Can someone point me to a fix for dry tasting vape? On the xl 510 I opened yesterday the taste has become very dry, and I know someone has already found a cure for this.
E2 Cartomizer Technical Discussion
- Thread starter zoiDman
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
jjrose go watch my newest ptb video, it shows you what to do.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7oLicfK7_b0
you can mae your peaces smaller, you just want to get some stuff between the outside of the cup slits and the wall.
i cut my wicks off, you dont have to but my results with the wick cut off at the outside of the cup then pressed back into the slits works incredibly.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7oLicfK7_b0
you can mae your peaces smaller, you just want to get some stuff between the outside of the cup slits and the wall.
i cut my wicks off, you dont have to but my results with the wick cut off at the outside of the cup then pressed back into the slits works incredibly.
Last edited:
Thanks Bad! I pulled up the wick a little with a toothpick, and fluffed it up. It is working much better now.
Did I hear correctly, there is already another revision?
It seems that as soon as I get one revision another comes out.
Did I hear correctly, there is already another revision?
It seems that as soon as I get one revision another comes out.
Before you do anything drastic, try this first. With the threaded end of the XL pointed down, tap it several times on a table top. This may jar the wick loops closer to the bottom, if for some reason they are not down there already.
no jj its a joke, i strapped 4 mods together with e2's on them and called it the all new e4.
things where working so well last night that it got boring so you end up with sillyness.
BR and his simple soliutions, dont listen to him JJ and use a drill, jackhammer saw and plyers and get into that e2 and teach it a lesson. you can yell at the e2 as well to intimidate it a little.
things where working so well last night that it got boring so you end up with sillyness.
BR and his simple soliutions, dont listen to him JJ and use a drill, jackhammer saw and plyers and get into that e2 and teach it a lesson. you can yell at the e2 as well to intimidate it a little.
Last edited:
I'm so glad there aren't new revisions yet. I just got these yesterday, and hubby might get mad if I need to get more stuff.
I tried the jackhammer approach, but I just put a hole in the floor, so I went with a toothpick.
I'll pick up some ptb next trip to the store, but it seems to be working after the fluff.
Bad doesn't use those tools, JJ. He uses dinky little things like a Dremel to cut into a cartridge. I use things alike a hacksaw and bench grinder.
But if you want reliability, go back to using your earlier E2. After all, it's practically new and you were still breaking it in.
Bad wins, your shipment arrived to me while my order is at customs. Will be trying them out today. Thanks again Badkolo.
All the best,
Wing.
P.S. the postlady asked "Who is wing?" LOL
All the best,
Wing.
P.S. the postlady asked "Who is wing?" LOL
Last edited:
if you put a stethoscope up to the e2, you can here its little heart beating.
I wish I could still get the old e-2s That one is great. It keeps going, and going, and going.............
My wife is still using an older one because it is easier to fill. It has an early br mod. I told her she could do the same thing with her XLs, but she hasn't done it yet.
If the carto is new and it doesn't wick fast enough that you get a dry tatse. If the same thing happens to a older carto with "gunk" built up on the atomizer coil, you burn the gunk and you get the burnt taste.
It comes down to a lack of wicking. The PTB mod that Banjo did helps wicking. But you will find that any material, Blue Foam, Poly Fill, etc, will achive the same thing. What ever you add to help wicking just needs to be at the cup slots and not all the way around the cup. The material you add also helps prevent liquid juice from entering the cup area.
But why does one carto wick fine and another not wick well at all? Or in Br's case, why does one side of the carto wick but the other doesn't.
The cause is that the wick is a bundle of lose strands of e-glass. There realy isn't anything holding them together into a round bundle except the atomizer coils and a slight twist on the entire strand.
So sometime the strands lay flat at the edge of the cup instead of in a round bundle. Think of it as loose hair verses a Pony Tail. When the wick strands lay flat in the cup slot, two things happen. Wicking is decresed and the gap in the slot increases.
Fluffy up the strands or putting some type of material outside the cup slots cures this issue. Pulling out the wick and twirling it before replacing it does the same thing also. No filler material mod needed.
Of course if the wick was shaped into a braid or woven, it wouldn't want to lay flat in the cup slots. But we will have to see if this is something that RS / MiT addresses down the road. They seem to have a knee-jerk type design attitude and only consider one problem at a time.
Hope this helps.
You should be careful about what materials you add that close to the cup. These coils do get hot and some materials (i.e. blue foam) probably can't handle that heat very well.
zoid correct, thats why im still looking for the pic of the atomizer that someone posted a while back that uses the braided round wick, that design also has the wick cut off right at the cup.
thats what i did on my ptb mod zoid, cut the wick off at the slits, and yes you dont need to surround the whole cup just the slits, when doing this i get wicking that is perfect
thats what i did on my ptb mod zoid, cut the wick off at the slits, and yes you dont need to surround the whole cup just the slits, when doing this i get wicking that is perfect
I don't think that was the case with this particular one. The PTB wasn't dry because the slot area couldn't supply it. It was dry because the lower wick did not supply it.
ok found it, you see that wick in the pic is the wick thats needed for this type of system. i feel so at least.
ive been saying all along that stranded wick like used now is not ideal for the e2
ive been saying all along that stranded wick like used now is not ideal for the e2
Last edited:
I dont know navathian, I need to find a wick seller, someone had posted the website but i cant find it, i need to buy that wick.
then cutoff the wick we have now and place that new wick in the slits touching the coiled wick and down into the tank, so while we cant replace the whole wick we can upgrade it in a way.
quick not the filler around the cup in that pic, im talking about the wick in the coil in those pics, its a braided type of wick.
then cutoff the wick we have now and place that new wick in the slits touching the coiled wick and down into the tank, so while we cant replace the whole wick we can upgrade it in a way.
quick not the filler around the cup in that pic, im talking about the wick in the coil in those pics, its a braided type of wick.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
