. Peel off slowly...

oh nice thank you ; >
 

doofy666

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Dec 31, 2014
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Telling you the lighter O-ring and quick dremel sanding to level the screw head is the way to go....

I've broken down two lighters. One didn't have an oring and the other was too big; about 2.5mm x 1. I'd like to find an oring of slightly under 2.5mm with a cross section of about .5mm.

At the moment I'm using 2.5mm heat shrink tubing but it needs replacing often cos the threads tear it up.
 

EddieAdams

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I've broken down two lighters. One didn't have an oring and the other was too big; about 2.5mm x 1. I'd like to find an oring of slightly under 2.5mm with a cross section of about .5mm.

At the moment I'm using 2.5mm heat shrink tubing but it needs replacing often cos the threads tear it up.
I have a plethora of these lighters left over from smoking. Indian reservations gave them away with a carton. Inside the inside you'll find 2 O-rings. The smaller one you can't see. You have to continue breaking up the inner workings. You can actually see the larger from the outside. They're all the same lighter under different names. Things ran out of flint before fluid and are known to blow up on a hot day inside the car... uploadfromtaptalk1427311199219.jpg
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ThunderDan

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hmm kk.. the screws just seem weak hehe.. i put in the extra screw that comes with the kit and it's been ok.. but again spreading.. hopefully replacements are not hard to find.. i'll ask Youde or the place i got it. thanks

cool i appreciate you trying out the 28g ; > yah i usually like 0.8-1.0.. the 0.5 i have right now just upped to 0.6 on my ipv2s.. so probably in and around there.. it's not bad actually..



oh nice thank you ; >

Ok, tried out the 28g dual coil, did 10 wraps 2mm came out to .74ohm. A nice, flavorful vape around 30w-35w on a regulated device, with a faster ramp up and less heat retention. I don't think it would be great on a mech though.

I still think I prefer 26g 8 wrap for .4ohm, and given you have the power to push 26g, I don't know that I would bother switching.

I didn't care for 24g in this, that was the build I replaced today, too much heat retention imo.

I think next I may experiment with spaced coils, and maybe twisted / tiger wire.
 

GhostRidrTat

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Mar 18, 2015
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so maybe this wasn't the best RTA to get as a beginner builder... it wasn't too bad once i found my 2.0mm screwdriver...
but some of the things I want to ask:
1) what is the highest ohm that is possible on the goblin? my first build i did 9 wraps and it comes out to 0.5ohms.. which is expected.. i'd like to get 0.8ohm but i dunno if that's possible with the small deck
2) anyone have issue with the new screws? the walls are soo thin that i striped one already.
3) my o-ring at the bottom is actually on the glass... anyone have this ? i have the version that comes with the larger glass as an add on

so far it's good.. just went out for my first try and the airflow is good.. maybe a tad bit better then my subtank mini with a OCC coil..

no leaks so far.. i

I got mine to 1 ohm using 28g wire, 9 wraps on 2.4 mm diameter. I could see getting well over 1ohm as not too difficult using 30g wire, I can't verify either way though if smaller wire runs too hot for the closeness to the center posts grommet thing (sorry slipping my mind ATM what it's called Lol) on a side note about the different versions, the newer ones not only come with the larger tank and longer chimney but now they have etched on the cone piece of the chimney "goblin" in really nice lettering, I know that's purely an asthetic change but it definitely adds to the good looks on an already sweet looking rta :)
 
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