DUD builds
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Speaking of mistakes; I seem to have discovered that my current coil is in good shape thanks to another unknown mistake. It had been several minutes since I last fired the device with the DUD on it, and I just picked up to have a vape and got almost nothing. I popped the cap off, and the wick is pretty dry. It was then that I noticed that when I pressed the button the coils start firing up pretty evenly, so I think they're in good shape, but that won't do much good I suppose, because with the wicking problems I'm probably going to have do redo a bunch of things? Maybe?
I have 4 of these DUD's coming, but it will be a while before I get to play with them.
On my regular DID I use 400 mesh and it wicks great. 500 is supposed to be even better, but I have a bunch of 400 to use up before I buy any 500.
I also roll the mesh for my wick as solidly as I can instead of using a paper clip in the center. I just cut the mesh to size, fold both long edges over approx. 2mm, oxidize the mesh thoroughly, then roll it up. Once rolled, I douse with e-juice and (carefully) light it with a lighter a few times, install it into the atty and build my coil.
I'm using 30 gauge kanthal because it is easier to work with than 32. It doesn't kink up as easily.
Also, whatever gauge you use, make sure you run a lighter down the length of the kanthal/nichrome twice till it glows red each time, as this will get rid of the oil/grease that is on the wire from drawing it down to it's gauge during the manufacturing process. If you don't it will taste weird until that is burnt off, and it's probably better to just burn it off before making your coil than to inhale it later.
Another note, for anyone who can't get a coil to produce a warm enough vape, normally you would just remove a coil and try again. If your device can't run a 3 or 4 coil wrap or you are afraid to try it because the resistance is two low, try a braided or twisted coil wrap. Cut double the length of wire you would normally use and twist the wire, heat it with a lighter, then build a coil with it.
Also, as far as hot legs on the top coil wire, this happens with the regular DID's as well. You want the wick almost touching the center post with just a tiny space between the two, then really tighten down your center nut to tightly cinch the wire(Careful you don't break the center post or stip out the nut).
On my regular DID I use 400 mesh and it wicks great. 500 is supposed to be even better, but I have a bunch of 400 to use up before I buy any 500.
I also roll the mesh for my wick as solidly as I can instead of using a paper clip in the center. I just cut the mesh to size, fold both long edges over approx. 2mm, oxidize the mesh thoroughly, then roll it up. Once rolled, I douse with e-juice and (carefully) light it with a lighter a few times, install it into the atty and build my coil.
I'm using 30 gauge kanthal because it is easier to work with than 32. It doesn't kink up as easily.
Also, whatever gauge you use, make sure you run a lighter down the length of the kanthal/nichrome twice till it glows red each time, as this will get rid of the oil/grease that is on the wire from drawing it down to it's gauge during the manufacturing process. If you don't it will taste weird until that is burnt off, and it's probably better to just burn it off before making your coil than to inhale it later.
Another note, for anyone who can't get a coil to produce a warm enough vape, normally you would just remove a coil and try again. If your device can't run a 3 or 4 coil wrap or you are afraid to try it because the resistance is two low, try a braided or twisted coil wrap. Cut double the length of wire you would normally use and twist the wire, heat it with a lighter, then build a coil with it.
Also, as far as hot legs on the top coil wire, this happens with the regular DID's as well. You want the wick almost touching the center post with just a tiny space between the two, then really tighten down your center nut to tightly cinch the wire(Careful you don't break the center post or stip out the nut).
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Wow. So...feeling a bit sheepish right now. The wicking problem was caused by the wick not having anything to wick... So... I fixed that! I don't know how I went through 2.5ml in the amount of time I apparently did, but it was gone.
I'm still not sure everything is working quite right though. The vapor production doesn't really seem quite there, but maybe things will start coming around now that I've got the coil sorted as well as my "wicking problem."
I'm still not sure everything is working quite right though. The vapor production doesn't really seem quite there, but maybe things will start coming around now that I've got the coil sorted as well as my "wicking problem."
Wow that works doing the coil at twice the length does it give the higher resistance then never thought of doin that.
Nope, it actually drops the resistance.
So if you need 5-6 coils of a single wire, 2-3 of a double wire should be the same.
Thanks, Underwhelmed. That was a lot of useful info. I'll definitely have to try that braided wire thing some time. I'd like to have a higher resistance atomizer so I can more easily use it on PWM devices.
NP LucidAce, I was hoping it might help some folks out who haven't had a Genesis style atty before.
They are just pearls I gleaned from reading the DID thread incessantly while I was waiting for mine to arrive. I was able to build a fairly decent/vapable coil and wick the first time I set it up by reading what everyone else had tried and posted there.
They are just pearls I gleaned from reading the DID thread incessantly while I was waiting for mine to arrive. I was able to build a fairly decent/vapable coil and wick the first time I set it up by reading what everyone else had tried and posted there.
Ok, just realized I misunderstood the implications of the braided coil thing. It makes sense now that I hear you explain it since that's how circuits work, and it's something many of us are already familiar with thanks to dual coil cartomizers.
So, if I want a higher resistance coil I'd need to find a way to get even more coils on here than I already have or use an even thinner wire, but most people seem to prefer going to thicker wire like 28 and 26 awg. Is there any particular reason that many people using genesis atomizers seem to prefer really low resistance coils? Like, Rip Trippers says his sweet spot is like .7 ohms or something. I'm not sure I get why that's desirable since it's a lot easier to get higher voltage these days than it is to get really low voltage like I'd assume you'd need if the resistance of the atomizer was less than 1 ohm.
So, if I want a higher resistance coil I'd need to find a way to get even more coils on here than I already have or use an even thinner wire, but most people seem to prefer going to thicker wire like 28 and 26 awg. Is there any particular reason that many people using genesis atomizers seem to prefer really low resistance coils? Like, Rip Trippers says his sweet spot is like .7 ohms or something. I'm not sure I get why that's desirable since it's a lot easier to get higher voltage these days than it is to get really low voltage like I'd assume you'd need if the resistance of the atomizer was less than 1 ohm.
Most folks running really low voltage Genesis attys are also running them on mechanical mods with expensive high drain batteries. So fresh off the charger they are 4.2 volts, and drop from there.
A low ohm coil works really well, nice and warm, lots of vapor, more like actual smoking, but you need the ability to pull the amps. A 3.7volt battery with a .7 ohm atty is pulling roughly 19.5 watts and 5.2 amps.
So you wouldn't be able to do that with an eGo Twist or even a Lava Tube. Even a Provari wouldn't be able to handle that load. It would error out on you.
A low ohm coil works really well, nice and warm, lots of vapor, more like actual smoking, but you need the ability to pull the amps. A 3.7volt battery with a .7 ohm atty is pulling roughly 19.5 watts and 5.2 amps.
So you wouldn't be able to do that with an eGo Twist or even a Lava Tube. Even a Provari wouldn't be able to handle that load. It would error out on you.
That make sense. So as a guy with a lavatube, what kind of resistance/voltage would be a good spot? If this coil settles in at 1.6 ohms like it says now, am I going to want to stay in the mid 3 to low 4 volt range (the "safe" range), or will I end up wanting to push it higher to get closer to that wattage/amperage range? Of course, that the version I have has a 3.2amp limit so I won't be getting that high which I guess is why I was thinking I wanted to try to get a higher resistance coil. Does that make sense, or do I still have things backwards?
1.6 at 4 volts would give you a 2.5 amp load. You could run it up to around 5, provided your resistance doesn't drift up. Usually it seems to drop over time a bit whenever I check.
Really it is up to what you like as far as a warm or cool vape, or vapor quantity. I know there is a chart people post showing what the sweet spot is for cartos and attys, but I usually just use this to figure out if I'm going to screw something up-
Ohm's Law Calculator
I have that bookmarked so I can double check and not do anything boneheaded, which I still occasionally do anyway.
Really it is up to what you like as far as a warm or cool vape, or vapor quantity. I know there is a chart people post showing what the sweet spot is for cartos and attys, but I usually just use this to figure out if I'm going to screw something up-
Ohm's Law Calculator
I have that bookmarked so I can double check and not do anything boneheaded, which I still occasionally do anyway.
Fair enough. I'll definitely be playing around with it and seeing what I like, I was just concerned about popping the coil I finally got right so I was kind of going based on what that chart said.
Also, what's all this business about a break-in period for genesis atomizers. I've seen numerous people talk about breaking in, or seasoning, or priming a new wick/coil on a significantly lower voltage than they'd normally vape.
Im about to call it quits with this thing. My V1 Provari just errors constantly. I've made a dozen coils and none end up high enough resistance to not end up E2ing on me. The highest I can get with 32g kanthal is 1.6 ohm and that's if I'm lucky. Is there anything I can try to get the resistance up?
Check out this video. Make your wick, oxidize it, then take a cotton ball and wind a bit of the cotton up on the wick where you will put your coil. You could do this without oxidizing the wick even, but I've oxidized just to be sure of no shorts.
Escapereality, a "hotspot" on the coil is generally 1 of 2 things: a short or the coil/part of a coil is not close enough to the wick to stay wet.
keep in mind that the idea of "oxidizing" a wick is to create a non-conductive barrier or layer on the SS so the wick won't short on the coil or the tank body. This oxidized layer can be, to a degree, fragile.....meaning it can get scraped off by the smallest of motions and exposing the underlying conductive SS. Be gentle with a freshly oxidized wick. even the slight movement of the coil wire against the wick can disrupt that oxidized layer and a short can show up.
Then there is the issue of getting the coil nice and tight so all the coils will be in contact with juice at all times. The idea behind the cigarette paper is that you can wrap yer coil nice and tight with less fear of disturbing that oxidized layer and once it's been burned off then you have another carbon layer under the coil wires for more resistance from shorts. This cigarette paper(or toilet paper, tissue paper) method is a nice option but to me it still leaves you with a looming possibly problematic situation......it can still be scraped away pretty easily and still have shorting issues.
The only method I have found to give the best and easily repeatable performance is this:
Mesh/Cotton hybrid wick Bluegrasslover's method - YouTube
It is the only method I use now on all my SS wick atomizers and they work perfect every time. It allows you to tightly wrap the coil without fear of disturbing the oxidation layer and also aids in wicking and keeping the coil wet. Using this method on the DuD, I was able to have the DuD out of the box, wicked, coiled and vaping in a matter of minutes with no error, hot spots or shorts. I take that above method one step further tho and not only wrap the cotton where the coil will be but also where the wick will be going through the tank body to even further reduce the chance of shorts.
At the end of the day it primarily comes down to practice and getting good at it but that cotton thing sure makes it soooo much easier. I say give it a try, whatcha got to lose? a $.0000000002 cotton ball?
I'll try to get some step-by-step pics of how I do my wick and coil someday.
Have fun, see you on the other side......
The more wraps the higher resistance.
Edit:
Can't remember where I seen the post, but there was someone else having problems on the Provari and they were able to fix it. I'll take a look for it, and report back if I find it.
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Think I may have found something for you? I think that maybe your ohm aren't the problem?? Check you this post and then read on for a bit.
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