Are you done stocking up?

UncLeJunkLe

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What I've decided to do is do the vinegar bath on the battery cap first. I'll keep checking it because vinegar can damage steel. I've done that before. I won't leave it soaking for more than 48 hours, if that.

If that removes the corrosion, then I will stuff the battery well with something to plug it up, then take a rag with part of it saturated in vinegar and stuff that the rest of the way to cover the threads and let it sit there to do it's job. I hope that works because I don't want to disassemble this particular mod.

I'll clean both very well to get the vinegar out of the threads as much as I can. Maybe neutralize it with baking soda water?
 
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Z-Lee

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    What I've decided to do is do the vinegar bath on the battery cap first. I'll keep checking it because vinegar can damage steel. I've done that before. I won't leave it soaking for more than 48 hours, if that.

    If that removes the corrosion, then I will stuff the battery well with something to plug it up, then take a rag with part of it saturated in vinegar and stuff that the rest of the way to cover the threads and let it sit there to do it's job. I hope that works because I don't want to disassemble this particular mod.

    I'll clean both very well to get the vinegar out of the threads as much as I can. Maybe neutralize it with baking soda water?
    Did you smell it at all?
     

    englishmick

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    This is important and applicable to stocking up and maintaining your stash.

    TL;DR: Tank your batteries out of your mods if you are not going to use the mod for a while.

    I want to stress the importance of never leaving a battery in a mod long term. The most common reason is "quiescent drain". Quiescent drain is the voltage your mod "robs" from your battery when it's "off'. A mod is not really "off" (unless it has a kill switch), it's just in standby waiting, listening for that signal to turn on and get to work. That takes a certain amount of current to run in standby mode, some mods will have more quiescent drain than others. Some Yihi chips are really bad about this and Yihi has refused to fix the issue. I actually vented a battery 2 times leaving it in a mod.

    But the real reason is why I'm posting this - corrosion...

    I had to go out of town about 4 months ago and took a bunch of gear with me. One mod, my oldest Pico 75W, I left in my backpack this whole time with a battery in it. I thought I took the battery out, but apparently I was wrong. When I went to go get it tonight, the battery cap wouldn't budge so I had to get pliers to screw it off. The battery was OK, it still had charge of above 4.0 but not quite 4.2. I used that mod when I was out of town that day so I would say it lost extremely little charge. So that's good in terms of quiescent drain on the Pico 75W.

    But the reason the cap wouldn't come off is because there was this white corrosion all over the battery cap threads and the threads on the body. This definitely wasn't there before. It's a really hard, white, kind of powdery-looking stuff. And it doesn't come off with 91% rubbing alcohol. The mods works despite the corrosion.

    This was obviously due to the battery being in there for too long. I can't think of what else would cause that. But I don't know what this white stuff is, either. It's not on the battery contacts at all. The battery is fine and it's clean. Samsung 25R Green.

    This is the same corrosion I saw someone else post a pic of on their Pico battery about here a year or 2 ago. I believe it was @englishmick. His was was really bad and it was the whole way down the battery tube IIRC. Mine isn't nearly that bad at all. Maybe he he can post that pic here if he still has it (if in fact is was him). It was originally posted in a different thread, I think.

    Tomorrow I'm going to try soaking the cap in vinegar and I'm reasonably confident that will take care of it because I've used a vinegar soak to remove rust a few times. The threads on the mod will be a bit tough since I can't soak that in vinegar without completely disassembling the mod, which I have done before a few times. The screw heads are a little stripped and I had to rig the button a bit as it lost it's soft clicky feel that Picos have. So I'd prefer to leave it alone in that regard as the button works like new now. Without being able to soak it, it'll never get those threads 100 % cleaned.

    Maybe tomorrow, if I'm not feeling lazy, I'll snap a couple pics before I try to clean it.

    Not a big deal as I have other mods to replace it. The reason it bothers me is mostly because I want to see how much longer this mod will last without me doing stupid crap like this. It's about 5-6 years old and was used heavily for at least 4 of those years. Other then the now-fixed fire button, it has a dimmer screen than it did when it was brand new.

    I hope you stockers will learn something from my carelessness (you're welcome :D).

    Yeah, that was me. Don't have the pics any more but they looked exactly like yours. I suspect whatever it was only spread down the inside of the tube after I tried cleaning it off the threads with some solvent and the loose bits got moved around. I didn't get it off with solvent though. I picked up some scraper pens which were recommended here, the set had 4 different brushes from fiber through steel. I had to use the steel pen to scrape the white powder out of the threads, also used a dental pick to loosen it. Took a long time.

    I can't remember whether I left a battery in the mod before it happened. It never happened on any other mod and I still have no idea what it was.

    I did some searching on ECF at the time. Didn't find anything useful but I did find an old thread about "dead electrons" which apparently can cause deposits on screw contacts. Worth checking that out if you haven't seen it. Probably the funniest stuff I ever read on ECF.
     

    BillW50

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    UncleJunkle, you say you think the cap is SS? Anyway maybe juice may have played a small part in all of this? Aluminum corrosion looks a lot like this too. But none of the parts it seems are aluminum.

    Vinegar is mildly acidic with a pH of 2–3 and baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) is alkaline with a pH of 8. So yes, I would think it would be a good idea.
     

    UncLeJunkLe

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    UncleJunkle, you say you think the cap is SS?

    I'm like 99.9991% sure of it. Definitely not aluminum but because of the sound when drop, not chromed brass either. Sounds just like SS.

    Anyway maybe juice may have played a small part in all of this?

    Possible. I didn't store it with an atty on it, but that doesn't mean there wasn't some juice residue on it from before that contributed to this.
     
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    UncLeJunkLe

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    Speaking of Picos...

    eLeaf is coming out with a New Variant in the Pico line.

    Pico LE Mod

    Pico LE Kit


    Too bad for the polished finish. They also won't likley be Arctic Fox friendly from what I understand.

    It looks like Arctic Fox has reached it's end in terms of developers' willingness (or ability) to make it compatible with new mods. I think what's happening is they are making these chips with not enough space on them for custom firmwares. It's hard to say because when you ask if they can accommodate such and such a mod, the only answer is a snarky "no way" or "are you kidding" or some other unuseful response like that.
     

    UncLeJunkLe

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    What I've decided to do is do the vinegar bath on the battery cap first.


    Cap is now soaking in straight white vinegar. I'll check on it in a few hours to see if anything is happening.

    Not a huge deal if I end up ruining the cap. I have spares.

    Vinegar is mildly acidic with a pH of 2–3 and baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) is alkaline with a pH of 8. So yes, I would think it would be a good idea.

    A lot of youtube vids that show you how to remove rust with white vinegar claim you should wash it with backing soda water to neutralize or else the vinegar that's stuck in crevasses can continue to corrode things if not neutralized.
     

    zoiDman

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    Too bad for the polished finish. They also won't likley be Arctic Fox friendly from what I understand.

    It looks like Arctic Fox has reached it's end in terms of developers' willingness (or ability) to make it compatible with new mods. I think what's happening is they are making these chips with not enough space on them for custom firmwares. It's hard to say because when you ask if they can accommodate such and such a mod, the only answer is a snarky "no way" or "are you kidding" or some other unuseful response like that.

    I prefer more of a Brushed SS Finish. But the Polished might be Nice when seen in an actual photo. There is also Black for those who want to Forego the Metallic surface alltogether.

    Does Artic Fox bring any Significant Features to someone who Doesn't Use TC?
     

    UncLeJunkLe

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    Eeleafworld.com has the Istick 20W on sale for 12.99 (china warehouse) and 15.99 (usa warehouse). Black only and simple package only (meaning only USB cable, no wall charger or ego adapter).

    Eleafworld Eleaf Istick 20W

    I wouldn't normally recommend the 20W istick as it has brass 510 threads, but it's a good price and should last a good while if you are easy on the 510 threads and don't remove your atty too much. Other than that, it's a good, small device for tootle puffers. Also be careful with the USB port when you insert and remove the USB cord.
     
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    BillW50

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    Does Artic Fox bring any Significant Features to someone who Doesn't Use TC?

    I think so. I like the puff counter can be changed to any number. I wish EScribe did that. As I like to know how many puffs I get with coils. So if I move an atty from one mod to another, I can move the puff count too. You can also change how things are displayed. So could be useful even in power mode.
     

    zoiDman

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    I think so. I like the puff counter can be changed to any number. I wish EScribe did that. As I like to know how many puffs I get with coils. So if I move an atty from one mod to another, I can move the puff count too. You can also change how things are displayed. So could be useful even in power mode.

    Gotcha.

    The reason I asked was I have never owned a Mod that is running under an Artic Fox firmware.
     

    UncLeJunkLe

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    I prefer more of a Brushed SS Finish.

    Me too.

    Does Artic Fox bring any Significant Features to someone who Doesn't Use TC?

    For me, I use AF for the preheat/booster function. Once I bought a mod with preheat/booster and got hooked, it made me dislike all my older mods that don't have it. (thankfully I don't have many of those mods in my stash. The vast majority were Pico 75W mods and AF was able to bring my Pico 75W & Megas into the preheat world).

    Even on my other Picos (21700 and 25), that do have preheat/boost I still use AF because I like being able to program all my preheat settings and memory banks via my PC. It's cumbersome doing that on the mod. Can also save all these settings to a file and just upload it to a new mod. Instant lol Like transferring all your contacts to a new phone.

    There are some other features AF can bring to a mod besides TC, but I don't really use those.

    ETA: I wish AF could work on Aegis Solo/Max. They don't have preheat but they do have curve, which is OK, but not really that great IMHO.
     
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    somdcomputerguy

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    UncLeJunkLe

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    Vinegar bath worked. Cap is clean.

    @BillW50 I was wrong, these caps a chromed brass with a brushed finish. You can tell by the threads and the scratch in the first pic. I'm surprised they don't strip easily.

    Now onto cleaning the mod's threads.

    Sorry, the pics aren't that great. Don't hire me for your wedding shots.

    cf6RRP2.jpg


    fCjVy06.jpg


    S8W8odP.jpg
     

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