Zen ZNA clones coming...

[SlushPuppy]

Liking mine too. Don't care about the MDOE thing also. Just wish it had the ability to go to stealth mode quicker and easier.

I absolutley understand that for some people who perfer using stealth mode. but being the quiet little introverted person that i am, im almost NEVER away from my apartment. I think i used stealth mode once when i was walking to the corner store at 3 am and i was drunk and didnt want to attract any unwanted attention from police or what have you.

 

[SlushPuppy]

But on a separate note, FRESH coil build on my rainbow fogger. .5 ohm. Liquid Nebula Wormhole in the tank. Mmmmmmmm, tastes like a green apple cinnamon puff pastry with a butter cream frosting. its pretty freaking ridiculous how spot on some of these flavors are.

 

[Chakris]

After using my hotcig ZNA from FTECH for a couple months now, I'm really pleased with it's performance. I have had no problems with it at all. Actually thinking about getting another for backup, as my Spinners will eventually die.

 

[tot31]

Well this is uh... curious

$61.25 ZNA zna50 Mechanical Mod - Silver(18650)

That is exactly like mine which I bought 2 months ago and changed the chip to an authentic DNA30.

 

[Pclarity]

So I picked up the black ZNA 50 from Vape Pen Sales that someone linked to somewhere in this forum. Was either here or the sx mini thread. I believe it was a post made by Nighthawk iirc.

Anyway, the sucker arrived today. First impressions: Compared to my AMod ZNA 30, the firing button is smoother and nicer. It actually did come with the 18650 tube which helped me realize that you could screw the tubes on in either direction so now my stripes are toward the bottom on both. The chip in the 50 comes up from sleep much faster and has the welcome message "Zen ZNA 1207". I've read about this message before in this very thread, but I'm not sure still who made this clone. Most of my research said Robbot, but the product photos on the site suggest s particular wholesaler from DHgate. The mode screen is spelled correctly unlike the Wotofo. The up/down buttons are a little higher up on the body. And the screen, while in the same position, is a little more square than round. Inside, there is some soldering that seems to have gotten out of control on the battery contact, but not shards from drilling/milling as with the Wotofo. The 50 feels heavier. I have an AW 18500 in there with my Hobo .8 ohm 28awg build firing nicely. The display appears to show live voltage which is different and new. It shows zero for volts unless I'm actively firing it. Goes from 3.5 immediTely to 3.1 once the juice starts popping.

So far I really like it, but I'm very curious about the chip and who made it. Anyone have any clues?

I should also add that compared to the Wotofo 30, this chip seems to regulate smoother. The vape is closer to what I was getting from my MVP2 just with more power. The Wotofo, on the other hand, seems to vape a little hotter, closer to the way the iStick works. Not saying the Wotofo is not rms but it vapes closer to mean than the chip in this 50.

Also, the Vape Pen Sales guys were awesome to include a couple free CE5 tanks and a little silicon jar. No clue what to do with the jar, but the CE5s will do nicely on the Inferno I started this vaping journey on. Particularly since I think the cartos it came with that I never used last year appear to be dry rotted or something. Tastes burnt no matter what or how much juice I put in one of em. Scared to try the other four. I have no desire to get burnt cotton induced bronchitis.

 

[AnsonJames]

Have you got a photo of the box? That would probably be the easiest way to tell who manufactured your ZNA 50.

 

[Pclarity]

Have you got a photo of the box? That would probably be the easiest way to tell who manufactured your ZNA 50.

That's what I received.

 

[AnsonJames]

Not 100% on this version as there"s quite a lot of companies selling this one - I think it's possibly the Microcig version.
Maybe someone else can chime in.

 

[caged]

I probably should report that my Cloupor ZNA 50 died. It now just cycles through its options over and over again with a very dim screen and puts out very little vapor. I noticed the vape production starting getting weaker at higher battery voltages (i.e. normally it would get weaker at 3.6 volts, but it was starting to get weak when the battery was at 3.8 volts) a few days before it just quit on me. I can't find my receipt so I haven't tried the warranty. Bought a rDNA 40 from Vaporshark so we'll see if it's any more reliable when it gets here. If it is, I am done with Chinese mods.

 

[Pclarity]

Not 100% on this version as there"s quite a lot of companies selling this one - I think it's possibly the Microcig version.
Maybe someone else can chime in.

Thanks hadn't heard of that one. I'll see what I can dig up.

 

[Pclarity]

Did some digging around and the chip behaves the same way the Robbott ZNA 50 boots as reported in another forum. Further, I believe the name you might've meant was comcig and those were ZNA 30's not 50's. The boot screen behavior seems to be a 50 thing and I've only seen it in reference to a Robbot. The fact that it also ways more than my thirty implies 316 Ss not 304 like the AMod or aluminum like everyone else. Also, the comcig was simply rebranded Robbott clones so I'm thinking this is a Robbot. Either way I'm happier with it than any PV I've bought since the MVP2, including the iStick ( which had a 510 pin issue within a week of purchase ) and the IPV Mini which needs to be returned due to a crookedly installed 510.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Kevlar112]

I feel like I kinda have to warn people that plan on buying the Robbot version.
Got mine 2 days ago from focalecig. I read great things about the Amod/Wotofo version but that one wasn't available anymore. Figured since the Robbot version is actually more expensive it can't possibly be worse. I was wrong.

Here's a picture comparison of the chip housing from the back (battery tube removed):
Amod/Wotofo
Robbot

Take note of the sloppy machining on the plastic cover, also the (steel?) positive contact screw as opposed to the copper screw on the Amod.

The actual chip perfomance however is the worst part. It works perfectly well until about 3.2V left in the battery. At this point the graphic battery indicator has just passed the halfway point. From there on it starts crashing down hard. It simply can't keep up the regulated wattage from there on.

I'm used to dodgy performance from clone chips by now, but this is one of the more disappointing ones.
Just a heads up.

 

[Pclarity]

I'm sorry you had a bad experience. I had the same experience with my IPV Mini. At least I got to send it back. Now I'm not sure what I have again. Mine looks nothing like that.

 

[caged]

I feel like I kinda have to warn people that plan on buying the Robbot version.
Got mine 2 days ago from focalecig. I read great things about the Amod/Wotofo version but that one wasn't available anymore. Figured since the Robbot version is actually more expensive it can't possibly be worse. I was wrong.

Here's a picture comparison of the chip housing from the back (battery tube removed):
Amod/Wotofo
Robbot

Take note of the sloppy machining on the plastic cover, also the (steel?) positive contact screw as opposed to the copper screw on the Amod.

The actual chip perfomance however is the worst part. It works perfectly well until about 3.2V left in the battery. At this point the graphic battery indicator has just passed the halfway point. From there on it starts crashing down hard. It simply can't keep up the regulated wattage from there on.

I'm used to dodgy performance from clone chips by now, but this is one of the more disappointing ones.
Just a heads up.

It's past time to swap your battery at 3.2 volts.

 

[Kevlar112]

Well that's kinda my point, sorry, I should have clarified.
I can't trust any of the numbers it gives me. At all. After putting a new battery in it runs okay for about an hour. Then the battery voltage starts jumping.
As opposed to the real DNA or the Cloupor chips, it doesn't show the applied voltage while firing, but the battery voltage.
And that drops up and down regularly. The graphic battery indicator shows it being almost full, while the voltage sometimes reads down to 1.8 or 1.7 volts. Taking the battery out and putting it in again is a workaround that fixes it for a while but well, it still sucks.
It's not my batteries either. It's the same with both of the Samsung 25r I got a week ago.

 

[caged]

Well that's kinda my point, sorry, I should have clarified.
I can't trust any of the numbers it gives me. At all. After putting a new battery in it runs okay for about an hour. Then the battery voltage starts jumping.
As opposed to the real DNA or the Cloupor chips, it doesn't show the applied voltage while firing, but the battery voltage.
And that drops up and down regularly. The graphic battery indicator shows it being almost full, while the voltage sometimes reads down to 1.8 or 1.7 volts. Taking the battery out and putting it in again is a workaround that fixes it for a while but well, it still sucks.
It's not my batteries either. It's the same with both of the Samsung 25r I got a week ago.

Got it. I wouldn't be happy either.

 

[ricks]

take it apart and check the wiring. Might have a poor connection.

 

[hobbes4]

Well that's kinda my point, sorry, I should have clarified.
I can't trust any of the numbers it gives me. At all. After putting a new battery in it runs okay for about an hour. Then the battery voltage starts jumping.
As opposed to the real DNA or the Cloupor chips, it doesn't show the applied voltage while firing, but the battery voltage.
And that drops up and down regularly. The graphic battery indicator shows it being almost full, while the voltage sometimes reads down to 1.8 or 1.7 volts. Taking the battery out and putting it in again is a workaround that fixes it for a while but well, it still sucks.
It's not my batteries either. It's the same with both of the Samsung 25r I got a week ago.

I have both the Amod and Robbot ZNA 30s from Focal, both first batches. The Amod has been great from day one but i hear it's been hit or miss with later batches...not just from focal but everywhere. Not sure if Amod has fixed this yet. The Robbot had issues upon arrival. I exchanged it and the replacement has been working great.

I would try contacting Focal to exchange it.

 

[Kevlar112]

I know it might be stupid but I really didn't want to bother with shipping to china so i fixed it myself.

I took it apart, changed the steel (!) contact screw to a copper one and put a DNA40 in it.
Out of the box it does regulate (like 2 watts off, but it DOES regulate) down to about 3.8V battery life. Lower than that (which is a lot of battery life left) your settings don't matter, it's just a mechanical at this point. No matter if you set it to 10, 20 or 50 Watts, it's just battery voltage. With a huge voltdrop because steel screws aren't all that conductive.
This instantly became my most expensive mod. Not useable out of the box.

 

[IanDVaypes]

I know it might be stupid but I really didn't want to bother with shipping to china so i fixed it myself.

I took it apart, changed the steel (!) contact screw to a copper one and put a DNA40 in it.
Out of the box it does regulate (like 2 watts off, but it DOES regulate) down to about 3.8V battery life. Lower than that (which is a lot of battery life left) your settings don't matter, it's just a mechanical at this point. No matter if you set it to 10, 20 or 50 Watts, it's just battery voltage. With a huge voltdrop because steel screws aren't all that conductive.
This instantly became my most expensive mod. Not useable out of the box.

Any pics of the inside and the dna 40? My robbot zna is going to be here today and i already have a working dna 40. I got the robbot clone specifically for a chip swap. What kind of copper screw did you use?