Older Folks and Vaping Back Porch - Part 2
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Ah legs, that just infuriates us when we see people parked in those spots that shouldn't and Mike and I have both said something to the people if we catch them - loudly. I wonder what would happen if you parked at the front door and explained that there are no handicap spots? Stores say they can't do anything about it, but they put up handicap signs. Why not one that says they'll be fined without proper handicap signage on their car!
Yeah, neither of us looks handicapped during our good times, though I usually use a cane so that I can tell which way is up. But Jim's Parkinson's can go from good to horrible in five minutes.
I have a number of other questions about being out and about:
Why is there never a place to leave your cart anywhere near the handicapped spots?
Why can't restaurants have at least some chairs with arms on them for people that can't get down or up otherwise?
Why can't they put some kinds of hooks for canes in restrooms?
Why do most places that have wheelchairs available only have one, that they never clean or repair?
And of course in this part of the country, why can't they keep snow and ice off of the entries?
These are all little annoyances, and we've got it easy compared to a lot of other people, but you would think it would just be common sense.
Thought I would pass along this link.
World Health Organization calls for ban on indoor vaping and fruity e-cigarettes
THE VERGE | AUGUST 26, 2014
http://pulse.me/s/2mv7fv
Scary!
Sent from my Galaxy Note 2 Android phone on a keyboard that waaayyy too small (or my thumbs are waaayyy too big).
World Health Organization calls for ban on indoor vaping and fruity e-cigarettes
THE VERGE | AUGUST 26, 2014
http://pulse.me/s/2mv7fv
Scary!
Sent from my Galaxy Note 2 Android phone on a keyboard that waaayyy too small (or my thumbs are waaayyy too big).
I've got an inexpensive trustfire flashlight, that IMHO is pretty darn good for the price. It came w/ 18650 protected batts. Was wondering if I can also use my IMR batts in it? Would you know if I could?
Dont know for sure but i don't see why not, the battery i use in mine is IMR, works fine.
- Dec 18, 2013
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I may have to give up vaping
Janet wants her dinning room table back.
Ridiculous. What's more important? Eatin' or vapin'?
Mike, that secretary is all set up for tinkering with vape stuff. Why are you using the dining room table?
Janet, you are welcome.
Janet, you are welcome.
The secretary cabinet is so organized I don't want to mess it up.
Besides, she recently got a new kitchen table and chairs - so I though I could have the old dinning room table.
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Hey Mike, I just ordered all the stuff to build my SX350 box mod. The chip kit comes with the SX350 board upgraded to 50 watts and the USB charging module. Also ordered a floating pin 510 connection, 2 18650 battery holders, two tactile pushbuttons for up and down, a industrial quality 16mm switch for firing, a hammond aluminum box and a custom 3D printed cover. Now the waiting begins.
Sent from my Galaxy Note 2 Android phone on a keyboard that waaayyy too small (or my thumbs are waaayyy too big).
Sent from my Galaxy Note 2 Android phone on a keyboard that waaayyy too small (or my thumbs are waaayyy too big).
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Oh yeh, wish me luck! 
Sent from my Galaxy Note 2 Android phone on a keyboard that waaayyy too small (or my thumbs are waaayyy too big).
Sent from my Galaxy Note 2 Android phone on a keyboard that waaayyy too small (or my thumbs are waaayyy too big).
Woohoo! Exciting! Sounds like its gonna be really nice.
Oh yeh, wish me luck!
Sent from my Galaxy Note 2 Android phone on a keyboard that waaayyy too small (or my thumbs are waaayyy too big).
I'm still trying to muster the courage to put a hot soldering iron near my board.
Woohoo! Exciting! Sounds like its gonna be really nice.
I'm still trying to muster the courage to put a hot soldering iron near my board.
I understand whole heartedly. The kit I am getting come with all the connections stubbed out to tinned leads. AtoZ Vaping has it.
Sent from my Galaxy Note 2 Android phone on a keyboard that waaayyy too small (or my thumbs are waaayyy too big).
Woohoo! Exciting! Sounds like its gonna be really nice.
I'm still trying to muster the courage to put a hot soldering iron near my board.
Just make sure the iron is fully up to temp first. Tin the wires first. Then insert into board holes and hold at a slight angle to put tension on it. Put the end of the solder on the PC solder trace just off the wire. Put the iron to the TINNED WIRE, the tin will melt and flow, heating the trace, and as soon as the tip of the solder starts to melt (well, you do need to make a small bead), lift off both the solder and the iron. DON'T MOVE UNTIL THE SOLDER CHANGES SURFACE APPEARANCE or you risk a cold solder connection, which will fail sooner or later.
Most electronic solder is 60/40, and will be "pasty" through a brief temperature range. If the connection moves when it's that way, bad connection. I like to use 63/37 for board work, since it doesn't do that - it essentially changes instantly from liquid to solid.
Bigger da Blob, Better da Job...NOT!
Having taught USAF High Reliability Soldering based on NASA curriculum standards, I’d like to share some critical soldering guidelines for ya'll. It's not rocket science; just a lil' physics, common sense and 'touch' (more on that in a bit).
BTW, there was a study that determined that there was, on average, 200 lbs of excess solder on a typical B-52 at the time. Ergo, the soldering course!
Here we go:
- Use 60Sn40Pb rosin-core solder (most common). 63Sn40Pb is ideal due to no plasticity stage, but hard to find locally and not cheap.
- Only use rosin flux for electronics.
- Prep all wires and the soldering tip by using a rosin paste flux and a small amount of solder.
- Dip tip in flux, apply solder, then thermal shock the tip by lightly wiping tip on a water dampened sponge or cotton cloth. This will ‘blow off’/shed tip contaminates.
- Apply a small amount of solder twix the fluxed lead(s) and the tip to build a heat transfer bridge.
- When solder flows, move the solder away from the lead tip to within 1-1½ lead diameter of the stripped wire insulation. Minimal solder with 100% coverage = 'touch'.
- Remove all flux residue from the lead(s)/connection with Denatured Alcohol (DA) using a lint free cloth/wipe. DA does not leave a residue. Rubbing alcohol will suffice, but can leave a slight haze.
- When attaching tinned leads to a circuit board/component, repeat the above steps.
- Add solder to the soldering tip while it’s resting. This minimizes oxidation/erosion of the tip. When you’re finished soldering, just let the blob harden as the tip cools. You will re-prep the tip prior to your next project.
For de-soldering (i.e. circuit boards, speaker lugs), use de-soldering wick to remove old solder. Remember to flux the wicking prior to applying the prepped soldering tip. Also remember to clean the contact point(s) to remove the flux residue. In an emergency de-soldering situation, if ya don't have any de-soldering (wicking) braid, pull some ol' braided shielding off a coax cable (guitar/speaker/TV), stretch it taunt, flux it and suck 'er up.
Do not abrade/scrape the soldering tip to remove solder. You'll be shortening it's life and doing more harm than good.
Do not cut your solder. Use your soldering iron/gun. This seals the solder and prevents rosin 'weeping' and evaporation.
In high vibration and/or stress environments, take extreme care in stripping the insulation. Any nicks that scrape strands and/or removes pre-tinning can be a 'weak link' and a possible failure point.
NEVER reapply heat to a joint without following the steps above. Failing to do so is a common cause for a cold and hazy solder joint. All proper joints should be shiny when using 60/40 solder.
Use an appropriate wattage iron/gun for the job. For cabling, you can use higher wattagse. If you use a very low wattage iron on cabling, you may not have enough heat to melt the solder before contamination occurs, especially for grounding braids. For circuit boards and small leads, use a low wattage iron. The larger ones can, and will fry smaller components.
I have 15W, 25W, 40W irons, a dual 100/140 wattage gun, plus a resistive temp control station. The 25W iron is my go-to for 90% of my soldering. A 15W iron should be just right for your mod circuit board assemblies.
Assuming you follow the guidelines, timing (aka 'touch') is the 'holy grail' if 'saddled' with just one iron. Just establish a good heat bridge and watch for clean solder flow.
I just rewired two mics that had 24 gauge wires (re very small). Had to use the 15 watt pencil iron to prevent insulation burn off.
For circuit board connections, follow the same basic steps outlined above. When de-soldering a circuit board pad that has a hole for component mounting, don't forget to wick both sides of the board.
In critical heat sensitive areas, you can use clip-on heat sinks to protect adjacent micro-circuitry.
In the absence of good ventilation, aim a fan to blow over, not on, your work to remove fumes/smoke.
Do not blow on molten solder! That's another common way to get a cold solder joint. The solder must cool at its own rate for the best connection and maximum integrity.
Cleanliness and proper heat transfer using minimal solder is the key for the best connection! It’s all in the physics, preparations, cleanup and ‘touch’.
Hopefully these guidelines will lead you to zero resistance and reliable connections.
If ya have any questions, corrections or suggestions, please LMK!
Having taught USAF High Reliability Soldering based on NASA curriculum standards, I’d like to share some critical soldering guidelines for ya'll. It's not rocket science; just a lil' physics, common sense and 'touch' (more on that in a bit).
BTW, there was a study that determined that there was, on average, 200 lbs of excess solder on a typical B-52 at the time. Ergo, the soldering course!
Here we go:
- Use 60Sn40Pb rosin-core solder (most common). 63Sn40Pb is ideal due to no plasticity stage, but hard to find locally and not cheap.
- Only use rosin flux for electronics.
- Prep all wires and the soldering tip by using a rosin paste flux and a small amount of solder.
- Dip tip in flux, apply solder, then thermal shock the tip by lightly wiping tip on a water dampened sponge or cotton cloth. This will ‘blow off’/shed tip contaminates.
- Apply a small amount of solder twix the fluxed lead(s) and the tip to build a heat transfer bridge.
- When solder flows, move the solder away from the lead tip to within 1-1½ lead diameter of the stripped wire insulation. Minimal solder with 100% coverage = 'touch'.
- Remove all flux residue from the lead(s)/connection with Denatured Alcohol (DA) using a lint free cloth/wipe. DA does not leave a residue. Rubbing alcohol will suffice, but can leave a slight haze.
- When attaching tinned leads to a circuit board/component, repeat the above steps.
- Add solder to the soldering tip while it’s resting. This minimizes oxidation/erosion of the tip. When you’re finished soldering, just let the blob harden as the tip cools. You will re-prep the tip prior to your next project.
For de-soldering (i.e. circuit boards, speaker lugs), use de-soldering wick to remove old solder. Remember to flux the wicking prior to applying the prepped soldering tip. Also remember to clean the contact point(s) to remove the flux residue. In an emergency de-soldering situation, if ya don't have any de-soldering (wicking) braid, pull some ol' braided shielding off a coax cable (guitar/speaker/TV), stretch it taunt, flux it and suck 'er up.
Do not abrade/scrape the soldering tip to remove solder. You'll be shortening it's life and doing more harm than good.
Do not cut your solder. Use your soldering iron/gun. This seals the solder and prevents rosin 'weeping' and evaporation.
In high vibration and/or stress environments, take extreme care in stripping the insulation. Any nicks that scrape strands and/or removes pre-tinning can be a 'weak link' and a possible failure point.
NEVER reapply heat to a joint without following the steps above. Failing to do so is a common cause for a cold and hazy solder joint. All proper joints should be shiny when using 60/40 solder.
Use an appropriate wattage iron/gun for the job. For cabling, you can use higher wattagse. If you use a very low wattage iron on cabling, you may not have enough heat to melt the solder before contamination occurs, especially for grounding braids. For circuit boards and small leads, use a low wattage iron. The larger ones can, and will fry smaller components.
I have 15W, 25W, 40W irons, a dual 100/140 wattage gun, plus a resistive temp control station. The 25W iron is my go-to for 90% of my soldering. A 15W iron should be just right for your mod circuit board assemblies.
Assuming you follow the guidelines, timing (aka 'touch') is the 'holy grail' if 'saddled' with just one iron. Just establish a good heat bridge and watch for clean solder flow.
I just rewired two mics that had 24 gauge wires (re very small). Had to use the 15 watt pencil iron to prevent insulation burn off.
For circuit board connections, follow the same basic steps outlined above. When de-soldering a circuit board pad that has a hole for component mounting, don't forget to wick both sides of the board.
In critical heat sensitive areas, you can use clip-on heat sinks to protect adjacent micro-circuitry.
In the absence of good ventilation, aim a fan to blow over, not on, your work to remove fumes/smoke.
Do not blow on molten solder! That's another common way to get a cold solder joint. The solder must cool at its own rate for the best connection and maximum integrity.
Cleanliness and proper heat transfer using minimal solder is the key for the best connection! It’s all in the physics, preparations, cleanup and ‘touch’.
Hopefully these guidelines will lead you to zero resistance and reliable connections.
If ya have any questions, corrections or suggestions, please LMK!
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Oh No! We don't want to tempt the children with something that's unhealthy!!
Seems to me people in gov't need to find reasons to create laws to justify their jobs.
Iffy:
I once worked briefly in a Motorola factory, and that list of instructions gives me confidence to replace the chipset on a vamo. Maybe more, but that would be sufficient for the next year. Could you please deposit it at the $aDay place?
I once worked briefly in a Motorola factory, and that list of instructions gives me confidence to replace the chipset on a vamo. Maybe more, but that would be sufficient for the next year. Could you please deposit it at the $aDay place?
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Thank you 0mg. It does keep him occupied though so that's a good thing and then he's not making messes everywhere else!
I've heard it suggested that we shut off the a/c in congressional buildings to discourage year round legislating. Maybe they should also have to take a test to prove that they've actually read the laws that they're voting on. You know they haven't!
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