You spaced it? Any difference? Cause before you said you had a full contact coilNew coil (10/9 wraps)
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Authentic Svoemesto Kayfun Prime
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I really do like all 3. Don't think the width is a ton different. But, @HBcorpse , if it'll help, I'll take a pic of them. Let me know.
On a different subject: the Jac above has a P3 Kabuki with a P3 to 510 adaptor on it. Just yesterday, after replacing the coil, it registers OP. I moved the adaptor onto a diff mod, and no good. I moved another atty onto the Jac without the adaptor and it's good. How can the adaptor go bad? I emailed HOH, after they went home for the night. But, thought I'd ask here.
I knew there'd be a bigger difference in size vs the Radius, but I'm more interested in size difference between the JAC and the ZNA. More pics would be awesome! Thanks!
I have found that if I install the adapter first, and then the coil, it seems to make better contact.
Could try the other way, with coil going in, and then the adapter...
Got any pics of a your Kayfun Prime on the JAC?
Yeah 2.5mm is definitely way better than 3.0. Got some 32g NiFe52 that's been lying around, so I did up a 9 wrap very slightly spaced 2.5, and properly stuffed it with rayon. Coil about 1 mm above the air hole
(HHV....Serendipity is always the go to when an exiting situation like this arises...
)
This is truelly the best vape I had from it so far. Much less popping and even better flavour...one full turn and it sent the bubbles...that means easier wicking to.
Like that Englishman says...Its a bloody good vapin
(HHV....Serendipity is always the go to when an exiting situation like this arises...
) This is truelly the best vape I had from it so far. Much less popping and even better flavour...one full turn and it sent the bubbles...that means easier wicking to.
Like that Englishman says...Its a bloody good vapin
Thanks for the reply AstroTurf.
Just to confirm, You have an authentic KFP and it is not air tight when air flow ring is down while blocking the air slot?
Air seems to be entering from here?
Fixed it...
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LOL easy...
Because, if when you cover the air inlet, you have air movement... It's coming in at the seam.
The vape band placement has corrected this.
A design flaw, or weak link in the Prime's design, experienced no more by me.
Jim
I don't think it happens like that, I just think the air is pulling from the seem just above the hole. You cannot really block the airhole with your finger because it's recessed. I would think if you took off the base and ring, and we're able to tape off the hole then reassemble, no air would be coming in...I turned the AF ring to a position between air holes and no air was moving, it was sealed. So what I think is happening is when a hole is set to a liking, air is obviously coming in directly, but also comes in just above it from that seam and if so, it's just being split up some.
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Yes I haven't tried the band, but I do know that if the airhole is blocked by the AF ring, it is sealed
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Dependant upon the machining tolerance of the parts associated with that function...
I covered the hole with a band and the air is there, but restricted. It definitely comes from the seam yes. I would like to think its compensated for in the design.
I imagine it won't be easy sealing air with metal on metal parts. If you want an air tight seal you need to add an o-ring.
There should have been a groove in the airflow ring for an o-ring to seal with the lower part of the chimney while trying to get the tolerances as close as possible to prevent air from entering other air holes in the base through the outer part of the airflow ring. It's hard describing it so here is a photo:
Green arrow is the place where I think there should have been an o-ring. Red arrows where I think air might still be entering after sealing the seam.
I agree with AstroTurf that it's a slight design flaw. Sealing that seam helps.
But in all honesty, After trying to seal that seam with Thread seal tape "plumbers tape" and with a vape band, I'm noticing very slight difference at the first air hole between sealed and not sealed, which maybe because air is still entering the other air holes through the air opening shown as red arrows.
The good thing is that I'm satisfied with the first air hole airflow, it's tight enough for me, wish it was a little bit tighter though.
There should have been a groove in the airflow ring for an o-ring to seal with the lower part of the chimney while trying to get the tolerances as close as possible to prevent air from entering other air holes in the base through the outer part of the airflow ring. It's hard describing it so here is a photo:
Green arrow is the place where I think there should have been an o-ring. Red arrows where I think air might still be entering after sealing the seam.
I agree with AstroTurf that it's a slight design flaw. Sealing that seam helps.
But in all honesty, After trying to seal that seam with Thread seal tape "plumbers tape" and with a vape band, I'm noticing very slight difference at the first air hole between sealed and not sealed, which maybe because air is still entering the other air holes through the air opening shown as red arrows.
The good thing is that I'm satisfied with the first air hole airflow, it's tight enough for me, wish it was a little bit tighter though.
Honestly there shouldn't be any difference like you said, and personally I don't think it's a design flaw...I'm not sure, but I think some are saying air is coming into the seam and allowing said air to come in on every other af hole a little, besides the set af hole? I don't think any air is coming in except the hole it's set to. Yes air is coming into that seem just where you showed, just above the hole that is set, but closing off that seem shouldn't reduce the total airflow . Let's say 20 percent is coming into the seem and 80 percent the main hole, if you seal up the seam, then 100 percent comes in the main hole.....maybe it seems like airflow is being reduced by a band, but it probably just feels that way . I base this on , I took out bottom plate and turned af disc so it falls in between air holes, thus not exposing any holes, and it's air tight in my prime, meaning no air is coming in from the seams. I'm simply curious on this, as it doesn't affect my vape, and I find it interesting and hope nobody thinks I'm being argumentiveI imagine it won't be easy sealing air with metal on metal parts. If you want an air tight seal you need to add an o-ring.
There should have been a groove in the airflow ring for an o-ring to seal with the lower part of the chimney while trying to get the tolerances as close as possible to prevent air from entering other air holes in the base through the outer part of the airflow ring. It's hard describing it so here is a photo:
Green arrow is the place where I think there should have been an o-ring. Red arrows where I think air might still be entering after sealing the seam.
I agree with AstroTurf that it's a slight design flaw. Sealing that seam helps.
But in all honesty, After trying to seal that seam with Thread seal tape "plumbers tape" and with a vape band, I'm noticing very slight difference at the first air hole between sealed and not sealed, which maybe because air is still entering the other air holes through the air opening shown as red arrows.
The good thing is that I'm satisfied with the first air hole airflow, it's tight enough for me, wish it was a little bit tighter though.
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[emoji16]Nope. But start hurling names at us and it's game on!
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Oh, and by the way...
I HATE Vape Bands!!!
I HATE Vape Bands!!!
Not at all.
Am I correct in assuming that you like a slightly looser draw vapdivrr?
Myself I like a more tighter MTL draw. I use the 2nd or 3rd air hole in the berserker if you have one for comparison.
The second air hole in the berserker is 1 mm, which translates to the first hole in the Prime which is also 1mm. And I have to say that the 1mm opening in the berserker it is a little bit tighter than the Prime. I know air velocity and chamber size contribute to the tightness of the draw, but I find that it's still a little tighter.
Now if you unscrew bottom 510 screw, remove the airflow ring with that hexagon part, then remove the last o-ring of the base, clean both the airflow ring from the inside and lower part of the base, put the airflow ring back on and try blowing air in, you will find that some air is still entering.
I think that Sovemesto thought "and correctly for that matter" is that liquid condensation and e-liquid seals that gap. And it does, if during the same experiment above you add some thick VG between the airflow ring and base it nearly makes it air tight.
I do like the prime a bit more open, for I do vape it all the way open most of the time.....you know before this interesting subject came up, I was thinking how it was possible for air not to enter from other holes , but didn't ponder to long, so when this came up, I was even more curious. ...I know what you mean on af setting for different tanks, as I own a bunch, and they all seem different, although size wise, they measure the same.....so depending on juice thickness and possibly how much juice is on orings, we are getting different results? I can see that....yes when I turned af disc to block off holes, the orings were definitely juiced
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I hate them too! My brother got one a few years ago and I remember saying to him then that it was the most ridiculous thing I'd ever seen. An absolute eyesore.
My view then still stands and has not changed. Each to their own like everything else, but I find them the ugliest looking things.
Hate when you see a lovely high end tank and it is covered in coloured bands. Hiding the beauty of the tank and my OCD could ever cope that they ruin the diameter of the tank and overhang!!!
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