Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!

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sark666

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Dec 17, 2013
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toronto, ontario, canada
I am picking up the tobeco version today. I've dealt with cleaning a fairly nasty kfl (actually a tobeco version) in the past so I think I've got that covered, but my question is how much are people tearing this down for cleaning/soaking? Complete teardown and remove every oring? If all orings are removed are there certain ones that should be lubed up prior to putting back on?

I'd prefer not to remove the orings if I don't have to but I believe I read elsewhere it was required for the tobeco version for a good cleaning. Not to mention it comes with no spares (w t h tobeco...) So I'd hate to damage one upon removing/reapplying.

Side rant: how much would you pay extra if these were cleaned properly? If it was 5 bucks more but I knew it was prestine out of the box I'd pay it.
 

sob80sup81

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Dec 12, 2009
204
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Hi all, just received my Tobeco clone yesterday to replace my prehistoric Aga T2.

So far, it's been performing very well, thanks to all the Youtube videos on this rta.

Only thing i'm not able to figure out is how to resolve the gurgling issue. No leak, no airflow blockage, but it clearly gurgles when I draw.

Appreciate if anyone is able to help on this.

Update: found out from another thread that gurgles happen when the airflow controller screwed to deep. Adjusted for airier draw and no more gurgles

Cheers.
 
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Spiceman1967

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May 30, 2014
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When I first got the Tobeco I was using pre-made coils. Today I went by a vape shop and picked up some kanthal so I could try my hand at wrapping my own coils. It's not the prettiest but it works.

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Sent from the time vortex.

Nice job. Looks WAY better than my first coil :toast:
 

Spiceman1967

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Well, I got me Tobeco from Atemus Custom yesterday. Upon inspection and disassembly for cleaning I did find a couple holes in #26 and #8 that had some burrs. I used some 25 gauge wire and pushed out the burrs with no problem.

There was a very slight hint of machine oil so after dissassembly I let it soak in hot water and Dawn dish soap for about 30 minutes. I left all the o-rings on because I didn't feel like pulling all of them. I then took a toothbrush and lightly scrubbed them, dried them out and put it all together. All parts fit together very well and the threads are really smooth. The JC is great and isn't too loose or too tight.

I built a .2 nickel coil and it is performing well on my DNA40. The first couple times I closed and opened the JC, I got the "Is this a new coil message" on the DNA. But since then it has been pretty stable. I may try the Dwcraig fix and add a piece in there to see how it works.

Overall, this Tobecco is performing very well. The flavor is good and the Vape is nice and warm and no gurgling. I haven't messed with the air regulation screw yet, but may open it up a little more. It is a little tighter draw than I want. Also, I think i am starving my wick (cut too short) and need to go in and re-wick.
 

dwcraig1

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Mar 17, 2012
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I hate Tobeco, long story, I just ordered one (Tobeco)in matt.

So here's what I got today, I ordered 10 x 1.5 and 11 x 1.5 o-rings and put them on both clones. The one I took to work seeped juice out the air holes all night, never flooding the wick just in part "A'
Here's what I found, the # 16 o-ring doesn't seal on the corners as if it's groove is not machined correctly. This is FT type "A"
Also #18 fit too tight on the earlier one.
Put on the SAE ones when I got home, 5/16" x 1/16" for #18 and 3/8" x 1/16" for #16. Although the ID is smaller the cross section is a bit thicker so they provide a tighter seal.
Kind of ticked me off so I ordered the Tobeco.
Oh ya, no leaks now.
 
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Raguvian

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Verified Member
Dec 21, 2014
394
299
Houston
I am picking up the tobeco version today. I've dealt with cleaning a fairly nasty kfl (actually a tobeco version) in the past so I think I've got that covered, but my question is how much are people tearing this down for cleaning/soaking? Complete teardown and remove every oring? If all orings are removed are there certain ones that should be lubed up prior to putting back on?

I'd prefer not to remove the orings if I don't have to but I believe I read elsewhere it was required for the tobeco version for a good cleaning. Not to mention it comes with no spares (w t h tobeco...) So I'd hate to damage one upon removing/reapplying.

Side rant: how much would you pay extra if these were cleaned properly? If it was 5 bucks more but I knew it was prestine out of the box I'd pay it.

I didn't take any of the o rings off, just put them in dawn and water and scrubbed with a toothbrush. However, I still get a faint machine oil taste. After I finish this tank I'm going to do another dawn and hot water soak and scrub it down again. Like you I don't want to damage any of the o rings and have it leak. I think the machine oil taste will go away on its own after a few tanks anyways.
 

roxynoodle

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Jun 19, 2014
15,344
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Ohio
My FT did stop leaking after I put on the correct #16 o ring (I changed all the o rings). But with my base being messed up, I just can't vape it. Mark is going to try to fix the base so I sent it to him this morning. Maybe he can get the 510 pin out.

I did buy a Tobeco the other day. Hoping to use both though :)
 

Marc411

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Mar 17, 2014
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Dry hits on the Code Vape K4!

I took a run at the Code Vape K4 today just to see how it compares to the Tobeco and I can't get this thing to wick properly to save my life.

I pressure tested the tank and it's solid, no air leaks with juice loaded in the tank. My build is exactly the same as the Tobeco and the resistance on the build is very stable. All the channels were cleaned and the deck movement is perfect.

The wick isn't blocking the juice holes, the cotton is just barely off the deck right above them, damn near perfect.

Thoughts.
 
So I am thinking about doing a dual coil build. I cannot figure out the best way to use all 4 screws. Seems like the people on youtube are just putting the coils in the same direction and wrapping the same way, just across both screws. It seems like you should put them in opposite directions and use all 4 screws independently, but would leave one positive and one negative "tails" very close together which makes me nervous. This is of course having the coils (and subsequently the wicks) pointing towards the juice holes. Anyone have a suggestion on the best way to do this? Thanks.
 

KTMRider

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Jul 5, 2014
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Got the Tobeco one sitting in pieces in front of me. Haven't vaped it yet, but on first glance, it's very clean. Very faint machine oil smell, so I put it in a 30 minute soap + hot water bath and then scrubbed it with a toothbrush. Hopefully that will take care of any weird taste. Machining seems to be better as well. I didn't take it apart completely (didn't take the JC apart) but all air and liquid holes are clean and no burrs or weird pieces of metal are stuck in the juice channels. So far so good!

Also, interestingly, the frosted full plastic tank seems a bit sturdier than the FT clear tank.

I just hope the air flow is better. Even with the air screw removed on the FT version it's still too restrictive for a lung inhale for me, and even for a mouth to lung inhale it's still a bit tight. Although, that's probably going to be the same with both versions (and the authentic) and I should probably just get the 4S kit.

There is an air chamber in the JC part (A) so if you don't take that apart, you'll have some machine oil taste from there.


Dry hits on the Code Vape K4!

I took a run at the Code Vape K4 today just to see how it compares to the Tobeco and I can't get this thing to wick properly to save my life.

I pressure tested the tank and it's solid, no air leaks with juice loaded in the tank. My build is exactly the same as the Tobeco and the resistance on the build is very stable. All the channels were cleaned and the deck movement is perfect.

The wick isn't blocking the juice holes, the cotton is just barely off the deck right above them, damn near perfect.

Thoughts.

Check the juice holes with a piece of wire to make sure they're all clear. I used a piece of 28g kanthal wire to poke down to see if it was clear. The wick should touch the deck of the juice holes but not block them. My first build was with a short wick and it was dry hits after the initial juice from the build burned off. I made the wick longer, touching the deck and it works great now.


Ohhh how I wish I got a black K4. Looks great.

Glad to see that USPS didn't completely lose your order.

It definitely looks good but you can't see the details of the atomizer in all black so I ordered a silver one. I finally got to run mine in the "pregnant" mode with the center glass section and I like it a lot :D
 

ricks

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Jan 11, 2011
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Ohhh how I wish I got a black K4. Looks great.

Glad to see that USPS didn't completely lose your order.

Thanks, Me too. At the post office where it was delayed(lost), they said it departed from there 2 times??? On Jan 16, they said it departed at 9:41 PM. And Today it departed at 5:51 AM. Strange but at least I got it. Now for a cleaning and get it Vaping.
 

NeuReleases

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Dec 10, 2014
70
63
Fairfield, CT
Welp my buddy was able to get me a hcigar clone at F&F price so I actually managed to get it for $40 shipped to the states. Will be doing a full review when it gets here. Supplier tested it and it is indeed 316ss. They've consistently impressed me with the quality of their past clones and so I said screw it and spent the $40, from what I've heard it should be worth it.
 
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