Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!

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KTMRider

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I'm going take a guess here that on the original the groove for o-ring 16 on part 17 is not the same depth on the corners as on the straight sections. And on the clones, or at least on some of them the groove is the same depth the whole way around. I no longer have an original or the ability to measure that closely.

Either that or they milled out (5) just a hair too much. Or the o-ring wasn't the right size. Tobeco got it right though because my black version is absolutely perfect.


You have to tip them better, at x-mas...

Pfft. I had to go to the PO for at least half my packages.They're lucky if they get coal :p
 

cobaltxblue

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I dropped one of mine today (good thing I had but the PMMA tank on earlier) from about 3.5 feet with no super serious issues issues off of the bat. I am having a bit of freeze up with the juice control since, but I will just grab the vice grip and see if I am just not holding things firmly enough as everything was good earlier.
 

KTMRider

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I got my replacement parts for the FT version today. This is how I wanted to run this for 2 weeks now. Finally! (And new Cloupor Mini)

DSC_2279_zps37a3ad8b.jpg
 

TheKiwi

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I got mine from theoringstore

I basically bought every single oring size shown in the k4 parts list, and every single oring size in the erlk chart.

There are minimum number for each size. Some's 5, some is 10.

I bought myself 50x 1mm x 2mm. Those are my fav orings (ha yes I have a favorite oring size)

Side note. It finally dawned on me that the orings #6 and #16 that came with my FT type A was completely wrong, and that's why it was always bleeding at the seams above the air hole ring, and I get some gurgling

Replaced them and it's solid now. Only thing is after replacing with the right #16, juice control is significantly stiffer.


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nelsonm64

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I'm going take a guess here that on the original the groove for o-ring 16 on part 17 is not the same depth on the corners as on the straight sections. And on the clones, or at least on some of them the groove is the same depth the whole way around. I no longer have an original or the ability to measure that closely.

I think you nailed it bang on!
 

nelsonm64

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Either that or they milled out (5) just a hair too much. Or the o-ring wasn't the right size. Tobeco got it right though because my black version is absolutely perfect.




Pfft. I had to go to the PO for at least half my packages.They're lucky if they get coal :p
if I can't fix it with orings I might follow your lead and go for a tobeco :)
 

Garemlin

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I got mine from theoringstore

I basically bought every single oring size shown in the k4 parts list, and every single oring size in the erlk chart.

There are minimum number for each size. Some's 5, some is 10.

I bought myself 50x 1mm x 2mm. Those are my fav orings (ha yes I have a favorite oring size)

Side note. It finally dawned on me that the orings #6 and #16 that came with my FT type A was completely wrong, and that's why it was always bleeding at the seams above the air hole ring, and I get some gurgling

Replaced them and it's solid now. Only thing is after replacing with the right #16, juice control is significantly stiffer.


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OMG o-ring information overload. LOL

So what material should we be using??? And you said you ordered o-rings for the Lemo. Does that included the flat tank o-rings???
 

TheKiwi

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OMG o-ring information overload. LOL

So what material should we be using??? And you said you ordered o-rings for the Lemo. Does that included the flat tank o-rings???

Oh nope. Just for the chimney and the 510. Those flat ones I have no clue where.

I also bought BunaN 70 for all. It was the only grade of polymer with 1.0mm cross section, and were not overly stiff. (Based entirely off the descriptions of each material on the website. Some were prone to abrasive damage, some were stiff etc)


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