Ive actually done that for a few of the tube mods Ive made. Not sure if thats something Mike has thought about, or wants to do, but it is a feasible solution. Its a shame noone makes a smaller meter. Its possible to make one smaller but it takes about 4 hours to solder it plus the cost of parts. Definitely not cost effective lol.
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I for one don t miss the lcd showing the volts: I mean the colors on the wheel are suficient enough to know where I am.
It would be great to know the ohm s the cartos/attys have. But you can adjust it by feeling and sometimes the same power gives a diferent taste with diferent juices so youhave to always dial to adjust, even in the darwin.
A battery meter would be cool, possible with diferent led colors. But in the end you possibly put fresh bateries in the morning that will take the Buzz till night or just carry another pair of bats.
Would be really cool a lcd with internet acess showing the weather, the ecf, markets, etc
It would be great to know the ohm s the cartos/attys have. But you can adjust it by feeling and sometimes the same power gives a diferent taste with diferent juices so youhave to always dial to adjust, even in the darwin.
A battery meter would be cool, possible with diferent led colors. But in the end you possibly put fresh bateries in the morning that will take the Buzz till night or just carry another pair of bats.
Would be really cool a lcd with internet acess showing the weather, the ecf, markets, etc
I for one don t miss the lcd showing the volts: I mean the colors on the wheel are suficient enough to know where I am.
It would be great to know the ohm s the cartos/attys have. But you can adjust it by feeling and sometimes the same power gives a diferent taste with diferent juices so youhave to always dial to adjust, even in the darwin.
A battery meter would be cool, possible with diferent led colors. But in the end you possibly put fresh bateries in the morning that will take the Buzz till night or just carry another pair of bats.
Would be really cool a lcd with internet acess showing the weather, the ecf, markets, etc
I tend to agree. I almost never use a meter these days. I know the voltages I like and the marks are good enough to adjust a little if needed. The mods I built that I added a meter was more to see if I could than for actual regular use.
I used to think a meter and such was importand but not so much these days. A easy way to test ohms would be handy but not something I would want my PV to be much larger for.
On my original buzz I wanted a battery meter. On my pro.... I change them in the morning and im almost alwas good till the next morning. (i do carry a spare set just in case
) - Actually I carry a spare PV too lol
On my original infinity, the center mark wore off months ago, I never bothered remarking
A rose by any other name is still a..........ummmm............... the "Sweet Spot" !!!!
I've been VV'ing for 11 months. And yes, like many, I played a lot with the MM. But I can almost tell you what voltage is and if not I KNOW when it tastes right.
I vape a lot in the movie theater and 3 weeks ago at Dead show. 2 or 3 quick hits and I can get right where I want to be.
What I'm trying to say, is that a fun as a # is, knowing where you want it to be come pretty quick.
I've been VV'ing for 11 months. And yes, like many, I played a lot with the MM. But I can almost tell you what voltage is and if not I KNOW when it tastes right.
I vape a lot in the movie theater and 3 weeks ago at Dead show. 2 or 3 quick hits and I can get right where I want to be.
What I'm trying to say, is that a fun as a # is, knowing where you want it to be come pretty quick.
This is kind of off topic and I know that rarely happens here LMAO. I found a new use for the voltage adapter Mike sells. I had a battery from a different ecig with a 510 connector that I needed to charge and I had no charger for it. With an adapter I screwed this adapter on to the battery then hooked the leads to one side on my TR-001 charger and it worked great. Thought I'd pass that along.
Oh man great find i have a couple things with no charger... gonna give it a go in a lil while
It worked good for me. I had to use a 510 to 901/808 adapter and then hooked up the adapter notcig sells to that. Then screwed it on the battery. Put a small brad on the pos. end of the charger to hook the pos. lead to. plugged it in and the light was red. When it was through the light turned green and the battery was ready to go.
I have an idea where you can locate an LCD. Fit it on the bottom cap. Indent it. Like on a digital watch. How to hold that spring in? Have loops that it slides into- like a belt being looped onto pants. The screw hole can be utilized for a wire. Might have to indent slightly within the tube for that wire. As for battery, Make it so the wire coming down the tube wall ends at the point of contact with the end cap, and no wire is actually needed after that connection.
I am electrically challenged, so I dont know how feasible this really is...
Oh, and the ability to use a higher mah battery like the 18xxx series would be nice. An attachable extender, as mentioned earlier? OR, fit that LDC in to an extended endcap feature?
I am electrically challenged, so I dont know how feasible this really is...
Oh, and the ability to use a higher mah battery like the 18xxx series would be nice. An attachable extender, as mentioned earlier? OR, fit that LDC in to an extended endcap feature?
Hey Buzz... I know you're probably concentrating on the VVPV right now. But, I was reading through this, because I had an idea for the BP... and saw that it was brought up a few different ways previously.
Anyway... now with tanks MUCH more in use then even 6 months ago. It would really be nice to have a recessed connector of some type. Whether it is an extended cap, with the connector recessed, or if you can somehow manage to push it down in the space you have. Either way, I think a LOT of folks would like the look of their tank sitting right agaist, or real close, to the BP.
Just wanted to bring this back up again.
Also, I really liked somebody's idea of somehow having no wire under the top cap. Just 2 plates/contacts that when you screw it in they touch.
I just know that you're probably sitting around all day doing nuthin.
Anyway... now with tanks MUCH more in use then even 6 months ago. It would really be nice to have a recessed connector of some type. Whether it is an extended cap, with the connector recessed, or if you can somehow manage to push it down in the space you have. Either way, I think a LOT of folks would like the look of their tank sitting right agaist, or real close, to the BP.
Just wanted to bring this back up again.
Also, I really liked somebody's idea of somehow having no wire under the top cap. Just 2 plates/contacts that when you screw it in they touch.
I just know that you're probably sitting around all day doing nuthin.
LMAO That was meHey Buzz... I know you're probably concentrating on the VVPV right now. But, I was reading through this, because I had an idea for the BP... and saw that it was brought up a few different ways previously.
Anyway... now with tanks MUCH more in use then even 6 months ago. It would really be nice to have a recessed connector of some type. Whether it is an extended cap, with the connector recessed, or if you can somehow manage to push it down in the space you have. Either way, I think a LOT of folks would like the look of their tank sitting right agaist, or real close, to the BP.
Just wanted to bring this back up again.
Also, I really liked somebody's idea of somehow having no wire under the top cap. Just 2 plates/contacts that when you screw it in they touch.
I just know that you're probably sitting around all day doing nuthin.
The "adaptacap" I posted some crude design pics somewhere around here. I think the biggest concern mike had with it is production cost (and I think he thinks im a little crazy ).I know I looked into getting one made for proof the concept would work and they wanted close to 50 bucks to make a single cap. That said if you were making 100+ it would probably come down in the $15 range.
I really wish I had a lathe so I could play with it.
Basically works like a light bulb. left side threads into the right side. Right side treads into the PV. Right side should never come off by user (only off when serviced). Looks good in theory....... Real life application would tell the tale. Maybe someday I can get one made
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I like that ruppy!! Looks like it would work. Of course I don't know anything about this stuff...
I didn't know anything about this stuff either, but the funny thing is, the longer you hang around here the more you find yourself "getting it!" lol
The problem is that we would have to increase the tube lenght to make it work , Out of ROOM inside ,.
Actually by the measurements I have it should make it 4 mm taller but be the same on the inside. I gave the machine shop one of my caps for the measurements. Once I get ahead again on cash ill get two made and send you one Mike It will be awhile though. They told me about 3 weeks after I order it before they can make them.
It will be awhile though. They told me about 3 weeks after I order it before they can make them.
What about something like this for the connection? It's a spring loaded pin made especially to be soldered in PCB's for electrical contacts. I haven't taken a close look at the PCB inside the BP but if it were horizontal than something like this mounted in the center and sticking straight up could eliminate the wire. When you screw on the cap, the spring loaded pin would make contact with the center screw in the cap. Just thinkin' out loud.
CONN SPRING-LOADED PIN .297 GOLD - 0980-0-15-20-75-14-11-0
CONN SPRING-LOADED PIN .297 GOLD - 0980-0-15-20-75-14-11-0
I looked into that , but the way the PCB is laid out there is no place to mount it , Maybe next version ?
the center mark wore off months ago, I never bothered remarking
my center mark is mostly worn off too, but there is that nice dimple, I know where it is, even in the dark.
My only change that I would like to see is a better connection for the posative terminal to the top cap. I am about to get my new chrome cap, and am actually feeling slightly gunsky about the fear of breaking the wire, even after reading the "How To" on changing the top cap. I'll just make sure to go slow.
I do like the idea of putting a permanent top on similar to THIS ONE that Ruppy posted, and having adapters that screw onto the top plate. Realistically, that can be done without any changes to the body, the only added height would be in the top cap portion, and I would be thrilled to have it be 3-4mm taller for that convenience.
a different colored ambient light (the red one inside the pro) to indicate battery life remaining would be nice, but not needed, I always have a spare set sitting on the charger.
other than that, I LOVE, LOVE LOVE my Buzz Pro.
Having the analog whee was thy I decided on the Buzz Pro, rather than the Provari or Lavatube. I can just give the wheel a microajustment, and it is almost infinitely variable within that 3.6-6v range.
I see no need for a voltage display, I just turn the wheel till i get the taste I want, I don't care what voltage it is at.
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