Zen ZNA clones coming...

[roxynoodle]

You can return it to the US Warehouse of FC. I had to send back my Zero clone. As soon as they received it, they shipped me the knew one. When I shipped back the defective one they had me send pics of the package, tracking number and receipt. They reimbursed me for the shipping.

 

[Kevlar112]

Any pics of the inside and the dna 40? My robbot zna is going to be here today and i already have a working dna 40. I got the robbot clone specifically for a chip swap. What kind of copper screw did you use?

No pics of the inside anymore, there wouldn't be anything to see now as it's closed up. I had to mill out a new backplate out of PVC and glue it in because the original broke into 100 pieces when I took it out.
The chip fits perfect out of the box, no additional work needed. I don't like using hot glue and i didn't need to on the chip, just the back cover.
The copper screw I used is a flat head M4x10 mm.

 

[fredrikstad]

mine is #944, works just great.. View attachment 328932 he does more than just the ZNA.

Now, a year after, where can I bye one now, today? I tried HoH, but all three links there are down.Do you know how many units the ZNA 30 has sold so far? Do you think there will be a ZNA 40? I would love that, with a big screen like VS.

 

[Pclarity]

Focalecig keeps the Wotofo and the Robbot in their line up.

 

[fredrikstad]

This is one clone I will not touch, and I have nothing against clones. Fortunately, I can travel an hour to the west, and buy a real one (factory 2nd) when I am ready to pull the trigger. I have had the opportunity to play with a real one, and I cannot imagine a Chinese clone even coming close to it. YMMV

Would you drive and bye one for me ha ha Pleace

 

[fredrikstad]

I can't figure out who made mine. It's not made of aluminum. Might be SS? I think the only reason it's showing "too hot" is because of the time the button is on.

I know I am late to the party here. But if you haven`t got the answer yet, I will guess you have the Robbot Tech version. They where the only one to actually make 1:1 SS clone.

 

[fredrikstad]

Focalecig keeps the Wotofo and the Robbot in their line up.

Thank you for that. It`s maybe the wrong thread, but I was thinking about the genuine one. And Focalsig won`t ship outside US

 

[Ren76]

I picked up a ZNA 50 today, I'm not sure if I like it yet, first felt good in the hand while at the b&m. Got home charged up 2 new efests, popped one in when the charge was done. Slapped my new lemo on top with it's factory coil ohm'd out at 1.2 and got a nice warm vape. But after using it for a few hours I'm not thinking it's as nice as it was in the shop. Fire button rattles like crazy and there's quite a few sharp edges on this thing. Weighs a ton compared to my istick lol. I'm not sure......

 

[cores]

I have a Robbot ZNA50 that I've had for about a month now. The build quality is quite good. But, I did have a minor problem with it where the pin that holds the firing button in place slid out the side. I crimped the end of the pin with a pair of pliers, stuffed it back into the device and no more issues. Quick 2 minute fix. Minor thing really.

So far, the device has worked well. I've popped a battery into it backwards, and thankfully it is protected. The unit wont turn on. I've used 18490's as well as 18650's without any problem.

However, the chip in it, while OK for the first 35% of the battery just tapers off really quick when it falls below that level. The first 20% of the battery is a stellar vape. the next 15% are a good vape. Then it is just ordinary. It's pretty easy to slip in and out new batteries, but still would like the unit to operate a bit better then it does.

There is a firing delay of about a half a second when the unit is cold, or left to sit for more then a minute. While it's not an issue or overly annoying, it is worth noting.

The internal screw (inside the battery compartment) isn't steel as it's not magnetic. Maybe its zinc? I was going to replace it with a brass screw, but zinc is more conductive then brass so I scratched that idea. I would like to find a copper screw for it (M4x10), but I can't find one on the internet. Than again, a copper screw may not be a strong enough metal as this particular screw holds the battery tube attached to the handle. So zinc is probably the best way to go here.

On this unit, the 510 pin is spring loaded. Overall, Im happy with everything else about the unit and use it all the time. But, if I was to do over, I probably would not buy it again. Probably do a Vaporshark or a Hana instead - only because of the chip.

Can anyone comment about it's vape with an Evolve DNA40 chip in it? Maybe I'll pop one in.

 

[cores]

View attachment 396094

That's what I received.

the box of the Robot ZNA50 says "ZNA50" on the box. Not sure if that's the best way to tell though. Might be an Amod.

Easiest way to tell is to pop open the battery compartment and look at the screw in there. If it's silver - could be a robot. Brass - could be an amod.

The robot chip is supposedly made by robot. The robot also boots "ZNA 50 1207", but I think all the clones do this?

 

[ricks]

the box of the Robot ZNA50 says "ZNA50" on the box. Not sure if that's the best way to tell though. Might be an Amod.

Easiest way to tell is to pop open the battery compartment and look at the screw in there. If it's silver - could be a robot. Brass - could be an amod.

The robot chip is supposedly made by robot. The robot also boots "ZNA 50 1207", but I think all the clones do this?

That's not an amod box.

 

[Pclarity]

That's not an amod box.

I have an AMod. I know it's not one of those. It could be a Robbot, but I doubt it. I should not both units have issues with at least one of the wattage control clickers not always responding to the throw. Other than that, they've both performed very well. I'm waiting for the chip in the AMod to die so I can replace it with a Yihi chip rather than evolv since I prefer them.

 

[ricks]

I have an AMod. I know it's not one of those. It could be a Robbot, but I doubt it. I should not both units have issues with at least one of the wattage control clickers not always responding to the throw. Other than that, they've both performed very well. I'm waiting for the chip in the AMod to die so I can replace it with a Yihi chip rather than evolv since I prefer them.

I have one that came in a box like the one talked about here and it died on me within 4 days. Where can I get a chip for it?

 

[IanDVaypes]

The biggest problem with the clones is that the chip will short out. The authentic has an insulator between the chip and the body to prevent this. I've fried 2 dna 40s by not putting an insulator inside. The clone chip did the same thing. I got a used authentic zna lite and swapped a dna 40 inside using the insulator it came with and no problems yet.

 

[David1975]

I swapped out the chip for a DNA 30 in my AMOD, wasn't hard but I also noticed the lack of an insulator... so what I did was grabbed a sheet of .01 plastic from my local hobby shop (Hobby town USA) and made a spaced. I just cut a rectangle the same width and a little longer than the chip, cut a hole for the buttons and so far it's been problem free. I also used that same plastic to make a shim for the DNA as the OEM board was 2-3 mm longer, to prevent the DNA from moving.

 

[cores]

Ricks, the chip in an authentic zna30 should be an Evolv DNA30 chip. I have a working Robbot ZNA50 that I have been thinking about pulling the chip out of.

Ian, David, Thank you for tip! Is this insulator needed on the largest chip on the DNA board, or another? Intuition would think that the chip was using the body as a sink. I would have thrown some thermo conductive grease in there and re-assembled. Looks like you have saved me a DN40 replacement in the future!

 

[IanDVaypes]

I was actually able to get the 18650 to fit in the 490 tube on my clone. I used my dremel to open up the hole, soldered the 510 and used the copper plate for the battery. Then I used some jb weld epoxy putty to hold the tube in place. Only thing is is that I messed up the finish on the outside. Ss is hard to grind. I'm not able to remove the tube or 510 cap. I also ran a wire from the ground to the space in between the tube and the body. It works great but it's ugly. With it being my proto type, i tried to separate the tube from the body and it won't budge with any effort i throw at it. Now I'm going to try this on one of my authentic zna lites. I've learned my lessons and the aluminum should be so much easier to grind on than the stainless steel.

 

[Ren76]

SS yup she's a .... to drill, grind etc.

 

[cores]

I have an AMod. I know it's not one of those. It could be a Robbot, but I doubt it. I should not both units have issues with at least one of the wattage control clickers not always responding to the throw. Other than that, they've both performed very well. I'm waiting for the chip in the AMod to die so I can replace it with a Yihi chip rather than evolv since I prefer them.

Maybe these can help? I tossed the little booklet that came with it though.

The screw is silver in color and won't stick to a magnet.




Also noticed the packaging on this is reversed then the one you had posted.

 

[msgnyc]

My initial robbot zna50 from the first run that had the short didn't have the holographic decal inside. The replacement from the second run did however.