Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!

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dwcraig1

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While my Tobeco is soaking (wasn't too bad) I'll post about my thoughts while I was tearing it down. Extremely well made, so much so that if put into one of the cloned boxes some real problems could be created. I hope that this doesn't inspire anyone to do so.
The only thing that I see that's a little off is when down to parts 3 - 9 these parts are a bit loose, probably create a wobble when liquid control is less than fully open, yet to be seen though.
NO WOBBLE WHEN ASSEMBLED
The only, and not that bad, things that I discovered were the ends of the spring are round not flt and the little edge of insulator #16 where it protrudes up between the positive and negative posts is paper thin, again not too bad of a problem.
All and all it compares directly to the original in fit and finish. (hate PM's incoming)

BTY, I replaced the spring with an original one. vaping it as I type.
 
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KTMRider

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if I can't fix it with orings I might follow your lead and go for a tobeco :)

I have another Tobeco coming. Should be here Friday.


Oh nope. Just for the chimney and the 510. Those flat ones I have no clue where.

I also bought BunaN 70 for all. It was the only grade of polymer with 1.0mm cross section, and were not overly stiff. (Based entirely off the descriptions of each material on the website. Some were prone to abrasive damage, some were stiff etc)


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Square O-rings Buna - Nitrile - Tetraseals® or lathe-cut rings
 

Mtek

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While my Tobeco is soaking (wasn't too bad) I'll post about my thoughts while I was tearing it down. Extremely well made, so much so that if put into one of the cloned boxes some real problems could be created. I hope that this doesn't inspire anyone to do so.
The only thing that I see that's a little off is when down to parts 3 - 9 these parts are a bit loose, probably create a wobble when liquid control is less than fully open, yet to be seen though.
NO WOBBLE WHEN ASSEMBLED

This is amazing, glad it's working out. Ya know, it's nice they use their own packaging. Some of those you don't know who manuf, and people buying don't know which to buy. I also thinks it gives them some type of accountability as their name is on it. If I was going the clone route, I would go tobeco just based on this thread.
 

cobaltxblue

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Nov 24, 2014
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While my Tobeco is soaking (wasn't too bad) I'll post about my thoughts while I was tearing it down. Extremely well made, so much so that if put into one of the cloned boxes some real problems could be created. I hope that this doesn't inspire anyone to do so.
The only thing that I see that's a little off is when down to parts 3 - 9 these parts are a bit loose, probably create a wobble when liquid control is less than fully open, yet to be seen though.
NO WOBBLE WHEN ASSEMBLED

I had an issue with 3-9 on my AMOD clone at one point and oh yea, she wobbled like a .....
 

Monotremata

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While my Tobeco is soaking (wasn't too bad) I'll post about my thoughts while I was tearing it down. Extremely well made, so much so that if put into one of the cloned boxes some real problems could be created. I hope that this doesn't inspire anyone to do so.
The only thing that I see that's a little off is when down to parts 3 - 9 these parts are a bit loose, probably create a wobble when liquid control is less than fully open, yet to be seen though.
NO WOBBLE WHEN ASSEMBLED
The only, and not that bad, things that I discovered were the ends of the spring are round not flt and the little edge of insulator #16 where it protrudes up between the positive and negative posts is paper thin, again not too bad of a problem.
All and all it compares directly to the original in fit and finish. (hate PM's incoming)
After messing with taking out the 510 to adjust the AFC, I loosened that entire internal section and that's what caused my gaps. The 510 was pushing #9 and wasn't threading back into it so not only did I have "the gap", I was getting off ohm readings from time to time, the pin was literally just sitting inside the shaft. Decided to tear it down a few days ago, got it sorted, now its back 100%! I'm not even touching the AFC on my 2nd one hah..
 

pocariboy73

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Nov 6, 2014
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After messing with taking out the 510 to adjust the AFC, I loosened that entire internal section and that's what caused my gaps. The 510 was pushing #9 and wasn't threading back into it so not only did I have "the gap", I was getting off ohm readings from time to time, the pin was literally just sitting inside the shaft. Decided to tear it down a few days ago, got it sorted, now its back 100%! I'm not even touching the AFC on my 2nd one hah..

Thanks for posting that. In retrospect, I think the same thing happened to me when I mucked about and removed the tiny AFC screw. No doubt it further loosened something that was already too loose to begin with.

I'll be sure to leave my 2nd one on order which will arrive tomorrow alone. I've read that AFC screw makes no major difference anyways. Screwed in or taken out.

Who knows?
 
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granolaboy

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Just got mine today! Feels solid, the build deck and center air hole looked bigger to me in pictures than they do in real life. Threads feel clean. Decent build quality.

Everything is nicely engraved, which is nice for a clone, usually they just etch it...not that I'm a huge fan of copying logos BUT MOVING ON...

This is the packaging without the gift box. A bit underwhelming, but it showed up in fine condition.

Here's quick pics with my crummy camera:

kayfun1.jpg

kayfun2.jpg

kayfun3.jpg

kayfun4.jpg

kayfun5.jpg

kayfun6.jpg

kayfun7.jpg

kayfun8.jpg

kayfun9.jpg


I'll do a build on it and see how it goes. Haven't taken apart the bottom section yet to check out the AFC...will post more.

Looks like the Tobeco clone is a win so far. Let's see if I regret not getting one :)
 
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Raguvian

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After messing with taking out the 510 to adjust the AFC, I loosened that entire internal section and that's what caused my gaps. The 510 was pushing #9 and wasn't threading back into it so not only did I have "the gap", I was getting off ohm readings from time to time, the pin was literally just sitting inside the shaft. Decided to tear it down a few days ago, got it sorted, now its back 100%! I'm not even touching the AFC on my 2nd one hah..

Glad to hear you got it sorted out! I took a giant flat head screwdriver to #9 so I could get it as tight as possible on the Tobeco and it works great. Nothing has loosened yet.
 

dwcraig1

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Oh nope. Just for the chimney and the 510. Those flat ones I have no clue where.

I also bought BunaN 70 for all. It was the only grade of polymer with 1.0mm cross section, and were not overly stiff. (Based entirely off the descriptions of each material on the website. Some were prone to abrasive damage, some were stiff etc)


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The 19 x 1.5 mm o-rings for the K4 center tank section fit the Nemo tank ends just fine.
 

demik

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Aug 4, 2014
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I just received the tobeco KF4 and it's in the bath now. Seems pretty well machined, except around the juice channels:

While cleaning, I found a few microscopic pieces of shaved metal around the juice feeding holes (as a few others have posted already). I then unwound a paperclip and started pushing through each hole till I saw "just the tip" coming out the other end. I found a couple more metal shavings. It also had some jagged edges towards the bottom around the "entrance" hole where juice feeds into the chamber. I almost missed this since as a whole, the Tobeco clone is pretty solid/well machined. Just wanted to share because the metal shavings seemed rather hazardous.
 

Monotremata

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Paint, anodized ,powdercoated, whatever, it is still China, watch it carefully. I know Rip Trippers had a problem with an rba that was colored and had leaching problems. I don't let anything colored touch my juice.
You mean like how Infinites black Magma clones used to turn green?? :)
 

dwcraig1

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Paint, anodized ,powdercoated, whatever, it is still China, watch it carefully. I know Rip Trippers had a problem with an rba that was colored and had leaching problems. I don't let anything colored touch my juice.

My whole life just about is China nowadays.
 
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