Arlo - dual 18650 DNA20/30 step-by-step how-to

[moflicky]

The fatdaddyvapes connector is the best - is beefy and stainless steel with a brass nut to solder to, but needs to be shortened which can be a pita as you need to shorten 3 parts - the outer casing, the delrin insulator and the center post. The outer casing isn't so bad, but you have to shorten the delrin insulator and center post so they match what you did with the outer casing.

It needs to be shortened? Is it really that tight inside the case?

Fat daddy shipped me a set of 3, so I wonder how it would look/function using an extra brass washer on the outside as well as the inside of the case. That would shorten the inside portion of the connector.

attys aren't going to sit flush on this anyway, so what's an extra couple mms between friends?

If not, use a dremmel saw to cut the pieces?

 

[moflicky]

On another approach, I saw and noticed mamu cut it down and then some how cut a channel in the original pin so you can be adjusted from outside the mod. Slick! My questions to that tweak is what (dremlin?) bit exactly was used (you don't want to remove more surface area than need be, a jewelers screwdriver thickness would be perfect) to cut that slot. Was the pin out and in a vise or in the 510 and used as leverage during surgery ? Secondly, how much adjustment can be made since a wire is soldered to the pin in the mod (probably a trick to this).

I was wondering the same thing (waiting on parts gets you wondering donnit?). if the space is so limited that you have to shorten the fatdaddy 510, how much room will there be to twist your post, and will it eventually wiggle the soldered wire loose from the post?

From my point, I am doing this mod not because I can save money. Heck I am ordering almost 2 of everything. I am not doing it to make multi-units. I am doing it out of interest of the inner working (electrical/resistance/materials/etc) and beefing up my knowledge of the vaping worlds internals. To appreciate and be able to spot exceptional work and materials when buying future mods, whether mass produced or from talented modders. And as a bonus hope to enjoy this finished mod as much as any other mass produced one.

LOL! I've ordered double or triple the quantity I need. I even have two charging stations - in case I decide to make two (or screw up the first one). I have about $200 in parts, supplies and tools bought or ordered so far. I even got a blank PCB to practice soldering wires to boards before I put a hot iron to the DNA.

I have a db modz dna30 box coming in a week or so, but doing this myself will be so friggin cool! Even if it ends up wrapped in duct tape, I'll love it. ;-)

 

[madburg]

I want to try to kinda avoid epoxy at the 510 connector and maybe the chip so taking it apart later if needed won't be such a pita.. Maybe a double sided adhesive? Is there a way to remove epoxy safely from this mod if needed?

A question to this point made, not questioning mamu for epoxying the DNA board but for knowledge sake since I have no idea, doesnt the DNA board check if things are overheating and shutdown if so. Would/could the epoxy either retain or cause increase in heat at the board? Again just a knowledge question not challenging the method.

 

[mamu]

A question to this point made, not questioning mamu for epoxying the DNA board but for knowledge sake since I have no idea, doesnt the DNA board check if things are overheating and shutdown if so. Would/could the epoxy either retain or cause increase in heat at the board? Again just a knowledge question not challenging the method.

I've not had heat retaining issues with using epoxy on areas (fours corners mostly) on the underside of the DNA board. I use gel epoxy though which softens when heated then hardens again when cool.

 

[moflicky]

Has anyone found a suitable replacement low profile firing switch yet?

If I can't find one, I may just use one the tiny domed up/down buttons.

I'm also considering moving all the buttons up and the dna down to make more room for the 510 connection - but of course this is all speculation until I get my enclosure and start dry fitting stuff.

 

[madburg]

Has anyone found a suitable replacement low profile firing switch yet?

If I can't find one, I may just use one the tiny domed up/down buttons.

I'm also considering moving all the buttons up and the dna down to make more room for the 510 connection - but of course this is all speculation until I get my enclosure and start dry fitting stuff.

No luck on the firing button yet, spent hours going through various electric part makers...

Thank you for the reply mamu! From the instructions PDF it looked like the entire back off the dna screen received epoxy and then you sunk the entire DNA board into that epoxy, not the four corners. So figured best to ask and learn.

 

[sanjosse]

Mamu, you're a credit to the vaping community, thanks for making this possible!

I have a DNA30 coming from mike's offering, but I'm still trying to decide on which way to go, yours or the Tibs2. I guess I'll wait and see what prices they're capable of. I like your box better cause it has the display above the UP/DWN buttons, and plus it has a flashlight… too cool

 

[mamu]

...From the instructions PDF it looked like the entire back off the dna screen received epoxy and then you sunk the entire DNA board into that epoxy, not the four corners. So figured best to ask and learn.

That's correct - with the Arlo build I applied gel epoxy all along the underside of the board. With the batts being so close to the board, I thought it better to do the entire underside of the board. You could also do just the 4 corners if you want as long as the board is secure and immobile - that's what I do with most builds using the DNA.

I'm not sure if heat dissipation is a concern as some epoxies dissipate heat better than air, but if you're curious about the different types of epoxies, read up on it. You can safely mount the board in a bed of resin or epoxy suitable for embedding, or encapsulating, electronics. I use only gel epoxy on the board. Some modders use hot glue to mount and secure the board, but I've had really good results using gel epoxy if I need to get the board or screen out without damage or without a gooey mess from heating in order to soften and remove the epoxy.

I would hope that no one uses something like jb weld which has steel in it or a high temp curing epoxy that might damage the components or solder connections.

 

[moflicky]

I found this. It is bigger around than Mamu's original, but I don't think it's much deeper.

16mm Momentary Black Metal Pushbutton Switch with Screw Terminal Round Top | eBay

 

[Kataphraktos]

I just got three of these. The depth is exactly 0.75 inches.

I also picked up one of these to try it out.

 

[moflicky]

I just got three of these. The depth is exactly 0.75 inches.

I also picked up one of these to try it out.

I saw the first one - but I'm not a fan of how far it sticks out - but I may not have any choice in the matter.

I think I have 4 or 5 different style buttons on order (buttons are quickly becoming the most expensive part of this mod! ;-) ) so I'll have a few to choose from - can't wait for my enclosure comes so I know what I have to work with. [poking around using different google search terms] hrmm. found this:

PV2F240NN E-Switch | Mouser

3/4 inches inside depth. but holy hell, mouser wants to charge me $20 for shipping on a $5 button?


I REALLY love the looks of that 2nd button - very steam punkish - but I don't think it goes with this mod.

 

[madburg]

I just got three of these. The depth is exactly 0.75 inches.

I rather pull a rope to vape then use that one, I see that button all over the place on mods and just can't appreciate a mods with that button on it.

I also picked up one of these to try it out.

Saw that a while back really nice, but not for this build.

 

[madburg]

I found this. It is bigger around than Mamu's original, but I don't think it's much deeper.

16mm Momentary Black Metal Pushbutton Switch with Screw Terminal Round Top | eBay

The one mamu has in the document is 17 OD and this one is 23 OD deep. I would go for this unless mamu blessed this will work to get the batteries to fit (width of switch), not touch the DNA board (depth) and lastly room to get all the wiring around it.

 

[madburg]

That's correct - with the Arlo build I applied gel epoxy all along the underside of the board. With the batts being so close to the board, I thought it better to do the entire underside of the board. You could also do just the 4 corners if you want as long as the board is secure and immobile - that's what I do with most builds using the DNA.

I'm not sure if heat dissipation is a concern as some epoxies dissipate heat better than air, but if you're curious about the different types of epoxies, read up on it. You can safely mount the board in a bed of resin or epoxy suitable for embedding, or encapsulating, electronics. I use only gel epoxy on the board. Some modders use hot glue to mount and secure the board, but I've had really good results using gel epoxy if I need to get the board or screen out without damage or without a gooey mess from heating in order to soften and remove the epoxy.

I would hope that no one uses something like jb weld which has steel in it or a high temp curing epoxy that might damage the components or solder connections.

Thank you so much for all that info!!!

 

[Kataphraktos]

I rather pull a rope to vape then use that one, I see that button all over the place on mods and just can't appreciate a mods with that button on it.

I am trying to imagine this. Vape-on-a-rope? A small bit of rope emerging from the hole where the switch should be?

Saw that a while back really nice, but not for this build.

You are thinking of the black case. Now on the white version...

 

[madburg]

I am trying to imagine this. Vape-on-a-rope? A small bit of rope emerging from the hole where the switch should be?

Tie the rope to an anchor and have to drop it each time LOL anything just not that switch!!!

You are thinking of the black case. Now on the white version...

U have to post some pic for us all when you put her together!!!

 

[Visus]

I saw the first one - but I'm not a fan of how far it sticks out - but I may not have any choice in the matter.

I think I have 4 or 5 different style buttons on order (buttons are quickly becoming the most expensive part of this mod! ;-) ) so I'll have a few to choose from - can't wait for my enclosure comes so I know what I have to work with. [poking around using different google search terms] hrmm. found this:

PV2F240NN E-Switch | Mouser

3/4 inches inside depth. but holy hell, mouser wants to charge me $20 for shipping on a $5 button?


I REALLY love the looks of that 2nd button - very steam punkish - but I don't think it goes with this mod.

Thanks to CraigHb -- learned you can shoot mouser an email and tell them you want usps cheapest mailing option. I think its priority -- maybe standard, like a buck or two.

 

[moflicky]

Thanks to CraigHb -- learned you can shoot mouser an email and tell them you want usps cheapest mailing option. I think its priority -- maybe standard, like a buck or two.

I went back, logged in instead of just visiting as guest and it let me choose a better shipping option. still a little pricey at $6 and change for usps priority, but hey, I've already broken the bank on my first mod building experience. I could have bought a brand new one at this rate I keep telling myself - it's not about the money!

 

[moflicky]

I rather pull a rope to vape then use that one, I see that button all over the place on mods and just can't appreciate a mods with that button on it.

I really think the most important part of any mod is the switch. how clicky is it? does it look out of place? is it easy to reach while holding it? I'm really hoping the black one will fit. I'll grind down the posts and the insulator if I have to - the posts look like hex nuts, maybe they come off?

we'll see.

 

[moflicky]

Yay! my box is in Chicago!