lol i never tried a lr carto but my lr atties were always 4.2-4.3 area it just seems so perfect and u can just have a 2 second puff like you could on an analog i love it , i really need a vv mod again and for the price i think this one would be great for me , id still use my reo most of the time but its nice to have some range and set to your perfect number , its like a sleep number bed
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Wouldn't a 1.5ohm at 4.2V trigger the protection circuit? You'd be putting out 2.8 amps which is more than the 2.5 the switch is rated for - you would either need to set the voltage at 3.7 or get a 1.7ohm atty...
Yes 1.5 ohms would be triggered at 3.5 volts but since my boge carto is 2 ohms it will be higher, I don't even like to use them since they are Low Res but honestly dripping with my LavaTube is not preferred now that I have tried it. I had juice leak down the side of my device without me knowing it today and some juice got into the button. It still fires flawlessly thank god but I hope it doesn't cause an issue in the future. I fully intend to buy some 2.8 ohm cartos very soon from ElectroVapors
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I'm always afraid of that happening too, and I've been procrastinating on getting a drip shield...Hmm maybe I'll throw some "bonuts" in there in the meantime, still got some pipe filters..
To anyone that's confused about the cutoff safety, or has no idea what all these values mean, or doesn't feel the need to become an electrician just to vape with a variable voltage device, here's something that'll make it nice and easy:
Electricity calculator
Here's how it works. You only need to put in 2 values. Volts is what you set the Lavatube to with the buttons. All you need to know about Amps is that the Lavatube's cutoff switch is 2.5 amps before the safety kicks in. (this is according to this thread. I did not test this myself). Resistance depends on your atty or carto and wattage is the end result.
So, first value you have input is the resistance of your atty or carto. Then you have to put in the volts you wanna try it at. Then you hit calculate. If the result in the Amp box is 2.5 or more, your Lavatube will still fire, but it won't be at the volts you set it to. If Amps are below 2.5, you're good to go and can probably increase if you want to, as long as you don't go over 2.5 amps with the higher volts setting.
Quick pre-done math. With a 1.5ohm atty/carto, you can only go up to 3.7 volts (technically 3.75 but there's no such setting on the Lavatube). With a 2.0ohm atty/carto, 5 volts is the max. With 2.5ohm, 6 volts comes in at 2.4 amps. Just under the 2.5 limit. So in other words, perfect.
When you find your sweet spot, run your numbers through the calculator and write down the wattage. After you have the wattage, even if you change your atty or carto to something else that has different resistance, you just have to put the resistance value and the wattage value and hit calculate. The volts box will be what you need to set the Lavatube to in order to get the same vape experience as you did with your old atty or carto. Again, assuming the amps box is below 2.5amps.
Hope that helps.
Electricity calculator
Here's how it works. You only need to put in 2 values. Volts is what you set the Lavatube to with the buttons. All you need to know about Amps is that the Lavatube's cutoff switch is 2.5 amps before the safety kicks in. (this is according to this thread. I did not test this myself). Resistance depends on your atty or carto and wattage is the end result.
So, first value you have input is the resistance of your atty or carto. Then you have to put in the volts you wanna try it at. Then you hit calculate. If the result in the Amp box is 2.5 or more, your Lavatube will still fire, but it won't be at the volts you set it to. If Amps are below 2.5, you're good to go and can probably increase if you want to, as long as you don't go over 2.5 amps with the higher volts setting.
Quick pre-done math. With a 1.5ohm atty/carto, you can only go up to 3.7 volts (technically 3.75 but there's no such setting on the Lavatube). With a 2.0ohm atty/carto, 5 volts is the max. With 2.5ohm, 6 volts comes in at 2.4 amps. Just under the 2.5 limit. So in other words, perfect.
When you find your sweet spot, run your numbers through the calculator and write down the wattage. After you have the wattage, even if you change your atty or carto to something else that has different resistance, you just have to put the resistance value and the wattage value and hit calculate. The volts box will be what you need to set the Lavatube to in order to get the same vape experience as you did with your old atty or carto. Again, assuming the amps box is below 2.5amps.
Hope that helps.
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I made some colour coded chats outlining the cutoff voltage and wattage based on the atty / carto resistance.
Hopefully someone else will find these helpful as a quick visual reference for this unit.
Hopefully someone else will find these helpful as a quick visual reference for this unit.
Good work. Like I said in my previous reply, it seems that to get the most out of the Lavatube, it's best to go with 2.5ohm and above.
Im posting this in all the lavatube threads,so if houve read it,move on to the next post:
This is MY opinion.....
I just received my lavatube today....first I thought as i took it out of the oackaging,wow this is pretty nice.
Then as I was inserting the battery,the plastic battery cap came RIGHT OFF the aluminum bottom piece that holds the spring.
My second thought...you get what you pay for,you can tell its a mass produced chinese mod...but with some superglue,i reattached the plastic bottom to the aluminum spring housing.
Ok then I tried to see if an AW 18650 battery would fit...neither the button topped one would fit,neither would the flat top AW 2900Mah...it would fit either battery...so I just slipped a black oring over the bottom cap to act as a spacer,and both AW 18650 batts then fit...and you cant even see the oring cuz everythings black.(I opted to use the 2900mah flat top for longer life)
Theni I threw on a jtank with a boge SR 3ohm carto...and started vaping away....except for the loose jiggly voltage control buttons,it seems like a pretty solid build.
I have to say that I REALLY like it,and its WAY lighter than the Provari...but its pretty long,with either an atty,carto,or tank,becuz it houses an 18650 battery.
If they were gonna copy the provari...they should of done the same bottom cap design...that if you want to use a bigger battery,you buy an extension battery cap(it woulda been more revenue for the company too by having an accessory to sell).
I prefer using my chrome provari in it 18500 mode cuz it shortens the overall length once youve put on a tank or whatever yer gonna use.
Ok now the provari...its DEFINITELY a better made PV...once you hold it in yer hand,youll feel the difference RIGHT AWAY.
Its made from SS instead of thinner Aluminum,so its gonna last ALOT longer most likely....BUT,because it SS it alot heavier,so it may not be the most pocket friendly PV....but the Lavatube tho being much lighter,its longer,so it may not be the BEST either...so both have their drawbacks to being a all day pocket carrying device...but thats personal preferance.
So all in all,the Lavatube IS worth the money...you cant beat $63 shipped for a VV tube mod,and under $90 shipped for the whole it(battery,atty,charger,case)
BUT,if you only want to buy ONE,the old saying rings true...."buy the best that you afford right from the start" cuz when you buy cheap,itll just end up making you want more...and even tho the provari makes you cycle thru the menu(which becomes second nature within yer first few uses),it offers more functions that the Lavatube doesnt...and the Provaris fit and finish is WAY better(like they say,and I said b4,you get what you pay for).
So,if you can afford it,I say stick with the tried and true provari(the lavatube is still too new to know its durability...if its like every other china cheapy,im sure itll break eventually,like a wires solder point breaking,or something similar).
Ya cant go wrong with the provari cuz you have any problems with it,you have somewhere to call,you can just send it in for repairs,I serioiusy doubt the lavatube would be worth fixing if it broke...its kinda along the mentality of,what do you do with yer 510/901/801/ego batts when they stop working? Ya toss em....thats pretty much how i feel about the lavatube(and im sure the manufacturers think that too,thats why itso pricing is right along the line of an ego kit,maybe a LIL more,but PRETTY much in the same price range)
I saw what the lavatubes sell for in bulk,about $35,so im sure you can get the idea of what the internals look like,and how sturdy theyre put together.
I WILL be keeping my lavatube,even tho I own a provari....cuz if I left the house,and I wanted a VV tube mod,id grab the lavatube without thinking twice about it cuz it was so.cheap,i could care less if I drop it or if it gets a lil beat up(or worse,I lost it or somebody stole it)..i would be ...... if anything happend to my provari.
So there it is...now the choice is up to you which one to buy.GLWP,youll be happy wither EITHER device...really.
This is MY opinion.....
I just received my lavatube today....first I thought as i took it out of the oackaging,wow this is pretty nice.
Then as I was inserting the battery,the plastic battery cap came RIGHT OFF the aluminum bottom piece that holds the spring.
My second thought...you get what you pay for,you can tell its a mass produced chinese mod...but with some superglue,i reattached the plastic bottom to the aluminum spring housing.
Ok then I tried to see if an AW 18650 battery would fit...neither the button topped one would fit,neither would the flat top AW 2900Mah...it would fit either battery...so I just slipped a black oring over the bottom cap to act as a spacer,and both AW 18650 batts then fit...and you cant even see the oring cuz everythings black.(I opted to use the 2900mah flat top for longer life)
Theni I threw on a jtank with a boge SR 3ohm carto...and started vaping away....except for the loose jiggly voltage control buttons,it seems like a pretty solid build.
I have to say that I REALLY like it,and its WAY lighter than the Provari...but its pretty long,with either an atty,carto,or tank,becuz it houses an 18650 battery.
If they were gonna copy the provari...they should of done the same bottom cap design...that if you want to use a bigger battery,you buy an extension battery cap(it woulda been more revenue for the company too by having an accessory to sell).
I prefer using my chrome provari in it 18500 mode cuz it shortens the overall length once youve put on a tank or whatever yer gonna use.
Ok now the provari...its DEFINITELY a better made PV...once you hold it in yer hand,youll feel the difference RIGHT AWAY.
Its made from SS instead of thinner Aluminum,so its gonna last ALOT longer most likely....BUT,because it SS it alot heavier,so it may not be the most pocket friendly PV....but the Lavatube tho being much lighter,its longer,so it may not be the BEST either...so both have their drawbacks to being a all day pocket carrying device...but thats personal preferance.
So all in all,the Lavatube IS worth the money...you cant beat $63 shipped for a VV tube mod,and under $90 shipped for the whole it(battery,atty,charger,case)
BUT,if you only want to buy ONE,the old saying rings true...."buy the best that you afford right from the start" cuz when you buy cheap,itll just end up making you want more...and even tho the provari makes you cycle thru the menu(which becomes second nature within yer first few uses),it offers more functions that the Lavatube doesnt...and the Provaris fit and finish is WAY better(like they say,and I said b4,you get what you pay for).
So,if you can afford it,I say stick with the tried and true provari(the lavatube is still too new to know its durability...if its like every other china cheapy,im sure itll break eventually,like a wires solder point breaking,or something similar).
Ya cant go wrong with the provari cuz you have any problems with it,you have somewhere to call,you can just send it in for repairs,I serioiusy doubt the lavatube would be worth fixing if it broke...its kinda along the mentality of,what do you do with yer 510/901/801/ego batts when they stop working? Ya toss em....thats pretty much how i feel about the lavatube(and im sure the manufacturers think that too,thats why itso pricing is right along the line of an ego kit,maybe a LIL more,but PRETTY much in the same price range)
I saw what the lavatubes sell for in bulk,about $35,so im sure you can get the idea of what the internals look like,and how sturdy theyre put together.
I WILL be keeping my lavatube,even tho I own a provari....cuz if I left the house,and I wanted a VV tube mod,id grab the lavatube without thinking twice about it cuz it was so.cheap,i could care less if I drop it or if it gets a lil beat up(or worse,I lost it or somebody stole it)..i would be ...... if anything happend to my provari.
So there it is...now the choice is up to you which one to buy.GLWP,youll be happy wither EITHER device...really.
Well it's been 2 months since I got this mod and it still works, looks and vapes exactly like the day I bought it. Overall I still recommend this device to any moderately experienced vaper who is interested in trying a VV device without forking out hundreds for it.
Pair a Standard Res Boge with your favorite juice and this bad boy at 4.8-5.2 volts and you're in vaping heaven! This device is perfect for my needs and I have had next to no issues with it
Pair a Standard Res Boge with your favorite juice and this bad boy at 4.8-5.2 volts and you're in vaping heaven! This device is perfect for my needs and I have had next to no issues with it
mines been working awsome as well, only one complaint the 510 conection was a bit loose, not to the point of falling out but it would wiggle if i hit it slightly and make the carto off center. a little krazy glue done the trick but should of been secure better from the factory. all in all a great device
I am very happy with my tube, it is all i use, i tried one of my old ego batts and it felt very strange in my hand haha. I am very happy with a smoktech DCT tank and some good juice all day long, i have dropped it pretty hard a few times and she is still going strong. All in all it is a great VV device for the money.
I did not know that either and was getting annoyed at my dogs laying on it and then going to vape it at 6v with a regular boge carto on it..just not that great! Works fantastic though with my 5.0 carto's. Locked and loaded!
Are the batteries for the LT the high drain type or protected? It looks like my knight rider may arrive tomorrow so I was wondering if I should bother taking a protected 3000mAh battery with me to put in it. I think it is coming with 1600 or 1700 mAh batteries.
Edit: Disregard, it had been a while since I read the OP, went back and read it again... question answered.
Edit: Disregard, it had been a while since I read the OP, went back and read it again... question answered.
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AW has a 2300 mAh 18650 battery (IMR) if extra mAhs are important. A protected battery would probably only work well if you vape around 3.7 volts or below anyway.
ahhh My Knight Rider started to act up today .. first it was miss firing a lot so I changed the atty thinking maybe there was a problem. That didn't help. So I thought maybe the center pin had dropped or was compressed so I pulled it up a bit, nope not that, still miss firing. then all of a sudden the screen light started to flash and the number started to change with each flash it did that 5-6 times and turned itself off. Turned it back on and all is well? Did it need a re-boot maybe?
You have to be careful with those extra mah batterys. Some mods will not work with them and/or compress the spring far to much effectively removing any protection they have
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