Authentic Svoemesto Kayfun Prime
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Note at the 12:50 mark Phil points out the new style top cap that allows you to fill your Prime all the way to the top.
I have looked at the top cap many times and kind of didn't realize that extra groove. Now really looking at it, maybe that's why it seems lighter and not as sturdy as the k5 , as some have noted in previous posts....
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Yes its not crunchy and definitely smooth, but like you said, sometimes spongy because of that oring. You kind of have to press it down more centered because that oring floats the cap a little
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Nice video, I enjoyed your retrospective, your thoughts are similar to my own, and I guess anybody who has been through the whole evolution of tanks would agree; the Kayfun was one of the most significant game changers in vaping
I personally don't do super high wattage, and usually idle out between 10-20watts, but I like DL a lot more than MTL. Having said that the Prime wide open on 6 dots is okay as a R-DL device (for me anyway). On the K3 mini I just take the airflow screws out altogether and vape it wide open, but for anybody who loves the Lite+ or 3.1 experience, I can't imagine you'd have anything to complain about, here ya go, super-restricted sucking golfballs through a straw airflow is alive and well ;-)
For me, the Hussar is still the best flavor atty in existence and I like the more open airflow on it. Having said that I find their tanks extremely fiddly and their customer service virtually nonexistent, which is not okay for a tank that costs nearly twice as much as the Prime.
I like the Hussars a lot Picture of Your Setup Part 3! but having said that, they are one of the most problematic tanks that I own which have a tendency to work great for a few months and then start leaking out of the airflow holes like crazy. Based upon the feedback in the High End Atomizers thread here, my experience is far from unique.
Ya, I prefer the K5 solid top as well, but probably it's just something I'm very used to. Cutting those additional spaces in the top doesn't exactly save them any money, it's only adding time on the CNC machine to make it; I'm guessing it was done for weight or possibly to prevent e-liquid from seeping out of the top if you overfill it. SM seems to have picked the best of what they had working for them and them refined it further, which is almost always what they do.
You're looking a lot more closely than I am ;-) Just looks n feels like a Kayfun to me, have had no problems or complaints with it for the most part.
Using temp control on the Prime with SS316L, same as I use on the K5; no problems beyond an initial one where the tank was wobbly and the Ω kept jumping around - had to tighten the bottom screw. I, personally, have never gotten temp control to work reliably on the mini V3 (at least not with SS316L), but probably that's just me and I gave up on it/lost interest since I have so many other tanks that work flawlessly (like the K5 fer instance), and tend to use the mini V3s with ProVari gear or old-skool mech mods which are 19mm and sit flush with it What ya sportin today ?.
Cheers
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All well said my friendNice video, I enjoyed your retrospective, your thoughts are similar to my own, and I guess anybody who has been through the whole evolution of tanks would agree; the Kayfun was one of the most significant game changers in vaping
I personally don't do super high wattage, and usually idle out between 10-20watts, but I like DL a lot more than MTL. Having said that the Prime wide open on 6 dots is okay as a R-DL device (for me anyway). On the K3 mini I just take the airflow screws out altogether and vape it wide open, but for anybody who loves the Lite+ or 3.1 experience, I can't imagine you'd have anything to complain about, here ya go, super-restricted sucking golfballs through a straw airflow is alive and well ;-)
For me, the Hussar is still the best flavor atty in existence and I like the more open airflow on it. Having said that I find their tanks extremely fiddly and their customer service virtually nonexistent, which is not okay for a tank that costs nearly twice as much as the Prime.
I like the Hussars a lot Picture of Your Setup Part 3! but having said that, they are one of the most problematic tanks that I own which have a tendency to work great for a few months and then start leaking out of the airflow holes like crazy. Based upon the feedback in the High End Atomizers thread here, my experience is far from unique.
Ya, I prefer the K5 solid top as well, but probably it's just something I'm very used to. Cutting those additional spaces in the top doesn't exactly save them any money, it's only adding time on the CNC machine to make it; I'm guessing it was done for weight or possibly to prevent e-liquid from seeping out of the top if you overfill it. SM seems to have picked the best of what they had working for them and them refined it further, which is almost always what they do.
You're looking a lot more closely than I am ;-) Just looks n feels like a Kayfun to me, have had no problems or complaints with it for the most part.
Using temp control on the Prime with SS316L, same as I use on the K5; no problems beyond an initial one where the tank was wobbly and the Ω kept jumping around - had to tighten the bottom screw. I, personally, have never gotten temp control to work reliably on the mini V3 (at least not with SS316L), but probably that's just me and I gave up on it/lost interest since I have so many other tanks that work flawlessly (like the K5 fer instance), and tend to use the mini V3s with ProVari gear or old-skool mech mods which are 19mm and sit flush with it What ya sportin today ?.
Cheers
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I've noticed some leaking out of the bottom of my Prime. No issues for the first week or so. It's not coming from the airflow holes, but appears to be on the bottom where the 510 is. I've removed the 510 screw, and the bottom piece saw some juice in there. Cleaned that up. Any suggestions? Is my wicking bad? Too many turns on the juice flow control? I've had it from 1 1/2 turns down to 1 1/4 turns, but it's still happening. Vaping 70% vg juice.
More often than not it is condensation.
Yes perhaps tighten that underneath part, under the 510 plate. It's like a 1/4 inch hex nut with an oring . This is part of the air tube which sits under coil and also holds the deck down. If it is loose you will get juice running down from under the deck around the insulator. Besides just normal juice from coil sitting on deck, you can also be getting more juice into deck area from a coil that's to short, sometimes if your wick shoulders are fluffed and are to close to deck wall, they can be dripping over and pooling on deck. Just don't over tighten that bolt, it should be snug. And if anything, about wick amounts, I would tend to think you would have to less than to much, especially in the channels
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Just to add, I believe more cotton is better as it relates to the portion that is inside or next to the coil. But then trim down the tails and when building be sure to put a shoulder on the wick so as to keep it to the outside as much as possible (and away from the interior of the deck block). This was most certainly true with the K5 and just may be an improved method for the other Kayfuns as well.
Yepper......sometimes I get that slight wetness in the km3, and sometimes not. It's hard to know precisely but it seems to be either not quit enough wicking material in the channels or not enough shoulder, where like you said, it's to close to the wall of the deck......
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What is the view on spaced coils with 28 guage kanthal? That's the only wire I use and I just seem to notice that everyone seems to be doing spaced now? Is there and advantage other than not having to pulse the coil to rid it of hot spots? I'm thinking there wouldn't be much space in the Prime deck for a spaced coil. I like my resistance in and around 1.3/1.4 ohms.
I'm usuing a 7 wrap, 26ga, SS, spaced coil on my Prime and it fits fine. I cant comment on it being better than a non spaced because I havent tried it yet.
The Taifun GT3 with the steam tuners nano kit would look dope on top that I think
I've always done contact coils so was just curious I suppose. Seems like every video or pic of a build nowadays does spaced coils. I don't and have never used temperature control so maybe that's why I never got into that.
Can you still dry burn a spaced kanthal coil like you would do with a tight contact coil? I can make my contact coils last for months by running them under a tap and scraping the gunk off them.
I always used spaced coils as well...something about better juice delivery across the coil...
Something about a contact coil always made me picture a hot little metal tunnel where the juice never quite makes it to the cotton in the center and so the center of the wick burns.
But then I discovered twisted coils, and I just press those together because they still have little gaps in between the wraps...
Something about a contact coil always made me picture a hot little metal tunnel where the juice never quite makes it to the cotton in the center and so the center of the wick burns.
But then I discovered twisted coils, and I just press those together because they still have little gaps in between the wraps...
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