Anyone have a guess about which version of ZMax that is?
Thanks.
Jay
My guess would be v3 but I'm no ZMAX expert...
Are YOU a Tootle Puffer??
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My guess would be v3 but I'm no ZMAX expert...
It's a round-top, but whether it's a v3 or v5, no way to know until you see the menu items -- I think the v5 has some extra setting.
Andria
Andria
Guess I have to go over to that incredibly long ZMax thread to learn about them. At that price, I just ordered 4 for backup/gift duty.
I also got 2 Aspire CE5 BVC clearo's and a buch of BVC's for a good price. They should be the same coils as the ET-S, right?
Thanks.
Jay
If you like tube mods, they're actually really great to use with clearos, RTAs & RDAs up to 15 or 30W. You have to stack 18350s to reach the 30W though...
Judging from the Sigelei website, I'm guessing they are V2's. V3's and later seen to be telescopes. Just am uneducated guess.
Jay
Jay
Judging from the Sigelei website, I'm guessing they are V2's. V3's and later seen to be telescopes. Just am uneducated guess.
Jay
I'm told the overall performance from v2 to v5 is much the same...
I just picked up a couple of those and a couple spinners for my vapocalypse stash. Thanks for posting this! 
No, the Zmax's only go to 15w. You can stack 18350s, but all that does is give you longer battery life. I *think* with stacked '350s, if you adjust voltage up to the max,
Andria
ETA: and the ONLY way to tell, is by the menu selections -- if there's an extra one, it's a v5. There is nothing else about them to differentiate them.
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Hey tootle puffers! I'm one as well, and have some questions. I haven't read all 300+ pages but have a general knowledge of what's involved. I have had two TC controlled mods - VS rDNA-40 (no longer) and I recently purchased a Joyetech eVic VT. I'm vaping the VT at @500-540° at 38W and the Ni coil reads .17Ω which I have 'locked'.
If you've seen the phil video on the VT you'll know that the actual temps are lower than what the reading says so, I'm around 420-450° - a bit high but in order to get an equivalent vapor production as a say, 12.5W kanthal coil with the airflow squeezed down for a 'proper' M2L tootle puffing :- ) ... I needed something above 400°. Allowing more airflow, since it tends to cool down the coil, I can vape at a lower temp, but for good vapor production (not clouds), then it almost forces lung inhale, or just a puff of vapor M2L.
I have read and have thought myself that if one is a tootle puffer/flavor chaser rather than a cloud chaser, one might not 'need' temp control. For vaping in general, esp. for those who thought 'cloud chasing' was 'ruining' vaping, I thought TC was near the perfect solution for those who thought that inhaling particles would be something that would be used against us, and TC seemed to - and I think does - solve that particular problem - the vape is a cool vape at certain temps.
On the VT you can see easily (well - in a mirror :- ) what's happening with wattage. Of course this is with the settings above - temp and resistance being constant - but what I see even with the airflow constricted for M2L, that the wattage will fall to around 13-15W (from the 38W initial setting) as temp control takes over. If I open up the airflow a bit more (ie. more than I would do using kanthal), the wattage will drop to the 20-23W level - way above normal tootle puffing with, say, the Defender or Subox with a 1.5Ω kanthal coil set at around 12.5 to 13 Watts (DV's Habana Reserve and JG blend from Ahlusion) - an occasional 15 Watts for espresso and at 8.5-10 Watts for a few lighter flavors.
{I should note here that without the mirror, and just firing the button without inhaling (ie no airflow) the wattage will eventually go down to around 8-9 watts to reach temp levels. But when airflow is included - again - 13-15 Watts is the bottom level to maintain temp. }
The 'question' - IF temp control on the VT doesn't go to, or rarely goes to my 'normal' tootle puffing wattages without TC, and never goes to the lower settings for lighter flavors - ie. if my normal vaping on kanthal isn't reaching temps that could possibly produce a problem - then is TC really not needed for tootle puffing - of 'my' type anyway :- ) ??
That said, I like the VT and have vaped it without TC - nice mod and good tootle puffer in the 'power' VW mode ... but prefer the smaller Defender and Subox for size and shape.
If you've seen the phil video on the VT you'll know that the actual temps are lower than what the reading says so, I'm around 420-450° - a bit high but in order to get an equivalent vapor production as a say, 12.5W kanthal coil with the airflow squeezed down for a 'proper' M2L tootle puffing :- ) ... I needed something above 400°. Allowing more airflow, since it tends to cool down the coil, I can vape at a lower temp, but for good vapor production (not clouds), then it almost forces lung inhale, or just a puff of vapor M2L.
I have read and have thought myself that if one is a tootle puffer/flavor chaser rather than a cloud chaser, one might not 'need' temp control. For vaping in general, esp. for those who thought 'cloud chasing' was 'ruining' vaping, I thought TC was near the perfect solution for those who thought that inhaling particles would be something that would be used against us, and TC seemed to - and I think does - solve that particular problem - the vape is a cool vape at certain temps.
On the VT you can see easily (well - in a mirror :- ) what's happening with wattage. Of course this is with the settings above - temp and resistance being constant - but what I see even with the airflow constricted for M2L, that the wattage will fall to around 13-15W (from the 38W initial setting) as temp control takes over. If I open up the airflow a bit more (ie. more than I would do using kanthal), the wattage will drop to the 20-23W level - way above normal tootle puffing with, say, the Defender or Subox with a 1.5Ω kanthal coil set at around 12.5 to 13 Watts (DV's Habana Reserve and JG blend from Ahlusion) - an occasional 15 Watts for espresso and at 8.5-10 Watts for a few lighter flavors.
{I should note here that without the mirror, and just firing the button without inhaling (ie no airflow) the wattage will eventually go down to around 8-9 watts to reach temp levels. But when airflow is included - again - 13-15 Watts is the bottom level to maintain temp. }
The 'question' - IF temp control on the VT doesn't go to, or rarely goes to my 'normal' tootle puffing wattages without TC, and never goes to the lower settings for lighter flavors - ie. if my normal vaping on kanthal isn't reaching temps that could possibly produce a problem - then is TC really not needed for tootle puffing - of 'my' type anyway :- ) ??
That said, I like the VT and have vaped it without TC - nice mod and good tootle puffer in the 'power' VW mode
... but prefer the smaller Defender and Subox for size and shape.
Hey tootle puffers! I'm one as well, and have some questions. I haven't read all 300+ pages but have a general knowledge of what's involved. I have had two TC controlled mods - VS rDNA-40 (no longer) and I recently purchased a Joyetech eVic VT. I'm vaping the VT at @500-540° at 38W and the Ni coil reads .17Ω which I have 'locked'.
If you've seen the phil video on the VT you'll know that the actual temps are lower than what the reading says so, I'm around 420-450° - a bit high but in order to get an equivalent vapor production as a say, 12.5W kanthal coil with the airflow squeezed down for a 'proper' M2L tootle puffing :- ) ... I needed something above 400°. Allowing more airflow, since it tends to cool down the coil, I can vape at a lower temp, but for good vapor production (not clouds), then it almost forces lung inhale, or just a puff of vapor M2L.
I have read and have thought myself that if one is a tootle puffer/flavor chaser rather than a cloud chaser, one might not 'need' temp control. For vaping in general, esp. for those who thought 'cloud chasing' was 'ruining' vaping, I thought TC was near the perfect solution for those who thought that inhaling particles would be something that would be used against us, and TC seemed to - and I think does - solve that particular problem - the vape is a cool vape at certain temps.
On the VT you can see easily (well - in a mirror :- ) what's happening with wattage. Of course this is with the settings above - temp and resistance being constant - but what I see even with the airflow constricted for M2L, that the wattage will fall to around 13-15W (from the 38W initial setting) as temp control takes over. If I open up the airflow a bit more (ie. more than I would do using kanthal), the wattage will drop to the 20-23W level - way above normal tootle puffing with, say, the Defender or Subox with a 1.5Ω kanthal coil set at around 12.5 to 13 Watts (DV's Habana Reserve and JG blend from Ahlusion) - an occasional 15 Watts for espresso and at 8.5-10 Watts for a few lighter flavors.
{I should note here that without the mirror, and just firing the button without inhaling (ie no airflow) the wattage will eventually go down to around 8-9 watts to reach temp levels. But when airflow is included - again - 13-15 Watts is the bottom level to maintain temp. }
The 'question' - IF temp control on the VT doesn't go to, or rarely goes to my 'normal' tootle puffing wattages without TC, and never goes to the lower settings for lighter flavors - ie. if my normal vaping on kanthal isn't reaching temps that could possibly produce a problem - then is TC really not needed for tootle puffing - of 'my' type anyway :- ) ??
That said, I like the VT and have vaped it without TC - nice mod and good tootle puffer in the 'power' VW mode
I really can't see that it's "needed" -- most tootlers do like the MtL technique, which is tighter airflow, which necessarily means a lower setting (w or v) so that the wick doesn't incinerate -- there's temp control.
It seems to me to be somewhat like this question of whether it's better to set wattage or voltage. When you're a newbie (or a math dummy like me!), then wattage is better, because you don't need to know the resistance, you just need to know what you like. That doesn't mean that setting voltage is *wrong* and a lot of folks still prefer to set voltage, but with voltage, you have to know the resistance and set the voltage accordingly. Using a mod without temp control is somewhat like that -- you know the basic parameters that will give a good vape, so that's what you set. I really have no idea what the temp is of my coils when I'm vaping at 9w or 10w, so having TC would be no help at all to me -- but I know that if i set it at 9w or 10w, I'll get the sort of vape I like -- if the airflow is tight enough.
Andria
Well that's the thing - seems like I've seen some info on that - of course people pushing TC will want to say that any wattage can cause that - which may be true, but not according to my info on the VT. I don't think it is that complicated, although so far (as far as I know) there is no actual 'coil sensors' but the math to get the temp is sufficient to figure it out - so some say, and I tend to believe that.
Yes, I've had to learn the "sweet spot" of the airflow in a kayfun, to vape it at my usual 10w -- if it's too tight, either I'll get a burnt hit, or juice in my mouth -- if it's too open, I won't get much of a hit at all, and very little vapor, so I might hit it too hard, and get juice in my mouth -- and I actually started learning crap like that in a much more difficult device -- the kanger T3S -- kayfun is a piece of cake next to that!
Maybe what the TC does is slightly flatten the learning curve, for how to coordinate the many variables in getting a "goldilocks" vape...?
Andria
I've never done any higher wattage vaping, but I get the idea that TC is PRIMARILY (not exclusively) a benefit for the modwompers and cloudchasers. (Geez, so many "technical" terms these days)
Us tootlers are less likely to drive and tax our set ups so much to really need the temp restrictions, especially after one takes the time to learn technique.
Plus, many tootlers are older and (like me) stubborn and set in their ways. I equate it to ABS on bikes. I know the reports show that ABS can be a life saver, especially with more spirited riders, but I prefer the old fashioned manual braking system that I'm accustomed to and I don't ride in a fashion that would allow maximum benefit from ABS technology, the rare "Oh, crap" moment aside.
Does that make any sense or am I rambling? (or both?
)
Jay
Us tootlers are less likely to drive and tax our set ups so much to really need the temp restrictions, especially after one takes the time to learn technique.
Plus, many tootlers are older and (like me) stubborn and set in their ways. I equate it to ABS on bikes. I know the reports show that ABS can be a life saver, especially with more spirited riders, but I prefer the old fashioned manual braking system that I'm accustomed to and I don't ride in a fashion that would allow maximum benefit from ABS technology, the rare "Oh, crap" moment aside.
Does that make any sense or am I rambling? (or both?
)Jay
Temperature control is there to prevent dry hits due to insufficient wicking. That can, theoretically, occur at any wattage. I don't vape my tanks empty and I always try to make sure that my wicking and airflow are working fine, so if you do that, TC is just an extra safety measure.
I haven't had a dry hit in years. With those new, improved tanks and my own (correctly built and wicked) RBAs, dry hits are the thing of the past. But I'm a somewhat experienced vaper and I know how to avoid dry wicks (hits).
BTW, some of the nastiest dry hits I've ever experienced occurred at very low wattages--when I used some cartos, eGo-C atomizers and Aspire ET-S BDC... Poor wicking + inadequate airflow = dry hits.
Just my
I've never done any higher wattage vaping, but I get the idea that TC is PRIMARILY (not exclusively) a benefit for the modwompers and cloudchasers. (Geez, so many "technical" terms these days)
Us tootlers are less likely to drive and tax our set ups so much to really need the temp restrictions, especially after one takes the time to learn technique.
Plus, many tootlers are older and (like me) stubborn and set in their ways. I equate it to ABS on bikes. I know the reports show that ABS can be a life saver, especially with more spirited riders, but I prefer the old fashioned manual braking system that I'm accustomed to and I don't ride in a fashion that would allow maximum benefit from ABS technology, the rare "Oh, crap" moment aside.
Does that make any sense or am I rambling? (or both?
Jay
Makes sense and frankly for those cloud chasers, I'm glad TC is one of their choices now.
Temperature control is there to prevent dry hits due to insufficient wicking. That can, theoretically, occur at any wattage. I don't vape my tanks empty and I always try to make sure that my wicking and airflow are working fine, so if you do that, TC is just an extra safety measure.
I haven't had a dry hit in years. With those new, improved tanks and my own (correctly built and wicked) RBAs, dry hits are the thing of the past. But I'm a somewhat experienced vaper and I know how to avoid dry wicks (hits).
BTW, some of the nastiest dry hits I've ever experienced occurred at very low wattages--when I used some cartos, eGo-C atomizers and Aspire ET-S BDC... Poor wicking + inadequate airflow = dry hits.
Just my
Same here - haven't had any dry hits since carto times
For me a short period mid 2010....
You are forgetting one of the big perks of TC vaping..... No dry hitsHey tootle puffers! I'm one as well, and have some questions. I haven't read all 300+ pages but have a general knowledge of what's involved. I have had two TC controlled mods - VS rDNA-40 (no longer) and I recently purchased a Joyetech eVic VT. I'm vaping the VT at @500-540° at 38W and the Ni coil reads .17Ω which I have 'locked'.
If you've seen the phil video on the VT you'll know that the actual temps are lower than what the reading says so, I'm around 420-450° - a bit high but in order to get an equivalent vapor production as a say, 12.5W kanthal coil with the airflow squeezed down for a 'proper' M2L tootle puffing :- ) ... I needed something above 400°. Allowing more airflow, since it tends to cool down the coil, I can vape at a lower temp, but for good vapor production (not clouds), then it almost forces lung inhale, or just a puff of vapor M2L.
I have read and have thought myself that if one is a tootle puffer/flavor chaser rather than a cloud chaser, one might not 'need' temp control. For vaping in general, esp. for those who thought 'cloud chasing' was 'ruining' vaping, I thought TC was near the perfect solution for those who thought that inhaling particles would be something that would be used against us, and TC seemed to - and I think does - solve that particular problem - the vape is a cool vape at certain temps.
On the VT you can see easily (well - in a mirror :- ) what's happening with wattage. Of course this is with the settings above - temp and resistance being constant - but what I see even with the airflow constricted for M2L, that the wattage will fall to around 13-15W (from the 38W initial setting) as temp control takes over. If I open up the airflow a bit more (ie. more than I would do using kanthal), the wattage will drop to the 20-23W level - way above normal tootle puffing with, say, the Defender or Subox with a 1.5Ω kanthal coil set at around 12.5 to 13 Watts (DV's Habana Reserve and JG blend from Ahlusion) - an occasional 15 Watts for espresso and at 8.5-10 Watts for a few lighter flavors.
{I should note here that without the mirror, and just firing the button without inhaling (ie no airflow) the wattage will eventually go down to around 8-9 watts to reach temp levels. But when airflow is included - again - 13-15 Watts is the bottom level to maintain temp. }
The 'question' - IF temp control on the VT doesn't go to, or rarely goes to my 'normal' tootle puffing wattages without TC, and never goes to the lower settings for lighter flavors - ie. if my normal vaping on kanthal isn't reaching temps that could possibly produce a problem - then is TC really not needed for tootle puffing - of 'my' type anyway :- ) ??
That said, I like the VT and have vaped it without TC - nice mod and good tootle puffer in the 'power' VW mode
I can run my kayfun lite with all steel tank with no fear of a nasty dry hit... Just vape it empty.
Also, TC gives you a finer level of control then even VW does. I'm a recent convert to TC....... Don't see myself going back
Temperature control is there to prevent dry hits due to insufficient wicking. That can, theoretically, occur at any wattage. I don't vape my tanks empty and I always try to make sure that my wicking and airflow are working fine, so if you do that, TC is just an extra safety measure.
I haven't had a dry hit in years. With those new, improved tanks and my own (correctly built and wicked) RBAs, dry hits are the thing of the past. But I'm a somewhat experienced vaper and I know how to avoid dry wicks (hits).
BTW, some of the nastiest dry hits I've ever experienced occurred at very low wattages--when I used some cartos, eGo-C atomizers and Aspire ET-S BDC... Poor wicking + inadequate airflow = dry hits.
Just my
I haven't had the "over-wicked" kind in a long time, but still sometimes get the "dry coil" type, if the wick is just gunked up and worn out. I seem to get those more with the japanese cotton pads, than I ever have with regular organic-cotton-ball wicks.
I've tasted a dry hit from a carto -- NO THANK YOU EVER AGAIN! Ditto that for a dry hit from rayon -- there are no words for that foulness.
I guess I just finally figured out the right amount of cotton, so now it works, until the wick needs changing. At some point I might try or own a TC mod, if the prices keep dropping, just because I'm a curious animal, not because I think I really "need" it. But I remain very leery of sub-ohm coils.
Andria
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