im new to all this, and i just have some 32 that came w my zap.. i want to order back up wire, and it seems like 30 is popping up more and more in threads
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thanks BJ for the answers"cone shaped dremel diamond bits" added to my brother's Home Depot shopping list
as for the fill holes -- I use the tips of toothpicks for mine & my brother uses small pieces of mesh for his, I take that for optimal wicking -- they'll have to go then
how about use pieces of lowered #ed mesh that have bigger opening areas, ie:270, 250 or 200 mesh...
Like your brothers way better, at least that lets air in.
Are you just searching for "kanthal 30"? I couldn't find A1,but I could find A. Both work just fine.
Like your brothers way better, at least that lets air in.
thanks again BJ -- will go with the better way
You answered your own question, horizontal, any mesh works. The problem is gravitational flow is very hard to control so it is not very reliable. Depending on how loose or big the mesh holes you would have to time how long you can keep it horizontal before it floods and leaks. My test are the ideal situation, if it can do it vertical then horizontal is a cinch. The tighter and smaller the holes in the wick the less the gravitational flow so if the 500 has the most capillary ( enough to handle most coils and chain vaping) and the least gravitational flow, it should give the most constant performance, vertical, horizontal and even upside down.
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I contacted that ebay seller. He said to check on the 17th for restock of 30ga
Thanks for the info
Whats the difference?? I checked out a vendor and they carry 30gauge silver wire... Is silver okay?
Sterling Silver NR Wire AWG 30
From a ecig vendor
Ok. I ran my tank dry on the 12 wrap and found that I don't have enough power to run it to my liking. I'm restricted to 10 watts by the kick and with that many wraps of 30g my conclusion is that you would need more power to the coils. Surprisingly it still produced ok amounts of vapour even with 10w. I think at around 10w on a 75mm wick 7/8 wraps is about as far as you want to go. I have no doubt that BJ is right about the more coils the more vapour ( who in their right mind would doubt BJ ), It's just a matter of having a sufficient amount of power to heat the desired amount of wraps. I really need to get a vv or vw device with more range.
silver is non resistance wire, usually that used on penelope or ody...
you can't use that...
z/vmax is cheaper 5A VV
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Ok guys, I read the topic (not all, I admit it) and ordered some #500 mesh for my Cobra.
Could anyone tell me the size of the "fat wick" i should roll? Width and height please
As I understood, I should roll the mesh without any center hole; and roll it as tight as it can easily enter the cobra hole, right?
Could anyone tell me the size of the "fat wick" i should roll? Width and height please
As I understood, I should roll the mesh without any center hole; and roll it as tight as it can easily enter the cobra hole, right?
It makes a lot of sense that the tightest wick would be most consistent, but I was wondering if you had tried testing this way. I'm sure there will be some that decide to try a tighter wick made with #500 and it will be no better for them than before because they hold their PV horizontal and have found a good balance.
Ok guys, I read the topic (not all, I admit it) and ordered some #500 mesh for my Cobra.
Could anyone tell me the size of the "fat wick" i should roll? Width and height please
As I understood, I should roll the mesh without any center hole; and roll it as tight as it can easily enter the cobra hole, right?
80 mm x 40 mm 4/5 wrap 28 AWG , #500 mesh ~1 ohm
bj,
riddle me this.
So I finally stopped fighting you and did one the way you have suggested. 7 wrap 30g on a prover (yes a VV device :
I cannot for the life of me get any of the coils under the fourth from the top to glow. That and the constant E1 and E8 error messages.
thanks !
Hi ob. I'm starting to wonder if there might be something not quite right with your device (Your atomizer device. Not your power supply device.) Have you checked the 510 connection and the integrity of the power path before DC gets to your coil, to make sure your positive (+) path is completely isolated from your negative (-) all along the way? Just a thought, because I had a similar situation once that was frustrating me endlessly until I realized that one of my insulators had come apart and corrupted the power path. Fixed that up and all was well again.
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As time goes by, the coils and wick get gunked up and there comes a moment the flavor diminishes. Before I would dry burn my setup and was good to go, but sometimes when doing that dry burn, the wick would get too hot and get brittle or mess up my perfect setup. If I dry burned a little less, the coils would not get totally clean. So today I dumped the whole RBA (Cobra), including the tank in an ultrasonic bath with pure grain alcohol for a good 40 minutes and voila: coil and wick clean as a whistle and the setup is like new again. So the myth that the wick will loose it's oxidation has been busted.
Ordered some #500 this morning!!!! I'm exicted. #400 has been working great for me, I can't imagine how much better it's going to with #500 after reading this thread.
I'm exicted. #400 has been working great for me, I can't imagine how much better it's going to with #500 after reading this thread.very clear, thanks!
Did I understand correctly that I have to roll the mesh without any center hole and as tight as it gets into the hole?
yes, tight baby, tight!!! There will be a tiny hole left, pinch that close from bottom and top, success!
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