I only oxidize the top part where the coils touch after rolling it, works perfect!
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Is anyone having issues with the fill screw left in?. I managed to get 100mm #500 in my DID mini, but it doesn't seem to wick at all well with the fill hole blocked.
The Idea of the mini DID is to be pocket friendly, at the moment it leaks.
I saw that video of the line crammed full of #500, but the cap was off, and correct me if I'm wrong but the fill hole is sealed by the cap, was it as stellar with the cap on?
Any more feedback on the 180mm of #270 in the DID std Cyrus? Do you use your fill hole screw in or out?
The Idea of the mini DID is to be pocket friendly, at the moment it leaks.
I saw that video of the line crammed full of #500, but the cap was off, and correct me if I'm wrong but the fill hole is sealed by the cap, was it as stellar with the cap on?
Any more feedback on the 180mm of #270 in the DID std Cyrus? Do you use your fill hole screw in or out?
Yea the line wicks beautifully with the cap on. Don't have a did, but I'm sure someone will be able to comment mate
What size is the mesh you're rolling for the ZAP? Have you removed the insulator in it?
Yes sir, I don't even know where I threw that thing. Whole new world after ditching that thing.
I'm using 100 mm of 500 in the ZAP, it was far too easy to be honest, I'm sure I can get at least 125mm in there
Something I wanted to point out, I have a tendency to twist my wicks in the direction of the wick wrap/counter to the direction of the wick wrap to increase and decrease the diameter of the wick while its in the coil for fine tuning (more or less air between the coils and wick)
The flimsy 270 does not take kindly to this behavior, the free edge (even if its folded) tends to shear and then you get to watch the beautiful shorts along that line which will then refuse to go away
I may start using an outer layer of the brick house mesh quigs sent me for more durability
I'm using 100 mm of 500 in the ZAP, it was far too easy to be honest, I'm sure I can get at least 125mm in there
Something I wanted to point out, I have a tendency to twist my wicks in the direction of the wick wrap/counter to the direction of the wick wrap to increase and decrease the diameter of the wick while its in the coil for fine tuning (more or less air between the coils and wick)
The flimsy 270 does not take kindly to this behavior, the free edge (even if its folded) tends to shear and then you get to watch the beautiful shorts along that line which will then refuse to go away
I may start using an outer layer of the brick house mesh quigs sent me for more durability
Yea the line wicks beautifully with the cap on. Don't have a did, but I'm sure someone will be able to comment mate
But the Line (at least the newish SS Lines) have that breather hole next to the wick hole for venting. When I built my Frankengenny I couldn't get it to wick worth a sh__ till I stuck a piece of 18 gauge syringe through the silicon carto cap the wick went through to vent the tank...when I built my hybrid I ripped off Van design to the mm...including the 1mm breather hole, it's now running 120mm of 500 (ok, my wick hole is a little bigger than the Line but that's it, can't get any more
) and I bored out the breather to 2mm, it wicks awesome (though It craps out on the last 5ml of the 20ml tank, but at that there's almost 2" of exposed wick from the juice level to the coil, is a working model of one of BJ's experiments 
). Point is, as far as I can tell the tanks need venting, especially now that we're packing the fattest, most solid wicks we can in the wick holes, if you plug the fill hole (if that's the only means in which your tank is vented to atmosphere) the best capillary action will be negated by a tank vacuum (and it happens pretty quick), the vent hole doesn't have to be huge (the ZAG's fill/vent hole is pretty small, in fact it could be bigger to get a larger fill needle in there)...but really, that's just my opinion...
Yes sir, I don't even know where I threw that thing. Whole new world after ditching that thing.
I'm using 100 mm of 500 in the ZAP, it was far too easy to be honest, I'm sure I can get at least 125mm in there
Something I wanted to point out, I have a tendency to twist my wicks in the direction of the wick wrap/counter to the direction of the wick wrap to increase and decrease the diameter of the wick while its in the coil for fine tuning (more or less air between the coils and wick)
The flimsy 270 does not take kindly to this behavior, the free edge (even if its folded) tends to shear and then you get to watch the beautiful shorts along that line which will then refuse to go away
I may start using an outer layer of the brick house mesh quigs sent me for more durability
Brick House mesh!
...that's a good name for it...I've been calling it chicken wire...again, always one step behind you Cy...I tried to get 120 into a Line last night (ain't gonna happen) but ya, if you roll your wick with the leading edge away from you and roll away from you, you'll tighten it, if for what ever reason you want to lossen it, flip the wick around and use a lot less pressure...pfft! folded over edges are for girls...I'm finding poking shorts away almost an end of day catharsis
My 10 wrap 28g on a DUD. I spread the 2nd and 3rd coil a little after I saw this pic even tho they were not shorting.
As far as the DID goes, I was NEVER able to get it to work right with that silly fill plug in, regardless of wick
Quigs folded edge, no folded edge, the DID is out to get me. I think its ...... of that the Iranian beat the Greek into submission with 180 mm of wick. The name's Cyrus, not Darius, don't take it personal
Quigs folded edge, no folded edge, the DID is out to get me. I think its ...... of that the Iranian beat the Greek into submission with 180 mm of wick. The name's Cyrus, not Darius, don't take it personal
My 10 wrap 28g on a DUD. I spread the 2nd and 3rd coil a little after I saw this pic even tho they were not shorting.
Amazing...flies in the face of Quigsworth Law#72 (or rate of diminishing returns to coil wrap ratio)...let probability of sucess = Y, and #of coil wraps = X...when plotted, 10 wraps is approaching 6 sigma...aka, ain't gonna happen, ever
My 10 wrap 28g on a DUD. I spread the 2nd and 3rd coil a little after I saw this pic even tho they were not shorting.
Well, that pretty well destroys my idea that I need to use 34g wire on the DUD to get my a resistance in the mid to upper 2s.
emonty, I am assuming you are oxidizing the part that actually makes contact with the device in the hole as well?
My 10 wrap 28g on a DUD. I spread the 2nd and 3rd coil a little after I saw this pic even tho they were not shorting.
nice BJ!! How fast does it heat up and what voltage you have it at?
I threw that POS 270 wick in the trash, I can't avoid shorts along the seam, I think its too brittle to roll as tight as I've been rolling it. 3 wicks and a meter of kanthal in the hole, if medical school hadn't taught me to smile and nod whilst the brain squirts noradrenaline all over the place, the provari would have gone through the wall lol
so how do you avoid the shorting of the metal in the hole where it makes contact with the device?
Hey Quigs, I couldn't help myself and tried a horizontal slit for the inlet, quite a hack job, literally. It didn't entirely slice through, there is a flap on the inside that can be 'adjusted' and directs the air downward. It still looks pretty rough, even though it saw some sandpaper. Not much difference in performance really, but much more effort than drilling a quick hole. I'll have to see if it leaks condensate more over the next couple of days.
It didn't entirely slice through, there is a flap on the inside that can be 'adjusted' and directs the air downward. It still looks pretty rough, even though it saw some sandpaper. Not much difference in performance really, but much more effort than drilling a quick hole. I'll have to see if it leaks condensate more over the next couple of days.
Great feedback guys. So many conflicting posts have been flying about in DIDland about the fill hole screw in and out, kinda realized the #500 stuffed wick hole was causing a vacuum lock but great to have your experience to back it up. My DID std is still running it's 10 wrap 28awg nichrome 1.6ohm 100 mm #500 after 60 mls of juice and scrub with hot water and a toothbrush. It's the most stable setup so far. This combination looks like it will endure forever. Good thing too as my 32 and 30 awg kanthal has been three weeks comming from the US to Oz and still not here
Now I want some 28 kanthal, but, waiting makes me cranky.
I will be making my own genny and battery mod out of SS on a friends lathe next week.
What size should I go on the wick hole? 4mm?
I've been thinking about making a tiny adjustable vent controle valve to fine tune the wicking on the fly so will try to work this into the prototype design. Any thoughts on this, or other ideas on making the best of all known genny science?
Now I want some 28 kanthal, but, waiting makes me cranky.
I will be making my own genny and battery mod out of SS on a friends lathe next week.
What size should I go on the wick hole? 4mm?
I've been thinking about making a tiny adjustable vent controle valve to fine tune the wicking on the fly so will try to work this into the prototype design. Any thoughts on this, or other ideas on making the best of all known genny science?
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