Ok I personally oversaw the operation of attaching it to the back of a turtle and pointing him north today at my local USPS.I got to try some of that rayon.
Ok I personally oversaw the operation of attaching it to the back of a turtle and pointing him north today at my local USPS.I got to try some of that rayon.
if I can't fix it with orings I might follow your lead and go for a tobeco![]()
Oh nope. Just for the chimney and the 510. Those flat ones I have no clue where.
I also bought BunaN 70 for all. It was the only grade of polymer with 1.0mm cross section, and were not overly stiff. (Based entirely off the descriptions of each material on the website. Some were prone to abrasive damage, some were stiff etc)
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While my Tobeco is soaking (wasn't too bad) I'll post about my thoughts while I was tearing it down. Extremely well made, so much so that if put into one of the cloned boxes some real problems could be created. I hope that this doesn't inspire anyone to do so.
The only thing that I see that's a little off is when down to parts 3 - 9 these parts are a bit loose, probably create a wobble when liquid control is less than fully open, yet to be seen though.
NO WOBBLE WHEN ASSEMBLED
While my Tobeco is soaking (wasn't too bad) I'll post about my thoughts while I was tearing it down. Extremely well made, so much so that if put into one of the cloned boxes some real problems could be created. I hope that this doesn't inspire anyone to do so.
The only thing that I see that's a little off is when down to parts 3 - 9 these parts are a bit loose, probably create a wobble when liquid control is less than fully open, yet to be seen though.
NO WOBBLE WHEN ASSEMBLED
After messing with taking out the 510 to adjust the AFC, I loosened that entire internal section and that's what caused my gaps. The 510 was pushing #9 and wasn't threading back into it so not only did I have "the gap", I was getting off ohm readings from time to time, the pin was literally just sitting inside the shaft. Decided to tear it down a few days ago, got it sorted, now its back 100%! I'm not even touching the AFC on my 2nd one hah..While my Tobeco is soaking (wasn't too bad) I'll post about my thoughts while I was tearing it down. Extremely well made, so much so that if put into one of the cloned boxes some real problems could be created. I hope that this doesn't inspire anyone to do so.
The only thing that I see that's a little off is when down to parts 3 - 9 these parts are a bit loose, probably create a wobble when liquid control is less than fully open, yet to be seen though.
NO WOBBLE WHEN ASSEMBLED
The only, and not that bad, things that I discovered were the ends of the spring are round not flt and the little edge of insulator #16 where it protrudes up between the positive and negative posts is paper thin, again not too bad of a problem.
All and all it compares directly to the original in fit and finish. (hate PM's incoming)
After messing with taking out the 510 to adjust the AFC, I loosened that entire internal section and that's what caused my gaps. The 510 was pushing #9 and wasn't threading back into it so not only did I have "the gap", I was getting off ohm readings from time to time, the pin was literally just sitting inside the shaft. Decided to tear it down a few days ago, got it sorted, now its back 100%! I'm not even touching the AFC on my 2nd one hah..
After messing with taking out the 510 to adjust the AFC, I loosened that entire internal section and that's what caused my gaps. The 510 was pushing #9 and wasn't threading back into it so not only did I have "the gap", I was getting off ohm readings from time to time, the pin was literally just sitting inside the shaft. Decided to tear it down a few days ago, got it sorted, now its back 100%! I'm not even touching the AFC on my 2nd one hah..
The 19 x 1.5 mm o-rings for the K4 center tank section fit the Nemo tank ends just fine.Oh nope. Just for the chimney and the 510. Those flat ones I have no clue where.
I also bought BunaN 70 for all. It was the only grade of polymer with 1.0mm cross section, and were not overly stiff. (Based entirely off the descriptions of each material on the website. Some were prone to abrasive damage, some were stiff etc)
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Be careful with the black one , China paint . would not trust it.
You mean like how Infinites black Magma clones used to turn green??Paint, anodized ,powdercoated, whatever, it is still China, watch it carefully. I know Rip Trippers had a problem with an rba that was colored and had leaching problems. I don't let anything colored touch my juice.
Paint, anodized ,powdercoated, whatever, it is still China, watch it carefully. I know Rip Trippers had a problem with an rba that was colored and had leaching problems. I don't let anything colored touch my juice.
Haha, my "proud and British" Vox amplifier was made in Vietnam. I'm branching out to the rest of Asia.My whole life just about is China nowadays.