Authentic Svoemesto Kayfun 5

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JoeBattams

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Anyone else using the MTL kit finding that they are getting dry hits? I've never got dry hits in a kayfun before (unless obviously setting the wattage too high), but with the MTL adapter installed (have change to the 'middle' one), try as I might I keep getting dry hits!! Have rewicked now so many times and have tried both cottons and rayon- only thing I can think of is that because the kit reduces the airflow it messes up the wicking by reducing the vacuum effect. In contrast, the kayfun mini 3 being designed in the first place for a more restricted airflow and the vacuum designed accordingly... Hope this is not the case though [emoji53][emoji53]


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Bronze

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That, Sir Bronze, is what makes me think I've got a bad one.
Any time I'm wrenching on some old hot rod, the old "work it back & forth to loosen it" method is KING. As a mechanic, wiggling something loose is, well, second nature as you said!
This particular kayfun 5 likes to think otherwise.
Not a good sign. Wonder if finding another oring (from somewhere other than Svoemesto) is worth a try.

Anyone else using the MTL kit finding that they are getting dry hits? I've never got dry hits in a Kayfun before (unless obviously setting the wattage too high), but with the MTL adapter installed (have change to the 'middle' one), try as I might I keep getting dry hits!! Have rewicked now so many times and have tried both cottons and rayon- only thing I can think of is that because the kit reduces the airflow it messes up the wicking by reducing the vacuum effect. In contrast, the Kayfun mini 3 being designed in the first place for a more restricted airflow and the vacuum designed accordingly... Hope this is not the case though [emoji53][emoji53]


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Not good!
 

Bronze

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Have just tried using much less cotton than normal and it seems much better- will keep you updated!


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Please do. I know I trim a little off the sides of the wicks once I have them threaded through the coil and trimmed to length.
 
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rockstarr

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For what it's worth mine works perfectly and hits like a beast, running titanium @0.40 @35w 320f. Love this atty
 

KY_Rob

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View attachment 565551 For what it's worth mine works perfectly and hits like a beast, running titanium @0.40 @35w 320f. Love this atty

Mines been working like a champ since it was brought to my attention that I was overfilling it. No performance complaints running SS316L @ 0.56, 30w, 450°F :)

Never got the whole metal tank thing. There is no way to tell how much juice you have left. Looks awesome though.

I'm diggin the metal tank. I broke so many glass sections with the KF4 in long mode, it wasn't even funny. If I break the metal tank, I got bigger issues :D
 

rockstarr

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I break everything to, both of those mods and tanks have been dropped on concrete or tile floor multiple times and are completely unscathed... My km3 is sitting on the vape desk waiting for replacement tanks to arrive from CDV. It only fell over on a vapor shark DNA 40 sitting on a glass table.
 

Bhoot

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I break everything to, both of those mods and tanks have been dropped on concrete or tile floor multiple times and are completely unscathed... My km3 is sitting on the vape desk waiting for replacement tanks to arrive from CDV. It only fell over on a vapor shark DNA 40 sitting on a glass table.

Brittle things they are then. A metal sleeved glass chamber would be ideal. M


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rockstarr

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Brittle things they are then. A metal sleeved glass chamber would be ideal. M


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Ye, it was definatly a weak fall over. I'd prefer the glass but...and I am in temp control so no worries when I need a refill. I do prefer the heron for out and about anyways because there's no added weight to the mod.
 
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Mactavish

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Never got the whole metal tank thing. There is no way to tell how much juice you have left. Looks awesome though.


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One of the many pluses running TC. You know it's fill up time when the vapor gets weak, NO dry hits! And if you vape it really low, the wick gets clean enough for me to try a different flavor without the bother of re-wicking.
 

qorax

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Never got the whole metal tank thing. There is no way to tell how much juice you have left. Looks awesome though.

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It's pretty visible after removing the topcap with KM3 and K5. And b'coz of the JC we've no worries of flooding as well. I'm loving the all metal mode here.
 

Sockeye404

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Anyone else using the MTL kit finding that they are getting dry hits?
...- only thing I can think of is that because the kit reduces the airflow it messes up the wicking by reducing the vacuum effect....

No dry hits for me.
And I would assume the kit increases the negative-pressure and the liquid flow should be better. Like in the times when you sometimes needed to close the airhole of the Kayfun 3 with a finger to get more liquid on the coil.
 
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Bhoot

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How do people do TC? I used velocity v2, aspire clieto steel coils, titanium wire. Used wismec rx200, dna200 and laisimo L1. Every single time. Constant temp protection kicking in on all of them. Only time I've seen it work is mtl. Which kind of defeats the purpose of most of my tanks and rda.


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magicmyst

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That's what I always try to do, but I end up having to get a damn near death grip on the thing to get the juice control moving.

There's something about the way the chimney is so tight on the KF5, that it won't spin smoothly, and has caused the entire device to start threading off my P3.
That is indeed weird. My K5 is on a ProVari and I always grasp the base before opening the JFC on device. Mine is not loosey-goosey, but still turns smoothly and easily. In fact, once I get it started turning, I actually turn the ProVari while holding the K5 stationary- I count the turns by the revolutions of the firing button!
 

Mactavish

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How do people do TC? I used velocity v2, aspire clieto steel coils, titanium wire. Used wismec rx200, dna200 and laisimo L1. Every single time. Constant temp protection kicking in on all of them. Only time I've seen it work is mtl. Which kind of defeats the purpose of most of my tanks and rda.


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Not really sure of the question. The temp protect message is just telling the user that the mod has reached the temp you have selected, and at that point the computer chip throttles the wattage to the coil to maintain that temp throughout the rest of the pull. If you have your mod screen setup right, you can vape while looking in a mirror and watch the watts go down as you pull.

When I started TC vaping, I wondered the same thing, till it was explained properly. I even joined the Evolv forum to ask the same question, I can find the link for you if you wish.

You say you own a DNA200, the latest versions of the firmware, and Escribe software, now allow the user to turn the TP message OFF, as it confuses many, and I see it still does. I think they should have come up with a different wording, as it's not a warning, but just telling you it's working properly.

Now I will say, that on some other brand boards, it's not as seamless. I just bought a cheap Knight V1 mod, on a lark. The chipset is not known, and the TC is not very good. When that mod hits "temp protect", it simply cuts off ALL WATTAGE, to the coil, and NO vapor. I was only able to somewhat overcome it by increasing the temp, but then the vapor was too HOT. This kind of thing can turn people off to TC vaping. I mostly stick to buying mods from Joyetech/Eleaf/Wismec, as those chips do TC well, and my gold standard is my VaporShark DNA200. And other then my last purchase, I AVOID any new mods that are not FIRMWARE UPGRADABLE. Good luck!
 

magicmyst

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Anyone else using the MTL kit finding that they are getting dry hits?
Those dry/burnt hits can be tricky to diagnose sometimes. I used to get them on my KFL when using a shorter contact coil. When I finally went to an 11 wrap, 1.6Ω coil no more dry hits. I'm not using the MTL kit, but I was getting dry/burn hits, preceded by the extended sizzle yesterday. I was also getting some seepage from the AF channels and suspected my wicking in the juice wells might be a little sparse, so I rewicked with more cotton in the wells, yet still not stuffed, and the extended sizzle/dry-burnt hits have not recurred.
 

ufaiq

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How do people do TC? I used velocity v2, aspire clieto steel coils, titanium wire. Used wismec rx200, dna200 and laisimo L1. Every single time. Constant temp protection kicking in on all of them. Only time I've seen it work is mtl. Which kind of defeats the purpose of most of my tanks and rda.


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A lot will disagree with my selection but I find that to do TC without a hitch is go nickel wires. From what I gathered, wire coefficient is important for a good TC. The curve for SS in my opinion is really low gradient compare to nickel. Hope this input helps, happy vaping.


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