Bulli Smoker A2 – DIY Atomiser, similar to the Nhaler Ato-miser

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weaponX

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Picking up my A2 atty from the post office in a few minutes!!! Jolly, thanks for posting your update. I am seriously excited about getting this thing on my SP2. Did yours come in the SS as you requested? I have the standard coming. I saw in another area Drew made a comment about the aluminum being toxic under high temps if it isn't treated. I hope he is just trying to promote his own product, and isn't right about the aluminum A2. Any thoughts, guys?


aluminum is toxic...mainly aluminum foil and a burning temp...but it is also in everything:

[FONT=Verdana, Arial]Microwave popcorn
Salted snacks
Hot cocoa mixes
Coffee creamers
Pickles and relish
Flour tortillas
Pizza crust
Muffins
Doughnuts
Cookies
Pancakes
Waffles
Cupcakes
Cakes
Baking mixes
Brownies
Pastries
Corn bread
Banana bread
Carrot bread
Dipping batter for fried foods
[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial]Anti-perspirants
Many body lotions and cremes
Most cosmetics
Shampoos and conditioners
Soaps
Suntan lotions
Lip Balm
[/FONT]

I believe that the concern is relevant...but I also do not trust plastics under heat either. Just how your not supposed to put tupperware in the microwave. It almost seems like our society is becoming over sensitive to what is bad for us.

What do you think the casings of most attys/cartomisers are made out of? We are not burning or microwaving things...were at a much lower and trustable temperature.

I ordered 3 sets of carts from n haler and will never buy anything from the again. They were just the crap from shenzen marked up. Something rubs me the wrong way about them.

If you notice the A2 and the Ato Miser are in the same price range (give or take) and n haler throws in a bunch of nick-nacks that are really not needed to make it "worth it". Plus Ive read the wire is mis-shapen and kinked (probably from china). I think they are just intimidated due to the fact that it is an inferior product. The plastic really turns me off. Plus the shape is just dumb. They copied the idea and are trying to make it seem safer or better. My guess the mouthpiece is made in china too and probably has led in it. I think i'll stick with the a2.
 

JollyRogers

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Hey Jolly - You said it is not working on your Riva? Just check to make sure that it isn't the centre connector I mentioned. It does seem to move around a bit and you might need to pull it back down if it has gone inside a bit too far.

I will hopefully be posting tomorrow, some more problems I have found and fixes for those problems. I also received the eGo cone that Cetin is now selling this morning, so hopefully will get some pics of that up also. Still going strong here though, working fine - does anyone have any idea what the filler material is that is provided from Cetin? I have tried a few materials and none of them seem to work as good as the original stuff supplied.

I think I am using the same Kanthal as you now Jolly, I too ordered some from eBay - the seller is jrider12? Works very good, it does seem slightly different from the stuff that Cetin provides, but it is very marginal and I cannot notice any difference when vaping.

Thanks Pheary (btw, why the new nick?), I had forgotten about that. Adjustment made and it is working like a champ on my Rivas. My cut down cone is working nicely also. I am real curious about the cone/adapter from Cetin.

That is the same seller on eBay that I got mine from. 75ft of Kanthal 32 gauge for $4 US. It is thicker then what Cetin uses, hence the lower resistance. I have a bunch of wick and kanthal from Cetin also. As far as material for the cart, it looks a lot like fluval. I am not ready to replace mine, but I have some fluval and will wash it real good and try it.

As far as what Nhaler sells, I have one. The base is actually nicely done, but the cone cover - drip top is weird. As far as the nick nack stuff he provides, the scissors, tweezers, screw driver, etc, it's cheap junk. The nichrome wire Nhaler provided would break at a seem where it went from thick to thin. He posted to pm him and he would send more. I pm'd him and he didn't even respond, let alone send me replacement nichrome. Little stuff like that and I just won't order from them again either. All based on principal. As far as the A2, heck I want another!!! It was very easy for me to rebuild the winding this morning, and that was without my glasses.
 

weaponX

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Don't understand the burning point myself. Nothing is burning on mine?

Surely if it was burning the metal you would taste it?

Oh well, can't see what I'm inhaling being any worse than a cigarette.


its not "burning" per-say...more or less the effect the heat has on the material. All materials release
chemicals at different temperatures.

edit*

Pheary: Great review btw
 
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Pheary

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Well, I have no idea what temperature aluminium starts degrading at, but this atomiser is one the coolest I have used. Some I have used (510LRs) can get so hot I can barely touch them (100c-ish?) this one is a lot less than that, I would say about 50c. It feels warm but not so hot that I have to stop touching it like I would with an LR.
 

JollyRogers

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I vaped the 1.5Ω all yesterday, and noticed it was killing flavor, and giving me a sore throat. That was with my ProVari dialed down to 3.3v or on an eGo (that is regulated to 3.4). It took me 2 more tries this morning, but I finally got a 2.4Ω winding :) I used the kanthal from Cetin, which I actually now believe is the same as what I got from the ebay seller in the USA (32 gauge). I did 6 winds and secured every thing. The key is after securing to screws, I used the nail to make sure all the coils where not touching each other and also not touching the screws, except where it the last winding went to the screw for attachment. Measured it then clipped. All is good. I have noticed the air hole lines up off center from the winding, more towards one of the screws, but it doesn't seem to make a diff.
 

Pheary

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Windings:

1-2-3-check.jpg


1 and 2: I have found some common issues you may have when winding. The circles marked 1 and 2 should be as in the picture, maybe not as much of a gap as it shown, but a gap nevertheless. It is very easy to have the coil very close to the screws which can cause problems. Usually happens when you are screwing down the winding, as you tug the wire down it moves the coils closer to the screws than it should be. Watch out for this and ensure there is a gap, you don't want any part of the coil touching the screws, the bottom of the atty or the sides once you have the tube on.

3: This is where you cut off the excess, try to get it as close as possible and always watch out for it sticking out, try to have the cut off bits on the opposite side of the coil. If you cut off the excess on the same side as the coil it is possible to create a false connection on the coil which can be quite a strange experience :laugh:

Airhole continued: As mentioned in my first post, it seems to work better when the airhole is on the opposite side to the coil. I have also found it works good when at the side of the coil, but not so well when the airhole is right next to the coil. It doesn't work very well at all if the airhole is lining up with the screws. It is very easy to work out if your airhole is lining up right, just stick a needle into the hole and then look down the tube and see if anything is interrupting its path. You want it ideally to not be right next to the coil, but with a clear path to it.

Now the issue is, my airhole has moved around over the past few week. Not sure how, I guess with screwing it on and off, over and over, it has wore down the metal a bit and the airhole kept creeping slowly around. Anyway, it soon went right beside one of the screws, another strange experience, it really does affect the airflow in a bad way. I knew obviously something wasn't right although I was slightly baffled as to how to fix it because I couldn't unscrew it as it would become loose and I couldn't over-tighten as it was already solid.

I took a file to it, couple of runs over the bottom and I managed to remove enough of the metal so the airhole moved a little further around away from the screw. It is working fine again now, simple fix although quite a strange problem which I guess would only arise after constant use. It is pretty much glued to my hand though and has been for weeks :blush: - I need to vape less :vapor:

Here are the pictures (as promised) of the A2 eGo cone I ordered from Cetin.

egoa2conefull.jpg


a2conesolo.jpg


Works fine and it looks a lot better now, I am still a happy chappie :toast:

Hopefully Cetin will do a revision 2 of his device and some of the problems I have found can be removed completely. If the air hole wasn't located on the tube, and it couldn't change its location, the device would be, in my opinion, a lot more consistent. Not saying it isn't consistent now, but over time if you forget to watch where the air hole is you can have problems. If it was a static hole though, obviously it eliminates these issues altogether.

The winding Cetin did on ours is 3.5. Not much vapor on the SP2. We will make a lower one today and try again.

Hi Firechick

I often wind my own that are a little too high, it is possible to unscrew just one of the screws, unravel one winding and then re-screw it under and then cut off the excess. This should make the ohm drop by a fair bit and it is pretty easy to do.
 
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Pheary

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I am not sure how long everyone has had theirs for now but I am really interested in how long peoples windings are lasting for. I am not quite sure how long I have gone for without changing (I am on 5 days now), more often than not I change it because I want to try a new juice flavour and not because it needs switching.

I think the longest I have had one atomiser last for is about 3-4 weeks of heavy use. So, fingers crossed, if I can make one winding last for a month.. then I could potentially have enough wick and wire to last me until I die :laugh:

I just need to stock up on eGo batteries and juice now :blush:
 

JollyRogers

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I believe it is 32gauge wire.

I used one winding for 5 days. As far as changing flavors, I can rinse the wick, blot dry with a paper towel, dry burn the coil and it is like new (as long as I didn't break the wicking). Use a clean cart and change flavors.

I just wrapped a winding last night @2.2Ω and it is perfect on my eGo/Rivas and on my ProVari. Will try to leave it alone for a while and see, but I expect that they will have to be cleaned every week, or changed? Depending on performance.
 
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